better than the 1a auto video. hadn't thought about the tie straps. did mine this weekend and can't get the drums on. the brake pads are way outside. i'll go back to figuring on what the heck i did wrong.
Not sure if the 1500 is the same as the 2500-3500 trucks but I don't see why they wouldn't be. If you're going to change the rear brake cylinders use the 30mm ones that Chevy trucks used I stead of the 27mm dodge ones. They bolt right in place with no modifications & you'll get better stopping ability. Also most of the time they need at least new adjusters (make sure to use copper never seize on them) if not the spring kit too.
Dodge, GM and Ford ALL use Bendix brakes. That's why they are so much alike -- but critically different. In Europe, every maker uses Bosch brakes. Yeah, due to patents, Bosch and Bendix have territorial monopolies. Japan is different. BTW, you'll never see Bendix putting its brand on its stuff. Ditto Bosch. Such is the nature of the OEM marketplace.
Nice instructions but the longer shoe that goes to the rear is the secondary shoe the primary is the front shorter shoe... Just thought you might want to know, Great video!
If the drum brakes are bad, will it make a high pitched grinding noise? I'm having this problen on my 97 dodge 5.9 1500. The sound is coming from the rear of the truck. I'm hoping its just brakes and not the third member.
You should put the pins first to hold the shoes and don't worry so much about keep it them in place you can always do that at the end. There's different ways to do it but as long as you get them done that's what matters.
If you have it, a NIB magnet even beats tape for holding the critical pin in position while you fiddle with the assembly. Dirt has no impact on a NIB magnetic field. BTW, with smart phone cameras -- take photos galore all of the way. Also, use the passenger side R&R as a guide to the driver's side R&R. Never have both taken apart at the same time -- but both must be attended to -- or you'll have an un-drivable machine. With high mileage -- just replace everything other than the backing plate. Your machine will drive as if it just left Detroit.
Chuck T yeah idk if I can afford that dealer life either. I’m probably just going to change the front myself and take it to someone to change the rear.
Learned a couple of cool tricks, but you're WAY short on details. Disassembly would be nice, as would replacing the wheel cylinder and bleeding the brakes.
Very true, I've seen plenty of people fight through drum brakes with screwdrivers and pliers. While I tip my hat to them, having the right brake tools makes a huge difference during assembly AND removal
I have 1995 Dodge van 1500 , I went to the store and that's what they gave me they were the wrong ones. I went. Back and the parts guy looked it up and they ended up being 1996 shoes. There's a little pin that sits on the end of the shoes that makes a difference. My problem is that i can't find a video for it. Please help, I have one side off and the other side fell apart.
Oh absolutely.. you show some great tips.. but I haven't had success finding anything about actually changing the shoes out.. it's always how to change pads. If you can find a vid.. please send link! :)
2 springs are a little different but basically the same process though ...you can do the job with this vid and a pic of the brake set up[Before you pull it all apart for the spring difference and placement]
John Work, Thanks for bringing that up, I recently learned on my own truck that Chrysler is notorious for not using grease on brakes (disk and drums) so you are absolutely correct that we should have greased it despite what they say in their procedure and/or specs!
He showed he made a mistake with adjusting piece then showed the correct way but I seen it end up the wrong way still. Come on your gonna help at least do it correct
Please share some, Seriously! I've got a rear brake on my truck that's squeaking almost all the time (cheap slide springs) Better/Faster approach would probably keep me from procrastinating further!
