I have 4 sealed subwoofers. Music uses 2 subs at the front of the room. Movies in a 7.4.4 setup uses an additional 2 sealed subwoofers to the left/right of my couch. music source=Apple Music lossless.
Taking the "low sum out" of a 3-way active crossover to a subwoofer amp set for "mono in/stereo out" turns a tri-amped system into a beast. It makes watching NHRA Top Fuel drag racing an experience.
In car audio atleast having two subs gets you more sound for the money. It allows you to have stereo sound so it can fade left to right and is usually better placement in a car. For example with two subs they'll be each positioned behind the left and right seats instead of center of the car so the bass will hit your back instead of right ear only. It's possible they'll be slightly out of sync though and worsen sound quality. I haven't heard of this being a problem.
I read through some forums a while ago and there were some companies that recommended to setup one subwoofer on the center pre output and the other on the lfe/sub output of the a/v receiver. They also mentioned about finding the sweet spot for the subwoofer by putting the subwoofer in the listening position.
Hi there, I love music and while trying to do some research to facilitate fitting my own car hi fi I came across your channel. Thank you for simplifying a very deep subject. I could listen to you all day. Best regards Douglas.
I heard the Rockport Altair speakers 10 years ago and they were amazing sounding. The Rockport Carbon Fiber Woofer and Carbon Fiber midbases on the Altairs sounded so articulate. The Altairs i heard used a Scanspeak tweeter that sounded smooth. I love the red color on the Rockport Cygnus speakers.
Many years ago I read an interview with one of the founders of the company Lexicon. Lexicon make high end reverb units (to give music some audio space, for those who don't know) he said that you should use two bass or sub woofers because they put out of phase components into their reverb to widen the stereo perception. They do this because there are out of phase components to real world reverbs and spaces. so the reverb from each speaker is subtly different. if you use just one sub woofer then this effect is made into mono and lost. Lexicon Reverb is used on most music recordings to support or supplant real reverbs, even when the musicians think it isn't. so it WILL make a difference. at least that's what the guys at Lexicon say.
For a single subwoofer setup,j ust make sure the crossover frequency is low enough (mine is at 80hz), take time to found the right positioning for a sub regarding your listening position. Off course you will suffer from nulls in your room, but i can live with that as long the response on my listening spot is fine
I am a big fan of distributed bass, I run 2 12" servo subs in stereo and 3 hidden in room mono..The three mono subs are 10", 12", and 15" all set to their sweet spot via crossover and gains.. Makes for a very clean bass presence, I can turn the knob to any volume level without having to adjust the subs because they are not working hard to give me my bass.. Sounds real clean with any style of music.
Thank you! I went from a single sub with two satellites and then added the second matching sub in my music studio. The satellites roll off at 120 and there is a noticeable difference. Especially with a properly sampled pipe organ being played. Also if a bass signal has any type of panning effects. The system is an EV ELX with a horn for highs, a 12” for under 5k and 18” for the sub. The system has its own amps and crossovers. I selected after rejecting systems from JBL, QSC and some other lesser known brands. Yes this is a music studio and not a living room setup.
Absolutely agree with you : Stereo-Subwoofers are even better. I'm very happy with my current set up: Maggies 3.7 and Duo JAl Subs! Thanks very much for sharing you experience.
where u position the woofer matters too. stand at the back wall and listen. then stand in front of it. i noticed this years ago when taking speakers apart
Thanks, I have a set of older really tall Logan Martin speakers and I was thinking of adding a sub. Now I will just go ahead and get 2 good subwoofers.
I know I'm years late on commenting on this video, but Paul nailed it with this one. A sub in general makes a great improvement in a sound system, but two is a monumental difference!
In most records the bass instruments bass guitar Bassdrum (Bass keyboards )are recorded in Mono and are almost always panned C in the mix for more high output levels. If you have a big wide room and can get two subwoofers to work whit out them cancelling out each other yes two subwoofers will sound bigger move more air and have 100% stereo paning compatibility. In a small narrow room one Mono subwoofer will probably be more easy to place in optimal position levels /phase and crossover match as bass extension to the main speakers. the main speakers play full bandwidth anyway so paning below 200hz can be heard anyway in the main speakers.One exception to the rule bass instruments always recorded in Mono and panned C-centred are Symphonic music or Jazz recorded in a hall in true Stereo with X/Y Otrf Bluimline M/S Microphone setup and such recordings the bass instruments will be panned same way as they are setup in the recording room.
Might it also be a problem of phase in 2.1 systems, between the sub and the satellites/speakers, because the sub is not placed under the speakers? Thank you for your videos.
I have a very humble stereo system with built-in stereo subwoofers. It is so impressive. A friend of mine came to check my set up and he was impressed, specially with the bass sound. And I didn't even show him the audiphile cut of the album 'San Francisco' by Bobby Hutcherson with guest bassist Harold Land, who plays both acoustic and bass player on this 1971 album.
even with my single Stereo Integrity IB24 inch sub (xover is 70 @ -12db per octave) its very easy to tell that the LFE is "pressurizing" that side of the room - or loading - whatever term you want to use... When a second sub was added to the opposite side of the room - the LFE energy becomes completely balanced in the room....as is the case with most Home Theaters I have installed....
I don't need speakers to reproduce the lowest octave (25-50 Hz), but these frequencies add realism at a substantial purchase price. I have heard single and double subwoofer systems, and I'd have to agree with Paul: two subwoofers are much easier to blend with the satellite speakers because of midrange directionality (there is no brickwall crossover for either speaker).
Great video. What if i have two subs that have high level inputs and high level outputs? Could i use one sub on each main speaker using high level input and high level outputs, ie.. left speaker cable leaves amp and is connected to the left high level input on my sub and then out to the left main speaker from the left high level output of the sub and the same on the right with a second sub? Any help would be amazing Cheers
subwoofers and I are good friends to, funny since we became friends all my other friends dont like me anymore, they talk behind my back saying chris's new friend subwoofer is a loudmouth , you can hear him a mile away! get it, lol!
Laws of physics. Directionality is determined by a source signal hitting each ear at slightly different times causing a phase and level difference between them. You can not determine the source location of a sound if the frequency wavelength is lower than the distance between your ears. Below that frequency the wave hits both ears relatively in phase. No differentiation. If you can identify the location of a subwoofer in a room sonically it is because it is producing sounds above that frequency.
Paul McGowan In Rock and Pop music all low bass is mono in the mix. But Classal and Jazz is a different story. Pressure waves can be a factor in determining where the low bass is coming from. But not with Rock and Pop. Below 80hz is omnidirectional. In 5.1 mixes it's mostly going to be in the low effect channel. Hint: Not every audio engineer uses the low effect channel and they DON'T LIKE THAT AT MASTERING. I have had (and others) the 5.1 mixes sent back with note, "Nothing in the low effect channel..." I try to tell them that's how I want it because I want stereo bass. And then I get a long, long, long lecture on acoustics and that persons with cheap systems can't have low bass in their main speakers because they can't handle them. I point out that all home systems have bass management so that no low bass is gonna get into the mains and blow them up. In fact no bass of ANY KIND will get to any of the 5 speakers of a cheap ass Home Theatre In A Box system. But no one listens..... Those $300 in a box Home Cinemas should be outlawed! Anyway, those aren't subwoofers. They are woofers. 100 - 300 hz. They handle all of the bass and them some. But in the manual of your spiffy new Home Theatre System it says - YOU CAN PUT A SUBWOOFER ANYWHERE. Not this thing you can't. At 300hz you goona know where this thing is at all times. And the THD of these cheap amps can reach as high as 5% at loud volumes. I guess it way better than a sound bar but Jesus..... You make a good point. But with todays modern music it's pointless. Stereo music before 1973 is where you get bass and kicks mixed all over. And of course stereo miked music like: Folk, Jazz and Classical. But even that is ending. Some mastering engineers have started to mono the bass below 80hz. Even in classical. Sad, but true.
@John Morris "And the THD of these cheap amps can reach as high as 5% at loud volumes." ANY amp can reach a THD of more than that, IF you pushed them beyond their limit. The thing tough, is that a high power, high quality, amp, will have a limit high enough for you not need to push them byond that.
Would the sub woofers have to be identical? I have one old Kef which is now obsolete, I am looking at getting a second Kef sub but would be a different model
Hi Paul! I love your easy to understand science to support your ideas. I'm starting to designing a high integrity sound space, and would like your input not on dual subs per say, but the mixture of sizes. Example: I enjoy the hard hitting fast response off say a 8" sealed. But I also need the richness of a 12" ported or open baffel. I've had stereo subs in the past and lived them. But I want to get the best of both frequencies. I haven't found much on this topic in my research thus far. I wonder if I'm under powered/frequency range of my loud speakers and trying to compensate... What are your thoughts? Thank you, again for taking the time to put a quality channel out.
Good day sir Paul. from philippines.. i also a music lover. i have a question related to a poping sound randomly.. is it electrical issue or speaker problem?.. i check 3 times my speaker connector. wire is ok. thank you
I finally bit the bullet and got two subwoofers Polk DSW PRO 550 for my Magnepan MG12s ( 2 pairs ). Basically extending the range of the front pair. You are so right about using Speaker level connections. Once I moved my system to my finished basement, much bigger room, I wanted to see how much of a difference they could make since I now have the space. Oh it's a noticable difference with music. I have yet to watch movies with the subs but will soon.
what if the goal is to color the sound just the way you want it ? or perhaps maybe the goal is to get the right room so you can feel like you're their like paul says , but how close ? 50 ft or 5 ft away ?
Would really appreciate someone's advice on the following; Given my crossover is set to below 80Hz as I have satellites with 8" woofers that are flat to ~45-50Hz and localization and headroom aren't an issue, would a second sub even be warranted if the frequency response isn't that bad at the relevant listening spots? If there are no major nulls, can't I forego the second sub? In other words, wouldn't measurements and use case determine the extent to which a 2nd sub is warranted? And in some cases (though maybe unlikely), wouldn't it be unwarranted?
Absolutely agree. The question is though, with the amount of money you invest in good stereo subwoofers is that money better spend on a upgraded pair of main speakers ? Not to mention that better main speakers are more closely tuned to blend with the rest of the speaker. You also dont have the challenge of proper placement and calibration of the subwoofers.
I just saw the video today it was informative. But I would like to get your input on sub and placement. I'm looking at getting a Rel T-9i subwoofer but at the moment I only need one. Later I plan to purchase another sub once I get a media room. My concern is the price! I like the bass that one Rel sub produces and I know when it comes time to purchase another one its recommend that you purchase the same type. Is there brand that you can recommend that is more cost effective with a good output like this sub? Also I plan to place my one subwoofer in the back of the room, is that ok?Thanks for your input
In a enclosure with a subwoofer what is better to add, a mid range speaker or a full range speaker.. ? And Adding a tweeter is optional or must should be added..??? Plz help me out to build a small sound system.. With Regards..
you need a tweeter with a full range driver - it just sounds better. you need a tweeter with a subwoofer, actually might be worth researching having a tweeter and a super tweeter with your subwoofer but you also need the right cross-over.
I'd say that if your satellite speakers (main speakers) have a low enough f3 so that your subwoofer is only supporting the lowest octave, then you probably only need just one. But, If your satellite speakers only go down to 80 to 100 hz, then your subwoofer is carrying the lowest 2-2.5 octaves. In this case you will get some additional stereo placement by having two. My homebrew satellite speakers have an F3 of around 60hz (according to the design equations using the drivers Theil-Small parameters and the box dimensions). So my subwoofer is really only supporting the lowest 1.5 octaves. Given the small size of my room, I think I'm doing OK with just one subwoofer. Anyway, I'd rather have just one subwoofer that had usable response down to 20hz or lower, than a pair that only got down to 30hz (as some do).
I have two different brand of 12 inch subwoofers that have the same rms, 4 ohm, dvc and are in separate boxes connected to a single mono amp wired to see 1 ohm. It sounds great. Is it ok to do this?
Its not just ok but even better to mix different subwoofer types as you reduce drops in the frequency response curve. You get the same benefit when mixing different mids and highs drivers. Its going to sound more wide and natural.
I would have added that the size and shape of the listening space would be an important consideration. In a big, wide open room, one could probably hear the differences with 2 subs. In a small, confined area, not... Like a car, for example. You could never hear stereo differences with 2 subs r/l in a car. Even in a studio control room, in most cases, not enough width to handle the large wavelength.
I'm not really on the same page about stereo subwoofers. I need to say i cross at 80Hz 18dB/oct. I do use subs on each side but hear any difference between mono or stereo. My mains are integrated from 60Hz on up. Does that make the difference?
it depends what type of music are you listening to. for classical, jazz and audiophile music you don't need a subwoofer. but for electronic, pop, rock, dance you'll need one. nost of these tracks have tricky 25 to 40 Hz stuff in them
Wavelength is inversely proportional to the frequency so low frequency sound implies a high wavelength. Wavelength = (speed of sound)/frequency. A 100 Hz low frequency sound would have a wavelength of 340/100 meters.That is 3.4 m. This wavelength is comparable to the size of a bedroom. A 20 Hz sound has a wavelength of 17 meters. This is the reason our ears cannot perceive the source and location of low frequencies. Human hearing is also most sensitive to pick up frequencies in the 2 kHz to 4 kHz range. This range also happens to be where the average human speech is located. Also leaves rustling and twigs cracking are also within this range. Humans have developed acute hearing in this range so as to detect predators and danger (obviously this was in the distant past and is also present in our human primates) (Note: A sound frequency of 3000 Hz equates to a wavelength of about 11 cm which comparable to the distance between the left and right ear. Humans can easily detect sound source and the stereo audio effect at these frequencies/wavelengths and higher.)
@j s we share an ancestry with the highest primates. Thats why our genetic code is about 98.5% identical to that of the higher primates such as the gorilla, chimp and orangutan. You shouldnt feel ashamed of your cousins.
@j s Incorrect. It depends on what genetic regions and markers you are comparing. Overall there is about an 85% similarity between mouse and human genomes. Some genes may be 99% similar, some are 50%. You can also find specific genes in bananas or bacteria that overlap with human genetic characteristics. Why would you pluck out a genetic feature that has a 99% similarity with human genetic information and make a broad statement like the one you made in your post? It's clear to me that you need to withdraw or edit your previous post and submit a formal apologise my friend.
@j s Evolution doesnt say we come from monkeys. It's best that you dont comment on things and scientific facts that you clearly heavent read up on or dont possess a comprehension on. How old is the earth?
@@smanzoli I have to disappoint you but you are not correct: it implies to a long wave and a high wavelength! But many make this mistake to be honest 😄
Woww, pretty awesome channel ! I'm new to this channel and I will say I love what u do and enjoy ur videos and always enjoy learning something new . Iam a audiophileat heart and I enjoy clean, precise and loud music . On, that note I would love one of your audiophile hats. Thank u .
My opinion while not knowing enough is, first of all, movies soundtracks are in 5.1, 7.1, Atmos, DTS-X, etc, not stereo, so, none. But if you have a system that converts properly multichannel surround sound into stereo, like Dolby virtual speaker, Creative CMSS3D/SBX, other, to "properly" listen it in stereo, and all destroy quality (and/or positioning) at least on the rear/side/up speakers, so in that sense both (2.2 speaker level-2.1 line level, that are if I'm understanding correctly both from a stereo source) will do (knowing that line level is better that speaker level). But with 2.2 speaker level (you can use a 2.2 line level too, why not) you will have the advantage of not mixing the low frequencies of all left and right channels into only 1 sub plus LFE, and mixing the content of the LFE channel on two subs making it more efficient. That's if you are starting from stereo, but then if you have a system that can use the lfe channel of for example 5.1 and throw it into a sub and then virtualize the rest of the channels into the 2 "satellites" the a sub is enough and proper.
I've heard that if you go with different brands and what not, you need to stick with either two ported subs or two sealed subs and not mix them as they will be hard to tune them in with the system. I have no idea about the science behind this. Just that it made sense when I heard it. I think it was something to do with timing of the sound waves. you get the wave from the woofer front and then from the back which takes time to travel through the port. Different designs, different timing but for some reason it's easier to tune with different port designs. There will be more audible difference coming from a sealed sub in one area of the room than a ported in other part of the room. Best bet is same sizes and placement for room correction.
Bass Player here - I love subwoofers. My question is about putting a subwoofer at every speaker. Making a 5.1 surround system to a 5.5 surround sound system. Even though we may not hear the direction of that frequency, wouldn't we want the shockwave? I play a lot of games and watch a lot of movies. I can feel the direction of the subwoofer. So if you picture yourself in the middle of the room, 5.1 surround sound system and someone in the game or movie kicked the door down behind you, the shockwave would come from the front, not the back. This throwing off the direction of the shockwave. Now if you upgrade to a 7.2 surround sound system and that same person kicks the door down on your left, you might feel the shockwave from the back and the front. However in real life the shockwave most likely come from side when that the door busts open.
Hello Paul: I am running a music only, 2-channel HiFi system that uses a Vincent SA-31 MK preamplifier and a Vincent SP-331 power amplifier. SVS recommended the SB-1000 Pro subwoofer for my speaker & room size. Which connection method described below will give me better signal and sound quality? 1. Using the RCA connections and putting this sub between the preamp and amp (Preamp -> Sub -> Power Amp -> Speakers). 2. Using speaker cables utilizing the high-level speaker inputs and outputs on the sub (Preamp -> Power Amp -> Sub -> Speakers). I have been told to connect the sub both ways. My speakers are DCM TimeFrame TF-700 and the largest driver in them is a 6.5" which made me think I should be using a 8" or 10" sub, preferably a pair of matching subs. Thank you in advance for your recommendations.
If i have one preamp out on my reciever and use an rca splitter to run 2 subs is that considered stereo? Wasnt sure if in true stereo setup if both speakers get the exact same signal
tho stereo bass is nice of a concept, you can phase cancel them if you point them in the wrong direction or the shape of your room and it's object makes 1 side reflect faster then the other. i have that problem, i have my PC set on surround on 2 separate amps, i have 2 15 inch on the sub channel, and 2 columns with 12 inches in the front and 2 at the back, i had to put my back speaker's wires inverted (red in black and black in red) to stop canceling the bass... i also would need bass traps in some spots since the bass sounds louder outside of the room than in the middle of it! (the whole house shakes and in some spots in the room, it is paper flat!) so for multiple directions of bass, if it sounds flat, change the angles of your bass drivers (you may have to turn on almost 180 degrees! depending on the shape of the room. if so, i suggest adding bass traps!) (EDIT: i don't have money so no bass traps ;P )
Good video as usual, Paul. I've a question. I've a 15" subwoofer that has taken me forever (think years) to properly dial in and am extremely pleased with its performance. Finally. That said, I've just ordered a 2nd identical subwoofer to place in the exact opposite side of the room. Why? Not necessarily because I think anything's lacking but rather to ensure little / nothing is lacking as I've read too many times others say that a 2nd sub is always more beneficial. Of course, most everybody has their own magic potion (or lack thereof) toward dailing in subwoofers. I have a few concerns because dialing in 1 subwoofer can be quite taxing but 2 or more subs could be rather daunting. That said, my intention is to position the 2nd sub in the symmetrical room in the identical opposite location of the first sub. I also intend to start with all subwoofer settings on the 2nd sub to be identical to those that work so well on the 1st sub. Moreover, each sub will have its own 20 amp dedicated AC line/circuit, using identical cables, and each will be identically anchored to the sub-flooring. At least to the best of my ability. What could possibly go wrong? :) Since lower frequencies are not so directional, would it be more beneficial to connect L&R channels to each subwoofer? Or should each subwoofer just have one channel connected? My initial thought was one channel per sub but if there's minor room modes due to either subwoofer, wouldn't a L+R connection at each sub help minimize / eliminate any postential room modes? I'm sure I'll end up trying both ways, but good advice just might save me from wasting time potentially barking up the wrong tree for too long a period of time. Thanks.
Thanks. Definitely, connect left to the one and right to the other. While I know it's tempting to use mono for both there's always an added imaging aspect we "feel" when left and right are separated.
I like subs to, two subwoofers in one room is good setup, in my room they are on opposite side of the room, bass is strong but not to aggressive, lot of air is moving, its nice to have 2 x sub in one room.
I have read that two subs is more for dealing with room modes than having "stereo" sound. Maybe that is more from a home theater point of view (using LFE)? Great video as always!
That is correct. Most (99.9%) of stereo recordings are in mono below 100 Hz , so no stereo info in that subwoofer region . Even if there was , your listening room (and the separation between your speakers) is too small compared to the wavelenghts to hear it
Two can really help with standing waves and room positioning, but it's not wholly necessary, especially if you can get your one sub somewhere near the centre of the listening position and make sure it rolls off before about 60hz I wouldn't put too big a sub with small speakers, you seem to get a certain phase disjointment, most bookshelf speakers are fine with 10"
From what I heard, its strongly recommended. You want both Subs to be able to it the same low frequencies and you want the same output levels. Im sure you can get away with a different Sub, but you'll have to tweak the to come close in values. OR, you can sell your current one and get new subs. Haha. This hobby of ours. Good Luck my friend. Hope this helps!
Unless we're talking about SPL, the subs does not need to match, as mixing different types you reduce drops in the frequency responce curve. Mixing different types of drivers is going to make it sound more wide and natural. You get the same benefit with mids and highs.
If I use two same size subwoofer in a enclosure. In which both subwoofer is partitioned in separate chamber inside enclosure. One chamber is completely sealed with passive bass radiator to produce low bass frequency and another subwoofer chamber is a little hole for air to produce high bass.. is it a good idea or just rubbish..?
WOW, SOUND SYSTEM TALK ALWAYS REMINDS ME OF THE GOOD ‘OL DAYS BACK IN THE 90’s WHEN I HAD TWO (SEALED)12’s IN THE TRUNK OF MY 87 T-BIRD !!! I USED TO SPEND HOURS OVER MANY WEEKS, and MONTHS MAKING SMALL TWEEKS TO THE VARIOUS ADJUSTMENTS... ...I REMEMBER FINDING THAT WITH STEREO SUBS IT WAS MUCH EASIER TO ACHIEVE A CONSISTENT LEVEL OF BASS ACROSS DIFFERENT TRACKS OF MUSIC (WITH VARYING QUALITIES OF SOUND ENGINEERING) ALLOWING ME TO FIND JUST ONE FLAT SOUND SETTING THAT WAS AWESOME FOR EVERYTHING WITHOUT HAVING TO CONSTANTLY RE-ADJUST SETTINGS AT THE HEAD UNIT.. ANOTHER ADVANTAGE I REMEMBER WAS THAT THE SOUND TEXTURE AND DETAILS OF THE BASS WERE MUCH RICHER AND DYNAMIC WITH THE TWO SUBS... THE INCREASE IN QUALITY OF THE SOUND SIGNATURES BETWEEN THE LOW STRINGS VS LOW SYNTHESIZERS VS PERCUSSION WAS SOMETHING ONLY TRUE AUDIOPHILES COULD APPRECIATE...
Hi. love the all info. And Sound Room 1 ! Pink Floyd indeed. I have a pr. of Infinity Studio Monitor 150, in need of repair. Does your establishment do such, like replacing the surround, or cone replacement ? If not, know of a business That you might Recommend ?
Hi Paul, Could´t agree with you more !! One sub at the front center or a couple separated on each side of the room. I noticed by experience that two subs by pressurizing the room evenly, they can improve dynamics on frequencies they were not suppose to reach. One other thing I've discover along the time with my experiences is ... Subwoofers are sensitive to toe-in like regular speakers, you try that, and comeback to me, see how the soundstage focus and becomes bigger and richer. For those giving the first steps on Subs, they can be a very frustrating experience at the beginning but, here are two golden rules for starters; a) Sub alignment between two subs MUST be made by the micron, meaning the distances between back and side walls MUST be exactly the same on the two boxes, and I mean not by the millimeter, its by the micron !! b) If you spent a lot of money (like I did), on very expensive subs that have variable phase alignment (very handy), so that you don't have to move the subs micron by micron on your room ... Forget about it, leave the potentiometer at 0 and do the positioning / alignment by hand, will take a bit longer but you only have this trouble once, believe me. In my case, I started using the pot and after a few auditions the sub vibration was enough to desalign the setup. ;) Cheers !!
When adding subs, I like to think of it like you are turning a 2 way system into a 3 way system. You consider your mid/bass drivers to be your mid range and the subwoofer becomes your bass driver. For this reason you need 2. Bass as well as everything else is played in stereo.
I think I’ve found a pretty knowledgeable audience for this question. I need a sub recommendation for under $400. I don’t know the market well and don’t know what to get. Should I consider Bluetooth? Klipshe? Yamaha? Purely bass for music, not a theater set up here. (electric and hip hop)
I built a pair of subwoofer Cabinets each housing (2) 15" MTX Subwoofers for my theater room... Each pair L and R are in a 8 cubic foot vented enclosure tuned to 32 Hz... I get extention down to 20 hz @ -3db from its 38 hz peak in room. These play very flat from 20 - 70 hz at the +/- 3 db range... I agree Stereo Subwoofers Kick A$$!
I went dual svs ultra 16s with my BW 802n and wow!!!! I have them turned up just enough to fill in that bottom end that the big 802 can’t reproduce. My system went from great to just simply amazing. I do feel a little guilty for under utilizing them since these subs can blow the windows out of my house but that’s not the point for getting these either.
I feel like a major factor would be room size. One small subwoofer can work perfectly in a small room. One large subwoofer can work in a medium size room and more than one large subwoofer could work in a large room.
Let me back Paul up. I have a very substantial pair of floor standers and for a long time was convinced they needed no augmentation. After listening to friends systems with lesser speakers than mine, but with subs, I began to appreciate their value as part of an audio system I went out a pair of small Rels, 10 inch active and 10 inch passive in each sub, and the difference is night and day. I could not go back to a system, a life, without subs. You don’t need to spend a fortune on a pair of oversized bulky and hefty units. Just stick with the best you can afford, they will make a massive difference.
