Hey so I just replaced my throttle position sensor adjusted it to specs and it won't start now. It was it would start before but it ran like ass do you have any thoughts on this or suggestions?
Does it crank and want to start but just can't quite get there? Did you take the Throttle body off the vehicle to put the new TPS on? If so did you put a new gasket on between the TB and intake? Off hand, I'd say make sure all your vaccum hoses are back on tight and the mating surfaces between tb and intake are tight with no air leaks. Make sure plug to TPS is on securely. And make sure your throttle cable is back on where its supposed to be and not loose. Those are all things I've forgotten to do before when putting my TB back on.
Also maybe check your idle adjustment screw on throttle body. If its loose or has bad O ring and you accidently bumped it or something it could be either cutting off air if its in too tight or creating too much air flow if its out too far.
Honestly IDK. It's not a component of the emissions system. It's only function is to assist cold starts. In theory, deleting it in a cold climate could cause a rich condition at start up leading to ncreased HC and CO emissions. This is only theoretical bc if it was truly so cold out that you needed the auxiliary air to start the car, it would not run without you revving the engine to about 1000 rpms for the first few minutes and this slight opening of the throttle plate would eliminate any rich conditions. But even *if* there was one, it would only last until the engine reached operating temp then it would revert back to it's normal AFR. In warm weather the IACV doesn't allow air to bypass the throttle plate anyway so neither the IACV nor a delete there of will come into play in air temps >68° or so. So, long story short is that if you have to drive it at least 3 minutes to the emissions testing place your engine will be up to operating temp by the time you get there and the delete will have no effect on air/fuel ratios or emissions by that point - which it probably never did to begin with. However, I dont live in an emissions state so IDK what all they inspect for but I've heard that there are some regulations that say components have to be OEM. Does this mean that ALL OEM equipment that was installed by the vehicle manufacturer from the assembly line *MUST* be present? Or does it just mean that the components that are currently present must be OEM? IDK. Is there any place that gives a free 2nd try if you fail the first? If so I'd go there. If they fail you for deleting it, slap it back on and go again. It only takes about 5 minutes to put back on and doesn't require any calibration or resetting of anything. Just reconnect everything you disconnected and Bob's your uncle. Or maybe just call a place and ask if you will fail if you delete it? They *probably* won't hunt you down and shoot you in the leg or anything.
It idles high an I've done everything to make it stop. Timing is great. Cable is a lil loose an I've gone through all vacuum lines.wjen I step on the brake it'll want to studder an idle down. If I unplug the vacuum hose on the booster it'll idle down an run great. I check all the links an they are good. I step on the brake an it doesn't hiss or lose air feels great. Idk what I'm missing
@@robertfix-all9806 I'm not sure either. Im not a mechanic. I only know what I know because of problems I've personally experienced and the measures I've taken to investigate and solve them. Thankfully I've never had the very common brake booster/rough idle issue. Normally if you suspect a leak in the vaccum booster system pinching off the hose while the engine is idling and pressing the brake is the way to check. If the problem resolves with the hose pinched then that confirms you have a leak somewhere causing the issue. Since you removed your vaccum hose and the problem resolved I'd still lean toward the fact that you have a leak in that system somewhere. Check that little inline check valve. Its a white or yellowish piece of hard plastic in the vaccum line about half way between the booster and the plenum against the fire wall. You should be able to blow through one side but not suck air back through that same side. If that check valve is bad it may be causing an internal leak allowing air to go back to the intake and causing the rough idle but you may not be able to hear it very well since its contained in the system and not an external leak. Also is your brake fluid ok or have you been having to add to it? If you have a bad seal at the master cylinder/booster it could be leaking fluid into the booster and maybe damaging the diaphragm? Or obstructing the vaccum line to a degree? Thats the only thing I can add to what you've already explained. Im just not that familiar with the brake booster operation and system. But it def seems like it's got to be related to the brakes.
@@natalied989 Thank you so much! Ive already done an egr delete so all my top hoses too the throttle body are capped off, I'm trying too tuck my engine bay as much as possible so I'm getting a universal throttle body that doesn't have an iac connected too it, All it has is the TPS sensor location and the swivel the gas pedal line connects too, So In reality I'm trying too use your tutorial on how you blocked off the coolant lines that run too the throttle body and the iac, and figure out if I can just plug where the hoses come out of the block etc and do it that way.. Sorry if that's confusing it's hard too explain what I'm doing over a text
