Brandon mi trim cuando el motor empieza a bajar hace un movimiento que hace que golpetea o cabecea,esto lo hace únicamente al bajar el motor!!,sabras a qué se debe esta falla?,gracias.
That’s to bad you didn’t answer my comment before I left for Parker ! I have a complete tilt and trim from a 110 hp Johnson I would have brought to you for free . But I’m home now after taking care of my fathers belongings after he passed in Quartzite ! We have a AOMCI meet in Constantine, Michigan on the 7th - 10th and of course our International meet on 3rd - 6th of August ! If there’s something your looking for let me know ! I can’t deliver it but can ship it to you !
Another common cause of the motor appearing to fail on these old Evinrude/Johnson tilt and trim units is the thermal cutoff inside the motor. I've ended up hardwiring the contacts to bypass the cutoff in my 140, as it is far too keen to cut power even when the motor is extremely cool... probably just a poor quality aftermarket motor design. That would be what I'd check next for anyone that follows this video and doesn't have a seized shaft like this one was.
I'm planning on installing a power tilt on my 1982 evinrude 70hp that is factory equipped with manual tilt. I know the tilt pump will bolt onto the transom mount, but I'm curious if it also requires a specific hinge plate for the motor?
So QooL man Mine came without electronic trim assembly but just happy with boat for now. For 900$ total on boat…I’m gonna live for a minute with no electronic trim Rest of it stoked on so, until then, watched the video to learn anyways.🌵🧀🐠
I replaced all the seals in the hydraulic part but I know there's more O-rings inside like where the manual release is and brass bushing in there as well do you have any videos of changing that
The Problem with these imported motors is the waterproofing. I'd venture a bet that if you took the motor apart you'd find a lot of corrosion from water coming thought the wire holes. I had a similar issue; my solution was to clean and rebuild the motor and add a tonne of polyurethane to where the wires go in, not a pretty fix but it works.
Thanks for that info pal .Very interesting .I'm nearly ready to drop my motor back into the housing and line it up with the drive pin .So can I please ask ....Does the motor need to be sealed tight .Mine was full of water and oil .The outside casing was cracked (big plastic casing the motor drops into ) I've got the motor running great but worried about water ingress again .Thanks again for your comment
Any idea how to get a seized manual relief valve out. On a Johnson . I put so much torque it broke the flats off the screw. Tried to drill it. And got fluid to come out slow. So the motor was able to lower over 2 days. Tried to heat it and still nothing. And I can't put much torque with one flat snapped off.
After watching this, I don't feel so bad about mine. It leaks fluid from the main tilt ram and needs top ups often. It *always* sounds like it sucking air/cavitating, and *always* acts slow and not like a factory new unit. I have the seals and special wrenches to rebuild it, but it's still working, so meh. I feel like it wasn't the most ideal design for 30+ years of service, once things weren't perfect and started wearing out, but hey it still lifts and lowers the motor when the fluid is high enough, so whatever. Right?
I have a one of the last 2-stroke 15hp Johnson motors about 2005. Anyways it was the year they started out making 2-strokes and ended up making 4-strokes. I recently replaced a spun prop and to my surprise it was held on by a nylon nut and that's all. No holes for a cotter pin and no other device to lock the nut in place and keep it from spinning loose. What's up with that?
Hi i need you help my friend my trim It does not want to work, I have changed the seals and the toilet pump is fine, the motor is also there. but I do not want to go up or down that you think is my problem can you help me
