1997 - 2001 Honda CRV Automatic Transmission Removal 

Got everything back in and.....still overrevs with the torque converter light thing on. Ugh.....

@@bixby9797 what did you do now?

@@bixby9797 have you try unplugging the battery for more than 15 mins and see what happens

Wow luckily you had a code pop up. I try readying mines and only reads 3 errors.🤦 nothing about transmission or torque converter

@@hittlerbrito3236 Yes, tried that. Put in the transmission medic stuff and drove it gently for a year. Finally gave up the ghost and just revs but doesn't move. Pulling the transmission again to get it rebuilt.

Good luck!

Good stuff

Glad it helped!

I don't know if I had a detailed install or not

Yessir!

Rust is pretty non existent here

phillip@thehondaresource.com

Man I've put probably 10-15 jdm engines in these over the years

There is no drain plug? Have you considered changing the solenoids?

No trans filter to worry about.

It's not AWD either bro but I read up in some old forums about it idling slightly higher because of the torque converter if I'm not mistaken but that I can be driven with no issues but with a check engine like which I don't mind..

I'm not 100% sure on the crv's I know several of the other Honda's the jdm trans will "work" but usually isn't "right"

I don't really know much about auto trans internals, but it sounds like you have some issues

You don't have to but you can if you desire to.

I have a transmission shop do the actual rebuild?

I’m talking about the 3 that connect to manifold

They are available through honda, part number 90212-SA5-003 or you can go to your hardware store. The thread pitch is m10x1.25

No sir

@@hondaresource Appreciate the response! Thanks for making such helpful videos. You've saved me a lot of money over the years.

did you drain and fill the fluid or power flush it?

I did change the fluid and actually found the issue. I didn’t disconnect the negative battery terminal when I changed the solenoids and apparently the ECU needs a reset. I erased the DTC with my OBII reader but resetting the ECU is needed. The transmission shifts smoothly through all gears and replacing the solenoids appeared to do the trick. Thanks again for the quick reply to my question.

@@slorice8723 so changing the solenoid and fluid fixed the issue? has it been good ever since? where did you get the solenoids? and one more thing lol you replaced both solenoids, top and side?

@@aaleexsaalaazaar I ended up getting a rebuilt transmission. I changed the fluid several times as well as all the solenoids. I’m pretty sure the torque converter was shot at 239K miles. It’s interesting, when installing a rebuilt transmission it took 7 quarts of fluid. I did install a external cooler that took about 1/2 quart.

As far as I know. I had one here not long ago that someone did that to. I haven't done it myself though

@@hondaresource thanks buddy

It can only be changed by rebuilding the transmission

labor rates vary. Here a swap out would run about $1500 parts and labor. A rebuild would run about $2200

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y15fKjW9F1M.html This is the best on the market, hands down.

Was entertaining the idea of using one of these gaskets and now I know why. You rock brother. Cheers

You won't regret it

hmmm. kinda sounds like you may have a bad trans

once you get the transmission out, it slides right out of the transmission

That would require disassembly of transmission and I don't work on auto transmissions

@@hondaresource oh, is it really taking out the whole transmission? Or can it just be done from the side passenger side wheel to take that filter out?

Adjust the valves and check compression

@@hondaresource ok thanks

Did you do a drain and fill or power flush

@@hondaresource Drain and refill. 250k Broke the connector to the shift solenoid when replacing the transmission mount (long story). Replaced with used from eBay. I may be answering my question with the broken shift solenoid.

I'm in Alabama

Thanks, I appreciate it

Thank you

Take the driveshaft out🤣

@@hondaresource thank you for your reply. Your awesome..

Did you figure it out and get it installed? The transmission on my '98 CRV finally died around two weeks ago and it's just shy of the 299K mark. I've been scouring youtube vids to see if I can handle this job.

@@hondaphan4172 No. I didn't figure it out. YET. It feels like the correctly ordered steps to install would be very helpful. It is one of those parts that you need to know where the hammer it just right to make it fit or which bolt goes first. There are two outside dowels and the main one in the middle of the circular flex plate. Something is blocking mine from mating the two outside dowels. I'm probably doing something wrong. There are two 17mm nuts on the mount under the air box. Maybe taking those threaded rods completely out would give enough wiggle room to get the dowels mated. It seems easy, but I cannot find videos of an installation, step by step.

@@stevebowling6884 Ok, thanks for the info. Please keep us posted. Thanks again.

@@hondaphan4172 Obviously I'm not a pro, so take these steps with that consideration. Finished installation last night and turned the engine over and the donor transmission does sound like it is functioning, but the emergency brake is grabbing so hard the CR-V will not roll without lots of noise. Here are my suggested steps in order: 1. With the transmission on the ground, insert the torque converter onto the shaft of the trans. There are 3 sections, so 3 'clicks', you are done when the torque converter is not flush with the housing but inset by 1/8 in. 2. Lift trans, I used a homemade hoist and 3 jacks, (1 jack for trans, 1 jack for engine, 1 ) and guide the two cone shaped mounting threads under the air box into the mount, 17mm nuts. As the threaded rod is just entering the mount, go under and slide the 14mm bolt into the side of the transfer case with the Y shaped bracket. Keep all that loose. The exhaust pipe will block the 14mm bolt, 130mm long, if you lift the trans into place. The Y bracket has two 12mm bolts of different lengths that screw into the engine, the bottom of the Y is the hole for the 14mm bolt going into the side of the transfer case. Lift a little higher, then place another jack under the transfer case and lift it higher, keeping tabs on the Y bracket. Use a small long bolt as a guide for the 17mm above the transfer case next to the two 19mm bolt holes. Lift watching the dowel in the front. put the two 17mm mounting nuts on, about half way, you may need wiggle room. The next blocking item is the center of the torque converter. It needs to align with the flex plate on the engine. Lift the engine with another jack until the trans housing slowly comes to the engine. The aluminum is soft so don't force the 17mm housing bolts until the housing is close to alignment. Tighten the two 17mm mounting nuts, tighten the 14mm bolt in the side of the transfer case, that will pull the back over so the 3 bolts above the transfer case will align. It has to be close. There is a second dowel pin on the back side as well. The mount on the right front should be added to provide more alignment. At some point during this wrestling match the housing will align and the 17mm housing bolts will screw in by hand. There are 7 housing bolts, 2 of which are 19mm. Then put a 19mm socket on the crankcase, turning clockwise per one pro. Align the flex plate holes with the torque converter holes, screw in the 8 10mm bolts hand tight because if you leave one up, it will jam hard when rotating the crankcase. Then tighten. From there it should be down hill, electrical connections, cooling tubes. We bolted the cooling tubes in first then the 10mm clamping bolts with some wrestling. With the transfer case bolt in tight, then add the drive shaft, 4 bolts with a 12 pt 12mm I think.Then the starter. Add the shifter cable and the plate, cover over the flex plate. The right front axle is easier. Good videos on that. The left front axle needs to compress to about 24.5 inches. If not, hold it vertical and bang it on the carpeted floor. castle nuts and fork bolts and tires. Fill the transmission with fluid; I would run the engine for 5 minutes or so then drain the fluid out to inspect what comes out. You have no idea what the donor transmission condition is. Inspecting the junk yard CR-V, it looks like the timing belt broke and the owner gave up, so my donor should be ok. Transmission fluid is running about $70, so if it looks good, refill and drive. Have fun. Note: Pro repair minus my parts cost divided by hours spent gets me somewhere at $100-$150 per hour in savings. Big job but worth it, minus the stupid mistakes of course.

@@stevebowling6884 Thanks for the detailed installation tips and tricks. I'll admit my head was spinning from all of the info that you provided...gonna have to read it a number of times to visualize the process. Thanks.

10ft/lb

Yes but not something I care to do again

Correct but the process is near identical for all 97-01

@@hondaresource thanks for the reply

You may be able to but the easiest way is to remove the pipe.

I'm in Alabama

Sheesh. I recently pulled one and had it rebuilt for the customer. I think all in all, labor and rebuild was around $2500

@@hondaresource if you got any rebuild kit reference numbers, please send my way. Thank you.

i got a 4 speed AT 20021-PDM-A60 in this 2001 CRV. any info is much appreciated.

Roughly 450 including the fluid

@@hondaresource hey can i get your infor to contact u