This is an excellent video which helped me repair my 1992 Toyota Camry no start condition. Before the fix, I would have to pull the shift lever towards L but keep it in P to start the car. One day, this didn't work and I spent 10 minutes trying to get the car started, holding down the brake pedal and wiggling the shifter between P and R. If it gets to this situation, definitely look into repairing as soon as possible because you can become stranded easily. Repair took me a couple hours because I like being meticulous with cleaning and applying dielectric grease as shown in the video and inside the connector. Seems like this is a common issue due to the location of the neutral safety switch as leaking engine oil can get inside the housing and degrade the grease inside faster. The black gunk you see when opening the unit is the years of shifter movement compacting grease and old engine oil into the ends. This combination in mine got so bad that it had become a hard, clay-like substance. Many thanks for the video.
Thank you, Dan. Your video saved me $110 from the “A-Zone” replacement one. It took a little more effort to get the unit but once out, I followed your cleaning method & put it back together. No more non starting issues now. Thanks again.
Just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video - very instructive and very well done! I had the no start problem and was about to try changing the starter when I came across this video. My 1994 Camry with 160,000 miles had a neutral safety switch with slightly less gunk inside than yours, but I followed your instructions for rebuilding and the car starts flawlessly now!!! Thank you again for your help!
Hello, My backup lights were not working and I had some trouble starting (had to wiggle the "P" transmission lever. SO I decided my 1992 Camry NSS should be rebuilt. Here's what I learned: only remove the bolt on the lever on the NSS. I had removed both that and the cable's. If you take the cable end off, be sure to mark it's position relative to the slotted arm. Thank you for the "see how" instructions. Was a good repair lesson.
You have a good day, too! I couldn't have asked for a more timely and helpful demo about this switch. After I replace a motor mount next weekend, I'm going to do this service. The backup lights on my car are the only thing, that doesn't work. I know this will fix them on my '93 Corolla wagon. Thank you, Mike from Fernwood, BC, CAN
Wow!! This is by far the best video I've found on how to fix the same problem on my 94 Camry. Backup lights don't work and there are times that the car won't start at all until you wiggle or put the gear into neutral (that's the only gear that the light comes on the dash consistantly). I will be trying this method soon. This will save me $300 (CAD) on the part itself! I have a very reliable mechanic who said it will cost me over $400 for him to replace it (parts included). Thank you so much for making this videoo! Very clear and concise.
Unbelievably helpful!!!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to make and share this. I was so frustrated with a no start problem and after checking battery/fuses/relay etc this was my last resort and it worked like a charm! Thanks again, it's such a great sense of accomplishment when you can fix things yourself without spending money at the garage or on parts! God bless
Ur the man Dan.. i was having to wiggle the shifter on my 93 camry to start my car. i cleaned it up like u demonstrated, and now even my reverse lites work
...dittos to all of the previous acalades, Dan! Your video is still shedding light on a very illusive problem. I haven' tried it yet, but the logic tells me that this is the only solution that explains all of the symptoms present in my daughter's '94 Camry... job well done!!!
91 corolla with no reverse lights. I removed the grey electrical connector (after A LOT of wiggling) and that is where I found my problem. One of the pins was just a blob of corrosion. No electrical contact left in that spot on either the switch or the connector... So I will be keeping my eye out for both at the pick and pull so I can get everything replaced. Not looking forward to soldering wires in such a confined space, but at least the only symptom is no reverse lights so I can live with that for now. Thanks for the video Dan!
We have a '95 Camry 4-cyl auto. trans. with intermittent backup lights failure. I've checked the wiring, fuses and bulbs in the past and they're all fine, so narrowed the likely source to the switch. This looks like the way ours is set up, so, avanti! when it warms up in a couple of days. Many thanks in advance for this--I could locate the switch based on other sources, but couldn't quite figure out how to get at it. This gives me confidence.
@@dandeshaney5559 Got partway there last Sat. but had to re-assemble the car after one hour for wife to go out. Will try again next weekend. Question: I tried to disconnect the gray electrical plug from the switch but it wouldn't budge--are there tabs or something that need to be pressed to release it?
Thank you dan this is exactly what I needed to know I replace my starter and wasted money on it not knowing it was this I also took of my alarm thinking it was that but nothing a friend told me to look up the neutral safety switch n voila I found u Dan Ty so much my 93 is back on the road😁
Thank you for your video on the switch, I just did the same project on my 1996 toyota celica the engine light was on because of the switch. Thanks again and God Bless
Great Video! You were very thorough! Your video was perfect to show my boy how to fix his car. Thank you for all the time it took you to put this together. Because we both know you could have just fixed your car and went on your merry way! But choose to share your experience and knowledge! once again Thank you Dean and Michael
good video. I am having the same problem on my 1994 Camry. I changed the bulbs,cleaned the connection and nothing..so I'm going to try this because when I engage into reverse, the lights come in but only for a fraction of a second..so hopefully this is the problem,. thanks for posting this video.
This was very helpful, used this video to help me swap out a new switch in my 88 camry, and starts and has reverse lights now, old switch was as bad as yours.
Thanks Dan! I'm thinking this is the problem with my 1998 Camry. Will get at it this week. You saved my some time and $$ by posting this. I appreciate it!
You're welcome Scott. I word of advice. Some folks have complained about the switch not sliding off the shaft once all of the nuts & bolts were removed. Sometimes there is a rust or grease buildup on the part of the shaft that is sticking out and the switch sticks on it. Some people have tried prying on it to break it loose and have wound up breaking the internal bake-lite part inside the switch. I would advise against forceful prying. I used a small paintbrush soaked with carburetor cleaner to dab it and brush away the rust and grease. After I cleaned it real well, it came loose. Good luck. Dan
Thanks Dan - you're a champion!! I had no problems fixing the reversing lights ('back-up' lights over there, you say?) on the 1995 Camry auto thanks to your clip and the comments here. Having eliminated the other likely suspects (fuse, broken wire near the boot hinge - ok -' trunk' hinge!!) I thought I'd have a crack at the switch after you convinced me it wouldn't be too difficult. I didn't find it necessary to remove the battery pan on the 1995 model - pretty good access with battery in place. I did strike some resistance once all the bolts etc were removed but didn't get too excited having read the comments here. Sprayed some lubricant (WD40) behind the gasket (under the washer under the 7/8 inch nut) and then waited a bit. Time and pressure (like Shawshank) and off it came (about the time I was considering using additional assistance other than finger pressure). When I opened the switch it was easy to see the problem - the gunk had caused the outer contact to stick in (ie. not spring out and making contact). I now have reverse lights (ok 'backup' lights) - the last job finally done before the road worthy inspection!!!
Oh Dan.. I hope you out live your neutral switch part project. That black thing next to the battery your wondering what it was is the Cruise control. Other than that you made a very well tutorial video. I really hope you live long.
Thanks, Dan, for a very informative and inspiring video. Everything went according to plan until I couldn't budge the NSS off the shaft. Wouldn't move with a 3 foot crow bar on the large nut. Wound up prying the NSS from the back of it and obliterating all of it except the bottom of the contact arm. Put penetrating oil on the thing and pried it off with the crow bar. What's weird is the shaft was pristine with no rust, and I had to use four stepped up drill bits to widen the slot on the new NSS to get it on! Does Toyota use growing metal for the shaft?!
Thank you for making this DIY. My parent's 2003 Toyota Sienna was experiencing difficulties shifting and starting, especially now in Phoenix when its 115 degrees outside, so I'm going to do this job right now so they've got a dependable car to get around in.
Trying to get my dash indicator lights working (lit) when putting it in whatever gear I choose. Wonder if this switch also controls that. Have no trouble with starting or anything. Just took dash speedo and tach assembly and checked all lights, all good. I can make the individual light illuminate when I move the shift lever down or up a bit in whatever gear I'm in. Thought there must be a selector switch in the shift console but now not so sure. Anyway, great video and thanks. I'm sure I need to do this also. Update Yes, this also controls the gear selector lights in the speedo-tach assembly. After pulling center console cover off and disconnected shift cable moved shift lever back and forth and nothing, then pushing and pulling shift cable made dash gear lights work off and on. Update 2, confirmed, this also controls dash gear selector indicator lights.
Good work super Dave! Be really careful pulling that switch off of the shaft. Don't pry or use force or you might shatter the Bakelite material inside. Good luck!
This is very well explained! I wonder whether the problem for my Toyota corolla '98 is from the neutral safety switch though. this is because the push button on the shift lever seems to get stuck or not work properly to release the switch.
Thanks for sharing. I just figured out how to remove my switch and now thanks to you I know how to clean it. I noticed you lubed the interior it with axle grease. I will probably use dielectric (silicone based) grease instead. It seems to me it might be safer if it contacts that rubber seal rather than a petroleum based grease. What do you think?
You're welcome. You are probably right to use the silicone based grease, but at the time all I had was axle grease. I didn't use a lot of it, so I doubt it will be an issue. As long as there is some type of lubricant inside so it doesn't cause excessive wear to the inside of that switch it should be ok.
Thank you Dan for taking the time to post this excellent video. Your detailed explanation was just what I needed to fix my 1995 Camry. Again thanks for posting!
Thanks for posting this video! Great job! Lot's of useful info! However, I've had 2 different people break 2 of these in the exact same spot trying to remove them. Both people said It feels like there is still something hanging on that's not letting it come loose. Does it need to be in a certain gear? Thank You!
Hi Toni... I had the gearshift in the neutral position with the shaft straight up and down, but the position shouldn't matter. The only thing keeping that switch from sliding off of that shaft smoothy would be a dirty shaft. It should be soaked with carburetor cleaner and cleaned well before attempting to slide that switch off. Hope that helps... Dan
After you remove the 2 10mm bolts and remove the crossbar tying the cable to the transmission shaft, the only thing holding it on is that giant nut and lock washer. I was at the junkyard and couldn't wiggle it free. I used a flat blade screw driver and wedged it between the transmission and neutral safety switch and used the leverage to push it off. I didn't think it was going to work, but if you work it from a couple different angles it should loosen it up. I can't wait to clean it out and get working reverse lights.
Thanks or the video . I own a 93 Camry. incidentally I had to raise front of car to remove stuck rotors and I turned key to acc. then put in neutral, then turned key to off , turn key back to acc. put car in park but wheels still spin as if in neutral. so I start car and wheels do not spin so it is in neutral, I think ? any thoughts before I put it in gear?
I have a 95 Camry. The Park, Neutral and Drive lights won't light up on my instrument cluster. They are designated P, N and D. If I shack my automatic transmission shifter sideways though, they will light up. That means the bulbs are good. Do you think my neutral safety switch is the problem?
How do your know the starter is not engaging, what are the symptoms? Mine sometimes makes a really loins grinding blender type noise I don't know if I have a flexplate problem or not
Dan S, im not sure how to do this to retrieve comments? first im the one with the 94 camry it just died and wont start it gets gas/ fires to the coil & plugs turns over but dont start do you have any suggestions? Oh i just clean nss after watching your video thanks. and now have backup lights but did not help to start it.
Have a 94 camry that doesnt show the "D" light on the dash, takes a little longer to shift gear in Drive, and the selector wont go in the " L" gear. Could that be the problem?
thank you for the video sir I have a 1996 Toyota Camry won't start on Park unless I put it in neutral do you think they switch can be the cause or is there something else that I should look at thank you for your help
Try holding the key in the START position, and while keeping your thumb off the release button so you don't accidentally shift to a different position, try wiggling the gearshift forward and backward and see if the starter tries to engage. Do your backup lights work normal when you put the car in reverse, or do you have to get the gearshift in just the right spot to make them come on? If any of these apply, odds are, its a dirty switch. Good luck, Dan
back up lights work fine, it stop doing it for a month now it did it again today,, I did press the unlock button at the shifter before I shifter to Drive and nothing, I think whats not catching its the lock button on the gears because with the switch on and my foot on the brake I move the shifter to N than back to P and I hear a click like it finally see its in Park than turn the car ON and works, I will let you know how it goes
The Neutral Safety Switch performs multiple functions. !: It causes the gear indicator lights to come on when the stick is in the correct position. 2: It causes the backup light to come on in the R position. 3: It enables the starter to engage when you start the car in either PARK or NEUTRAL. The backup light is controlled from within the NSS switch by shorting the 2nd set of contacts from the left together on the top 2 bars. If you go here to the 8:00 minute mark in the video and pause it, you can see the shiny bus bars. There are 4 rows top to bottom. if you just look at the top 2 bars from left to right, you can see the positions that short together to turn on the gearshift indicator lights. Far left = P (Park) Next one to the right is R (Reverse and the backup lights) Next one to the right is N (Neutral) Next one to the right is D (Drive) Next one to the right is D2 (Drive 2) Next one to the right is L (Low) The two bottom bars enable the starter, only in the PARK and NEUTRAL positions. Hope that made sense. Good luck.
How much work did it take to actually remove the switch from the transmission case? I have the shifter arm removed, the large nut on the front of the unit removed, the mounting bolts removed but the thing will not slide off the shaft. Have I missed something? Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Vincent. After removing the large nut, I had to use carburetor cleaner on the shaft itself. It had a lot of dirt and corrosion on it and the switch would not slide cleanly over it. Clean it real good and work that switch back and fourth, and in and out a little at a time. You may even need to slip a screwdriver behind it to pop it loose. It will come off if you clean that shaft. Good luck...
Thanks for responding. Well - there's good news... and there's bad news. The good news is that I was able to eventually get the switch removed from the shaft. The bad news is that once I had the switch free of the transmission housing - I was able to turn it (the switch) over and take a look at the back side of the thing and notices some hair line cracks in the casing. In the process of removing the six screws - the bakelite casing literally crumbled in my hands. I'm having a replacement part sent to me and it should be here by Thursday. Thanks for the tip about the carb cleaner. I'll use that on the shaft when installing the new part after it gets here.
Dan Deshaney Awesome Video dan!!! Appreciate it. I have worked on all kinds of cars but you can never stop learning! It worked great ! Take care and God bless!
Hi Ronnie. Sorry you're having problems. My car starter would not engage unless I wiggled the gear shift. Also the backup lights would not work when I put it in reverse. This is a completely different issue than you are having. Your problem could be many things. So much so you might have a mechanic look at it for you. Sorry I couldn't help more than that. Good luck.
I'm going to guess you will have a problem finding a mechanic that's willing to clean it. Most professional mechanics will try to sell you a new one. If you have a friend, or find someone that's willing to watch my video and do the repair for you, it should take about an hour to an hour and a half... Make sure they clean the shaft thoroughly and don't try to pry it off. They have bake-lite material inside and will shatter like glass if you pry on them. Good luck, and best wishes, Dan
Easier said than done. I've tried to remove at least 6 NNS's from junk yard Camry's with no success. Each on I tried was frozen solid on the shaft. I have spent as much as 2 hours on one of these. I managed to get one off the shaft but had to break it doing so. Gave up. May need a puller, not sure. Car still starts with jiggling of the shifter but it can be a real pain in the ass.
I don't know what to say about all of the problems you're having. There's nothing complicated or tricky about getting it off. It's a straight smooth shaft all the way through. The only problem is that the part of the shaft that you can see sticking out will most likely be corroded or rusty. The switch fits on really snug, so any kind of buildup on the visible part of the shaft will make it stick. All I had at the time was a spray can of carburetor cleaner/de-greaser that I sprayed heavily on the shaft and let it soak in for about 15 minutes, and then wiped it as clean as possible with a rag. I wiggled it around by hand a bit and it came loose enough to where I was able to slide it off. Of course it was tight, but I managed without damaging it. Something else to consider using might be some emery cloth, or steel wool to polish that shaft. You might also consider slipping a thin tapered plastic trim wedge behind it and tapping it under until it pops loose. Good luck, Dan
Since Toyota wants $503.00 and the local parts house wants $235.00 for the NSS this is a great video This also works on the 2000 Toyota Avalon V6 but it is harder to get to the way the repair manual suggests, it might be easier to get to the switch by removing the battery and battery box.
I have the 6 cylinder . I just removed the one radiator cooling fan and I was able to get to it .It was a bit of trouble and I NEVER would have been able to get it out without removing that fan. But ,Now ,the 6 screws holding the switch together are now Brass and installed with locktite ..meaning impossible to remove without ruining the screws . You could go out and buy new screws ,and install with locktite ,once the cleaning is done . The cost of the switch is crazy high at auto parts stores
Some people need to spray some degreaser on to the shaft. Mine was stuck on too and did not come off easily, but after I sprayed it and brushed it clean, it loosened up and came off. Clean the whole shaft thoroughly so it slides off easy. Be careful prying hard on it with a screwdriver. Some people mention that they had broke theirs by prying too hard. You might try just wedging the tip of a screwdriver up between the switch and the transmission. That is what popped mine loose. It was simply stuck on the shaft. Hope that helped...
My only problem was the screws started stripping so I drilled the heads off, if you do this you will need a squirt bottle with water in it as to not melt the flat washers in the plastic
If you look at this picture at the 2:05 point, you can see how that tab works. The arrow is pointing straight at the little square hole and peg. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XCvwj8u602I.html It's like a little rocker, or see-saw. The whole top of the tab is grooved so you can grip it. When you grip it and squeeze inward, it rocks inward under your thumb, and lifts up the bottom half of the tab so it can come off over that square peg inside the square hole of the tab. That square hole in the tab over the top of the square peg is what keeps the electrical connector from slipping off. If the top thumb tab is what broke off, then just take the tip if a pocket knife, of something thin, and simply slip it under the bottom part of the tab and gently pry it upward so it will clear the square peg, and then lift the connector off of the plug. Hope that helped, Dan
Don't try this with a newer Toyota ..they got "smart" and now use locktite on brass screws (the six that hold the switch together) impossible to get off without ruining them.You could try drilling them out and finding replacement screws .I just gave up and bought a new one ...Toyota beat me
