1989-2005 40/48/50 Seal Kit: ebay.to/2lMjL2D Or Amazon: amzn.to/2AcpmU2 Socket: ebay.to/2kbBeRB End Cap Tool: ebay.to/2kEBrwX Or: ebay.to/2mctteY Weird Pliers: ebay.to/2lLlepU
Just completed the same job down here in South africa, pins would not come out at all so all i did was release the lock screw and lifted the motor all the way up and supported it in place. Gave the gland nut a few gentle taps with the hammer to free up the corrosion. Loosened the gland nut and lifted the motor all the way over and the whole shaft popped out. Easiest way in my book to get to the seals. Loosened off the nut and then held the shaft parallel to the ground and slowly slid the first piston off. CAREFUL, have a large plastic container under as the springs and steel balls can easily be lost here. Slide off the gland nut and hook out the seal and replace with a new one. Johnson parts are very hard to get here so I went over to my Hydraulic man and we matched the size perfectly. Put it all back together again, bled the oil and up and down the motor went, no fuss. 2 hour job tops. Don't fuss with the pins if you don't have to. :)
The trim on my 2000 50hp Johnson stoped working. Without your video I wouldn’t have had a chance. Now I’m back on the water ! It’s amazing to watch an experienced mechanic. Thanks for sharing!
I can't thank you enough for doing these videos. I have a 92 Johnson and have followed your videos on multiple occasions to successfully complete a project I wouldn't normally attempt. You've probably saved me a thousand dollars in labor costs not to mention improving my repair skills, knowledge and confidence.
Hey just wanted to thank you for this video - I've just rebuilt my trim & tilt unit using your video as a guide.. I'm in Sydney Australia where the parts are astronomically high but I saved a bucket load doing it myself, so thanks so much. Must say without a doubt getting the unit off the motor was the most challenging experience I've had - hours upon hours trying to get out the top and bottom pins - All done and I'm pretty proud of myself.. Thanks again.
I've never fooled with anything hydraulic and watching your video and going step by step as you went, pausing the video, hitting resume....it was a piece of cake. I appreciate you making this video and making it easy to follow along step by step! 😊
I pulled the water pump out of my 48SPl this morning and my tilt wouldn't raise the motor without some help. It has been a long while since I even had a chance to use it. Looks like I'll be using this video to repair my hydralics. Thanks for sharing it.
nice timing, I just rebuilt the power trim on my 2000 50hp johnson. Its looks very similar except the manual release is facing the outboard, not the side. Good news is that mine now works perfectly.
Its always nice to see something work after you've fixed and installed it! Lol Well done, thanks for your very professional video, its very helpful for my tilt, trim experience.
Just picked up a little whaler with the same motor and unfortunately very similar problems you are now in my saved to watch later system. So thanks. I am curious where you found that right angled pick with the aluminium body and magnetic in the handle. Very nice.
I paid $50 for my seal kit on Ebay. Too much! I'm a retired aircraft mechanic and what we used to remove and install orings and seals was home made tools made of brass brazing wire. We would flatten one end, make a spoon shaped end so as not to tear or nick a packing. Good idea hear.
Hi Brandon. Enjoy your videos. I have a question on the tilt trim actuator. The details on the piston assembly are not clear. I know the assembly has springs and pins, but I guess the one I acquired is missing a pin. However, the few pictures I can find on the internet only show 5 pins and 6 springs. Am I missing something? My actuator has no strength. It will extend without a load but I can push it down with a little effort. If you have a video on this or could help, that would be great. Keep up the good work!!
We need a video on causes of fluid leaks and what over pressure valves do. I'm doing mine for the 3rd time now because in the down mode fluid leaks out the rod seal and down the unit. Guys need to know what may cause that with a newly rebuilt unit. Our half ass rebuilt unit. Those check values get very dirty and fail to open or close. Filter needs cleaned too. Total disassembly is required and a through cleaning of every single part. They may contain contaminants you cant see.
Hi Brandon, Wow in comparison to my 96 merc 60hp tilt trim yours looked like a pain. Although I like the lower pin setup better than mine that I gave up on trying to remove. I was afraid I was going to break parts. You will see on my video that my goal was just to replace the cylinder Orings anyway. I got my Orings from a locale hydraulic shop. Orings sizes are generic for hydraulics. I just took my old ones with me and the shop matched them up for me. They just gave them to me for free. If the motor Orings start leaking someday I'll have to deal with getting that lower pin out. Oh my pressure relief valve is plastic, tapered with 3 orings. To remove it has a c clip too but sure it will be cake to remove
hello Brandon would you have the reference of the tool to remove the axis which passes in the head of the cylinder which retains the motor that is to say the puller with inertia because my axis is blocked it must be seized I am French and I can not find this tool in France thank you have a good day cordially
great video Brandon!! The 90 hp Evinrude trim works. The only problem is it won't trim up when needed going across the lake. Stopped in the water works. give it throttle it drop down. fluid full. could it be the up check vavle or the down check valve?
First off Thanks for the videos ❤ Since I had to replace the tilt/trim Motor on my 1992 50hp Johnston I figured I’d reseal it (I was not able to to remove the 2 plugs #16’s on either side of the piston housing) with out destroying them so I left them I added the fluid like you did I Powered it up and it worked fine up and down up and down 😅 ***Except for air and fluid leaking out of the top of the piston arm at the wiper or scrapper ring? It was difficult to remove the cap off the end of the piston arm like it was hitting a lip or something and then Difficult again putting the end cap back on. During assembly I was able to insert the 2 new rings inside the cap and the scrapper ring without much trouble. I’m thinking it’s either over filled?or I damaged a ring pushing it on the piston? Any ideas🤔 ✌🏼❤️🔥
Let me ask you this and see what you think. I watched your video and I only resealed the piston and the top cap as fluid was just running out’ve the top cap seal. My t/t might be alittle newer than yours as it has the fill hole on the from and release valve on the side. Other than that it’s the exact same. I just can’t get the damn thing to bleed. I can help it up so far til it builds pressure but won’t hold up and just falls back down. I did also change the o ring on the release valve since it was easy to get to. At one point it would go up about 1/2in and stop and a minute later the same thing. But now it won’t go up or hold what so ever.
Yeah, I've tried that too (replacing only the cap) and expirenced the same situation you're describing. Probably gotta pop put the large flat-head plugs and replace those o-rings.
if it has power trim and tilt, yes. Ive hit lots of things, and its never popped up. I think it has to be a pretty significant hit. otherwise, it depends on the year/hp
Thank you for this video. I am about to rebuild my 2000 model Johnson 50 and I know the trim unit looks slightly different. Should it be pretty much the same process as the one you have here?
Thank you for the video Brandon. I have a 94 and getting ready to do the same thing. Could you explain the removal of the threaded top cylinder shaft a little? I noticed you used a screw (10/25?) and it spun right out? I have mine soaking with blaster and seals arrive tomorrow. Thank you! Subscribed!
excellent instructional video. I have the exact same model and replaced the seals. The hydraulic cylinder will extend/retract with no load, but it will not lift the motor now. What did I do wrong?
Brandon thanks for the helpful videos!! I have a 1993 40hp Johnson Tracker 40hp with the lift assist Ram. Is it possible to upgrade to the hydraulic trim?
On the tilton trim where the piston slides up and down and you have the springs those rods are they all supposed to be the same because I have one that looks like it's wooden and it's flipped upside down I've never seen anything like it so I'm trying to figure out is that supposed to be there Is there supposed to be one odd rod with the five springs or six springs but this makes sense please respond quickly I'm in the process of re sealing mine right now in the video doesn't show you removing one of the rods this rod is not even a quarter inch line But it is golden and color. I noticed it sticking out the top away from the springs.
Haven't seen you clean any parts. They must be dirt and dust free. No mention of what type of cleaning fluid or shop towels. Must be lent free also. Micro fiber is best.
I rebuilt my T and T on a 2000 Johnson 50hp. worked great for awhile but now won't stay in the up position and always wants to drift back down. Is it my UP check valve or Down check that's gone kaput?
Hello! excellent video! query: I have a new mercury 60 hp. The power trim goes up and down, the problem I have is that if it goes up to the end of the stroke then it doesn't go down. What could it be?
I have a new to me engine with the same hydrolics. My trim won’t go up and the relief valve only turns about a quarter turn counter clockwise. Anyway to get the motor up so I can change the seals? It seems locked in the down position.
Seems like a very useful video. I have a question maybe you can answer. My trim stopped working but motor still makes noise and i had just replaced the motor a year ago. I dont see any visible leaks. Should I reseal the whole thing or try a new motor yet again? It acts like it wants to move but wont.
Will these tilt trim motors bleed air out of the top of the cylinder cap or is that a sign that I may have damaged the cap piston seals? I dont see any visual signs of damage to the piston at all but just wandering if this could be a sign of something wrong with it too. Great video btw very helpful. Thanks!
I have the same motor and would like to swap out my lift assist valve for a tilt/trim setup. Do you have anything you would be willing to sell? I would appreciate it! Thanks!!
Thanks for the info, but I'm a little confused on the spanner wrench Where you used aluminum tape to get the part off to get to the end cap was that 2 or 3 holes your in? Thanks and great video
Hello I watched your video,very helpful I replaced the cylinder end cap took it apart and put everything back but now the cylinder won't go up or down also made sure the pressure relief valve was closed,any tips would be great thanks
@@BrandonsGarage I did till the fluid was coming out the fill hole but the piston doesn't go up or down,as was watching the video I noticed that you put the spheres inside the springs { after installing the seal pack } while mine had springs t-shaped pin on top of the springs and spheres on top
I'm having an issue with the piston assembly. How many check balls, springs, and rods are there. I have 6 springs, 5 balls, 5 push rods, and 1 small orange colored piece. Should I have 6 push rods?
I recently rebuild my 2000 Johnson 50, and it works fine going down, barely budges going up. In video you added fluid before putting top back on, local marina told me to only add in fill hole. Could this be my problem?
Is the tilt unit strong enough to hold the engine up under full power to act like a trim unit or not? Just trying to figure out if it's worth me repairing my tilt or just raise the base of my tilt unit higher to get the cavitation plate even with the angle of the boat bottom.
You failed to show how to break loose the gland nut! At minute 27, you said it broke loose earlier so it shouldn't be too bad. How do I loosen it? My spanner wrench and arm muscle isn't enough to break loose mine.
Did you get a good look at those Springs and BB valves that are on that piston? Mine had a piece of plastic in one of those check valve holes. I freaking lost it. I'm just wondering if that's why one of the Springs appeared shorter on yours. I can't find information on it. For all I know someone threw it in there to replace the BB
The unit looks very dirty and you dont seem to care about it. They should be cleaned before you disassemble it. Never paint anything until the unit is clean and reassembled. Tape up the rod too.
Ebay is your only real option. You can join forums and groups. People always have them for sale, but eBay has a great buyer protection program; which I really enjoy the comfort of having.
Mine keeps on bleeding down after replacing all the sales with the checkball on the filter valves 0335171 - Valve Seat Cause that problem if the ball slips through the plastic
Hey Brandon, Happened upon your channel in my search for working on my 1989 88HP SPL Johnson OB. I'm wanting to add a power trim unit to it as it doesn't have it. Have you ever done this or have any info on it? I looked for an email to contact you vs on your YT channel. Thnx for any info or help
Do you have a video on running the wiring I just bought oue and don't know where the wires go coming from the relays there is 3 red wires and I know they go on the wire rail but don't know the placement
Hello, I have a problem that the midle piston does not move up, any idea what can this be? Could this be related with those o-rings that you swap near the motor? What was your original problem with that trim? Thank you! ;)
@@BrandonsGarage I have one trim for a evinrude 75hp. It has 1 small piston on each side that made the navigation position and one in the middle, those 2 are working but the bigger one does not react when it has to move up. Only without load and with the purge open. Which o-rings do you refer? Those near the motor? I've taken this to some guys to repair but no one knows how to repair it. :/ can you give a little hand here? :D
I'm struggling to complete Trim tilt wiring. Older Johnson 115. 3 wires (blue,blk,grn) 2 black wires joined. Looks like I'm missing some relay box with a wire harness. There is a 5 pin plug coming from throttle tab. How can I get this relay/solenoid box kit? Is possible to make it? I want easy and fast! This is last step until I launch this project. Thanks for any help.
Your problem is its a 3-wire motor. All boxes/dual relay setup is for a 2 wire motor. youre going to need a relay or a solenoid. Dual relays if you want to use the switch built into your controller.
@@BrandonsGarage it works if I jump with battery or juice off starter. I want to use existing controller tab. Where is it supposed to bolt down? Should I make from scratch or buy used off ebay or local motor bone yard?
Man I'm getting ready to do this job with a crappy diagram with just numbers on it and no manual. I wish you had better close ups of the orings and seals! Very dark and hard to see!
Yea his videos are hard to see and he skips some important parts. Plus his ads pop up when you're trying to rewind everything. It's a terrible video. I've wasted more time trying to watch it. If rather not have came across it
That's a slide wrench. Top pin is threaded on inside . Wrench screws in and a weight is slid to pull the pin. My 2000 50hp has a keeper on the back of the pin that has to be removed prior to pulling top pin.
Did all this to mine and the top seal still leaks. Lasted a few months. I have the same unit and you have to pull the bottom bolt and slide it out to add fluid. Stupid design.
Cant even get to the manual release valve. Imagine being out on the water, the unit fails, and you need to remove the lower half to get to the screw/valve to get it down. Dumb. On a side note, its also one of the most valuable PT&T units.
Mike Hull it is a straight pin so had to knock it out. Was very tight so used penetrating lube and made a puller to give some help using the thread in one end. Then knocked it out with a punch. Had to notch the cast out to get a straight hit and even heated the alloy.
@@rodneywilliams624 what size thread is in that upper pin? Wanting to use a slide hammer but don't know what size thread the inside of that upper pin is.
