Spoiler Saver & Riddle A lady with pink hair, pink clothes, pink shoes, pink hat, pink carpet and a pink dog lives in a pink bungalow. What colour are her stairs?
this should be a standard practice for almost every electronics you buy. just open the unit and slap thermal pad along with heatsink on any ic looking chip and your electronics will thank you. I've seen way too many manufacturers cutting corners by not placing heatsinks on chips which gets seriously hot during workload.
That would prolong the life but it would still die. People who have it on max, have it on max for hours on end. The heatsink would become heat soaked from no air flow and the chip would die like before as the AL would also need help. Who ever ends up owning it should be told to use it at 80% at most if they don't want E-waste.
Cheers Steve, very similar to the DAB radios in the past, love faults like that. Even Stuart (the sender) mentioned that he thought it would be the audio chip at fault 👍
When you have a datasheet, first thing should be to check all Voltages on the supply. In the datasheet is the pins that starts with VDD. This chip in particular uses a separate voltage supply to drive the speakers so it has VDDL and VDDR to check as well as Digital Voltage. Also VDDR and VDDL have their own ground which might not be the same as the rest of the board. GNDR and GNDL are the grounds.
So would VCC be the power signal which would switch the amp on by powering the input side of the amp? this is common with alot of the TDA amplifier modules
@@tyronenelson9124 this has probably a Class D amplifier, so it would just drive the speakers through internal MOSFETs using power directly from the VDDR and VDDL, that is why It can have a different voltages for the speakers. Also, MOSFETs are very energy efficient hence the lack of any heatsink other than the PCB itself.
Cheers Kip, it was a nice fault/perfect fix. Not too time consuming either. I have had similar faults in the past on DAB radios, so my confidence was higher on this one 👍
Been a subscriber since the Mr Telephone days, its been inspiring to see the journey you've made from starting off these "Trying to Fix" series to where you are now. Top man, keep up the excellent work!
Iv been here since the start also, I love how vince's enthusiasm hasn't wavered over the years and how that moment of getting something working is still as magical as it always was for him, I hope it's always like that for me aswell, I'd be lost without my repair hobby
As a tipVince, I always start with the power supply and than I used to trace the signal from input to output. You then often find you find the fault more quickly. I think your soldering and board work is brilliant. Good Job and keep the videos coming.
I enjoy the fixes of less standard fair like this. Graphics cards and motherboards are cool and flashy but there’s so many other types of electronic gadgets that might be repairable also. So it’s good to see them on the bench too
Looks like the board was designed to accommodate some kind of heat-sink (grounded holes on the side + silk screen), but for some reason they skipped it (cost?). Since both had the same fault, it's reasonable to assume this could be a common fault on these, and that adding a heat-sink might remedy it.
Nice repair, wouldn't recognize the chip was replaced! Just one note, 10:05 - I wouldn't use amplified output as an input for another amplifier. At best there would be clipping or overvoltage protection would cut it off. Still it seems to me it can make some damage.
Well done vince :-D I'm supprsed that both chips died the same way, not even a power overload. Looked like a class D amplifier when i saw inductor filters on the outputs.
speaker drivers that small I can't see being more than 12 to 15 watt rated, so there's probably some high pass filtering to increase their power handling by reducing the bass frequencies lower than the tuned frequency of the enclosure and passive radiators.
I would've add more solder to the back side to help with dissipating the heat. Also, if you see, I think it was planned to have some kind of heatsync on top, that's why the holes around it. Knowing that they died because of heat, probably, I would add a heatsync with some termal glue on top of those.
Yeah! And a proper heatsink, considering the available room. It is true that there is no air circulatig to remove the heat from the heatsink but this remedy is better then nothing! Regards from Italy.
Looks like those holes in the board either side of the audio amp ic are maybe for an optional heatsink, with it being a common fault, might be worthwhile bodging some kind of heatsink in there to prevent the chips dying again
That's also what I was thinking. Yes, it says it's not required but Vince found two that might not have needed to be replaced if they only had some sort of heatsink.
This was a popular 20w audio amplifier i.c a few years ago, used in TVs and Bluetooth devices, fairly reliable but would really benefit from a heatsink particularly when the volume is cranked up. Now superceded by the TDA family. Another item saved from landfill Vince. Regards.
@@Mymatevince you should definitely revisit this speaker in the near future with a heatsink mod vince. Probably even something off another junker device would be good enough. They make sticky pad thermal compound adhesive type things too I believe you can use to atach it
one point vince you can not check audio output from the chip on a class D amp only after the filters this is to say the inductors. the output from the chip is a high frequency modulated square wave . a great fix.
I had a Poloroid DVD player new that quit working and tried to diagnose long ago. The DVD tray would spin the disc and eject while loading or as it played. I was surprised the size of the unit and the lack of parts to require the waste of space but the build quality overall was so cheap I trashed it.
Vince with sound, although a speaker says it is for example 25 watts, doesn't mean that it shuold be driven to the max volume level, all the 25 watts would be is the quality of the speaker compared to a 1 watt speaker for example, and you know around mid range volume it is not going to be distorted anywhere near the same as a 1 watt speaker for example, and quite a lot of the time things like Halfords don't tend to show frequency ranges on their new speaker, they usually just show the watts (because that is all the lad cares about with his beaten up mark 1 ford escort!!) is how much power he can pump through his £2,000 car radio with amplifiers. so like a 10 watt is better sounding than a 1 watt by about 10 times, and 25 watt is going to sound 25 times better than a 1 watt. while right that the speaker should have a chip more powerful than the speaker, it is a way to protect the speakers from damage if someone puts them into overdrive distortion, then the chip is cheaper to replace than the speakers.but a 25 watt speaker is better at handling base and high end sound compared to a 10 watt speaker.
Nice repair Vince. I love your improvised signal tracer using an amplified speaker. Out of interest what is the rating of the power supply adapter for these soundbars? If they are 25W per channel = 50W and they look to be class D amplifiers which could have around 90% efficiency then the the PSU would have to be rated at something like 12V 5A = 60W minimum. I'm just wondering if these are really 50W speakers since, as Scotty once, said ' Ye Cannae change the laws the laws of Physics'
Can't help but think those mounting holes either side of the amplifier chip and the white square around it suggest at one point in the design process there was to be a heatsink atop that chip. Which has been removed. Even if the datasheet says it doesn't need a heatsink on page 1, heat is a mortal enemy of chips, and it does say later on page 9 "The external heat-sink or system cooling method should be adopted for maximum power output.".
Man, been watching your channel for a long time, its awesome to see have far your diagnostic skills have come along. Great fix, awesome video. Do you think heatsinks on those chips would help the longevity?
It's interesting how they used vias directly under the chip to sink away the heat from the top and the bottom of the board. You would think that would be enough. That chip must be driven way to high. I'd like to stick a thermal camera on it, to take a look, when it's fully driven 🙂
Very common issue with these type of sound bar, when people try and use the, with their TV’s connected by the phone connections, they get no sound when playing from Blueray players, Sky boxes etc, due to the built in copy protection switching off all except hdmi outputs from the TV.
Those chips run hot and the bottom heatsink pad does little to stop them running hotter. This is why they fail easily. Might be a good idea to stick some small heatsinks on the tops of the chips. If you notice there are small holes in the board at the top and bottom of each chip for attaching a heatsink and soldering it down.
Cheers Joey, can't remember on this one. I think because the board was thin I would have used approx. 400 Celsius and 5 out of a possible 8 airflow. These came off really easy as the board didn't drain away any heat. It was a joy instead of a burning pit of nightmarish hell fire 🔥
They're only £24 now with remote! And we know who's got some spare chips if they fail!!!! It could be just what I need for something I'm setting up, so I've bought one. It's good to know what's inside before buying.
Vince. I have a really nice episode soundbar and I seems the issue may be something similar to this. I’m not qualified to fix it but is it something you would be interested in purchasing and fixing. Comes with the subwoofer as well.
It looks to me that those through-hole solder points on either side of the chip are there to attach a heatsink. They probably left off the heatsink to reduce costs and the chips are just baking themselves to death.
Please fix a microwave oven next. I have 3 that have magically broken by themselves and would like to see if I'm able to repair at least one of them. Cheers!
he has done one panasonic or samsum I think Probably one of the interlock switches from people slamming the door has burned or something took out the fuse or computer in yours Just sayin from experience fixing them
If ever you want a challenge m8... find a Fossil smartwatch that has been interrupted in its factory reset procedure... OMG what several hours of tail chasing that was and it took me connecting the battery terminals to an input matching the battery at peak that it finally unclenched its undies and reset correctly argh!!!
I Pick Up Stuff Like That At Thriftstores I Dont Broken Bluetooth Speakers. The Ones I Ran Accross Wh'er In Good Working Order. Then I Also Ran Accross USB Cables That Wh'er In Good Working Order Also. I've Also Ran Accross Some Microphones. But I Havent Tried Them Yet. But I'll Findout If They Work Or Not.
my case is powered on fine, but sometimes there's sound, then it crackling like a loose connection, then no sound. the connection cable to speaker seems fine, but I still don't know how sometimes it reconnect itself.
Can you review the Mayflash MAGIC-S PRO Wireless Controller Adapter? It’s like the MAGIC-NS, but a black adapter and it’s an adapter that will work with the PS4. And it won’t disconnect.
8 ohms impedance is not same has 8 ohms resistive. With a dc multimeter this is reading dc resistance. The impedance will be considerably greater and is measured at 1000hz. My guess is these are really 10 ohms or slightly higher! If the supply is 5 volts the maximum power is 3.1 Watts not 25 w which would require a supply voltage of at least 14volts!
I did, but I found the faulty chip on the original faulty board, and used the good chip from the region locked board to fix the faulty board. I didn't actually fix the region lock problem. If you are interested, I think it was the last Wii U video that I did but it was still well over a year ago 👍👍
