I love your content, it’s super informative and you always seem to know what you’re talking about. Also, your explanation on the power curves was excellent!
If yonaka makes coilovers for your car I recommend them, an extra 50-100 dollars for roughly twice the quality. But if you get a good price on maxpeedingrods for a honda it's not a terrible idea.
@@TURBOTRISTO They make exhaust systems, many of them are great for the street because they're quiet and deep. They also make some solid hard rubber engine mounts that I do not recommend lol
good man, thanks for watching, i actually have $3000aud coilovers in my civic now, although i havent driven on them yet and i bet they will be amazingly comfortable, I will be swaping them out to the new and improved mxr coilovers just because the koni's dont have the same adjustability
Ive just bought the Hondata bluetooth to 3pin datalogger and live telematory. Just waiting for it to arrive. Shits tits but cant mod the ECU just live data. Ive also found full work shop manuels for the 94 civics. It has all the timing and well every fucking spec on every nut and bolt, wiring, tuning you name it. I will share the shit out of it.
Tristan mate when you cooked the head it becomes soft and loses its hardness, aluminium hardness test the head as it may have been cooked before you had it would explain why your blowing head gaskets 😜👍🇦🇺
@TURBOTRISTAN hey Tristan, James here from the US! Haven’t forgotten about you just been doing research! Some ideas you may want/be able to try to resolve head lift; this aluminum hardness could be a viable possibility considering many aluminum heads shouldn’t really be cooked though some machine shops do anyway as well as you should use a head gasket accordingly to what has been shaved off the base of the head, you can also look into getting a performance cast iron head made to d16y7 stock specs (they were much easier to find last year and seemingly impossible now) check your radiator cap and system to make sure it’s capable of taking the extra boost, otherwise a properly hardened and leveled aluminum head with arp studs after the second round of torquing should be good. According to the old boys on Honda forum if you have all of that go back to the basics and make sure your radiator and so on is in good enough condition to keep up. I believe you said it lifted on 15-16 psi last time, should go at least 20 with the effort you have put into your car. I hope some of this helps. I know it only kills me more when someone says it’s probably something simple at this point but it may be true 🤷🏻♂️the main thing I believe to ask would be what exactly went first that made you notice the head lifted? Coolant reservoir fill? Oil leak out the head? Those might help point you to your weakest link. Hope this helps, cheers 🤙🏼
@TURBOTRISTAN feels bad I just finished this video today and your timing problem seemed to ring a bell, a lot of people like to run stock or slightly retarded timing. Also, I know you did vitara build, did you do low compression or did you get custom fit rods to even it back to stock? Those would affect what you should do with your timing as well as how your turbo will affect boost, I’m sure you know that but hope it helps as well.
@@hondacivic2548 you are correct I have all the parts, just need time to get it done I’m moving to a workshop in 3 weeks I’ll have to mock up the kit then send it over seas to be mass produced it could be 6 months - 1 year
@@TURBOTRISTO Yea bro mean, i’ve been watching u grow from about 300 subs and your blowing up atm. Might be k20a swapped by then, wouldn’t mind buying another civic and chucking your kit on it tho🤙
So many ppl rag on these. Theres always top brands, but i agree totally they are worth thier price. Well fit enough for occasional tracking, which most ppl do. now if they woukd make ones for my current n15 project..
I have 10k miles on mine, the cheapest ones they had. No damper adjustment just height and preload and they actually ride pretty decent. My dad got some for his mazda 3, absolute junk. Highest ride height was slammed af and we could not get the back to stop clunking no matter what we tried. Maybe stick to their honda stuff?
@@TURBOTRISTO A couple years ago. We never figured out what the clunking was and maxpeedingrods just told us to have it professionally installed. We tried all kinds of tricks. bushings, grease, etc. It was so hard to pinpoint the noise, everything seemed fine when we were underneath, no play at all.
Don't know about timing advance, but generally if it runs lean, you get alot more power, but causes more heat. Finding a balance between power, heat management and spool up i guess
Tristan, I’m between these maxspeeding and truhart street plus. Have you had any time with truhart products? I hear the maxes are bouncy in the rear no matter how you adjust them. ( I take that with a grain of salt as I don’t know others with that complaint or their other rear components.) have you had to combat any rear bounce and how did you resolve if so? Thanks T!
I will research the truharts tomorrow I’ve never heard of them tbh, I haven’t had any issue with ‘bouncy’ tears but I guess civics are light in the rear end, I’m lucky I have a sedan they are far more stable, and tbh tein - hks and Cusco are really harsh and bouncy, bc are probably the best value for money if you ask me after maxpeedingrods, but then again they are 5times the price so I guess they should be, I’m a little bit spoilt now after having tested shockworks and ridden in a car tuned with shockworks I can’t recomend anything else
To also answer your question if the car is bouncy it means there is too much pre load on the shocks and not enough shock travel - basically the shock isn’t moving because the springs are to tight or wound up and it bounces on the spring not the shock and spring, I would try lowering the spring down so the shock can travel and adjusting the height from the bottom
@@TURBOTRISTO better feedback than I was expecting! I know the truharts do well and hit a decent budget price. Check their other suspension components too... I will be looking into springworks myself as that’s new to me! I am in a 96 coupe and my old sedan was sturdy... I’ll have to learn this little 2dr. Thanks brotha! Keep killing it with useful content 🏴
@@TURBOTRISTO it’s morning Time where I am... shockworks*! I will check your video for sure. And you’re correct I’d assume folks are adjusting height by spring and not by lower tube adjustment. 🤘
The whole kit all 4 for that much, tbh they were ok and great for the price, but the new ones are black with grey springs the T07 spec ones and they are fantastic really good and cost around 700 for a full set of 4, I personally helped design the shocks and I have shock dyno tested them they are similar to a 1800 bc kit
@@TURBOTRISTO wow if all 4 are about $236 then that’s not bad at all. I’m just now getting into this territory and want to build up from the bottom with maxspeedingrods. I’m actually having to replace my struts on the front so I’m looking to get 4 coilovers all at once. I’ll upgrade when I can afford more.
I noticed they released a T7 Advanced Series Coilovers. Should we except a review on them in the future? They seem really new, so no reviews yet on youtube or on forums. Being their top of the line coilover i'm curious how they will perform next to their competitors, maybe some Teins (Street Advance Z or Flex Z), maybe some Koni Yellows + GC's (the age old honda classic) etc. Even if they come close to the well known brands performance wise for 2/3rds or half the price, they will be a no brainer.
I have recently shown the dyno graphs of the t7 coil overs they actually perform really well, and I fitted them into my civic they drive great, we have done 6 hour endurance racing on the t6 coil overs and they did great- fun fact the t6 coil overs performed 1/2 aswell as the t7 coil overs so its a huge improvement all around, we are getting some t7 coil overs for our enduro race car
Came across your content while looking for affordable coilovers. I saw this video was uploaded a year ago. Would you still recommend these coilovers for a budget build 2005 Honda Civc LX daily?
I would but i would recommending using their latests version the t07 or the t06 coil over they are much better and as good if not better than bc as far as how the shocks work, i have been doing some r&d here in Australia and sending mxr the results and the improvements they have made are amazing, we run them in two of our circuit cars check out my latest videos to see them on track, link in the descriptions for discounts
@@TURBOTRISTO Thank you for the reply I will definitely check out those upgraded versions! Do you have decal stickers? I would definitely like to place them on my car to show support to your channel and a thank you for helping me out with the suspension on this build for the car show!
Hey have a question. Have a bone stock d16y8 civic and recently checked/adjusted the ignition timing. I believe I did it right, but not sure if the way it accelerates now is normal for this engine. It seems to have good pick up to around 4000 rpms then it feels restrictive at higher rpms. Is that normal or should it be the opposite, slow low end and faster high end rpms?
That’s a hard one without inspecting the car, I would either go to a tuner or a mechanic and get them to double check your work, I wish I could help, but it’s hard to check
@@TURBOTRISTO Played with the ignition timing and at 14* it has better throttle response and smoother acceleration. Honda calls for 12* +/- 2* so technically I’m within specs. But I’m curious should I use a higher grade fuel if it’s advanced 2*?
@@mrsemifixit not right away it would mix with old fuel, best off putting the best fuel in you can afford, test it with good fuel see if it drives better, you might have dirty injectors also or even a dirty or clogged fuel filter and fuel pick up
As mentioned I have fitted around 7 sets and used them personally for nearly 3 years no issues and done track days they are amazing for the price , not amazing overall but amazing for the price,