Thank you for this great solution. I had cleaned my throttle body and the ignition air control valve and still the car quit at stop lights. I was ready to take it to a mechanic and pay through the nose. Part was $17.50 but instantly fixed the problem. Cost was $25.00 including the wrench! Who knows how much I would have been hosed if I hadn't came across your video.
Did it idle very low before it stalled? Mine was goin extremely low like it would stall. But it never did. Now tho, it stall off as soon as it turns on unless foots on gas
This video might have just saved my ass. I've been trying to hunt down the cause of my high/bouncing idle on my '88 MR2. I've replaced vacuum lines, cleaned the throttle body and IACV, adjusted the TPS, bled the coolant several times, installed some new gaskets, and more with no luck. I heard about the coolant sensor being a potential issue, but ignored it at first becasue I had no idea where to locate it on my car. Went to inspect it just now and the conductor end has completely disintegrated. Unplugging the sensor brought my idle down to 900 from 1200 before (but with a CEL of course). Anyway, I am excited that it may just be a $12 sensor for me to finally get this annoying issue resolved. Thank you so much for this really quick and concise video. Wish I had seen this earlier... as it seems idle issues like this exist on basically all Toyota models from the 80s-00s.
5 years and 125k views later, and this video is still saving people time and money! I wish all of my videos were like this! Glad I could help, good luck with the MR2!
@@colhunt76 Thanks! While the coolant temp sensor did help regulate the idle slightly and was definitely in need of being replaced, i finally tracked my issue down to leaky fuel injector seals. I was already pretty fed up with the car at that point and didn't want to tear down a bunch of the engine again just to replace those seals, so I actually sold the car a while ago.
For both water temperature sending units, I remember having a hard time getting the thermostat to read accurately, so I replaced both water temp senders, and even the water neck they go into, and the temp reader on the bottom of the radiator. Even after all of that, the reader kept reading high near overheat. Then, after changing the car battery, I realized the cooling fans turned on in intervals again, without the AC, and being unplugged. Also, if a sales rep selling the temp sending reader says you can put these temp sensors straight on the water neck without a washer, ignore it, and get the washer anyway. The sensor will melt on the water neck if applied directly...
Yes! I have this issue in my 89 Camry.. I bought it this way but noticed the former user unplugged the idle air control valve...and I get high rpm anytime I plug it back. Am going to replace my water blah blah blah sensor ...lol
Thank you this worked for me 99 Camry LE 2.2 thought I'd mention on install usually sensor doesn't come with gasket can thread tape it, and when installing do not tighten with tool there's a threshold you will break sensor if you try to wrench tighten can get seated with just your hand, Hopefully this continues to hold up so far a godsend also order online parts are 2 to 3 times as much at store
my manual camry would turn off while driving if I was either switching between gears or stopped at a light. happened once going 40 in a city streets, very spooky lol changed the coolant temp sensor and it fixed the wonky idle, and no more stalls while driving (last 20k miles)
I work on all my cars, I have a 90 corvette zr1 and a 96 corolla, I’ve been to hell and back trying to fix this problem, you showed me how to fix it in 5 minutes lol thabkyou
Mines was sticky at 358,592 miles when I got the car from a friend cleaned the throttle body and used wd40 for the throttle cable problem solved didn't had to replace the iac
At about $20 ... just get one and install it and if the problem is gone, you spent $20 and solved a problem! A PCV valve on a 2000 Corolla is also easy to replace or clean and can save you BIG costs.... clean it every year at least with throttle cleaner... takes maybe 30 minutes max!
I've changed the coolant temp sensor and the iac (Both were bad and fixed my idle) but my check engine light won't go away with P0505 code and my idle is at 600 but i believe that is within normal range.
@@jannerbugarin3009 I thought so at first but the actual promlems was indeed gunk build up in the throttle body. I changed to temperature sensor and it the engine rev was higher.
I own a 90 celica Gt and im having this problem, ill see if I can get a part from the scrap yard and take care of my slightly high idle, Edit: 6 months later Still like this bit it's only at 1k to 9sumthin and every now and then it evens out at 750 but that's rarely, im living with it, i did replace the sensor and I soldered a new connector on, and my oil pressure sensor was leaking and I put a boot on that from another car,
The hose on the IAC valve seems as it has a small hole in it on this video. Maybe I'm wrong and it was dirt? It's near the end where it would hook onto the IAC if you watch the video where he shows down below.
What about a week idol After start up? My 2000 Camry ( With 453 K miles) Feels as if the engine is galloping For about 20 seconds yes if the engine is is warm warm but Quickly smooths out after turning on turning on the air conditioner or eat or even revenge revenge the engine the engine for about 2 seconds. I've owned the car since 10/99 And she's been doing it for the past 15 years but mechanics mechanics can't seem to catch why. She never feels as if she's going to stall but It's something that has always annoyed me.. Never happens after a cold start up start up And Only does it After I come out of a store Or something When the engine is still warm. Once you get her out of the galloping thing sing again by either turning on the AC or or riving the riving the engine for a second or 2 she she runs and drives like She did when she was new.
when i unplugged the coolant temp sensor the car cranked then started for a sec then died. I plug it back in and its cranks good, its just a low idle and rpms jump when in drive or reverse
Hey AJ, what if im getting a p0115 code, but the car is showing no symptoms? Should i start with replacing the sensor? Also if i change the sensor, do i have to drain the coolant? Same car 98 camry 2.2
97 Camry high idle when I drive it for 30 minutes if i put in reverse to park it dies then it wont start I have to wait when it cools down it want to start though so mechanic was busy shop so he said clean the throttle body and idle air control I did it did the same thing idle actually got higher then I did what you did 25 dollar I fixed it if I let the.mechanic fix it it would of cost 500 dollar until if they got it right thnk you I saved 500 dollar thanks again usually other youtubers leads you astray not you
97 avalon xls 1mz-fe engine what's your thoughts when car is in park or stopped at a red light it will rev to 2000 rpms and stay there for a random period of time any where from 5min to 10-15min then it will normalize and quick presses on the gas pedal won't change it or help bring it down to normal rpms it just comes down on it's own and it doesn't happen like a pattern just random I cleaned the entire throttle body and air intake system and replaced the IAC valve complete tune up including all new coil packs any thoughts?
Noted. Great info. But what if I have a low idle, or rough idle on cold start? I replaced everything I can possibly replace but yet I get a low or rough idle at cold start, especially in the winter. BTW mine is a 94 camry with the 5S-FE.
I replaced the sensor and it still high idles but if I take off the connector while it is running and it idled back down to 750 rpm like normal the moment i plug it back in straight up to 2100 rpm (i checked the new sensor resistance spec and it matches and is working as expected)
To continue, In my 1998 Camry LE, I have fast idling (1500-2000 ) at first then after a short run 10 to 15 Km. the idle goes back to normal 900. of course my gas mileage is gone to pots. ,Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Try pulling the electrical harness off of the coolant temp sensor while your idle is high. If it returns to the 850 - 900 range, the coolant temp sensor is your problem. I put a detailed description of how to swap the sensor in the video's description.
Unplugged mine and it immediately stalls, so I opened up the back up iacv since I closed it to see if that lowered the high idle, it did a couple hundred but still at about 1800rpm. Still wouldn't start
Just unplug the green electrical connector from the sensor to test it, not the sensor itself. The connector will come loose by pushing the tab on the side and pulling away from the sensor body.
Detailed instructions are in the description. A little fluid loss is to be expected. Back the sensor all the way out, put your finger in the hole to prevent further loss, have your new sensor handy, and quickly thread it in.
Mine run at a low (normal?) idle speed but it's not stable. It goes up and down a little but never stall. Could this be caused by this sensor too ? I can't try it before a few days.
That's the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender". It's the responsible for sending the temperature to the instrument cluster. The ECT (this video) it's the responsible for sending the Coolant Temp to the Car Computer.
