If you increased the size of your magnets , which would increase the magnetic flux working on the serpentine coil, the mass would increase, which would allow for a bit of energy storage, giving you a smoothed relatively constant motion between gust of wind in a flywheel effect, Decreasing voltage fluctuations. Splendid Vlog as usual Rob.
Since the magnet "flywheel" will drive the worm gear in reverse, won't it be braked during a lull by the wind turbine impeller moving against the now-sluggish air? It seems to me a flywheel needs some sort of clutch/freewheel mechanism.
@@bokkeman123 Also, I would be concerned about the 90% reduction in torque when the generator has a load on it. Plugging something into this generator would cause a braking effect and slow down the rotor, wouldn't it?
That is really amazing! Very interesting thing is how it behaves when you stop adding more power. Just adding some weight to that magnet disc will make it a much better flywheel. Then add some separation between gears and a flywheel (ratcheting or other also discussed in previous episodes) and we have a perfect device for a wind turbine 😊
Separation between gears? If I’m correct, the tighter these gears (to a point) the less rubbing and friction forces there are, o think this would have to be oil bathed or Teflon coated gears and a clean box around them.
@@_..-.._..-.._ If i may be so bold and remind a formula for a friction: T=fN. Where T is our friction force, f is a coefficient of friction (depending on 2 materials - irrelevant) and N is a "normal force" - a force with which 2 bodies interact. So, according to a formula from primary school, the more you push something against something else, the bigger friction you will get... So i will have to say that "the tighter these gears are, the more rubbing and friction forces you will get" 🙂 Next thing is a tooth geometry, rubbing and so on, but this is just opening a mechanics book on gears and people wrote a ton of papers in that subject:)
That's really inspiring! 🤔 The extruded cam rides on the ridge only, leaving the trough free. If we adjust the shape it could be driven by water like an Archimedes screw in reverse using twisted cams, 2 would give you 24V Wish I had a tinker shop😂 Great videos, nice work 👏 thanks 😉
Ideally, it would use most of the contact area to prevent slippage, I’m thinking Teflon coated gears (they’re rotors actually) would help just like in positive displacement supercharger, which this design draws inspiration from. Or have loose ball bearings between the drive surfaces, or even fill the transmission case with loose ball bearings
I just docovered your channel. You seam like an amazing guy and I'm probably going to binge watch your videos 🙂 BTW you probably heard it many times, but I get a stron Anthony Hopkins vibe from you
3D printing is really incredible for geometries like this. You can produce parts with very little effort that would be otherwise impossible to machine. You can even print functional multi-part embedded machines that work right off the print plate.
Actually a 4 axis CNC milling machine where the fourth axis is rotational and a ball ended milling tool would make this type of gearing relatively easy to produce. such machines and tools are readily available (at fairly reasonable prices).
@@trevorgoddard2278 yeah, but I can 3D print self-assembled ball joints that work immediately. This or any other type of self-interlocking mechanisms, literally impossible to do with subtractive manufacturing.
@@Rhannmah , but... With real machining tools one can make things that work more reliably than as toys. Tips and tracks for the real world, horses meat courses (sic) at the dinner table.
@@trevorgoddard2278 Um, what is your idea of "reasonable"... I repaired, setup, and trained people on CNC Mill and Lathe in the South East USA for a while... and those machines weren't cheap. Ranged from 35K and up for just 3Axis and that was over a decade ago.
Robert. Mate, you never cease to amaze me. I’m wondering where the venture capitalists are. Your blood, as my dear old Dad used to say, is worth bottling.
What I like about this design is that your transmission gears won't break if your input is reversed for any reason. Your gear would simply and effortlessly reverse with no wear on the gear at all. You could also possibly use the same worm gear in tandem with another gear at the same time if you wanted and make it turn both gears, assuming your input is strong enough to turn both. One of the gears would turn the opposite direction, but that's none of these concerns (reversing or reversed extra gear) will be a problem for energy generation if the wires are connected to a full bridge rectifier, allowing constant and predictable output regardless of the direction the input turns. This concept could be used on any renewable power source that notoriously reverses direction, such as tidal or shoreline wave power where the ebb and flow of a wave can both be harnessed easily to generate power. Another perk to pinning this worm gear between 2 gears is that if there was any threat of the worm gear slipping from the main gear, it'll be drastically reduced if not eliminated completely by being pinned between two main gears.
Thank you. I gotta try that cool worm drive. I made a triple helical stator and noticed a large reduction in driving torque 👍. I'm going to use floating magnetic bearings to reduce more friction and this worm drive looks like a great addition. I wonder how hard it would be to print one 😁👍
He says where you can get the files. Or do you mean difficult for it to turn out well without defects? You could probably print the gears meshed together in an enclosed gear box.
Looks like, so long as you can keep it past its shift slip point, it should turn with relative ease. ~( 'w')/ Even though one may not see it as 'low friction' I see it as 'continuous impulse' which, in this case, sort of acts to reduce friction by always keeping some portion of the interface at the moment of peak mechanical advantage.
Nicely made. I sure will get myself a nice 3D printer soon enough. In the mean time i'll have to continue recycling old discarded junk like fishing reels to get my rpm up.
Would this drive in metal need to be a wet gearbox aka: “oil bathed” for friction reduction? Or could a hard forged wheel be driven by a brass oilite or powdered metal pinion?
Would wrapping the serpentine coil around the sides and bottom (like c-channel) increase the generation? I would imagine the angle of the wire would matter a lot more.
That’s awesome! 16 V is quite a lot for this arrangement, compared to what you’ve done before… but what if you could do a rotor that has magnets “inside” and “outside” the coil? Would that double the output?!?
A laminated iron core for the stator would tremendously increase efficiency, but then you couldn't 3D-print it - you'd need to laser-cut steel sheet and build it.
That's a cool idea! That made me realise that only half the magnetic field is utilised in the current design. If you were to change the rotor so that the magnets were arranged around a raised 'rim' so that you could have two stators - one outside, as it's shown now, and one inside. (imagine the rotor as a cylinder - the magnets centered in the cylinder wall and one stator located outside the cylinder and another stator inside the cylinder). That should double the output as well?
a worm gear can be reverse driven, but it takes a special set of circumstances for this to be true - if the coefficient of friction is less than the tangent of the lead angle, ie if you have a worm with a large tooth angle then it is possible with enough torque to back drive it, this is generally desirable if you are worm driving large and heavy components and dont want to have something break if the input stops suddenly, the friction and losses are enormous and brake the large heavy component quite quickly
i know my 96 to one worm gear plates for boat lifts aint gonna turn from the wheel aint no way in smuckers marmaduke even if you helped it edit ok i saw someone say around 5 to 1 is about the most, seem legit
This is very interesting, making a silicone mold so a wax copy can be made, for a lost wax casting from aluminum, using a old cast car rim, should hold up fine for a wind turbine, especially id pkaced inside a case, with a bit of tacky lubrication, a bit of lucas oil stabilizer, mixed with automatic transmission fluid, About 10% Lucas to 90% ATF, should make a thin oil that sticks to the gear leaving a film. For excellent lubrication. It will work well for tge bearings also, just leave a scroll pattern on the gear, to pull lube up to the axel, using a hollow axel, with a hole leading to bearing, it can be self lubricating. The oil running off the large gear, running into the axel, then to the next bearing, running out the axel, into the bearing, possibly have a scroll wheel just to pick up oil, and feed tge axel. Use a coil of about 3mm copper tubing, soldered to a copper disc. Feeding a roughly 1-3mm i.d. of the tube. With a 1mm hole to lube the bearings , with this system straight ATF can be used, no lucas added, the system would basically have a pump oiling the gears and bearings.. Im going a bit off an a tangent here. However, i have had the idea for a hybrid manual transmission, using a pump like a automatic, and clutches like an automatic or motorcycle, still using gears, only use the clutches to engage the gears, the shift lever only opens a hydraulic valve engaging the clutch, without pressure, they automatically disengage. With no friction, using a spring to separate the clutches, More like a motorcycle clutch i guess, having 6-8 packs per transmission, plus a normal clutch, that could be replaced by a valve, that slowly engaged the clutches, a normal 4speed transmission would be long, or possibly large, about the same as a automatic transmission. It could be setup to wirk automatically, uts like replacing the syncronesh with a clutch pack, about 8 3.5"-4" clutch disc and steels, maybe a smaller diameter for reverse, with less disc, being Reverse doesn't require holding lots of power, using a hydraulic coupling in place of a clutch, making it more like a automatic. Keeping all the gears from creating drag on the main shafts nearly eliminating the losseshaving one clutch connecting tge input shaft to the output shaft. Should not requiremire than a few hp to drive , normal losses are 25j+ hp or better at full power, this system should be 2-5hp, usjng a carbon ceramic on titanium with slotted steels1.5mm thick with .5 mm slots tge ceramic material having carbin fiber reinforcing it, basically a carbon composite, using a ceramic material with carbon inside, like porcelain with carbon using carbon fiber to reinforce, using powdered graphine to make a light weiggt ceramic making the clutch new, about 2.5-3.2mm thick the 2.5mm steels. Possibly baking the mose efficient transmission. Us live to build a eorking example, with a single pneumatic actuated clutch on each gear, having reverse, and 2 forward gears. And a electric motor, with most of the parts 3D printed, probably usung a sheet metal disc with a piece of paper from a brown paper bag . As the friction material. With another 20 gauge sheet metal for the clutch, and 3mm plastic fir the pressure discs, with a wavy flat wire spring, to spread the pressure disc off the clutch. Use a 3D printed standat clutch with paper as the friction material and simple pressure plate, and a dimple printed air compressor, and hollow cylinders to prove it works, using a electric motor, for spinning the gears. A car company could use the same transmission, only configured different to be manual or automatic, or possibly a option to be both. It could save money, save fuel , and be fun to drive,
if you make not only the inner part rotate, but also the outer part in the opposite direction, you get much more performance without forcing the parts made by the 3d printer too much, because it would share the stress on the whole machine.
Seeing these videos always gives me inspiration to think up various designs to push these sorts of designs further, but i don't ever manage to try to design things properly. I could go online and find software to help me i'm sure, but never set aside the time properly. One thing tends to leave me wondering in the meantime though: You show the Voltage of these sorts of designs, but not usually any amperage to work out the Wattage. For this design, what IS the amperage? Could this alone charge a phone over a day? If it were even on with no data transfer, would it lose charge overall - just with the hand crank?
10x RPM not 10x speed. Since the magnet disc is larger there is another factor of magnification in speed that the magnets pass the coil based on the ratio of the diameters between the magnet disc and the driven gear. If the size of the magnet disc was increased with no other changes the speed of the magnets motion would increase too.
@@vincentv6009 e=BLVx10^-8, where e = volts, B=magnetic flux lines/cm^2 (gauss) and V=velocity between conductor and magnet. V=𝝅D x RPM/60, where D = diameter, to give a velocity/second So if his is D=10cm and you want to go to 1m (100cm) as D is the only factor that changes everything else cancels out so it's D2/D1 = 100cm/10cm = 10x the original voltage theoretically. There will be some losses so you won't achieve that quite but it would be close. This is for 1 magnet passing 1 section of coil and for total energy output you would need to factor in having more sections of coil and more magnets as well.
@@vincentv6009 the other thing to start considering at 1m diameter is how fast that wheel is going to be spinning (the outside of the wheel), and the kinds of forces involved there vs the material of the wheel. i.e. a dremel might spin a 1cm disc at 30K rpm, but a 1m disc at 30K rpm would disintegrate, if it were made from steel. with 3d filament, it'll fall apart a lot faster. if a 1m wheel was spinning at 1000 rpm, the outer edge would be travelling at around 20 meters per second. so if you're turning the crank at 100rpm, you get to 1000rpm on the wheel because of the gears, and now you have a wheel edge going over 40mph. just something to consider. ;-)
Oooh now I'm thinking if it'd be possible to use the quieter eccentric cycloidal gears in your stackable planetary gearbox , such as in your 1964 video A DIY Wind Turbine Gearbox.
this would make a good bicycle powered power source, if you could turn the rear wheel into a flywheel and get it up to speed, and have that keeping the generator going, or some form of exercise gear that is modified cause it to spin a flywheel.
hey question, what size bar are you using for the Coggs because they're not 8 mm but the bearings size are so are you drilling them out to eight mill and using an eight mil bar or are using a smaller bar in the bearing if possible can you tweak the STL files to have an 8 mm hole in all of the gears?
I have a question that might help you! Have you considered an infinite variable gear setup at the initial point of the blades so that even a tiny breaze can keep the unit turning? Cheers.
4:06 Use two mirrors. The first will flip the image backwards, the second will flip it forwards again so you can read it. You can even put them off camera so we don't see them.
We are getting very close now , we’ll actually you are getting very close to a system for green house heating, chimney heating and dare I say it a system to feed off my efforts when I do cycling on my indoor trainer, all obviously liked to small batteries or a series of batteries that will generate heat = wow looking forward to be warm this winter = wow plus two more wow’s.
@@grendel1960a Agreed but seems all that effort couldn’t be captured to a battery so it could be used while not on the trainer, 65 now so do about an hour a day,
@@scfcrob progress in regards to what ? My thoughts ? I’ve always thought differently , as an example they have these big power wall batteries for solar , why not have small batteries that could be powered by cycle trainer once charged fit back in to pack made up of individual units, why have a solar panel on the roof so it could not only capture the sun rays but could also capture the vibration of the rain hitting the panel = easy to put discs within the unit , Tesla now have solar tiles, why not have solar shutters on south facing windows and the wires go directly into the room charging a small battery within a heater , warm in winter cool if we get a summer, many have oil for their heating , why aren’t we having sand batteries , the list is endless , the temperature in the ground is a constant heat , dig a hole in your garden. Line the hole with aluminium fill it with sand , a mine wind turbine and I mean mini blow warm air into the house when needed , lots of things that could be done for people living in flats with balconies, as said list is endless.
Dear there r not much scientific temperament youtubers to breed problem solver generation. Thanks for ur efforts. Issue with u is u dont go and present in details. Pl be slow and explain the stuff in details. For example in this presentation. U cld explain how magic gears r different. And i saw coil type is different. Like zigzag instead of coils.
