Thanks! I’ve been rigid heddle weaving for about a year and a half. I never thought I would be saying this, but I’ve come to really enjoy the warping process. I did recently make a mistake. I was indirect warping a doubled 8/2 cotton warp and was so intent on handling the doubled thread warp that I didn’t think until afterwards about dividing that warp into multiple chunks. When I tied the 22.8 “ wide 5 1/2 yd 7 color bundles warp onto my front beam at the center point to thread the heddle, not only was it difficult to handle that thick warp all tied on at one point, it was a warp with edges that were much shorter. It all worked out, but took me much longer and I held my breath until it was all untangled and wound on the back beam. So just wanted to add that dividing the warp up applies to direct and indirect, so that someone else doesn’t make the same mistake that I did.
Kelly I just wanted to let you know about a surprise I found while putting my new rigid heddle loom together. Ashford incorporated a warping board on the back side of the loom! You just have to buy the pegs. I guess it makes up for not having the little shelves on the floor stand. I'm a happy camper. I have really enjoyed watching your instructional videos. I will eventually become a member of your online classes when I get ready to start weaving. The loom is my Christmas present from my husband.
Great tip! I just took my first rigid heddle class. The class project was an 8 1/2” wide scarf. The students were sharing each end of the classroom tables. My table partner and I had to use the opposite edges to lay out our warp. I was wondering about the angle that the warping peg was at, which was to the sides of each of our looms. Since this was a practice project it did not really matter. Thank you for this warping tip!
I am such a happy student (of yours)! This was so helpful as I am going to try to weave (krokbragd - following your course) some tapestry on an Ashford 70 for the first time and was worried about how to put all that warp on one peg :)
Please can you explain how to read a weaving draft. I have a couple ridge headle looms and 2 small table top looms, when I got the 24" I didn't think about the pattern drafts .I need a course on reading a pattern draft for dumbys. Looks like I'm going to be taking a lot of your classes.i can't even find a guild closer than 2hoursi can sit by someone and watch them just do it right along with no problem .I need someone to show a dumdy thanks janice
Warp each yarn weight (and tie off) separately. It's not about getting it tight, it's more important the tension is even. Any slack threads can be addressed by weighting down at the back of the loom (Kelly suggest an S-hook) or placing thick card under those threads as it winds off from the back - all of this has been covered over a multitude of videos that Kelly has already very kindly taken the time and effort to share.
This sounds like a great idea. I am having trouble visualizing taking it off the pegs and winding. Is there another video for this, or do you just lift off one, cut, then lift off and cut the next, and holding the two (or more) groups wind it on? Sorry for being a bit thick on this. Thank you.
Lucy, have you warped a loom using the direct warping method before? If you're an absolute beginner I do have a very popular online course that will teach you everything you need to know to get started- kelly-casanova-weaving-lessons.teachable.com/p/beginner-rigid-heddle/?preview=logged_out But basically, you lift all those loops off at the same time and don't cut the yarn until you've wound the warp on.
Thank you, Kelly. Yes, I have used the direct warping method before and I should have been more clear. I meant lifting all the yarn off the first peg then lifting all off the second. However I will check your class again. I appreciate your input.
@@livinginsd23 Oh, sorry, I see what you mean! I don't know if I show this specifically in a class, but you can either lift off the first warp, followed by the second and hold them together as one warp or you can chain the 2 warps separately to keep them tidy, then hold them as you wind on, pulling them out of the chain as you go. A bit hard to explain, but it's quite simple! 😊
What happens when you are ready to wind the warp on to the back beam? Does your assistant hold the bundles separately or, if no help available, do you keep the bundles separate with a weight on each one?
Are you familiar with "yank and crank"? I've used this method since '91...by myself and have never had an issue with tension. The trick to this is don't yank anything more than a handful at a time. Remember, keeping it even, not tight. Also, it is not really a yank, but more of an even pull across the warp, each section at a time. Hope this helps. Oh, I should tell you that I make bundles about 5" wide and I put choke ties (about 3' apart) on them so that they do not tangle. I remove the choke tie when it gets close to the heddle
@@KellyCasanova I love this. Looks so smooth and effortless to wind on like this. Thank you for sharing this additional video. Need to buy a stand now 🤣💖
Hi Kelly, I have watched many of your videos, many times each! The problem I am having with warping is when I take the threads off the warping peg, they tend to be a tangled mess. Everything I have watched show two groups of threads neatly separating. No one mentions having this mess or how to handle it, if that is not what you end up with. Your suggestions would be so very appreciated. Warmest regards, Sheila
Sheila, I wonder if you're twisting the loop as you place it on the peg? It is best to keep a finger between the threads as you pull out the loop and place it on the peg. Also, Make sure you're placing threads in order on the peg, not just placing them all on top of each other but in order.
@@KellyCasanova thank you. I am pretty sure that is what I have been doing. No one had explained to me the importance/consequences of putting all the loops on the peg with the yarn ball side needing to all go on the peg the same way. I will pay strict attention when I do my next warp. Thank you so much for your help and kindness.
Hi Kelly, thanks for this great advice, I have also used the side of a standard warping frame and this works well too. One issue I have is that I often find that once fully warped on to my back beam 2 or 3 of my outside/end warps are always a looser tension than the rest, what am i doing wrong? cheers Tina Maldon Victoria
I just returned to weaving after several years. The warp ended up such a mess that I couldn’t salvage it and had to order new yarn. Oh well, it’s a learning experience. It’s actually kind of funny.
