Good job, great video. A recommendation: when I make adaptations like this, I don't change several parameters at once: I mean I don't change injection timing and immediately injection quantity. I modify them one by one accompanied by tests while driving. With each change I take photos with my phone, so I can return to the original value if something goes wrong.
This works but be aware if you ever go to do a mechanical timing adjustment on the pump again your timing numbers will be all over the place on your vcds or scan tool and you won’t be able to properly adjust the timing , you must first return value to stock and then do injection pump timing
i spent 1400$ on vcds and still have no clue how to do any of this stuff. i wish there was a book on how to.love ur video i will try this tomorrow in my car and see how bad i will screw it up lol 😆
@@GigaVidsthere any chance this is still true? I’m battling issues with my car after replacing the timing belt and really need vcds but can’t justify spending so much on it to use it for 10 minutes
Iv,e had the car for 3yrs so confident its not air in the fuel, (x hgv mechanic & spot on with diesel repairs), car is good compression wise im sure, have replaced timing belt & set with timing tools, belt tension spot on, had to advance timing to reduce judder though, but it was no better or worse than before i changed the belt, no starting problems hot or cold fires up straight away in all weathers, but you can tell the timing is advanced as it struggles sometimes to fire smooth as though its out of time (it is though so that's expected, if i time it spot on it fires & starts 100% but judders a lot more), again i think its fuel related because if ''as many many people say'' if you have air con on the judder is a lot less, viewing this with vcds it shows more fuel delivery compensating for the air con, therefore giving a smoother idle ( its smooth as a baby's bum when its cold out so it must deliver more fuel therefore the reason for my thinking fuel delivery), im confident its fuel related & mainly just tickover but if the revs are raised it will rock/judder upto 1500-1800 after that its spot on ??, drives & goes like stink but has the judder/rocking below the stated rpm. Have thought about removing injectors replacing seals & stretch bolts plus loom but have read many have done this with no luck ?.
By advancing injection You increase maximum combustio pressure. Having big diference between pmax and pcomp is not so good for engine. Why did you do that anyway? If you feel that is too late you better check the timing belt, or timing adjustment as per instructions
No coolant loss (2009 58 rg so newer type head), no loss of anything, runs sweet & pulls well, just the judder when warm/hot, just popped out & nudged the front cam ''very very slightly back'' still the same, judder/rock/miss is from tick-over gets worse ''just' above 1000 rpm then goes & is ok after that, but you can feel it when driving Slow in traffic or car parks etc etc, tick-over is much better from stone cold when tick-over slightly higher & slight fuel adjustment is automatically made same with air con on as everyone else reports. I can get starting smoother by putting cams in perfect time with locking tools but judder is to bad for me to put up with.
Howdy! For Golf4 Tdi Axr PD, can the electronic adjustment be done with wcds? If the distribution is set mechanically perfectly, can the injection time be adjusted electronically?
Wonderful Job Your are the man! Where did you get the setup so I can do mine. I have a 2001 Audi 4 1.8T balck smoke on spark plugs not oily Malone tune 1.5 and need injector mapped whow do I do this? and where do I get the program (Downloaded) I need help!!!!!
+eudiaqui1 Some of the numbers came from VCDS. The software will pop up information about the value that you are trying to change. And some just came from using it and trying different numbers.
The program is called VCDS, and it is manufactured by Ross Tech. They make a very good scanner for VW and Audi. This program was $370 and it will work on almost any tablet or laptop running a Windows operating system. Here is a link to their website. www.ross-tech.com/ Jesus is Lord Levi
Good questions... Yes, it is an Acer tablet running Windows 8. Any laptop, or tablet with Windows 7 or newer should work (except RT). Here is a link to the cheapest VCDS cable, but it limited to 3 VIN numbers for advanced functions, but it can be upgraded to 10 VIN numbers for an additional $100. store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/ Jesus is Lord Levi Jefferies
Hi, i have a vw golf with the 2.0tdi BKD engine, its common for these to have a rough/rocking engine idle, rev counter does not move its just the engine rocking, it does not do this hardly when cold, the inj quantity is higher when cold when watched with vcds so im sure its something to do with fuel delivery when the engine is warm/hot, it always idles rough when its warm/hot, i have changed both engine coolant temp sensors & the fuel temp sensor, egr & shudder valve/flap are clean, i have nipped the cams forward 'slightly' to lessen the problem 'but thats not ideal' as it does affect starting somewhat, is there a adjustment i can make via vcds to solve this ''please'', vehicle is as follows, vw golf 2009 (58 rg) 2.0 tdi BKD engine. many thanks.
+billy wizz I do not believe there is any adjustment with vcds that would solve that problem. It could be air in the fuel line, bad injector/injectors, or low compression on one cylinder. It sounds like you may have already set the cam timing but if you did not, then that would need to be set correctly. Normally advancing it slightly will help cold starts.
Pendemic You are correct in that the timing is controlled mechanically, but it is also controlled by the ECU through the injection pump. Blessings, Levi
Levi Jefferies somehow ,in Golf 4,and 1998/1999 VW,the injection pump has some electronics in it. It has some Quantity adjuster and other things,which can be controlled a bit,through VCDS. Thanks RossTech,for everything they've done! Thanks for your video.
The 2004 Passat has a PD TDI engine with no injection pump (the pump is built into each injector). So no, the timing adjustment with VCDS will not work on this engine to my knowledge. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Thanks Jesus is Lord Levi
If it was only that easy!, this model has no dpf fortunately, don't really want to go to the expense of doing injector seals/bolts etc etc & it still to be the same, may just nudge the front cam back ''slightly'' to ease starting as it does not seem 100% happy as it is, im pretty sure if you move 1 then your suppose to move both unless anyone has just done the rear (injector cam) on its own.
+billy wizz It would be very hard to diagnose without being there. But you can check the injector balance with VCDS and that would tell you if a cylinder/cylinders are out of spec. Do you lose any coolant or no?
My 2002 Jetta TDI has always been hard to start. It just cranks too long. Especially hard when I shut it off and come back about 2 or 3 hours later, and it cools off but not cold enough for the glow plugs to come on. Runs good otherwise, getting 55mpg on the highway, etc. Is advancing the timing the correct fix to get it to start quicker?
camgreer Changing the timing electronically does not effect startup at all, it only effects the car once it is running. At the end of my video I check the mechanical timing by looking at the graph; that does effect startup. So make sure it is advanced enough. You may have a bad coolant temp sensor or the check valves in the pump may be bad. If the check valves are bad, you can put external check valves in the fuel lines by the fuel filter.
Levi Jefferies Thanks for the reply, Levi. I believe I am going to purchase the VCDS from Rosstech, and check it out myself, since I don't know anyone here in Anchorage that has one to let me use.
Normally hard starts are caused by the mechanical timing being off. Anyone that has VCDS can check the timing for you and make sure that it is correct. Air in the fuel lines can also cause a hard start. Sometimes a few check valves in the fuel lines by the fuel filter can correct this.
try temp sensor, if the glow plug go's off quick. to test unplug it. mine was taking to long to start, replaced glow plugs started up straight away, few hrs later no start uplugged temp sensor all good
I don't know for sure how to get those back in spec. A couple ideas... Had the camshaft been changed recently? If so, I wonder if the injector adjustment screws were set correctly. If I am correct, block 23 is injector deviation?
@@levijefferies9329, no camshaft removal, but i have been thinking if the camshaft could be the reason, but the lobes seems fine :/ what has been done to the car is a bigger turbo, and replacement of the PD's with 4 low milage PD's with firad +25% nozzles - car drives fantastic with 440nm. But all 4 are more or less out of spec by +100ms, with one(injector 4) being the worst - resulting in a error of regulation range exceeded - P1270 n243 is the error on vagcom :)
Do you know if the injector rockers were adjusted correctly when the injectors were installed? It is very important to set them correctly, but sometimes it isn't done correctly. Jesus is Lord Levi
To my knowledge, it is only possible to advance the timing of the MK IV Diesel engine, I have not attempted it on a 2.0. On a gasoline engine, if you did advance it, it could cause pinging (or predetonation) which could be very harmful to the engine. Jesus is Lord
Hello, I have a Golf mk4 1.4 16v. I have engine knock problem which seem to dissapear when I put 99 or 100 gasoline, (the car is developed for 91-95 gasoline, and I heard that if I put 99 or 100, te engine might wear faster). When I put 95 the knocking and pinging occurs at 2000 rpm.. My question is, can I change this condition with this method? Will this work for my engine? Nothing else seem to work, cleaned MAP sensor, knock sensor is OK, new Spark Plugs, EGR is ok, Injectors OK... The knocking is still there... I am still hoping.. Great video and thank you for sharing this info!
To my knowledge, the timing adjustment through VCDS will not work on a gasoline engine. If you are getting an engine knock or ping from pre-detonation then I would check for carbon buildup in the cylinders (which would cause higher compression) (a compression check may reveal this). Check the camshaft timing, and check for any fault codes regardless if they seem unrelated.
I have VCDS, no fault codes, nothing, the timing belt is mounted on the signs. Yes, I suspect the carbon build up, but the car has only 100.000km so... Don't know for sure if this might be the problem. What do you recommend for cleaning the carbon buildup without opening the engine?
Using a spray bottle, you can spray water in the intake with the engine running and slightly revved up. Or you could try Seafoam. You do not want to put very much water in it, just a light spray.
I am not sure what you mean by none tdi? If you go through the measuring blocks in VCDS, you should be able to find the camshaft timing for a gas engine. Also, if it skipped a tooth, it should throw a fault code for crankshaft or camshaft timing being off. Hope that helps. Jesus is Lord Levi Jefferies
@@levijefferies9329 Hi thank you for getting back .. yep I have code p0341 wanting to know if its the sensor or timing .. on vcds lite view scoop or view data on timing do you know where in meansuring blocks or somewhere else in VCDS .. when I mean non TDI .. i thought it only view TDI engines only or all engines not TDI ?
@@saabaero6211 VCDS works great with gasoline VW's and Audi's as well. I couldn't tell you what measuring block it is for sure, but I would just start going through them with the engine running until you find one with the camshaft timing. Jesus is Lord Levi Jefferies
I have an 02 TDI Golf 1.9. Its a US spec version. If I advance the timing through vcds will it need a mechanical advance also or will the programming be sufficient? I am going to be installing larger .216 injector nozzles. What do you recommend for my application? Everything else is stock, just will have larger injector nozzles and have Vag-Com. Is there anything you recommend changing the IQ to? I'm assuming this is like any other engine and advancing the timing will increase power and also mileage? Thanks.
The timing adjustment through VCDS will be sufficient. It will only throw a code if your mechanical timing is too retarded. The IQ for bigger nozzles is good at about 4.5 - 5.5. It would be more fuel and smoke at 4.5. The smoke will be greatly reduced with advancing the timing. It will also give you a small bump in power and mileage. Advancing the timing will cause increased cylinder pressures, so if your engine is modified, I would be careful not to cause any damage. It should be completely safe on a stock engine.
Nope not modified at all, just doing larger injector nozzles. What I want maximum power when I need it, but also want the same or better economy when I'm just driving normally. What actual data number would you recommend to put in for the timing should it be the same as you showed in the video? For the IQ numbers to get the desired air/fuel range what would you think would be a good number to input to get around 4.5-4.7? Thanks for quick reply as well.
L1Gh77 I have never attempted it on an AFN engine, but it may very well work. The pros are, less smoke, and slightly better fuel economy. The cons are slightly more diesel rattle at idle, and increased cylinder pressures. I wouldn't recommend it on a highly modified engine. It works very well to reduce smoke on a car with larger injectors.
The car isn't modified it has only straight pipe and hammer mod , but everything is near the stock parameteres . Does the car become more responsive or there is no difference at all?
L1Gh77 I believe it to be slightly more responsive, but honestly without a dynomometer it is very difficult to notice even a 5hp difference. Fuel economy does sometimes increase 1-2 mpg. This is my advice, try it and see if you notice any positive changes, if not, put it back where it was. We ran our car for roughly 20,000 miles this way before we sold it. We were hauling trailers very frequently and had larger injector nozzles. You are not going to harm anything, especially on a stock engine, so feel free to try it.
L1Gh77 Yes, I have removed EGR valves on TDI engines. You can also lower the EGR operation with VCDS using the same procedure as adjusting the timing. Just increase the EGR adaptation to 33268.
sparkadaus You're welcome. Any laptop or tablet running a Windows operating system can be made to work. I personally know that windows 8 works good, and have also run it on an old XP computer that was running Windows 7. Praise God!
Richard's World Traveler Yes, it will slightly improve fuel economy, but I am not sure on power. It would need to be put on a dynomometer to find out for sure. It's greatest benefit, is reducing smoke with larger injectors. Have a great day, Levi Jefferies
@@levijefferies9329 only thing I've done is she delete and straight piped. I adjusted the value down to get it where yours is at on the chart though. Should be good right?
Hello Levi Jefferies how are you ... I have an audi a4 2.5 tdi v6. I noticed the injection pump, when I set up I tuned it manually by the pulley, it works well but there is a noise at low speed, at high speed the noise disappears. Can I tune the injection pump this way? Thanks
@@lapazreyes The line should not go up with changing the numbers. It will only change when you adjust the physical timing on the injection pump sprocket. Sincerely, Levi Jefferies
+rammstein69 This will not work on a PD engine. The ECU does not give an option to adjust timing. The only way to adjust it is with a tune and you can adjust the torsion value of the camshaft.
I have a cam 272 and 903rpm relantim does a bit of smoke . if it goes advancement in injection reprogramming smoke the 903 rpm will decrease ? thanks
+rammstein69 Advancing the timing will reduce smoke to a point. Advancing the timing will increase cylinder pressure and is perfectly within the limits of a stock or lightly modified engine but if you are heavily modified then you may not want to do it.
thanks for the reply , my engine only has 272 degrees of camshaft and 1749vb , 220hp . forward 2 degrees of fuel injection in the ECU should not spoil anything
+rammstein69 2 degrees should not hurt anything but If you adjust it in VCDS all the way, it is almost 5 degrees. You are free to do whatever you like with your engine, I don't know for sure if it will work well with your mods. Just take care. I also am not sure what you mean by a 272 degree camshaft.
You can adjust the camshaft timing manually on a pd engine by moving the camshaft sprocket adjustment on the timing belt, but you cannot do it electronically. Adjusting the camshaft timing on a pd engine will also adjust the injection pressure at the time of the injector firing, and this can affect power and mileage. Putting it slightly advanced will oftentimes yeild slightly better power and better starting, while retarding the timing will generally slightly increase mpg but negatively affect starting in cold weather. Sincerely, Levi Jefferies
@@levijefferies9329 Thank you so much. My synchro angle stays at 0.0 but I think the cam sensor is bad because it doesnt move at all. The car has no power until 2000-2200 rpms. Its a 131hp ASZ Engine
@@Ch0k0TB it definitely could be the camshaft sensor. Check it for fault codes. It can read 0.0 for a few reasons. One being a bad camshaft position sensor, one having the timing dead on at 0.0, and the other having the timing more than 4.0 degrees off. Having no power until 2000 rpm is alot of times caused by the turbocharger having worn vanes. This can be corrected by replacing the turbocharger, or turning the vane stop screw in roughly one half to one whole turn. Sincerely, Levi Jefferies
@@levijefferies9329 Thank you so much for the reply. The turbo has been recently rebuild and set up to it's original settings. They did that on a turbo stand machine. The yellow marks on the actuator and stop screw are still there. I can hear the turbo spool but it's very sluggish until 2000 rpms and the power comes after that range. I'm wondering if it's a bad timing belt job, like off a tooth? The previous owner had done the camshaft and lifters so they might have messed something up like the timing.
@@Ch0k0TB it is definitely worth a try to check the timing. This is a good way to tell if it is the turbocharger. If you give it full throttle and it is really sluggish until 2000, and then at 2000 rpm it give so much power that it wants to just spin out instantly, then it is most likely the turbocharger, but definitely, check the timing first.
