1JZ VVTi S13 Swap Guide. What you need. 

+Rob thanks dude!

wish i still had it.. :(

SupremeCheeto same rn parting out all the goodies on my rsx and selling it and buying a shell and hoping to just drop all the cash in it probably will save a few I priced it up it'll come up to around 10k

thanks brother! new vid will be up this week!

Street Lethal Garage 👌👌

thanks man!

haha i know, dude. TEQ is a joke among my friends an i. i told them all it stands for "Toyota Exceptional Quality" LOL

feel free to ask any questions on this video, bud. I keep an eye on the comments and can help you answer anything you need help with.

contact them and inquire about a sponsorship they will tell you everything.

your first mistake is not buying a car simply because it has an automatic. just buy the damn car and do the manual swap. lol.. the 1jz is gonna be manual anyways.

the owner wants quite abit for the car thats why i havent purchased it yet, i live in canada so a s13's arte hard to come by especially with good frame rails.

have you drift this car yet?

haha thanks, and yea i know. the TEQ thing is just a running inside joke among some friends and i

the 1jzvvti with r154 gearbox like i used here is gonna cost you about 3500 shipped or 3k to 3.2k picked up locally. The wiring can be done cheap, its easy. budget 500-1k for it price varies on reworking the jzx100 harness vs a completely new harness mounts and brackets, 500.00 too many variables to quote you on cooling. lots of money can be saved or you could go all out like i did. I have a sponsorship with mishimoto that helped immensely. As for which engine you should go with. i'd absolutely without a sliver of a doubt recommend the 1jz over either of the RB engines. parts are plentiful and easy to source. most 2jz-gte stuff is compatible so autozone and napa, etc will carry maintenance parts to keep your engine going. If i had to guess quickly, i'd estimate i have around 6-7k into my swap as it sits right here. 100% worth every penny.

Appreciate the honesty and the time, only reason I considered the RB series was for the fact of the affordability I wanted to go 20 or 25 and Forge the internals out just so I could have a reliable 400hp plus without having to worrying about rings burning out on me or oil starvation issues. I knew right off the back the 1jz is quite sound internally it's just quite a bit for the motor n R154 transmission, as to where the 20 and 25 are cheaper it but I figured I'd be spending more in the long run trying to get those numbers with a built motor. I just been dicking around for so many years I finally crunched down and got 5 grand saved up so I been weighing my options.

If you just wanted 400hp, you can do that on the 1jz without having to change the internals so you can stick with that. The R154 should be able to handle that without problem but honestly I think if anyone can afford it they should look into getting the kit from www.abc-clutch.com/products/1-2JZ-BMW-gearbox-adapter-KIT it costs around 2500USD including shipping to the US. I don't work for them but bmw zf gearboxes are plentiful, cheap and good for holding a lot of power. If you're not going to keep the car for a while then it probably doesnt make sense getting and you could just stick with an R154 but if you're going to keep the car a while and will probably be upping the power then I DEFINITELY recommend it. Plus the guys over there are really helpful and would try to help you out with any problems you may have in your build. Don't do the RB's you mentioned, I love nissan but the 1jz is a better option, plus you get to circumvent the oil starvation issues that RB's have. Like you I actually wanted to have an rb25 s14 but after reading up a ton, a 1jz just makes the most sense, more reliable, can handle more power stock and is just a great engine to run.

+bmwm3man thanks for the added thought but I think I will end up going with a newer 370z 6 speed transmission they have proven to be quite strong and hold up to high hp and torque along with a Collins adapter plate, its about the most cost effective way to go seeing as you can find the transmissions for around $1200 without all the wear and tear of a R154 or any older transmissions. Adapter plate is running around $400.

+Raymon Alexander now you've taught me something there. Thanks a lot

FF MAYHEM some use stock if you go 2j a shit load of people use the stock one and still boost

stock ecu is good for 13 psi.. add an HKS fuel cut defencer and you can go higher.

Of course!

necessary

thats a little bit low but def still healthy as far as the toyota service manual would suggest. mine was between 178 and 183 across all 6.

Street Lethal Garage yea I noticed the manual did state that but so many mixed reviews also say with a cold compression test it will mark lower. Anything I should look for what would cause low compression? Thanks by the way, You earned my sub.

are you doing a wet or dry compression test? is there oil in the sump?

Street Lethal Garage it was a dry compression and I'm not to sure about the oil in the sump. It was at a shop and didnt ask about that.

if it was a motor you were looking to buy from a JDM dealer or something, then the sump was likely empty because they empty all of them before they ship them over. if i was you, i'd keep searching until you find a motor with at least 170+ across all 6, but thats just me, bud.

the bottom is modified as well. a piece of angle iron was welded in after i notched it so it would sit vertically even

who knows tbh.

Fuck yeah

On the older R154's from the MK3 supra and older x-chassis from japan, the shifter is not as long. but on the JZX100 and JZX110 engines the shifter is extended already. its known as a "remote shift" r154. or "tripod" r154. it's longer than the older ones.

www.jdmsource.ca

+Supranforever I order ALL of my engines from JDMSource

+Frankenslide simple question for you man , I read that with xcessive mount we need to play with the tunnel , is this true ? Or its fit nice

only the JZX110 engines came with electronic throttle. the simnple solution is to not buy that engine. you want a jzx100 engine. if the throttle body says "ETCS-i" stay away. ETCS is what you want. no "i" if its too late for that, get a non electronic TB from somewhere and then have your wiring guy fix your harness up properly\

inverness. crystal river area.

Buy this and install it. www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd126.htm

i mention in the video that mark panic did my wiring harness, as for the throttle body, you dont need to do anything with it, if you buy an engine that doesnt have Drive By Wire. The easiest way to tell, is on top of the throttle body, it will say ETSC-i. if it just says ETSC without the "i" then its good to go. another way to tell, is the non drive by wire ECU has 4 plugs and the DBW engine has 5 plugs on the ECU. Hope this helps.

I get my engines from JDM Source. Tell him Sean Chiccino sent ya.

@@Frankenslide Is that the one in Alberta Canada? It looks like they don't have any turbo vvti motors right now.

@@Grainsauce yes, thats the one, dont go by their websites inventory, you gotta call him. the dude is awesome to work with. He just doesnt update his site very often. every time ive ever called him he's had them in stock.

its kind've pointless tbh. i dont remember its exact purpose but if i recall correctly its for emissions. if you remove that thing you'll get compressor surge but it makes cool choo choo noises lol

Lol. So you think its just better to keep it and have it unplugged im guessing? Cause ive had some buddies say to remove the solenoid or whatever but compressor surge to me is usually a no go haha.

i wouldnt recommend compressor surge to anyone who intends to daily their car. or at all for that matter. its no good no matter how ya slice it tbh.

ive gotten that downpipe glowing hot quite a few times and they werent starting to break down or anything however, as ou can guess, anything exposed to extreme heat like that, over a long period of time, will def break down. I would recommend coming up with a better solution for sure. maybe some kind of heatshield or some heat wrap like for exhaust manifolds or something of the sort.

vvti has literally NOTHING to do with the sway bar clearance. the vvti and non vvti have the exact same oil pans. whoever told you that is very confused. 1jz and 2jz have the same size oil pans across the board and the stock s-chassis sway bar will block the JZ oil pan from resting where it needs to.

There's a load more torque from lower down in the vvti engine due to the differences in the design of the heads. Because of this the turbo spools far quicker and from what I have heard it's generally a more responsive engine

i want one.

Chay the fans are on a temp based sensor it’s called a fan controller You can get them at the auto parts store and you just wire them in. And yes, when doing the wiring harness, I had the Toyota’s water temp sensor send the ecu’s water temp reading to the Nissan cluster

@@Frankenslide thanks for the response! I watched your video about 8 times before finally getting my dream setup in my 4th s13. Your video helped so much with my 1jz build

Chay thanks man, glad I could help!

There is a gentleman named Mark Panic who lives out in the Pacific Northwest who does wiring harnesses. he's been doing my swap harnessed for 6 years and he's the man. www.panicwire.com for inquiries. or just email him at panicwire@gmail.com

also, the intercooler kit is just a mishimoto intercooler core and i purchased the 3" CX Racing "Universal Piping Kit" so it comes with a variety of different sections and bends and the fabrication work was done by LHT Performance in Pinellas Park, FL. i def dont recommend getting the black piping kit because in order to weld it up, you have to remove the paint. That's why you see the sections are black and some are regular silver where the welds are at. Soo yea, CX Racing Universal 3" Intercooler Piping Kit.

also, i recommend doing a 2.5" kit instead of the 3" kit if you're running stock turbo. I think having the 3" kit caused it to have a small bit of turbo lag on stock boost, but if you're going with an aftermarket turbo setup, then def go with the 3" kit.

Street Lethal Garage thx you for answering my questions I appreciate all the help :)

no problem dude

Ruben Hernandez rota grids

+lapped on paper, yes, it would effect the performance of the car in a track scenario where GRIP racing is involved. It would likely cause under steer in hard cornering an stuff like that. Drifting is another story, its still very controllable while drifting. This is my street car and i occasionally will be drifting it so i didnt worry too much about weight distribution. In short, yes, it will effect the balance of the car, but if you can look past that and wont be grip racing it, then you got nothing to worry about, really.

+Frankenslide Thanks a lot! Very nice build btw.

only the JZX110 engines comes with the drive by wire. if you dont want to do that, just make sure you buy a JZX100 engine. its very simple to source an engine that doesnt say etcs-i on the TB

Frankenslide thanks for replying. just curious cause for my vvti 2jz the etsc i tb doesn't open all the way. I did just find out that driftmotion is selling a dbw delete kit for cheap so I might end up doing that. Thanks bro.

it works just fine as long as you have a proper, sealed shroud and good fans that move a good amount of air.

i hammered at the tunnel with a 3 pound sledge for all of 5 minutes and barely put any effort in to it at all.. tbh you can probably fit it without any massaging.

Street Lethal Garage thanks for the information mate:)

So how did it go? Did you had to "tune" the tunnel?

stock toyota jzx100 ecu and wiring harness. the harness was converted by Mark Panic at Panic Wiring Solutions (Panic Wire)

16's are honestly best for the s13, especially the coupe lol

it's totally doable but tbh, if its going to be your daily driver, just put the motor in and do some bolt ons. you'll be plenty happy with how these cars perform with a stock 1jz in them. its a very light car, it will be fast, no doubt. 500hp in a daily driven S13 is kind've pointless. I mean, sure, its awesome, but you dont NEED all that. Just do a nice down pipe, a nice front mount setup and a solid 3" exhaust and the car will easily make 300-320whp. These cars FLY with that kind of power and the inline 6 torque is just fine. Expect to spend around 6-8.5k on your swap.. depending on how much you do yourself and how much of the work you pay to have done. My s13 in this video made 320whp and i didnt have anything crazy done, just what i mention here in the video and the car was an absolute blast to drive. it had traction issues as is.. adding 200 more whp, it wont hook up so you'll just spin tires all the time, unless you wide body it and put some proper tires on it, with an LSD and no crazy negative camber or anything. If you plan to have a flashy stance style car, then the bolt on route like i suggested is DEF the way you want to go. It's all preference, bud.. like i said, just do the bolt ons and if you find yourself wanting more, then add it later. make getting the car up and running and to a daily driveable state your top priority - THEN start thinking about more power.

Street Lethal Garage thanks man, once I get the project started, I'll hyu so you can see the progress

sounds good, mate. just have fun, thats all that matters.

i did a little but it wasnt really required. when i say a little, i spent like 5 mins banging on it with a 3 pound sledge.

If you hadnt, you dont think it would have rubbed at all or even under a load? I have basically the same exact setup going into my car.

couldnt tell ya. just hit it will a mallet a bit to be safe man. it very well could. i just took extra precautions cuz i didnt feel like taking my engine out again. it also creats easier access to the starter incase you need to change it

Ahh, agreed. Thanks for the reply man. Ill be doing my swap this weekend actually. So im just gonna bang it out a little for peace of mind.

Hey i have one more question. What did you do with the 240sx stock injector resistor? and did you need a different one for the 1jz?

i bou8ght the chase bays kit for the oem fuel pressure regulator.

180SX LSD and the driveshaft is an unknown. i bought it off a friend who had a 1jz s13. you can find many places like drive shaft shop or driftmotion to make you a driveshaft.

Frankenslide thanks!

It's the stock one still

+Frankenslide cheers bro

Wiring, cooling, swap mounts, drive shaft, and front mount intercooler should be all else you need other than the engine, trans, and ecu. Also some gauges of course.

@@ThePookybear56 and if i use the ECU from the 1JZ, will the engine start properly? All functions will work such as lights, front glass washer, etc... Or can i still use the ECU from the E36? Sry idk the right words for all car parts in english :/ Do u think i rly need some gauges? I want this for daily, so i would lile the interior to be original and simple without mods. Just the engine. Or u sugest i rly need them gauges?

IonePawPawing look at wiring specialties... Ive not done the swap I'm just doing research currently. Those functions should end up working if done right, they may not be plug and play but I believe that the e36 ECU can still be used to control those functions of they're not hard wired or able to be controlled by the jzx100 ecu

Aight. Apreciate the help! GL. ;)

IonePawPawing thanks homie! You too hopefully this won't be just a dream and I'll actually get her done someday!