A 160 dyno jet is much larger than the equivalent keihn jet so you may have went up more than one size. DJ stage one instructions suggest going from keihn 155 to dyno jet 150. DJ 150 is larger than keihn 155. However I have 160 DJ jets with adjustable needles and a full exhaust system with single open muffler and all seems well. Never done a dyno run to see if it is spot on, but my assumption is that the previous owner had it done right. I have #38 pilot jets 2.75 turns out. I'd be concerned about the hotter plugs. They can cause damage at higher rpm from what I have read.
Thr new seats are turning up today with any luck, so hopefully it won't be long before I can sort them out, do a colour tune and get it back on the dyno. 😁
As long as the correction factor does not exceed 3% then it is valid. The DIN standard (70020) is a net HP because it requires a vehicle inlet and exhaust and cooling fan (if engine driven). SAE is a Gross HP reading meaning no requirement for vehicle exhaust, cooling fan and air intake system. Commonly called a Silly American Estimate. DIN is better because it has the requirement for for vehicle systems. EEC standard requires the engine to also run a representative load to the electrical system sufficient to run the engine (ignition fuel pumps fuel control etc.) Any of the correction factors can be applied to any dyno, all you will see is a phase shift up or down from the base curve generated. They all include humidity tables (which is why if the CF goes above 3% the results start to get a bit meaningless) Either a Humidity meter (which needs to be calibrated at the start of the test in a chamber) or Wet and Dry temperature readings and the relevant standard table are required to make the CF of any use. I looked at the ZZR carb parts exploded view and from what I can see the air screw operates on the pilot circuit. It would need an additional one to operate on the main circuit. The main jet screws into an emulsion tube which surrounds the needle and fits below the needle venturi you are questioning the wear status of. This is fed from a passage in the inlet throat of the carb body and this usually has a brass tube or plug fitted to accurately set the size. There look to be two on the ZZR carbs, one for the pilot circuit (I would guess lower left when looking at the inlet) and one for the main jet (in the centre I would guess) Pretty simple to find which one with the carbs off. If this is blocked even to a small degree, the engine will be very rich. To check if the needle venturi is worn, stick an old needle to a torch and hold the carb over a piece of paper. (I have machined the step off the one I use, so you get to a point where the needle is as big as the venturi orifice and will completely seal a round hole.) Then slowly lower the needle down and you should see a gradually closing circle of light on the paper. When the needle closes off the venturi there should be no light leaking through. If there is, part is worn. No light indicates the part is ok.
That's mega info, thank you matey. I must admit my knowledge just starts at the dynos printed graph that gets given to you once you've paid your money, not how it is all determined, so that's really interesting to read. Thank you. I'm pretty sure those seats have a problem, but from info I've been sent it seems.fairly straightforward to check and repair if needed 🤔 😁👍
The c model uses 140s and the D model uses the 155 mains if remember correctly. Its because of the bigger ram air on the D model. But I completely agree that the brass part in the carb is also worn out. With that said. Love the vids and good luck, cant wait for the next vid
D model cylinder 1 and 4 160 2 and 3 158 copied for reference. Thanks, mine is a D so that helps me from a starting point.....going from 4-2 to 4-1 so jet size should be slightly increased but gotta dive deep into it this winter and get it sorted for a dyno run in the spring.
About 10 years ago so memory is blurred,but striped some Keihen or mikuni carbs.To get the needle seats out I just put a bit of brass on top and pressed out by hand,intereference fit but not that tight.
Just a heads up. Dont get too focused on what jets are doing what at engine revs. It's not the revs that are important it's the throttle position. Hope you get it sorted.
they should just push out with your thumb once you remove the emulsion tube - on a Carb depending on which side of the Carb they are located the adjustor screw is either an air or fuel mixture screw. Lets hope that you get that dialled in fully :)
Hi Quicky, is a Dyno jet kit going to blow your budget, if not I can't recommend them enough. Please for the love of God check that the hotter plugs won't hole the top of your pistons. Good power on the Dyno, way more than I thought it was going to make 👍
Yeah probably.... a dyno jet kit ain't cheap and I should be able to get the stock stuff working well. I'm not after the max bhp I can get, I just want a properly fuelled reliable bike I can use. 😁
Hiya,don’t the needles engage in the arse end of the emulsion tube?If they do,then don’t the emulsion tubes just unscrew?Anyway I dream of having 130bhp.All the best.
Hi quicky the C models were restricted to 125bhp. The latter D models were full power. I’m guessing yours has the zx7r carb tops they are taller and derestrict them. Have enjoyed your videos had mine dynode years ago 130 at rear wheel but the chain was goosed so would have made more.
130bhp isn't a bad starting point and this bike isn't restricted, so with a little bit of fiddling sonics properly fuelled, we should see a bit more I reckon 😁👍
Ya didnt tell us ya washed it , that's a few horsepower right there ! ( btw on the "channel thing" Ive always wanted to have a go at sheet metal work , kinda like craig from doghouse customs While I'm ok on engines and lecky stuff I have NO clue about sheet metal work and seeing the way folks have been helping , I figures I might film me attempts and let folks guide me ! ... just the thought !)
Steve where did you get that Tshirt from fella. I need to get the diameter of my front forks on my CBF 600 sa to get the toll to knock the seal down any idea Mr quick lol
The tool I use is adjustable, so works over a range of size of forks... set of calipers would give you the diameter of the forks, then just get a seal driver which does that size 😁
I am too tight to buy a fork seal driver. On my CBF600 5n and my BMW GS I use a plastic pipe. It's the stuff for outside down commers e.g from the sink into the outside drain The CBF has 41 diameter forks. The oil seal is 39.3 at its smallest (there are tapered seals) and about 52.5 outside diameter. The steel ring inside all the rubber is about 49 to 50. It's on this steel ring that you drive the seal in. The pipe (BandQ) is 46 inner and 50 outer so it sits nicely on the steel ring. Make sure you cut the pipe at right angles so it sits flush all around the seal. Make sure you clean the cut so no bits of shards are there. Use a rubber mallet on the top of the pipe to slowly tap it in. You will feel it seat. Remember the wire circlip thing (been there done that). The dust seal is much easier to fit but the pipe will do it.
hello Quick just a idea for your graphic on your bike why don't you put on of your logos on the side fairing's if it was me ill use the logo you got on your t-shirt in the video. all the best Ivan
On a (wink) closed or (wink) private (cough, nudge) road. Failing that, reverse the video when you release it and, hey presto, an autobahn... (wink,wink)
