1st Dive with our SeaLife Video Dive Lights (GoPro & Sea Dragon 2500F) 

Thank you

Thanks by now, we added a Olympus TG6 to the rig, which is probably the best point and shoot underwater camera for macro and close-ups.

Glad you enjoyed it! Now, 1.5 years later, we still love the lights. Planning on a video with a bit more in-depth info after using the SeaDragon setup for something like 100 dives :-) . (Sponsors welcome 😜)

@@DiveMonster Thanks!

No Red filter. We never use red filter. It makes absolutely no sense to reduce even more light from an already small camera sensor. With good video lights, you need no filter to start with. A red filter, or complete color-adjustment, can be also added in post production.

yes, it is totally different, when you can adjust the lights. specially when you also take pictures and macro shots. We use them mainly with a TG6, and the GoPro in the hot-shoe of the Tg-Housing You can bring the lights more to the front and can ankle them much better to the object. or bend them in that you get the "face" in a spot and the background remains darker.

Hi, We still use the same, just added the Sealife Flex Connect extensions, which make the whole rig ultra-flexible. We also added a TG-6 as we have so much fantastic macro life here, that it is almost a “must” to have here in the Philippines, even the TG-6 is in many ways already outdated, but still the best “point-and shoot” for macro”. Our GoPro is on top in the cold shoe of the TG-6. (a) We just use a wrist strap, from an underwater monopod. As this rig is not very heavy, it is no problem to hold it for an hour diving with one hand, or even have it dangling on the strap. (b) The Flex connect made a lot of things easier. Specially for smaller stuff, as the lights come more from the side. If the lights come straight from the same direction as your camera lens points, backscatter is more likely. We never use red-filter. GoPro have tiny sensors. No need to filter additional light with a filter in a low light condition. That reduces the overall quality a lot. Adding red in post production with some software (even with a simple red square layer on 25% opacity) is much easier, if the initial filmed material is with the maximum information of the sensor and not reduces by a dark red filter. make your shots in 2.7k or 4k and 60fps, if your computer can handle the formats. That way, you can zoom in quite a bit in post production and still get good results of smaller stuff. The 60fps enable you to slow down the video just a little bit, to get rid of “shakiness”, which may occur more easily with trying to record small stuff. The blue ringed octopus in this video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bf04wLU2sRQ.html) is recorded 2.7k and 60fps. Zooming in and slowing down made it an awesome shot, at least for us 😊 (c) Most important. HAVE FUN !!! I hope, that helps a little bit.

@@DiveMonster That helps a ton, thanks so much for sharing your insights!!

That is with 2. But it was our very first dive with lights, so we didn´t really have any clue, what we do, hehehe. If you look at our latest videos, you probably see quite some improvement. We still use the same lights and GoPro. just added a TG6 for close-up and macro: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bf04wLU2sRQ.html

Hello @Demotrend, no we didn´t use any filters on the GoPro. The whole point of the lights is, to bring the colors back, that there is no need for a red-filter. If you use an additional filter with the lights, the object where the lights shine on becoming red-ish. In some scenes (like with the spotted fin lionfish or the white eye moray eel), the lights were directly pointed at the fish. You can see the typical "green-gray" of the surrounding areas. It was our very first dive with the Sea Dragon 2500F, and of course we still need to learn a lot about its handling, but the lights are really fantastic, so far. :-)

@@DiveMonster Thank you!!