1998 Chevy Lumina: How to Replace Rear Brake Shoes and Brake Drum 

Hey thanks man for the video you're awesome 5 years later and it's still helping me

You Did a great job ,I needed to know the procedure before I do my neighbors car ,like everything else you learn with experience , the old shoes were better than good as you probably know already ,but look on the positive side , when they need replacing the next time you can knock this job out in an hour , don't let the smarty pants people discourage you , its your $30 anyway ,keep the faith and keep going your doing a great job at shooting the video and helping guys like me who have been doing auto mechanics for 40 years but not this car and now I know the procedure thanks to you

Thank you so much you are the only video with this style of brakes i could find that showed the work being done. I sure do apreciate you.

thank u for these videos. it help me today replacing the wheel studs and breaks on the front and rear tires

SAY BE SURE TO!: Once the drum is removed, water hose off the old shoes and backing plate and all before disassembling to SAFELY remove dust you DON'T want to breath in. Spin the hub with your hand and wiggle, checking for possible bearing are going bad noise or roughness or looseness. Peek under the hydraulic cylinder's 2 rubber caps for signs of possible brake fluid leaking from seals, indicating cylinder replacement & bleeding needed. Sand paper and clean and then lightly grease the backing plate's 6 small flat surfaces the shoes metal contacts and slides on!!!!! If you don't your brakes can stick, click noise, not self adjust as well and wear groves into the metal backing plate flat surfaces requiring smoothing or backing plate replacement. I had good tricky luck using 2 long screw drivers to manipulate the U metal spring bar ends into the brake pad holes. Using one driver to move the bar towards me and at the same time using another driver to move the bar towards the pad's hole. Clean and lightly oil the self adjuster threads and turn it back in some shorter to accommodate the new thicker shoes. Also make sure you have the horizontal self adjuster forks installed with long bent tab in the back on one end and seated straddling both the shoe and park brake arm and the cap's beveled short slip in-end in the back on the other end. Then expand one shoe some to carefully work the 2 peice self adjuster back into place and then the adjusting star wheel tiny ARM. Tricky but eventually works even with 1 person. Make sure the adjusting star wheel ARM is touching the teeth so that it will self adjust whenever braking while backing up and the spring is not touching/stopping the teeth from turning. With a screw driver, manually turn the teeth to expand the brakes some then center the shoes with your palms and install the drum while checking for drum free spinning yet shoes are almost touching. Remove drum and adjust more or less to get the self adjusters close to touching. Make sure the hub's face and drum's inner mating to hub surface and drum's outer face to inner tire mating surface is free of excessive rust and debris that could cause uneven mating/sandwiching. Once done, carefully back up the vehicle while pushing the brakes pedal on and off to actuate self adjusters to click and remove any remaining shoe slack. Remember when you first start to apply the brakes, it's the rear brakes that come on first to keep the vehicle tracking straight. If the first pedal depression is not responsive, the rear brakes adjustment engagement are suspect.

Thanks Man....I was about to light a match into this entire car....LOL...Thanks for this again!

Very helpful! I might need to check my rear brakes check as I have to push the peddle down further to slow down the car. I only had the fronts done since I bought my '96 Lumina 4 years ago. I heard drum brakes cost more than disc. Lots steps involved , but looks easy to do.

Very thorough camera positioning made disassembly and reassembly much easier that if I had not viewed the video. Thanks.

I didn't hear any F-Bombs lol, Great job and thank you for the video.

Saving to watch later in case... thank you. '98 Lumina owner myself.

Great channel, you have really helped me out with my 99' lumina...one question though, should I change my drums if I only have 150,000 km or should I just change my shoes?

Thanks For The Video . It help me do a 99 Chevy Lumina.

Thanks for the great lesson you,have been helpful.👍

Thanks from Michigan! Much appreciated!

Very helpful thanks alot dog I couldn't figure it out but with your help it was very helpful thanks again

Same brakes as 1999 Buick Century. I've done this a couple of times. I just find it curious that GM did not use a primary and secondary shoes. The primary being the lead (facing front of the car) is typically smaller and the secondary larger. I can only raise one side of the car at a time. I get to the second side and that's when I think I mixed up the brakes. Nope both are the same size.

Mahalo for the video, lots of help!

Best video tutorial..thank you

the brake shoes was not wore out they was far from the metal but at least you done it right changing perfectly fine pads

Very nice thanx!!!

what was your thought process and picking or I'm shoes with rivets as opposed to Bonded? the shoes are the same size? Please clarify?

thanks men very helpful

Your shoes looked like they had plenty of meat led on them. You should also adjust your shoes after the drum is on. There is an access port behind the assembly where a brake adjustment tool or short flat screwdriver will spin that wheel to bring the shoes out. I observed you call them pads - I am also so used to all wheel disk brakes too. You should clean the assembly after the old shoes are out so as to maximize the cleaning solution. Good way to tell if your shoes are adjusted good is that the emergency brake will have a short distance to travel to apply the rear brakes. I just did the first replacement of rear shoes on my 2002 Chevy venture. Looked just like yours. I myself am not accustomed to that large retainer spring. Back in the 1990's when I did my last shoe job, there was a spring pin that held the shoes in place.

Sube mas videos del lumina broo, Bendiciones

Where do buy hub caps

the horseshoe is the biggest pita to get lined up, but it goes pretty deep on that nub there and you will know once you fuckin got that biatch also thank you very much for this video, my chevy malibu @ 300,000 miles had the horseshoe snap and i heard it rattling in there. the pads were still at like 80%, truly amazing and i use my parking brake every single stop use this car for delivery driver mode. the ultimate reliable car, the 3.1!

Your the best, your the shit, pat ya self on the back cause damnit these brakes were kicking my ass

The brake shoes that you pull out of the car still almost brand new...

Most of the time the back bearing will go out & you replace shoes while your there..car will give a sound like the brakes are going out with a vibration like a tire out of balance on the freeway..just check the bearing cause the brakes look fine on that car

Dude those brake shoes looked good. had as much meat as the new ones scuff them with 80 grit and save yourself 30$ wtf

Looking at the tattoo threw me me off for a few seconds , but good video.

This guy talks like an anime character.

its called a parking brake

1

those are shoes, not pads. And brake drums are not unusual on anything over 15 years old.

that was not really necessary to change the shoes on that car unless the rivit heads are almost flush with the surface of the brake lining material they were more likely out of adjustment and brake shops recommend putting a lubricant on the metal to metal contact points to prevent squeaking when braking. I you are not sure of what you are doing do a lot of research and ask questions before doing something your not sure how to do.