Chinese amazon diesel heater with over 2000 hours of use. what caused this severe carbon build up? ordered wrong gaskets so had to make my own, also replaced atomizer and glow plug
I thought that was the formula for you tube videos. Dozens of videos proving that if you burn dirty, contaminated oil, you get a dirty contaminated heaters. Reminds me of the alchemists hoping to turn lead into gold.
Thank you, Ya they are a debatable topic. That one has the controller you can fully customize my other doesn't is non adjustable. Alot are and some aren't, I ordered a new ecu and controller same as the one in the video so hopefully can tweak it also
Thanks for the educating dismantling showed of! For this carbon glogging evaluation, it's best to avoid prevent forming in short time of period, just use the pure diesel fuel for completing the clean burning with optimal stochio air/fuel ratio. Doing so you'll get longer using period AND better process for better emissions.😊
Waste motor oil was a mistake to do definitely clogs things, I'll be dipping back into the heater soon since fall is Here to give another cleaning since the first cleaning last fall I did have some waste motor oil left in the fuel tank so I suspect it'll be a little dirty but nothing like the first cleaning
I have about 570 hours of operation on my diesel heater. I opened it up last October before the cold season. Operating 100% on red diesel fuel, there was no carbon build up at all either in the burn chamber or on the internal aluminum fins. I run it at H2 or H3 setting most of the time but set it to H6 maximum for about 15 minutes in the morning. Since new about 3 seasons ago, the heater quit when one fuel pump stopped because of particles in the fuel. I changed to a new pump with a filter before the pump and added a 12 volt LED light above the fuel tank near the pump to see my fuel level clearly from 30+ feet away. It starts and runs nicely. Cost $115 for the unit when new and was worth it.
Ya I enjoy mine it's been handy as heck for what I use it for, this year had startup issues at first the pump had stuck closed but I didn't record any of that process of diagnosing but ended up forcing vaccum through the pump to the tank to free the plunger and been no problem since getting it loose
@@ChippyOutdoors I enjoyed watching your video! I watch as many as I can on this subject because I'm fighting a combustion smell issue after what I considered a responsible install inside a cargo trailer.. my all-in-one 8kw Amazon-special came setup for 4300 RPM / 5.4 Hertz at the high setting, and I'm running the exhaust through one of those thru-hull exhaust ports.. one for intake, one for exhaust.. I see a lot of posts of people saying that they're tuned rich out of the factory... have you run into any CO issues with the settings you're running?
I never ran a carbon monoxide detector in the porch, only times I have noticed any issues with smell diesel exhaust is if the wind blows at just the perfect direction so in my case what I did was run a longer exhaust pipe so it has to travel to the furthest wall which is open to wind any direction of the wind or breeze and never had a issue since, another big problem is the is junky e haust clamps they come with on your Heater side of the exhaust they don't seal the best so if you have many sharp bends it affects flow. In my case I have 2 - 90s, where as before I had 1 90 and went straight out from the heater outside causing the back drafting problem. How is your exhaust ran to the through wall adapter and there after
In the fall ill be tearing back into it for a cleaning getting it ready for winter, I'm curious how the carbon is since I ran motor oil/diesel first tank through it to burn off what was left in the tank then clean diesel throughout the winter after that
I like to clean my burner with oven cleaner(cold type, not the type that needs to be hot). Followed up by letting it sit overnight in a warm lye bath. Works great, cleans out the entire burner including that atomizer mesh that the glow plug sits in.
I have six of these heaters. Run diesel only and the problems of carbon build up being caused by low idle heating. If the machine are run at full heat capacity for a short time before shutting down and/ or running for a short time ( 10. Minutes ) on kerosene this keeps the combustion chamber clean. The other problem I have is the fan motors wearing out. I used to rebuild the motors with new brushes and bearings ( about $5 each ) but can now buy just the motor for about $15 and use the original fans and mounting. The German fan assembly used to cost about $160 Australian to replace. I find the Chinese heaters a lot more suited to our conditions, probably due to the fuel quality, and have a great running life out of them. The parts for Chinese heaters are cheap and readily available and usually post free, parts from the US can cost over $35 postage which is mostly more than the parts. I have been running these heaters ( German and Chinese ) for about 10 years and keep all the spare parts on hand and can rebuild them in about an hour. A rebuild kit for a Chinese heater costs about $5 and includes gaskets, screen for glow plus and a fitting tool for the screen and filter for the fuel pump.
So the one in this video 3rd winter season so far and fan bearings still going but they are starting not to sound so healthy. Thanks for info on motor I never had to replace yet but sounds alot easier then just changing bearing! I run straight diesel in mine now after tinkering with wmo the first season I'm still feeling reprocussions from that. Was having some start up problems sometimes earlier in the year but seem to have cleared up so far but I do have a spare burn chamber for it just incase
@@ChippyOutdoors nearly all my start up problems stem from the glow plug screen having a solid carbon build up. Running a 1 to 20 mix of kerosene diesel does help to clean these but they are easy and cheap to replace. Be careful of running straight kerosene as this does not lubricate the pump which will cause early pump failures. I have also found that long combustion exhaust pipes and slight voltage drop in power supply will also add to carbon build up. Keep warm!
Definitely have heard many different mixture captrations people have came up with. I wouldn't venture down that road again personally and anyone who has tried it and ran for a day a week a month or all season saying how successful it was on a stock heater I would like to see the burn chamber and know the reliability of the heater during a winter season. But side note dual fuel heaters have been out for a bit
@@ChippyOutdoors funny I live where I lucky to wear a jumper twice a year. But I have travel to other part of Australia, where we frozen our ass off in a thin wall van. Cheers Graham.
Running on 1 and 2 is a less complete burn. I ran mine on 1 for 2 months plus 24/7, and now it is acting up, not wanting to start error code E-8, going to open it up, to see if it is blocked. 1500 hours in!
Mine recently started having issues starting in out -30 ambient nights, I'm guessing it's carboned up a bit from testing 75/25 90/10 diesel to oil mixes earlier in the year after the last clean out. When it warms up in next day or 2 going to pull it apart again and clean it out again
LOL...Yup, that chamber looks familiar (all that carbon) Odd how it works perfect for years for some people, who never make videos about it... but everyone who makes a video has issues... haha. I ordered that controller for my heater... I hope it works on mine. Good job cleaning it out ! I've had mine apart enough to tell you that it's easier to get the plug out after taking the fan off, if you have the hex glow plug.... However, if you have that little tool, then it doesn't really matter 👍 Something I thought I'd mention, not because of concern, but just fyi.... If the heater isn't working well, gasses from the combustion process can make their way into the inlet side of the heater (where the fan is). So if it isn't working well, and you have a leaky glow plug seal, fuel line seal or gasket, you can have gasses blowing out the hot air duct. I know this because of all the experiments I've been doing. When it's not working well you can hear a fluttering noise . Basically it is backfiring out the chamber into the fan area. Highly unlikely that this pose any serious rick when burning diesel, and I haven't had my carbon monoxide alarm ever go off, but it's good to know. I doubt that you want to actually test this, but I have been told that you can burn 2/3 waste oil, 1/3 diesel in these if you crank your fan speed up to 5000 and run your pump at no more than 3hz... If my controller is able to control the ratio, I will be testing it for sure. Cheers !
To bits and pieces I have learnt this year is new motor oil burns better then waste oil, fluttering 100% is back firing I have experienced that, I found running rich 5.7 to 6.5hz seemed to work when things were getting plugged up to get it running but that was just my experience. I would run clean motor oil again but that kind of defeats the purpose of burning waste oil lol. There's a fellow if you haven't come across his videos David McLuckie who does some whacky and extensive tests on these heaters also
@@ChippyOutdoors That's interesting... I burnt some new stuff as well, in a mix, and thought it burnt better... but thought I must be crazy... I mean... I'd think it would be harder to burn. I agree with the running rich... I can't tune mine, so I choke the air feed down to get it started and sometimes keep it running. I have seen a bunch of David's videos ... great guy, great videos. Very thorough and entertaining !
K there are 2 different ecus also next time you have yours apart when you take the black cover off way I noticed to check is if the controller has a plastic strip down the middle kind of zig zags then it won't take a adjustable controller, if I could show you it I would. Searching Amazon will bring but the w different controllers though if you are curious
Lol wish the best! Did you order the 5 button color lcd all black frame ? I have one on the way but so far I'm not needing it with the heater I use for my porch the rotary seems to be working the cats meow so far but we're in single and warmer double negative digits Atm , -30c will be another story here in the prairies
I never tried petrol in mine, it's used for heating more then a project during the winter months so down time I'm not keen on lol but wmo I haven't had success alot more headaches then positives for simplicity
Hello,i use 2 liter of diesel,2.5 liter of used hydraulic oil and 0.5 liter of gasoline,mixed very well and thats it. I allready used 5 tanks and heater works perfectly.When starts is not fume at all. Maybe you should try this mix Cheers
I have a variety of dental tools so I tried what I could to reach into every slot/orfice I could that would potentially have carbon. If I take it apart I like @loweredexpectations way he made a bracket to really open things up
That doesn't look too painful. I had tje e03 code... Changed the glow plug but couldn't get the atomizer out... It wouldn't work. Then got an 8mm screw and changed the atomizer and plug again.... Doesn't work. 😢 Smokes a bit internally when i prime... Then gives e03 again. Do you reckon i have to do a full clean of the combustion chamber? The bugger will be getting it all out because of how its fitted and sealed through the floor. Cheers 🍻
Did you burn anything beside diesel in it? Mine was fairly Carboned up from burning waste motor oil for starters, it's been a year since I went into the heater and will shortly again before winter for a cleanup but the atomizer I believe I used a metal pick with a point to hook and work it out but it should come out for starters, moving further into it when I opened mine it was carboned up pretty darn bad at the beginning of the burn chamber where the air and fuel mix, if it doesn't ignite properly I believe but don't quote me the e03 comes up again sorry it's been a year almost since cleaning it. So it the heater doesn't ignite and burn properly and or not limited to snuffing it self out it'll toss a code and shut down for safety measures
@@ChippyOutdoors Thanks for that. I have only used diesel but some may have been a bit old. Had the heater 2 years... living full time in the van. ... But had 6 months in Australia. So the heater has had 18 months or just over of use. I'm gunna have to strip the bugger I reckon 🙄. Tempting to just buy a new one.. Might be quicker. I've knackered my back! Though getting better. Thanks again! 🙏👊
Back injuries suck buddy I live with them permnately my self. If you are taking apart I suggest ordering new gaskets unless you happen to have some when you ordered the glow plug. I found 2 different styles on Amazon for those gaskets 1 works 1 does not as the cutout of the material is totally different. But if you are in a pinch I don't recommend it but when I did mine I had used rtv silicone because I ordered the wrong gasket and the proper ones last year were on back order but I did order the proper ones when I pull it apart again shortly for an inspection. How do you find the heater works for heating your van? This one I use for heating our porch during the winter months since electric ceramic heater cannot keep up. Also I use a portable for my ice fishing shelter same heater but it's in a case instead
@@ChippyOutdoors I got gaskets with the glow plug sets... so have two sets. Hopefully they fit! The heater otherwise works wonders. only have it on the lowest setting. The van is insulated with 3 layers of silver bubble wrap. I'm still seriously considering ordering a new one 🤔 🤣 I'm actually looking for a flat, apartment. So a new heater in the van to then sell wouldn't be bad. Then I'd Hopefully fix this one and put it in a smaller camping / day van. I'll sleep on it. Just running the engine now to have a hot blast. Won't be too cold tonight though. 👍👊
@Dober-Max awesome glad it works good for your application! Our porch isn't insulted far as i know and has windows on 3 sides and 1 side is against the house and it's working hard when it's -30 to -40c ish running full blast with some minor tweaks to the ecu. In my ice fishing hut it's hit and miss noticed around -15 it starts to cool off but I have an explanation of that setup in a video last winter. Just checked amazon and looks to be 3 different gasket options and if I have it correct the multi pack ones it is the 4 hole butnl thicker gasket. If I could post a picture in the reply I would but I can post a community post if you like
@@ChippyOutdoors I made the error of listening to the guys buring waste oil. I made a God Awful mess . I suppose it can be done with certain settings but I want no part of it. For 130 dollars I pulled that old gooey heater out and tossed it on the maybe some day fix pile and installed a fresh unit from Amazon
Ya I don't blame you, I tried 10% wmo and 90% diesel and right out of the gate after cleaning it I ran into startup problems, so I ran it till it was all gone and never looked back. Clean motor oil works least on a 90/10 split but I think there's too much stuff mixed in with wmo it makes it run horrible. Even using wmo starting my fire pit last week out of curiosity and it wouldn't burn, new motor oil would. Wmo would sort of boil and maybe burnt off later but the fire was too big to see it do any thing, now I have used wmo in sawdust to start fires and also oil drip into the wood stove for more heat and to prolong the wood burn 15 years ago or so ago now
Being that it’s such a pain to take it apart and clean it. Why do you bother to burn used? Oil is supposed to just clean diesel? Seems like in the long run it wouldn’t be worth it.
Diesel being oil it's been tried by many with quite a few people having claimed success stories on burning waste motor oil because diluting it cuts the cost of buying straight heating fuels/oils, then that rabbit hole brings up a bunch having troubles burning it also, other folks have tried some pretty wild experiments with them and cocktail mixes. But over all yes made for diesel/kerosene/heating oils but all the similar category of the type of fuel. But after my experiences I wouldn't try running it again unless found a Way to successful burn it without needing an experimental lab to do so since waste motor oil is easy to aquire for most People least where I am. So long run more headaches in my opinion
I have a Chinese diesel heater that worked for 2 hours, then it threw a code for high temp sensor. I bought 3, from three different suppliers, because if I couldn't trust the first one, what makes me think I can trust the second or the third... I ordered new glow plug with gaskets too. Still waiting. So 15 days later, I put in a high temp sensor, and it immediately threw 2 ridiculous codes that were not true. Over-power and under-power, my a$$. So I'm spending another $40 for a motherboard and a controller. If it doesn't work THIS TIME, there will be a sledgehammer party at Peter's house.
That's freaking shitty! I been seeing more and more people having issues with their heaters recently, the 2 I use been good except just for yearly maintainince and inspections. Hopefully you get your problem all sorted out!
Did you change controllers or did it come with your heater? And what are you calling level 10? Try to describe your controller also, as some are limited to what you can do to change settings
@@ChippyOutdoors Coming with the machine. I mean just the ventilator speed and the temperature up down I can settings. Doesn't work other settings option.
There are a few different controllers without seeing which one you have I can't say if you can or cannot get into the settings, without being able to share in the comments pictures of the different ones I would strongly suggest do some Google searching or even on other RU-vid channels
I'll have to keep that in mind, when I was messing with wmo I'm guessing it was already getting too plugged up after the first few hours it would just fart burp gurgle so my low was set at 2.0 for the longest time with diesel so I left it there and the on the high I was finding 5.5 to 5.8 would run after it got hot the burping cleared up but I think it was safe to say it was already Carboned up since I had ran already 10L through it of 50/50 mix, next tank diluted it to down To 25/75 before pulling it apart for a cleaning since it would hardly run at that point
@@ChippyOutdoors Using a flue gas analyser on mine I found that 4.6-4.7hZ and 4500 rpm fan gave best Carbon Monoxide reading around 30-40 parts per million. I suspect nearly everyone's unit will run slightly differently, especially as there are two different pump volumes. At 1.7hz and 1500 rpm CO was around 10ppm. Even small changes in pump speed made a massive difference in Carbon monoxide produced. I've got controller issues so have ordered a new Controller, Harness and Motherboard (about $50) so if nothing else I'll have spare parts. I've only managed to run about 10 hours due to the controller playing up.
Whoa I'm impressed how other folks have dug deep and deeper into this heaters, I have no fancy testers like that. For my applications everything is vented outside or heater is outside and ducts vented inside. My 1 setup for the porch uses the original exhaust pipe and muffler to an actual Webasa exhaust pipe all down hill to vent past and away from the porch. I will say having that webasa vs Chinese diesel heater exhaust pipes the Chinese pipe really sucks for flexibility. My other heater sits on a 2x4 outside as a portable unit with the air intake and also hot side vented into the ice fishing shack. That socks about the controller! Different mobo's are needed depending on the controllers some jive some don't, on the technical side of compatibility i don't know the differences I just know first hand not all are cross compatible. I have 2 styles of mobos and 3 styles of controllers and tried swapping 2 different controllers that are compatible with 1 style board and they are not, non adjust boards from what I've learnt and this may vary from person to person experiments but non adjustable has a plastic squiggly piece down the middle and the adjustable mobo does not. Non adjustable also has a 2 pin connector on the mobo which the adjustable has a 3. 3 pin connector only has 2 wires that do line up with the 2 pin but do not work and the flip side the adjustable 3 pin connector mobo will not work with the 2 pin for me it threw a over voltage code. All of other connections are the same. Also number of wires on the power side varied from mobos. Wish I had take pictures and videos but it was cold as heck out and I was going fishing 5he next day so I didn't do a detailed video just a quick summary video with updates to the portable heater
Have you checked out @loweredexpectations ? He did a whole ton of testing on these and even cleaning them out. But it seems once that carbon is built up it's better to take apart and chip it out. I'll be posting a video this week on another yearly tear down and cleaning
