1Zpresso JX-Pro how to Zero your grinder. 

You are very welcome, thank you also for the positive comments. Please feel free to message me if you need any help.

Haha thats the best.

I received my JX Pro in the mail today and it was a few clicks short of zero. I followed this tutorial several times and got it pretty close twice, and on three twice and on two once. One thing I realize I was doing wrong was not letting go of the burrs before screwing on the adjustment dial. It may not help you, but figured I'd mention it.

I cannot get mine to zero on anything other than 3.5. The only way to get it to change is to loosen the thumb nut under the dial that shows measurements (which then loosens the whole deal). Any advice? Thanks!

​@@davidsmith9yes that's correct, that's the point of the thumb screw, it's function is to make the fine calibration adjustments (hence ring below it has the indents around it).

​@@fonzoo after I figured it all out I felt like a dumb-dumb 😂 I just wanted that thing to be tight because I have OCD. All good, thanks!

Mihajlo you are very welcome. I agree that the information on the 1Zpresso website is a little confusing. Actually they updated the information about one year ago, it was even more confusing before that haha

You are very welcome. I hope that the video helped you. This is a problem that quite a few people have when they first get their JX-Pro grinder. I had the same problem and the advice that i got from the 1Zpresso FAQ page did not really help me. 1zpresso.coffee/grindsetting/ This is not really a total solution to the zeroing problem, Its kind of a hack if anything. It works for me every time and it has worked for a lot of other people, but some people have also said that they still can not get their grinder to zero using my method. 1Zpresso talk about the knurled nut adjustment in their FAQ page in formation. Like i said i could not get mine to adjust to zero using their knurled nut method, but it might work for others. Anyway good luck.

That's what i like to hear.

Hi Michael. You are very welcome, I am happy if my video helped you. I agree that the way that 1Zpresso explain their method is a little confusing. I think that some people get a little confused about what the zero setting/point actually is. 1Zpresso do state that the zero point/starting point is when you turn the adjustment dial all the way clockwise and the zero point is when the clank handle wont turn anymore. The way that they explain the thumb nut adjustment could be a little more detailed and helpful. For instance, maybe explain how many clicks of the thumb nut you need for each number that you are out by, that would be a little more helpful. I heard that it was 1 click for each number on the adjustment dial, but i dont think that there are that many clicks available to open on the thumb nut for each number on the dial. Anyway i tried their method a few times and at first i could not get it to work. However their method of opening the knurled thumb nut does actually work in a round about way. The way that i found worked, was if i start with the adjustment dial with the 0 at the top, under the big O (the same as in my video) Then turn the adjustment dial all the way until the burrs are closed. If the number lands on a random number, like 9 or 5 ect. Take the adjustment dial back off and open the knurled thumb nut 1 click. then put the adjustment dial back on (make sure to start with the 0 at the top under the big O like last time, for reference) then tighten the adjustment dial until its closed again. This usually gets you to the 0 number, or very close. If its still not at the 0 number, tale off the adjustment dial and open the knurled thumb nut 1 more click and then screw the adjustment dial back on (again make sure that the 0 is at the top under the big O for reference). Sometimes it takes a couple of goes and a couple of clicks to open the thumb nut to get there, but it does actually work. Also, i did experiment and it only worked for me if i always start with the 0 number at the top to start.

Thank you. Its a little it and miss, but 9 times out of 10 it works for me. I tried the 1zpresso method with adjusting the thumb nut, but i just could not get it.

@@mightymightyironhead Just wanted to tell you, 2yrs later needed this info again, and randomly found your video again as well as my comment. Still the best short to the point explanation!

Really happy to hear that it helped. I had another user saying that it did not work for his Red Dot version, so its really interesting that it did work for you. Have a great weekend.

Hi Leah. Thats great news that it works for you. There is also another method that 1Zpresso recommends. They say that you can adjust the knurled thumb nut if the adjustment dial is not landing at zero. But i tried this a few times and it did not really work well for me. The only way that i could get this method to work, is if i started with the dial at the zero number at the top and below the big O. Then tightened the adjustment dial until the burrs were closed (zero point) if the number was not at zero, take the adjustment dial off and open the knurled thumb nut one click, put the dial back on, making sure that the zero number is at the top again, below the big O and tighten it again, this should take you to zero on the dial. If not take off the dial and open the nut one more click. This can also work to get you to the zero number, but only if you make sure that the always start with the adjustment dial zero number at the top each time you put it back on.

@@mightymightyironhead I couldn't umderstand how to do it that way, it was just easier to follow your video.

@@leahthompson1 thats great Leah, i am honestly happy that it helps you. My method is only a work around. I keep asking 1Zpresso if they can be a little more clear about their method, because its something that quite a few people seem to get confused about. Anyway have a great weekend Leah.

Thought I'd give you a little update... I've cleaned my grinder several times, without removing the inner burr and each time I've been able to get it back to zero by following your steps. But this time I removed the inner burr to clean it and your video no longer works for me. To get it back to zero I had to start with the single ball bearing on the knurled thumb nut at around 2 o'clock rather than at 12 o'clock. My shots are also tasting off. Wish I'd never cleaned it.

@@leahthompson1 really sorry that you are having issues Leah. Sorry Leah its early and i did not wake up properly yet. Just to verify, you have cleaned your grinder several times but you have never taken out the or removed the inner burr and this is the first time that you have removed the inner burr? I also have this happen to me sometimes after i have cleaned my grinder and i use my method, sometimes i have to try a couple of times to get it back to zero again. Its very confusing because why would it be any different if you follow the same steps each time. When this happens, i usually just use the number that i have at zero point as a reference until i get the number back to the 0. 1Zpresso also state this on their FAQ page. Sometimes the individual components of the grinder might not have been tightened up properly when you have taken them apart to clean the grinder, so make sure that they are screwed on properly, especially the top ring. Remember that each part runs counter, so careful not to loosen them when you think that you are tightening them. I honestly can not think of any reason why your shots would taste off, because of the grinder. The only thing that i can think of is if you have ground too fine or too course, but that would be very obvious. So can i please ask you, when you say that your shots are tasting off, what do you mean by off? Are the shots tasting bitter, are they under extracted or over extracted? Personally if i have a shot that does not taste right i start by looking at the coffee beans, are they fresh or stale? Even character of coffee beans will taste different the longer that you keep them due to de gassing. So check the roast date for your beans. Have you changed your beans recently, is the roast level different, even the same beans bought from the same shop with the same label might now be the same beans that you purchased last month. The change in flavor of your shots could also be down to your machine, its always a good idea to descale and clean an Espresso machine regular, this can often be the cause. If its none of these things, its possible that your grind size is too fine and this is resulting in an over extraction, you can check this by looking at the pressure and timing for your shots. There are a few other reasons why your shots can taste off, so please let me know what you mean by off and maybe we can get to the bottom of the issue.

You are very welcome.

Эта информация действительно очень полезна и, надеюсь, поможет многим сэкономить время и нервы. По крайней мере, мне она точно помогла. Ещё раз спасибо!

Thank you very much for your kind comments. Actually if you only want the grinder strictly for Pour over, the 1Zpresso Q2 is the cheapest option. The Q2 is really marketed towards Pour over, Aeropress and French Press, its quite light and it does a very good job and is very consistent even at the more course level, however it does not hold as many beans (15 - 20g) as the JX. Most people choose the Q2 as their first "proper" grinder as perhaps an upgrade from a ceramic burr grinder like the Hario grinders and i would say that the Q2 is about on a par with the Timemore C2. However the Q2 does not have any fine adjustments, the steps are quite large, so its not really any good for Espresso. The Q2 has 38mm Pentagonal (Pentagonal burrs are better at medium and courser grind sizes) stainless steel burrs, 10 numbers on the adjustment dial and 30 clicks per rotation and is 25 microns. The JX is also really considered a Pour over, Aeropress and French press grinder. But the JX has a bigger grind range and can actually grind Turkish fine grind size. The JX has 48mm Stainless steel burrs, its got 10 numbers on the adjustment dial, 30 clicks per rotation and 3 clicks (fine adjustments) between each number. The JX can hold (30 - 35g) and is 12.5 microns. I personally would say that the Q2 is an excellent little grinder and is really good for Pour over and medium grind range. However JX as slightly better than the Q2 when it comes to grinding for Pour over, Aeropress and French Press. Its got better fine adjustment than the Q2 and this can shape the flavor of the coffee in the cup, its also able to grind for Espresso if you are willing to use a pressurised porta filter, the Q2 can grind quite fine, but its got pretty big steps. Now onto the JX-Pro. The pro is actually very good at all grind sizes and all brew types. Its got a much bigger grind range than the Q2 and bigger than the JX. The Pro also has more fine adjustments than the JX, so its great for Espresso also, even if you are using a more pro Espresso machine with a none pressurised porta filter, the Pro can handle that with out any problems. I always recommend that customers go for the JX-Pro, because its an amazing all round grinder and is an excellent grinder for the price. With the JX-Pro you wont have to upgrade your grinder if you choose to start experimenting with Espresso. You will struggle with the Q2 and also the JX. However if you never want to experiment with Espresso (none pressurised) the JX is an excellent grinder to choose. If you want the most basic and still want a very nice little grinder that is really designed for Pour over, Aeropress and French press (and maybe want to upgrade to a grinder with more adjustment range and a bigger burrs set later) the Q2 is the cheapest option.

@@mightymightyironhead Thanks for the great info and a VERY helpful video! What about the new J-Max? It has even finer steps than JX-Pro.

Thats excellent. Really happy that it worked for you.

Same!

@@socorroperez8618 I worked it out. The threaded washer with the ball on it doesn't need to be screwed down tight. If you do this it'll land on 8-9 every time. You can keep it a bit looser and it will work. See 2:40 for the correct part I'm referring to.

@@niallms83 thanks man! Super helpful, had the same problem except was at 2 instead of 8.

Hi good morning. Sorry for the delay in replying. Can you please explain a little more about the problems that you have. 1) Can you tell me more about the unusual clicks you have after calibrating? Where does the sound come from? is the sound coming from the the adjustment dial? Is the clicking sound different to the normal clicking sound that you would get? Do you only get this unusual sound after calibrating the grinder? 2) Can you explain a little more about the burr shaft not moving smoothly. If you have not seriously damaged the burr shaft at any time, the shaft should turn very smoothly. The way that the grinder is designed means that the burr shaft is fixed very firmly and wont move or develop a wobble over time. There are a couple of things to look out for that might be the reason for both your issues. If the burr shaft is not moving smoothly make sure that the burrs are not at the zero point or nearly at the zero point. Because the burrs can show some resistance even if they are open a few clicks, so please check that. Another reason why you might get some resistance with the burr shaft, is a build up of coffee particles on and around the shaft or where the shaft fits into the body of the grinder, so make sure that you clean and maintain the grinder regularly. There is a small round disc that sits on top of the spring, this can create problems if you dont replace the disc the correct way after cleaning. The disc has a small ridge around the center and this ridge needs to be facing up to fit into the space where the bearings are on the shaft of the grinder. Also the spring needs to be the correct way when you replace it. Both these things can cause problems with the adjustment dial and might cause problems with the burr shaft. Another thing to be very careful with is over tightening the burrs when you adjust the adjustment dial to get to the zero point, its very easy to over adjust and this can lock the burrs up. I always adjust to the zero point then i open the burrs a couple of clicks before i start to adjust for grinding. If you lock the burrs up, open the adjustment dial and then push down on the top of the burrs shaft until you hear a click, this will release them.

Hi, yes i understand, there are a couple of ways to know when your burrs are fully closed. One is the obvious thing, where you turn the adjustment dial all the way clockwise until it wont turn anymore, look at the burrs and they will be fully closed. The second way is to do the first method until you feel that the dial stops turning, then put the grinding handle on and slowly spin the handle, if it spins, the burrs are not fully closed. If the handle turns, the burrs are still open.

@@davidsmith9 yes you need to assemble your JX-Pro regularly. Tighten the thumb nut up all the way as usual, if you you don’t tighten the thumb nut all the way it won’t be in the correct starting position. Then put the adjustment dial on and also turn it all the way until you feel tightened and resistance (finger tight) then slow down and tighten the rest of the way. My method is not the same as the 1Zpresso method. When I have tightened the thumb nut and also the the adjustment dial, I then open the adjustment dial a few clicks (or until you can move the bottom of the burr disc with your free hand) that allows me to slightly adjust the position either left or right, then I close the adjustment dial each time to see if the adjustment dial has moved to the correct position.

1Zpresso changed the JX-Pro slightly a couple of years ago when they changed the red dot to the grey dot on the top ring. If i remember correctly they also slightly changed the ball bearings on the surface of the top ring, that the adjustment dial sits on top and this makes a clicking sound when you turn the adjustment dial. I don't remember 1Zpresso mentioning anything about these ball bearings changing anything else (apart from the sound) so i really think that there is no difference between the earlier JX-Pro and the most recent units. If your grinder is exactly the same as my grinder (mine is about 3 years old) it should be easy to calibrate the grinder and get the 0 number into the correct position under the grey dot. I have a feeling that you might not have tightened the thumb nut completely when you have reassembled your grinder. This is something that can easily happen if you dont push the burrs up all the way when you are tightening the thumb nut. When the burrs are not pushed up completely, the thumb nut wont turn all the way, so i think that its not calibrated properly. So check that first and make sure that you really push the bottom of the burrs up completely and turn the thumb nut all the way. Another things to check is that the outer burrs are closed properly and the top ring is also closed properly, because both of these things can prevent you from calibrating the adjusting dial properly. Too be honest there is nothing else that can really prevent the adjustment dial from being calibrated. So if its nothing obvious like these things, then i honestly think that you are just not calibrating the grinder properly. When you have made sure that all the parts are properly tight and the burrs are in completely and the thumb nut is tightened properly. Take the adjustment dial and place it on the burr shaft with the 0 number at the top under the grey dot. This will give you a consistent starting point each time, then turn the adjustment dial all the way until you feel enough resistance. Usually when you start with the 0 number like that, it lands at around the number 7 or 8. if this is the case take the adjustment dial back off and open the thumb nut one or two clicks, then replace the adjustment dial, again with the 0 number at the top and tighten again, this should be all that you need to do to get the 0 number at the correct position.

Yes i know all that and i mention that in the video. I use the flat side of the burr shaft as a reference and i also place the adjustment dial back onto the burr shaft with the 0 number at the top, again as a reference. For my grinder when i do this and turn the adjustment dial all the way until the burrs are fully closed, the 0 number lands very close to the zero point. Then i open the adjustment dial just enough to actually move the burrs shaft with my fingers and i turn either clock wise or anti clockwise slightly, this brings the 0 number around into the zero position. This means that i don't have to always take the adjustment dial off completely, adjust the thumb nut, screw the adjustment dial back on and check if the 0 number is correct and if it is not correct, do it all over again until it is in the correct position, sometimes three or four times. This works every time for me. If you are happy with the regular way of taking the adjustment dial off and adjus6ting the thumb nut, then replacing the adjustment dial, that's great, either way works.

Happy to help. Thanks for the feedback.

Welcome.

Hi Adi. thank you for your message. I am really happy that it helped you. If you follow this method and the adjustment dial is still a little away from zero. Loosen the adjustment dial again, about 2 full rotations. If you look down at the burr shaft between the adjustment dial, you will see the flat edge of the burr shaft on the left. Use your fingers and turn the burr shaft a few millimeters either left or right (depending on if you are over the zero towards number 1 or under the zero towards number 9) Then tighten your adjustment dial again. This should get you back to zero again and you wont have to take your grinder apart again.

You are very welcome.

Sorry for the late reply. No its not normal for the adjustment dial to change after grinding. You say that "so I set it at 1 full 5 8.." Sorry can you explain this a little more? 1 full rotation and then 5 is 15. Thats about mid range for Espresso. But i am not sure what you mean by 1 full 5 8. Do you mean 18? and then you noticed that the adjustment dial moved 3 full numbers back to the number 5? Then after trying again the adjustment dial moved another 5 full numbers back to the 0 number? The adjustment dial should not be moving at all, especially 8 whole numbers, thats nearly a full rotation. The grind adjustment settings can change very slightly if you dont clean your burrs, there can be a build up of coffee powder inside the burrs and this can move the adjustment settings very slightly. I have never had this happen to me, but i have head other people talk about this. But even this will not move your adjustment dial nearly a full rotation, if anything this will only change the grind settings a tiny amount and is not really noticeable. I would recommend that you check that you have assembled the grinder properly if you have disassembled the grinder to clean it, make sure that all of the parts are put back correctly. The baring disc needs to be put back the correct way up, the spring needs to be the correct way up. You really need to push the burrs from the bottom to get the thumb nut turned all the way closed, if the thumb nut is not turn all the way and is closed you want be able to calibrate your grinder properly. Make sure that all the component parts are tight enough, the bottom burrs and especially the top ring. Sometimes the top ring can be loose and this can also effect the adjustment dial. These parts be tight enough, but dont over tighten, because they will be difficult to get back off.

Thank you. Hope that it helped you

You are very welcome Greg.

No worries. Hope it helps.

Hi Justin. The only ways to get the number to the starting position is by either taking the adjustment dial off and turning the thumb nut a couple of clicks to open it, then replacing the adjustment dial, this should allow you to turn the adjustment dial that little bit extra that you need to bring the number around to the starting position. This is the 1Zpresso method and works very well. Use this link to the 1Zpresso Blog page 1zpresso.coffee/calibration/ Then scroll down to the section called Calibration of Top Adjustment The method that i use, is if your number is stopping on 9, just open the adjustment dial again, maybe a couple of numbers, just enough that the burrs can move. You can check this by either using you hand to turn the burrs at the bottom of the grinder, or turn the top of the burr shaft, if it turns freely, your burrs are open. When your burrs are open, use your free hand to slightly turn the burrs clockwise slightly, then turn the adjustment dial again to close it, the 9 number should have moved further into the starting position. If you still dont have the number 9 into the starting position, you need to loosen the adjustment dial slightly again and turn the burrs slightly again, until it is in position.

I sent you a message on the other video. Hope that explanation helps.

@@mightymightyironhead Hi, I have the same problem, ended up on 0.5, what do I do?

@@michub99 Hi. If you have ended on 0.5 you could just count the 0.5 as extra. What i mean is, just use the 0.5 as your 0 number and add the .5 to your grind setting. Or you could adjust the thumb nut as 1Zpresso advises. If you dont know what the thumb nut is or how to adjust it. Its the small disc with the small ball baring underneath, the second part that you take off after the adjustment dial. Turn the thumb nut one click and then put the adjustment dial back on and you should be at the 0 number.

Hi Loodi. If you got to 1 click before 9, try taking the adjustment dial back off and open the knurled thumb nut ( the small round disc under the adjustment dial) one click, then put the adjustment dial back on. This is what 1Zpresso recommends that you do to get the Zero number. If it still does not get the Zero number, Take it back off and turn one more click. I personally could obly get this method to work if i always started with the 0 lined up with the big O at the top when i start to screw the adjustment dial on, each time. It gives you a good start guide.

@@mightymightyironhead Hi! Thanks for the response! What i meant by "1 click before 9" is that the zero setting is just right at the tiny dot before 9. That's just a minor thing, turns out i didn't align the flat part properly. When i align it properly, it got me to 9.. so I turn the 'little dial' about 9 times to make it to zero. Thank you for your help! and sorry for my English. it's not my first language 😅

@@johanneslaudi6184 Please dont apologise, your English is very good. Yes the burr shaft can move a little when you are tightening the adjustment dial back up. Its not so easy to keep your fingers on the burrs at the bottom while you are dialing the adjustment dial back on. I am not 100% sure about how many clicks you need to turn the thumb nut for each number that is out. I heard that it is one click for one number out. But i dont think that there are 10 clicks on the thumb nut. Anyway i am really happy that you got a good result.

I was on 9 and regardless of what I tried i couldn't get it closer than 2 or 3 using the normal collab technique. I would run out of thread. I had to rotate the sliding column 180 degrees (so dot is facing opposite end) and then that brings me to a number far closer to zero as a starting point (with everything tightened), then from there I can perform the normal calibration and I have enough threads to bring it to zero.

Hi Ashwin. The calibration can be a little tricky for the JX-Pro. 1Zpresso did update this information on their website to explain how to adjust the thumb nut to calibrate the adjustment dial, but this information can still be a little confusing, because they are not clear about how many clicks you need to turn the thumb not for each number that you want to adjust. What i always do when i reassemble my JX-Pro after cleaning is 1) Make sure that all the body parts are tight (not over tight, just not loose in any way) this includes the outer burrs and the top ring. Also makes sure that the spring and the flat baring caove (silver disc that fits on top of the spring) is replaced the correct way around. 2) The place your inner burrs into the body. 3) Place the other small parts into the top of the grinder. The sliding column (the part with the very thin threads) has a small grey dot on the bottle, place this into the grinder with this dot below the larger grey dot on the top ring, then place the other part into the grinder. 4) Use your free hand to push the burrs from the bottom and tighten the thumb nut until it wont turn any more. This is making sure that you grinders burrs are closed and at zero point. 5) When i get to this point, i place my adjustment dial with the 0 number also starting right below the grey dot on the adjustment dial and then also use my other hand to push the burrs up while i am tightening the thumb nut. 6) After i have done that. I next turn the burr shaft until the side that is flat (the burr shaft has a round side and a flat side) until the flat side is level (vertical) on the left side of the grey dot (grey dot is above, the flat edge of the burrs is below that and on the left side looking down at the grinder). 7) When i have the burrs with the vertical line on the left and below the grey dot on the top ring. I then place the adjustment dial onto the grinder, also with the 0 number starting right below the grey dot on the top ring, that i push the burrs from the bottom with my spare hand and and tighten the adjustment dial until its tight (do not over tighten the adjustment dial) just tight enough. 8 At this point, you might be lucky and get the 0 number at the starting position. If you are not at the starting position, you can follow the 1Zpresso guide from their website here: 1zpresso.coffee/calibration/ However as i said before, some people find this guide a little confusing. What i do if my 0 number is not at the starting point is loosen the adjustment dial a little bit ( just enough to be able to turn the burr shaft freely) without taking the adjustment dial off. Then i turn the burrs with my other hand a little bit, either left or right, depending if the 0 number is before the grey dot (maybe turn the burrs a little bit to the right) or after the grey dot (maybe turn the burrs a little bit to the left) each time i move the burrs a tiny bit i then tighten the adjustment dial quickly and see how far the number has moved. If the number is still not at the starting point i just loosen the adjustment dial again a couple of number and adjust the burrs a tiny bit more. Usually this is very quick and works very well. Please note that if the 0 number is quite far away from the grey dot starting position (maybe at 6 oclock ect) you will have to obviously turn the burrs a little more to adjust.

Please check out another video i made about the adjustment for the JX-Pro. At 8:11 i show how i adjust the 0 number by moving the burrs with my free hand. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O1det-2K8pQ.html

@@mightymightyironhead Thank you so much for the detailed information. I will try this and let you know how it goes this week! Thank you again

@@ashwindz no problem, you are very welcome. Sorry for the long winded information, its not so easy to explain without explaining each step. Good luck and please let me know if you need any more help.

Hi Adam. Definitely made a difference. I actually deal with 1Zpresso and a lot of the grinders i sell are not set to zero in the factory, i have quite a few customers telling me that their grinder is set to an odd number (with the burrs fully closed) when they take it out the box, something like 9, or 5 ect I did not include it in this video, but i also tested this out a few times by kind of randomly moving the parts to other positions and the number landed on different numbers, like 5 ect so it seems to work. I also had a few customers who watched this clip and they also told me that they tried it and it worked for them. So hopefully its not just a fluke. I am really interested how you can get your grinder to zero every time, even after taking it apart to clean, thats very interesting.

@@mightymightyironhead That is indeed strange. Btw, if I may call on your expertise, mine has developed a slight wobble in the upper bearing, which creates an opposing wobble below at the burrs. Have you seen this issue before? I can’t imagine how to fix it since the bearings don’t appear to be easily replaceable.

@@manchovie please let me have little while, i will have a word with 1Zpresso about it. I am quite surprised that the burrs have shifted, because they are really securely fixed in the body. that's part of the appeal of having a metal body on a grinder. It could be the baring ring, but even then i would think that the baring ring is pretty durable. Too be honest Adam, there are only a few parts to this grinder than might cause problems. The spring can cause problems if it is not the correct way around, the disc that fits on top of the spring needs to be the correct way around, damaging the adjustment nut threads can cause slipping while dialing in over time, The burrs also become dull or "seasoned" over time, this can be evident in the grind. However none of these things would made the burrs develop a wobble of even move in the shaft, as i said before, they burr shaft is very securely fixed and i have honestly never heard of this problem before. Actually you can get replacement parts from 1Zpresso for all their grinders, they do sell all the components that make up their grinders, including the baring ring, however its obviously best to figure out if this is your problem before ordering the part.

@@mightymightyironhead Thanks for taking the time to reply and taking an interest. I actually emailed Chandler at 1zpresso about it a couple of days ago and included some videos and I’m sure I’ll hear back after the weekend. It’s like the bearing is no longer centered, so you are probably right, it’s the ring around the bearing that is the issue. There’s a stable fulcrum at the bottom bearing and when the cup is attached a quite visible wobble. Enough to affect espresso grind quality. I can pm you the videos if you are curious. (I wouldn’t mind a sanity check.) Btw i have two JX Pros for home and work. The burrs are different between the June and October 2020 manufacture dates. Same design but more matte material on the newer and they feel a tiny bit less sharp to the touch and aren’t as aggressive, so they are easier to turn but take significantly longer to grind. Have you noticed this?

@@manchovie Honestly its no problem Adam, i am happy to try and help, also its always good for me to get some feedback from customers who use the product, its a learning process. Chandler is very nice and he is always willing to help, he is usually pretty quick to reply, i have also sent him a personal message about your problem, so i am sure that we will hear back from him soon with some information and hopefully a quick solution. I think that its a process of elimination with this problem, like we have discussed, there are obvious things that it can not be, like the removable parts that you take out when you clean the grinder. The burrs shaft would have to be misaligned to create a wobble. That is pretty difficult because the burr shaft goes all the way through the body and is then fixed into place at the top by the baring ring and the adjustment dial, so its probably not moving at the top. I am wondering if at any point you have removed the top burrs from the shaft, because there is a kind of secure ring that fits into the space between the burr shaft and the burrs to secure the burrs in place. This ring is what the spring sits on top of. I suspect that this can become damaged over time because its only quite small, maybe even get displaced, wear down or shift over time, or not put back in properly if it has been taken out at any point. Adam i would be very happy if you want to share your video with me, probably easier to message me on my Facebook page and i can add you on Messenger facebook.com/1zpressometacoffee

Yes it could be possible. I am not that familiar with the Red dotted JX-Pro. Its sounds like the internals are quite different though. Its strange though, because i have had quite a few customers telling me that this method works for them and i use it all the time and it gets me to either zero or near enough. I have tried the method that 1Zpresso recommend on their webpage and tried to adjust the knurled nut 1, 2 or 3 clicks, but i have never had any success with that method. I should have also included in this video where i just put the internals back inside the grinder in a random way and i get to a random number every time, then i use this method and get to zero right away. Too be honest, even i am scratching my head over this haha.

Sorry its not working for you, it does not work all the time. This is the link to the 1Zpresso webpage that explains how to calibrate to the zero number by adjusting the knurled thumb nut.....1zpresso.coffee/calibration/

You said that "They (1Zpresso) define the zero point not at a bottomed out position (burrs fully closed) but from were you start to feel resistance, that is the zero point" like you, i am not saying that you are wrong, but I would be interested where you got that information, do you have a link to this information that i can see? I have been dealing with 1Zpresso for about 4 years now and i have never seen any information where 1Zpresso are stating that you don't need to fully close the burrs to get the zero point. I have also talked to my agent from 1Zpresso many many times and i always ask them about any tips that they could share with me that would make using their grinders more easy, because lets face it, their online information has never been the easiest to follow, but again they have never said that you don't need to fully close the burrs to get the zero point. There is an argument that i often hear, that "you should never fully close the burrs, because the burrs will be touching when you grind". In my opinion, this is ok and up to the person who is using the grinder. But it does not really hold up when you think about it. Because if you turn the adjustment dial properly (until you feel resistance) and don't over turn or force the adjustment dial too tightly, the burrs wont touch. Also its the spring in the grinder getting tight, not the burrs touching. Also you still have the ability to actually calibrate the adjustment if the 0 number is not in the starting position, so again no danger of the burrs touching. Another thing to remember is that even when you burrs are fully closed and at the closed position, you are never going to grind anything, you need to open the burrs quite a few numbers before you get to the Turkish grind size, so again your burrs wont be touching. I have had three or four customers who have had an issue where they have locked up their burrs. They have either aggressively turned the adjustment dial to try and get the 0 number into position, instead of calibrating the grinder, or in one case, they tried to actually turn the grind handle the wrong way when the burrs were fully closed. I have just looked again at my manuals for all the 1Zpresso grinders and they dont mention that they define the zero point not at a bottomed out position (burrs fully closed) but from were you start to feel resistance, that is the zero point, like you stated. In the JX-Pro manual they do state under the user instructions: 1) To begin, turn the adjustment dial clockwise until it is at its tightest position. The number marked on the dot is the starting point (i think that this might be what you are referring to?). Please note, the number my not be 0. If you wish it to be you can calibrate the dial as demonstrated in the calibration guide below". 2) From the starting point, simply move the adjustment dial counter clockwise to your preferred grind setting. They also mention again later in the Assembly guide: 6) Attach the adjustment dial by screwing clockwise until finger tight, calibrating the adjustment dial. So you can see how confusing their grinder guide is.

@@mightymightyironhead wrote a reply but don't know if it posted, so sorry if this is redundant. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_REIvkf0Oo0.html About 5;45 into that video. Pretty much what the 1zpresso states directly from their website.

Hi sorry for the late reply, RU-vid really dont indicate when i have a message sometimes. Too be fair, i dont say in my video that you need to bottom out the adjustment dial, nore do i saqy that you need to turn the adjustment dial until you can not turn it any further, that would be really stupid, because you would lock up the burrs and jam the adjustment dial. I am also saying that when you are adjusting for the zero point (0 number in the adjustment dial) that you need to tighten the adjustment dial until you feel enough resistance and then stop turning. Some people like to do that and then open the adjustment dial a click or two because they think that the burrs are touching when the adjustment dial is this much closed, but thats another conversation. At around 5:40 he also states that 1Zpresso "say that the zero point is when you feel "some resistance" so i actually agree with what both 1Zpresso say and what he is saying, but saying that you need to stop when you feel some resistance is pretty confusing, because you start to feel some resistance around 4 or 5 numbers before the adjsutment dial becomes tight enough to stop the grind handle from moving, so technically anything less and the burrs are still open. Also he also does not indicate where 1zpresso say this, or have a link to anything 1Zpresso say this. I actually have the manual for the JZ-Pro (and other 1Zpresso grinders) and they dont say this anywhere in the manuals that i have. This is all the information from the JX-Pro manual about the calibration of the adjustment dial and how tight it should be. I wrote some of this before, but i missed a couple of things out, so this is pretty much everything that they say about the adjustment dial: Adjust the grind setting: Move the adjustment dial clockwise to make the grinds finer and shift the dial counterclockwise to make the grinds courser. 1) To begin, turn the adjustment dial clockwise until it is at its tightest position. The number marked by the dot is the starting point. Please note, the number may not be 0. If you wish it to be, you can calibrate the dial as demonstrated in the calibration guide below. Then in the Assembly they state: 6) Attach the adjustment dial by screwing it clockwise until finger-tight. Calibrating the adjustment dial. In the section called Calibrating the adjustment dial, they state: 3) Due to the difficulty in ensuring consistency in tightness when securing the knurled thumb nut, it is common for the starting point of the adjustment dial to be around two or more clicks out. Then in instructions they state: 1) If, after reassembly, the dot is at the zero point when the adjustment dial is in its tightest position, the adjustment dial is correctly calibrated.

Hi Michael. Sorry for any problems you might have with the video, I am looking at making a better video, with steps and shot from a better angle. Sorry i am a little confused about what you wrote "I didn't have the burrs locked and unscrewed the thread post that the calibration piece screwed onto".? When you say "burrs locked" do you mean the burrs fully closed (zero point)? and when you say "thread post that the calibration piece screwed onto" are you talking about the burr shaft that goes through the middle of the grinder and sticks out the top?