Changed the oil on my bike again, and made a video for my future reference. I do swear quite a bit at my bike and Yamaha in general, but it is an easy-ish bike to maintain and a hell of a lot of fun to ride.
You don't need to remove the crash bar or the brake lever. Just use a 14mm wrench and remove the one directly in front of the cover. Two bolts and out.
Thank you man. You help me and my partner change the oil in my bike. Same model too! We enjoyed the experience and it was alot of fun. Thank you again.
Thanks Alex, very detailed video on oil change. I really appreciate that you mentioned your previous mistakes as they are just as important as the job itself. I will watch your other Virago videos. I hope you make more soon. I learned a lot. I have to clean the carbs now. That would be a good video to do. Thanks again.
Thanks John! I have been meaning to do a carbs video; they can be a pain to take off. I found that to get one of the boots off you need to get at it from the other complete other side using an extender. I know my carbs are probably gunked up, but I have other videos already on the go and I really should finish editing one of them and upload it soon...
I have the same bike. Same colors. Same year. My neighbor just gave it to me. Thanks for the upload. I was looking everywhere for the oil filter. Definitely not as easy as the oil changes on my Intruder VS 1400
Just stumbled upon your video. Lol as you started talking I was saying yo myself this guy must be Canadian! Then I saw the Ontario plate. Lol good video bud!
Something weird about yr crash bars, I didn't need to do anything with mine, the oil filter cap just came off. I do have an older model, '84... Good vid, keep going man
The engine was originally designed for the XV920 and TR1 bikes which had the footrests in the conventional position. When it was fitted to a cruiser type of frame they had to move the footrests to a foot-forward position and as the frame had no downtubes they fitted that footrest support bar which now got in the way of the oil filter cover. On the original applications of this engine it was perfectly accessible. Check out the magnificent TR1 for example: www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_XV1000%20TR1%2081.htm
I watched this last year before I tried my first change with the bike. What a pain! I was swearing that I was going to sell the thing before I would ever have to do that again. Hopefully I will have more patience since I now know what to expect with the next change.
Please do it!I've bought mine two weeks ago, "the seller told me it was just serviced", but the oil was as black as Trump's thoughts and dreams, the filter basically clogged. Don't forget the fuel filter, that's a real pain in the neck.,,,
I GOT MINE ON AND OFF JUST UNDOING THE 3 ALLEN KEY STUDS USE SHORTEST END OF KEY EASY PEASY TIP CHECK THE SEAL OF THE COVER IF ITS WORN DAMAGED ECT THEN WRAP PTFA TAPE ROUND IT JOB DONE
😂😂great commentary. 👍 did you replace the o rings on the filter too? I have done air filter, but can't work out how on earth that gets air through it as the grille is solid rather than open.... Yamaha styley😮
I was getting the FRAM CH6004 replacement filter, and it came with all new o-rings in the box, so I would replace them each time. However, at some point FRAM changed the large o-ring size in their box (it was about 1cm too large), so I ended up having to re-use the big one the last two oil changes on this bike. I misspoke this video where I said there was a another "filter" at 3:44, what I meant to say was "o-ring". RU-vid used to have this feature for on-screen messages that I had set up to visually show what I meant, but they seem to be gone now. The air box "breaths" through a couple of tubes behind the box. Not a lot of air needed I guess. You'd never see them doing the air filter replacement. I only saw them when I took the carbs out to clean them and re-sync them. Never made a video for that though.
engine oil pressure Chek oil lines main engine oil gallery to the cylinder road . trese lines should be inspectend one month to ensure they have not Bern damagend clymer pg 79 virago 1100 RJ brazil very good explication ! 👍👍😃
Changing the oil is about 45-60 minutes if you have engine guards. Without would be 15 easy. The is also a pinned comment from some guy saying it's much easier than I make it out to be. Never got a chance to try.
They may have been over-tightened when it was last opened. The 84/85 Virago is slightly different, but the oil filter cap is very similar. Try using an Allen-bit in a socket wrench. If the extra torque from the longer handle doesn't work, give the handle a gentle whack with a hammer to "break" the lock. I have had to do this to other Allen-bolts on my bike and had to REALLY whack the thing so hard I thought it would break! Start soft though. Good luck!
No, you need to take all the bolts out to get the oil filter cover off. It's pressed in there quite firm and there's a gasket you need to either keep or replace. There's a spot for a flat-head screwdriver to help you pry to cover open.
I have a question . The oil level should be checked on the stander or with both wheels touching the ground . Because i think it makes a difference. I want to change the oil and this is what bothers me. Looking for someone's reply. Thank you.
If you are changing the oil, just be sure to have it on the centre when looking in the little window to get your measurement. When draining too; I made the mistake of keeping it on the side stand.
The stand brings the back tier up and tilt the motorcycle in front . I do not mean left right tilt . I am not sure if should check window on stand or on the wheels 🤦♂️. Thank you for replay 👍
@@BRN94 Interesting... I've never thought about it. The window is at the front of the bike bike's engine, so even on the centre stand, it would (if nothing else) look fuller. As much as I swear and curse Yamaha, they probably thought of that and built it specifically to show the proper level with the rear tire in the air.
I know. I have heard some different opinions that's why i asked you too . It was a pleasure talking with you . You have done a great job with the video . Ride safe on an awesome machine ✌.
All the bolt holes are equally spaced, but there is definitely a correct way. If you hold the cover up to the engine case you can see the outside of the cover is actually "shaped" to match the contours of the engine. Of the three bolts that come out, one it extra long; that's the bottom one. Don't forget the drip catcher on the bottom bolt as well; it keeps oil from spilling onto your pipes when you do the change.
@@israelrivera2830 At around 4:42 in this video, you can sorta make out the inside of the filter cap. There is only one "hole" directly in the centre of mine. Or do you mean on the filter itself?
When you install it it’s facing up.i’ve seen 2 other video and one person said that the hole goes facing up.the other video says that it goes towards the screw on the left side.so I’m confused.thanks.
I am using Royal Purple 10w40; it's a synthetic blend that covers the bases for warm and cold weather. The manual suggests 20w40 in warm (summer) weather and 10w30 in the cold (autumn). The filter is a FRAM, but I don't remember the model number (I will see if I still have one when I get home). I picked it up at Crappy Tire for cheap.
I found it! FRAM filter is CH6004. It comes with all three rubber gaskets that you'll need for the job, but keep the old ones just in case; I had one box where one of the gaskets was the wrong size before.
Thanks for showing, but you don't have to take the rear brake, nor the crash bar off!! Take the left 10 mm nut off with a 14 mm tool, then the other one underneath the bike in front. You do not have to take the front bolt/screw out, there's enough space to get that done. Why do Americans always have to use fuck for almost all? Please watch better movies when you're planning an oil change and be aware that there're two more O-rings, not gaskets what the guy's calling them.
