@@APDTY My pleasure because of your two videos on the silverado I feel confident based on my home hvac skills to take on my siezed compressor. This is really helpful! Keep it up!
@@David.lovesU yes ac compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice and looked like slow leak on accumulator. Swapped high and low cutoff and used United air conditioning brand. And works great thanks a lot!
Great job, clear and concise. Oil is tricky, because it’s carried everywhere with the refrigerant, including to the atmosphere. I imagine that putting in the full 8 oz might be necessary. I think any excess would have ended up in the condenser and drain back down the hose. I’m going to do more research 👍🏽.
You can’t pull 30 ins only 29.9 in of mercury at least where I live in the south and is what I was taught, I’ve done hundreds but you made removing the compressed look easy not so much for me good job thro
New compressor is charged with Nitrogen @ +/- 5 psi to keep it dry until installed. Never guess about oil. If unknown, flush entire system and fill to manufacturer spec... Too much oil is as bad as not enough. Not to mention that old oil left in the system can be contaminated and will lead to premature component and compressor failure. Vacuum to 750 microns ( +/- 30 minutes ) from low side with micron gage attached to the high side. Isolate and let stand 15 minutes without decay above 1000 microns. If you get decay at or below 15 minutes repeat the vacuum and break with specified charge to high side. More than 1000 microns decay within 15 minutes check test equipment and or system for leaks and repeat. Keep in mind all refrigerant systems leak in microscopic over time.
The inchs of vacuum obtained when evacuating the ac system depends on your locations attitude above sea level, at sea level you will pull close to 30 inches about 29, for every 1000 feet above sea level you lose one inch of max vacuum for example at 2000 feet you should see about 27 to 28 inchs of vacuum on the low side ac guage you can also look at the baro sensor reading on the scan tool it will correspond to your locations elevation as well the weather conditions can also affect the barometric pressure as well
6:44 To anyone watching: if you don't want that to happen, fix leaks and keep the system charged... also, a good second hand comp has plenty of oil inside...
@@teravolt6113 Long story short I'm going to be changing my 2001 Chevy's comp. If I do get a good used one like u stated how do I check it out. I'm asking u because I don't want to go through all the b.s. of putting it on and then having to take it off. The salvage yards here in north Alabama are ran by clowns. They never check anything out.
@@wildestcowboy2668 Check clutch coil for proper resistance (a few ohms), drain and measure oil (1-2 ounces ought to be inside) either from refrigerant ports or crankcase oil drain hole (if there), spin pulley and check for rough bearing, spin shaft and check for smooth rotation... That's what i'd do
I find Gearwrenches super useful doing these, especially the bottom rear compressor bolts (15mm) which benefit from a short hinged Gearwrench. I anti-seize all my AC hardware (bolts and fittings) which pays off years later (I keep trucks for decades) doing future maintenance. It's easier to remove the tire but if ya fit inside the wheel well ya can rest your chest on it if you don't have a lift or jack handy. I jack mine, toss an old rim beneath the crossmember (much safer than jack stands, rims don't tip!) with a wood block (4x4 or similar) between rim and crossmember then pull the right side wheel when doing 'em outdoors.
Thank you for this Video. After watching many other Videos, yours was the first one that showed my exact A/C Compressor in my 1999 Silverado 2500, 6.0L Gas V8, which verified the new A/C Delco I bought is in fact the correct compressor. Now if I can locate my bottle of A/C Compressor oil I can finish this job. BTW, here in Northern California, we've had triple digit summer days for weeks!
I think that compressor was failing, as supported by the unusually high pressure on the low side, even when you refilled from empty. First impression was overfilling but it was there even when not overfilled! Flow volume directly causes the pressure drop across the orifice tube, so it should not be surprising that a failing compressor pumping less volume may have pressures on the low side that are too high. It would have been fun to see how you diagnosed a problem with the high side switch. Presumably the pump was working so hard to achieve low pressure on the low side that it overloaded itself. Or maybe the strange high pressures on the low side might have tripped the low side pressure switch? Thank you again for posting this video!
all parts stores have and will show you the guidelines of if you change a hose it needs x amount of Peg oil if change a compressor it can range anywhere from 2 oz to 6 oz depending on your car. they can tell you how many ounces of peg oilyou need to put in if you change your condenser. Most part stores will print off the whole list of fluid recommendations antifreeze oil transmission fluid gear oil ect fyi
Well I can tell some people now if you’re working on a Tahoe/Yukon the compressor is not coming out from the bottom. It gets stuck on the heater core lines.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Kade Kyson Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
If you are talking about the ac refrigerant oil, then you cant. This can only be done during the charging process or by evacuating the refrigerant, which is mixed with oil, then measuring the correct amount of oil and recharging it back in. If you installed a new compressor or other parts, oil would or could be added then also.
That's what I was wondering, can't find any details on it. My old compressor had a screw on it to close it up but the new compressor I bought to replace just has a small centered hole with no cap or screw in it.
I realize that this is a shade tree version AC fix but ideally, the extra tools etc... needed to really do the job right and end the guessing game as to how much PEG oil is or is not in your AC system, and especially if you do or do not still have debris in your system, are not all that expensive. You need a vacuum pump, (a cheap Vac Pump from harbor freight is only about $13.00), and to do a professional job, you really outta flush out the whole system, (a can of AC flush is about $18.00), especially if the compressor failed because that likely means there is all sorts of junk/debris in the tubes and hoses that will likely end up making the new compressor fail soon as well. And if you want to go all out, a decent set of AC gauges is only about $50.00. I mean think about it... You just spent a couple hundred dollars on a new compressor and a receiver dryer. Why skimp now...??? With a good lush, all the oil/metal/debris is now removed from the whole system and all the lines are hopefully flushed clean as well. Then the Vacuum comes in to play after all the new stuff has been installed, in order to make sure you have no leaks and to extract any remaining moisture from the system. Then you can cleanly and accurately add the PEG oil with that same vacuum pump by applying suction to the now closed system from a point on one side of the compressor, and syphoning the proper amount of peg oil, (since because of the flush, none is now present, you will end up adding exactly what the system is designed for because it is now in fact, a new system) from a Schrader valve on the other side of the compressor, effectively sucking the oil right to the compressor while doing so. You do this straight out of the bottle by placing a small rubber hose in one of the Schrader valve holes that has had the Schrader valve removed and applying vacuum until you have sucked out as much as recommended for your AC system. Then simply replace that Schrader valve and your system is ready to be recharged, and you, (or your mechanic), know exactly how much R 134 your vehicle now needs because it is in fact a completely empty and clean system. There are tons of RU-vid videos online, showing you how to do these things. Just sayin...
The cycling cutoff switch, what does it do? What causes it to go bad? What are the signs that this switch causes if it’s going or is bad? Can I jerry-rig it to work for at least 2 weeks, spring time down south in Texas is basically summer and summer is hell
so depending on the vehicle, you typically have at least 2 pressure switches, 1 high and 1 low, the high pressure switch tells the system the pressures are too high and will shut off the compressor, the low pressure switch does the same but cuts off when the system pressure gets too low. This truck also has a high pressure cut-off switch mounted directly on the compressor, It is actually a burst disc style and if the pressure in the compressor gets too high, it will blow the burst disc and this keeps the compressor from blowing up.
I know its been along time since you made this video but I have a question for you. I have the 2001 silverado and someone thought it was low on refrigerant and tried to put more in the system. It blew the high pressure valve on the compressor. I did not see one on the compressor that you show in the video. Did that one have that high pressure blow off valve?
Craig Anderson no but the lines and any other component not replaced must be flushed, if the compressor fails internally, it is common for small particles of the failed compressor to be circulated throughout the rest of the system, so if u install a new compressor and fire it up, you can circulate those bad particles right back into the new compressor and destroy the new compressor, the ac condenser is also worth considering replacing as it can easily hold these particles, especially the newer condensers that are parallel flow, these condensers cannot be flushed, the lines are usually perfectly fine to re-use as long as they are in good working order and properly flushed.
Hi, I have a pickup truck silverado 1500 2003. My question is how do I know if it needs only freon because the day before it was working well but the next day I turned the A/c on and it only blew regular air. I like your videos and the way you show. Thank you God bless you.
I hope you didn't change the whole compressor just to find it was the low pressure cutoff switch , which is located on the drier, the switch on the compressor is a hi pressure cutout
Great video of the removal and reinstalling of the a/c compressor, my truck is a 99 model I just swapped out the low pressure switch on the dryer but it didn't solve it, I believe it's the one on the compressor, thanks I hope it's similar to the one you did
Question is this what needs to be done if my ac belts keep breaking on me, I baught a new belt when it's on the truck doesn't turn on but soon as I take the ac belt off it turns on.
I have GMC Sierra 1500 1999 without A/C it blows hot also my heater core is bypassed I don’t know if that’s an issue with the A/c not working I can also see my heater core is tubeless as well ...?thanks for reading
Let me know what you guys find out they sent me a compressor that requires a pressure switch and my doesn't have one in the back and I want to know if I can still use it or will I need to get the correct one
Just bought a ac compressor and it says the compressor is precharged with 3 ounce of oil. and it says must add recommend amount and type.scan QR code for application specific oil type and charge do I still add oil I have a 00 Chevy suburban 1500 LT 5.3 4x4 front and rear AC
Had a/c compressor change by a friend got it back not blowing out air got under truck to check wire with test light and noticed the front wire does not work but back wire does but it appears the guy that changed my compressor did not install the plug in on the back side of compressor will this make a/c not work it comes on if I run a by pass wire from fuse box to the front plug but it stays on will not shut off I did it just to see if a/c was working and it did any suggestions? It’s for 01 chevy 2500hd 6.0L
I never understood your oil decision. why you were considering 2 ounces and chose 4 ounces when the compressor came with NO OIL in it and by replacing the accumulator, compressor, condenser etc, where would the other 4 ounces of oil be built up, or why would you only add 4 oz.? I ordered the complete system and they provided an 8 oz PAG 46 and said put it all in as that is what the system required by the book. You were not considering the 8, but wanted to only add 2 or 4 ounces. Why add less than required? Next, my old compressor had NO OIL come out of it, my accumulator was not heavy so it didn't seem to be saturated but still if none comes out, where did it all go? Next concern, i ordered another compressor, same brand. same supplier and when it came in they said it shipped without oil in it and said to add 180 ml, which i can't recall now but i think is less than 8 oz., same vehicle and units. Why was this amount on the same everything as the first set up? This is completely confusing when you compare 3 same units with 3 different oil amounts. If you could please explain a little further on this, i'm sure many readers would like to know the why's and the choices. thanks
Oil gets distributed in the system over time and cycles. When the system is off for a little while, oil pools in the components - condenser, evaporator, accumulator, and (most importantly) the compressor. When a compressor comes out dry and still turns, that means the system probably was leaking oil slowly, somewhere for a long time. Most gm systems are 8oz TOTAL. Evaporator will/should hold 3oz, compressor 3oz, condenser 1oz, and accumulator 1oz when the system is 'run in'. A heavy accumulator does NOT mean that it is full of oil. It probably was heavy from a water soaked desiccant bag (cus that is what it's job is). This is why it is important to measure the oil in a component that is removed. The oil added here is just a guess, and it is probably ok. Usually a delfi compressor has 8oz of oil shipped in it. You drain out and measure BOTH - the new comp oil and compare it to the old comp. If old is over 3oz, replace the overage amount in new. If old is under 3oz, put 3oz in the new....Adding too much oil will mess up the ability of refrigerant to change from a gas to a liquid - and it will - in time - destroy (even a new) compressor....Understand that oil flows around with the refrigerant, and pools in individual components differently when the system is off for a while. Refrigerant and oil lubricate the compressor. With the refrigerant removed/leaking, there is no less lubrication available for the compressor when it's running OR none when the system is open/leaking.
Also, when installing a complete system - you do not put all the oil in the compressor. It should be distributed in the way I mentioned in my earlier reply. PAG 46 has much less viscosity than PAG 150. 46 flows easier, and that is why your instructions may have said to put it all in the comp....BUT I would stray a little from that and distribute it a little bit....
Refrigerant oil can be very confusing as many times it comes down to a technicians technique and equipment used. The original manufacturer will have specs like oil type and amount and these specs should be followed. The confusion comes in due to several factors. The biggest factors depend on how the refrigerant was removed, how you charge your refrigerant, and what equipment you use. Most shops recycle and re-use refrigerant and they have a machine that can evacuate the old and recharge with oil as needed. This machine also can measure the oil removed and also install new refrigerant with oil during a recharge. While you always want to get as close to the total amount of oil specified by the vehicle manufacturer, some of it is an educated guess. If you are doing it yourself without the machine, the you are most likely charging the system with a can of refrigerant only without any oil. In this case you would want to add the oil to the component and nowadays the rule of thumb is add it to the compressor and let the compressor distribute it with the refrigerant. Also I think we lost a little but of audio on this video during editing and the shop that originally evacuated this and the amount of oil removed was left out. This specific compressor took a total of 8 ounces of pag 150 oil which is a little bit more rare, make sure you look up your compressors specific amount and viscosity as they are not all the same. We got to a total of 8 ounces from dividing the oil up into the components and then adding the rest of the oil during the recharge process. The other difference is if you are replacing all the components or say just the compressor orifice tube, & dryer, then you would flush out the other components and be starting out with zero oil, however in the and you still end up with 8 ounces of pag 150 total in the system. Also be careful on the year make and model, most all newer vehicle use a parallel flow condenser and it must also be replaced as it cannot be flushed properly.
3 different options based on the color of the switch, you would look it up based on teh year make and model, then match the switch based on color, this was a long time ago but I am pretty sure we removed the compressor to verify the switch was faulty and to match the color to order properly.
So I just replaced my orifice tube, accumulator, and in the process of recharging my system, my clutch starts grinding really bad. What would cause this?
Could be that your clutch is gapped properly. There shims(washers) to get the correct spacing for your compressor clutch. Just need a feeler gauge. RU-vid has videos about it.
Amber Ferrer Dealing the same thing run dye in the system and try to find the leak or take it somewhere to locate it. My leak ended up being in the evaporator core which is the worse possible place to be.
ok so that can be a tough spot to be in, I would first look very closely at all the ac parts and I would use a black light to look for dye, GM does add dye to the oil from the factory on some models and you might get lucky and find it, otherwise in a repair shop we can add smoke or compressed air to test for a leak, this is mostly found at a shop though, it may be worth having a shop look at it or otherwise you may need to add oil dye and a small amount of refrigerant to it and that refrigerant will not last long
@@meaty71ify yeah evaporator cores are one of least fun things to have to replace, bypassing is a common option chosen, living in the south though these summers are hot and hard to deal without ac.
@@williammeyerhofer you can just bypass it by connecting the 2 heater hoses together, they sell flush and bypass kits that can be used to do this without doing any major alterations to the vehicle.
Does anyone know what happens if you don't plug in the pressure switch sensor? I bought a compressor and the manufacturer says it's bypassed so it doesn't need the rear pressure switch sensor swapped. I just don't understand how it works Thanks in advance ☺️
Did your ac still work? Last week I put a compressor in my truck and didn’t put the switch and my ac compressor isn’t turning on. And I’m trying to diagnose what it could be and I’m worried if that is it since I know now that the ac compressor isn’t the issue.
I have a feeling that I need to replace everything on my 1998 Chevrolet Silverado! How much did this co$t the customer if you don't mind me asking. I need to save up some $$$. Knowledgeable video! Thank you in advance.
Probably close to a grand. My 2k gmc sierra compressor is out and I gota replace belt, belt tensioner, ac compressor, and then buy Freon, might have to have someone vacuum out the lines. Also I needa check for leaks. Total parts brand new, around $350- $400.
It is called PAG oil and simply lubricates the AC system. The bright yellow color is a fluorescent dye that it sometimes added, but the dye is optional. It glows under UV light to check if there is leaking.
So every single model vehicle should look up the oil as the compressor type depicts the type and amount of oil, I don't like posting what we used in this video as you must very the correct oil for sure on your exact model, instilling the wrong oil can easily ruin the job.
we cannot really answer this property without the exact year and which compressor style you have, I looked up a 2012 with 6.0L and 2 specs exist: With Rear AC total pag oil = 11 oz Without rear AC total bag oil = 7.1 oz
Michael no, it requires evacuating and also removing the entire compressor to be able to replace just that switch. Which again leads into the decision to just replace it,
no but depending on what year and model you have, the belt may be 1 piece, so if you have a separate ac belt and it came off, you can still run the engine, if the main belt is gone and no other belt is on the engine, then you will not be turning the water pump and you dont really want to run the engine,
Austin Belvin, I just did mine. I needed a 15mm shorty socket for the lower back and a 15mm wrench for the front. I had to get the bottom front from under the truck (2000 Silverado)
Safety wise yes. I don't think the liberal yuppies what ever you want to call the EPA and supporters will be too happy with greenhouse gasses going into the air. I bealive it might be different in some places but, not the U.S. same applies for propane and other properly unburnt excessive Hydrocarbons. Just giving you the heads up and save yah the headache!
I wouldn't deem the compressor bad right away unless it is very old and high mileage, otherwise GM has lots of noise issues and sometimes they can be cured by evacuating and recharging the system, as far as the condenser goes, similar deal, do a good visual inspection and if corroded then its not working well anyway, if the compressor is failing internally, then it can send small particles throughout the system and the condenser is an easy place to get stuck, replacement is the best option, if the exterior is in great shape and if teh condenser is not a parallel flow, then it could be flushed, new vehicles are using what is called a parallel flow and these cannot be flushed propeller and should be replaced.
if the system wasn't leaking the old compressor amount would help you match what amount to add to the new compressor so the system still has the correct amount of oil in the entire system ' it circulates ' too much or too little could cause the compressor to fail prematurely.
unless you are replacing ALL the other chambered components, it is important to add ONLY what the old compressor SHOULD have in it. That info is available in charts online. Too much oil will cause the new compressor to 'slug' and, while shortening IT'S life, be hard on belts, clutch engine idle, etc.
not really, some manufactures recommend replacing ever use but that gets ridiculous, many bolts are also suppose to be single use, in high precision areas like engine cylinder head bolts, it is very important to replace them each time, on a plastic push-pin if it still works, we re-use them
so if only the ac belt and the water pump belt is still on and working, then you can run it, if it does not start, then something else is wrong, unless it overheated and the engine locked up but that would be rare and you would have to run it without the water pump belt.
