One way you can help determine the quality of electronics is by looking at the brand of the electrolytic capacitors on the board. When you have a board spun up like this you can specify pretty much any quality of components and how much they're willing to spend on the capacitors is a good indicator of the rest of it. These capacitors are lelon which are decent mid-range capacitors. They're not top of the line like nippon chemicon Rubycon etc but definitely not bottom of the barrel no name ones which is what you'll almost certainly see on the boards from the cheaper heaters
Definitely a area for me to look into to. I do look a bit at PCD layout but not knowable enough to make talk about quality by looking at the components. Seems like an area for me to learn. But mid range parts here seems fair given what I’ve seen with the rest of the heater
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yeah that's why the capacitor check is such a handy one. With just a handful of brands in mind you can come to a pretty good idea of how much money the company put into the production of the board.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Definitely..... If you see Nippon Chemicon caps, it's generally a sign of serious quality, designed to last.... But it's also really easy to fake. You tend to only see the real ones in stuff that is of high grade and manufactured in countries like Australia, USA, Japan, New Zealand and Germany (there are exceptions of course)
Interesting. This model did not exist this Winter when I converted a cheap diesel heater for high altitude operation with in my Ford Transit. Would have been tempted by an off the shelf sub $1000 model like that. But 2KW is plenty, don't need 4KW. And I know my CDH inside out now 😆 (conversion documented on my Raphvan blog)
As one of those many horrible Americans with a gasoline Transit...the idea of being able to tap into the fuel tank instead of having to constantly fill a small heater tank for my diesel heater is certainly enticing.
That’s a interesting prospect, because for Europe, it’s normal to tap into the fuel tank because almost every vehicle is diesel in the context of vans. I guess in the states more a gas and you need a separate smaller tank?
@@MispronouncedAdventures yep. You know that skinny square I believe 10 liter tank that comes with the Chinese diesel heater kits? I've got that tank sitting on the passenger seat step sandwiched in between the door and the base of the seat. Heater is under the seat.
Transit owner here too with same need. Would have been tempted by this sub $1000 heater, but it was not available last winter. So I converted a cheap diesel heater to gasoline / high altitude. Worked like a charm but required a lot of measurements to get it nailed and, hopefully, reliable on the long term. (conversion documented on my Raphvan blog)
Ebspar, Webasto and Autoterm offer these Air heater for Gasolie, too. Yes, they are more pricey - in some instances it might be woth the price. On the other side: Evaluating/comparing on of their Gasoline model to a Diesel model might reveal what's required to change on a China heater.
I asked about this, as the fuel type characteristics are very different. They mention the way the different temperature sensor/flameout sensor is designed. It will act very quickly in the event. That being said gasoline heaters I have been made by western brands for quite awhile now. But I did notice of the different characteristics when the heater was igniting a lot more of a pulsing woosh noise on the gasoline version on start-up. Personally, I prefer diesel
@@MispronouncedAdventures yes, and with that said my caravan runs on LPG which is even worse. Looking into converting it, my major issue is that my refrigerator runs so good and cheap on LPG.
for the fractionally challenged. US measurements aren't hard. 1 inch = 25.4 mm 1 foot = 30.5 cm 1 lbs = 454 grams 1 fl ounce = 30ml to convert feet to meters divide by 3.28 so 16,000 feet is 4878 meters for temp to convert F to C subtract 32 and then divide the remainder by 1.8 so when an American says damn its hot its 90 out! thats 32 C.
I have but not yet installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my American Ford Econoline camper van. Since Diesel vans are so freakishly rare and expensive in the US, I was hoping for a gasoline option. Giving serious consideration to getting one of these Velit heaters
Definitely the opposite in Europe finding a petrol/gasoline van is very difficult/impossible. This does seem to be a good gasoline option at a reasonable price point, not as cheap as the Chinese diesel ones, but definitely a pretty respectable price
And at the beginning I thought you were talking about some Chicken fajitas. The Company should of known you would take it apart. Nice to see that someone has created a heater with all the good bits, and the bits that most people buy later. Good testing on the heaters, just wondering if you knew if it used the same amount of power when in use. Great video, Hope to see more.
The email came across from them as a more personal one directed at my channel opposed to some of the more generic collaboration emails sent out on mass. So I presume they had seen or some across my other Hester videos were they get pulled apart! I agree, I generally see it as a heater which has higher quality Chinese components and far better made apart from the flashes on the casting, which are not too important. I think the controller needs some work to be a bit smarter for the price point you’re paying and the wiring loom has been insulated / covered cable and not tape wrapped which looks cheap. As for power out put on testing. I did the best to make sure that the heaters are running equivalent power output. However, the Velit heater didn’t have the option for display kw output.
I use 5 chinese diesel heaters, and I have bought the metal housing units. The price has tripled in the last 6 monts. The accessories, fuel tanks and dosing pump are mostly garbage, but the core heater and electrics work well.
Aye, having been using the Chinese diesel heaters for years they are great when you have a good one. The accessories as you said are mostly rubbish and I’ve replaced them. My Chinese diesel heater has over 4000 hours now and only had £6 of new bearings
Love this one. I have an 37 ft Class A gas I was working to fit a $2K Wabasto in there but this one is in my neighborhood and 1/3 the price so worth looking into , Thanks
Nice Tear Down content Alex 😁 just off subject did you mention in one of your winter expedition videos that at one point the floor of the van got down to - 10 degrees Celsius just that didn't you install water pipes under the floor during the build ?, and have you had any issues with them freezing ?
Good memory, remembering those pipes. I assumed those would freeze. It is one of the things I wish I could change. So I drained the cold water system and moved two smaller water containers temporarily to the other cabinet for the trip, which is kept warm by the diesel heater instead.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Thanks Alex got the same set up re pipes running under floor and looking at taking van over to Iceland next winter so trying to iron out any potential issues before hand
Even IF there was a gasoline van I wanted to convert, I would go for a diesel heater since it can run on cheap/low taxed diesel here, in that case I would use a separate tank for the heater.
Minimalist yankee with a Chinese diesel heater installed in an 05 gas burning town country/grand caravan. For a $500 savings I will carry a second tank with diesel for my heater thanks.
Interesting. waiting for more (ya I know- whaa "more sir") Have an old gas heater from my VW van waiting repair. And bought a chinese after seeing your report. Not up and running yet though.
I don’t disagree it would be interesting comparison . although to counter that point, diesel is more calorific than petrol. Petrol may be cheaper, but heater running on it will produce less heat For the same quantity of fuel.
@@MispronouncedAdventures good point, but it comes down to how that calorific energy is liberated. If the burner is more efficient on petrol than diesel then this is another factor to consider.
Thank you very much. It’s not the most of interesting of set ups but it’s Huawei E5577 4G router which is connected to a Tp-link travel router, which is what all the Wi-Fi enabled items in the van I connected to
@destinationscratch9189 it’s been pretty reasonable without external antenna (which this router has ports for) it’s been on my list of things to do for about a year. I’m sure it would certainly improve it.
I use it at all elevation I’ve can drive but realistically being in Europe. There aren’t many drivable places that are “high altitude” I don’t see why there there is be an issue unless the OEM from Ford bits used some odd bore pipe. The diameter would be dictated by the bore of the pipe / pick up used. The official Espar kit is 2mm bore with is the same as the Espar and Webasto normal 2mm bore hardline fuel like. Which is more common now in Chinese heater too. I understand how pipe bore could effect a pump, but I don’t see how high elevations would effect the fuel pumps. Sure high elevations effects burn , but not sure I see how the pump would be effected
Unfortunately not, it’s doesn’t suit my needs running primarily on gasoline which is don’t use in Europe for vans. plus for me it’s controller isn’t that advanced compared to my current ones And annoyingly it only displays Fahrenheit. Components wise, it should be fine, looking at it. having looked at many heaters
@@MispronouncedAdventures totally understandable. I do wonder what it would take to control via a microcontroller (like Arduino). It probably wouldn’t be hard except it could take quite a bit of time to reverse engineer it. I’m doing this with the Maxxfan and would love to have them controlled together. Thanks for the honest review.
Both run the exhaust above 451F on high, the flame point of paper. Don't park over leaves, pine needles or other fine flammables. And none of these heaters really like the exhaust tube bent very much.
exhaust gas temperatures when leaving the burn chamber is high. It not going to issue for igniting leaves and so on but the time of hit the ground from when mounting in a vehicle format. I have thermal camera footage in other videos which show the temperature of the ground from the exhaust. The ground is only warm at best You is correct on exhaust some of the manual booklets bring up maximum total degree in angles / pipe bents and a maximum total length. Longer and/or bending exhaust restrict air flow and mess up the heaters fuel to air ratio
Combustion wise. I use the stock one. most expensive models like a Autoterm don’t use air intake filters are all. you want to be wary using intake filters. The filter are tuned to not have much restriction on the intake or exhausts. Putting a restriction like a filter which block too much air with effect the burn and could lead to sooting / coking up
That’s good to hear because Autoterm had been doing that for a few years Now. I was surprised Espar hadn’t switched over to induction/brushless yet. Is it a particular new model or just a updated version of the normal heater?
They do that everywhere designed in one country manufactured where it’s cheaper. Well this particular heater they designed their own proprietary burn chamber in the US. It’s all normal conventional parts from China which I think is bit of a deceitful the way they advertise it. Because the rest of the components aren’t designed by them.
Yes I've watched most of your videos . Next time you go to a cold climate bring sone " Gas line antifreeze " with you and pour about 250 ml in the radiators reservoir to stop Coolant freezing . I would only suggest that as a last resort measure if your Coolant was to go slushy again . I think you're still using that pink one that works down to -40C if I am not mistaken . I enjoy your videos. Cheers 🍻 mate
Very much depends on the setting using it on, but their website listed as Lowest power setting as 0.053 gal/h / 0.2L L/h Highest power setting as 0.14 gal/h / 0.52L L/h
07:55 You said 'petrol'. 😉 Also, terribly disappointed that you weren't wearing a pith helmet in Borneo. Not very colonial of you! 😂 Very thorough review by the way. You were obviously in your element. Did you have to redo some of the shots after you suddenly realised it was 5am and the camera battery had died hours before while you were tinkering away? I'm sure your beard got steadily longer throughout the video! 😂
Darn! Hard to not say Petrol! Haha yea! The pith helmet might not have fit in my rucksack. I definitely have to make sure that my battery don’t run out when recording I can play around for hours. As for the beard probably yes, there was a gap in the video due to waiting for a new pump to arrive
Probably not, Heaters normally pretty specific dosing pumps for different units. This uses a .65 pump. Chinese diesel heater 5Kw us .22, 2kw use 16kw and bunch of others as well
@@MispronouncedAdventures all of them have less surface area than they should if they wanted to be more efficient, they are basically brute forcing the 4kw through the thing.
@deltacx1059 pretty much, these ones are honest about them being 4kw, since there are based off the Espar 4D design. Unlike the CDH which are based off a 4kw and claim 5kw or even the 8kW
Both. Esper got a US$ fine of 14.9M for price fixing in the past There units are well made, the original design and a good warranty I hear. But cost more than they should I my view
Both. Esper got a US$ fine of 14.9M for price fixing in the past There units are well made, the original design and a good warranty I hear. But cost more than they should I my view
I don’t know about todays Eberspächer having installed 100+ of the older version and have a D3 under my van that’s been running for 23 years, its got a lot of hours on it first clean out was 2 years ago and had no soot deposits new glow plug & gauze and gaskets it’ll probably out last me. They are very reliable and parts although are available they are very expensive I can agree, Eber engine heaters not so reliable especially the DW3 where the intake blasts the motor bearing with crap. It’s also 23 years old…
@@MispronouncedAdventures You are probably correct looking at everything today, if had too replace I would likely go with Russian version its nearly the same as the older Ebers at a better price, I noticed the US heater did not have a CE marking which means its not coming to the EU or at least until they get it certified
Reverse penalty? Most likely just a small component on the PCB if you are lucky . As to which one I don’t know. The likelihood you would need a new PCB, unless you were particularly good at dissoldering components and you identify which one/s where the issue and you replaced it for for like replacement. Worst case you knackered the entire board and easier probably just getting a new ECU
Just found your channel, and I appreciate your indepth explanations. Question: Is it ok to mix gasoline with diesel, in a Chinese DIESEL Heater? The reason I ask is I have about 200 gallons of 30yr.diesel that clogs up the burn chamber very rapidly. I'm thinking about mixing gasoline, but I am not sure if gasoline will help resolve my problem, Or worst melt the unit? Maybe a 5-50% mix? Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I’ve heard over people doing Mixes like that in Chinese diesel heater but it might need some tuning to get a good or soot up pretty quick. They might be worth posting on some of the Facebook for the heaters. I’m sure there is a group for alternative fuels
Kerosene in a 50/50-75/25 diesel to kerosene mix works... Kerosene burns relatively cleanly diesel tends to soot, I run 50/50-75/25 in my big jet heaters all winter long (basically the same thing without the heat exchanger and secondary blower) when I ran straight diesel I'd have to clean them 2-3 times a month switched to 75/25-50/50 for normal heating use and 25/75 at the end of the month and I go 100% kerosene for the last heat of the season with no need for cleaning (mine burn completely clean during my last heat of the season on the straight kerosene before storing empty).
I'd recommend filtering the diesel with a water block filter and returning it back to the tank for a day or 2 the fuel cycling through the tank will basically remix the diesel (possibly non ulsdf if off road diesel pre 2005) which would explain the clogging... As would water in the fuel or algae growth in the diesel ( both get removed by water block filter). If it's been sitting that long you do need to remix it and water filter it especially if it was stored in a metal fuel tank
I do mention throughout the video, the similarities between the components used here and the Chinese made diesel heater. However, the Chinese diesel heaters won’t run petrol unless you buy a very specific and hard to get hold of ones unlike this unit if petrol / gasoline was a particular need then your options are very limited. 8kW units, though are not 8kW. Chinese diesel heaters 5kW are based on the design of the 4kw Espar 4D. Advertised 8kW units are just 5kw units which are based of a 4kw heater design, using a higher tune which is not really getting a real 8kW.
Not sure how that’s the moral here. since the pump was DOA which wasn’t disassembled. it worked without a problem on petrol and there was a fault with the diesel ECU
The fact that you can't just use either fuel without tearing your heater apart is what ruins it for me. Why would you not just put a damn switch on it so that way you can fill the tank with whatever you want whenever?!
So that’s an interesting point and l thought the same because there is no hardware differences between the ECU versions ( as far as i’m aware ) it’s only preloaded software based on the ECU. But I also found the current controller quite limiting. I don’t really see why they haven’t or don’t have the option. Hopefully on the newer versions of the controller it could have the option to change it between fuel types. Maybe it’s a business decision
We need to figure out these diesel heater controllers. I had one that was completely user tunable. I was able to swap in a 65 dosing pump plug and play. And then adjust fuel to air ratio to burn expired ethanol hand sanitizer. I got 1400 gallons for free😂
That might be my British speaking. Jubilee Clip is a genericised name for a worm drive hose clamp. The United Kingdom, Ireland and some of the our former British colonies, “Jubilee Clip” as a brand name dominated the market to the extent that Jubilee Clips tend to be known almost exclusively by their brand name and not hose clamp.
@@MispronouncedAdventures wow yup that's exactly what I'm using not. It's heartbreaking when it's almost tight enough then those worm gears tear through the band
Made in china for sure as it same on the box and as are most things, but it seem they did design the combustion chamber themselves and get it made there. The rest of the components seem better quality than most cheaper Chinese heaters
I’m not quite sure what you’ve said? I presume you meant “up our” opposed to “u ur” whilst I think I say the video for the price is it is quite expensive, but if your requirement is to own petrol/gasoline, you’ll struggle to find a heater as cheap as that to run gas / petrol. As the Webasto or Espar units are so much more expensive than that. If you needed it for diesel, then like a different story, I would go for one of the Chinese heaters instead.
Looking at it the only part I can see which might be designed in the US is there proprietary burner. The rest is based off the Espar 4D / Chinese heater
Great data, now lift some weights. Your arms are distracting from you content. Noodle arms are something men look at. Just lift bro and your content will soar. Keep the noodle arms and disenfranchise men. It's your call. You have amazing info, so back it with confidence in the form of self care. 🥰🥰
Glad you found the data useful but I don’t need to lift weights or am I Disenfranchising men? I work as an expedition leader, take clients and guide all over the globe in extreme environments for weeks on end, carry heavy packs, trek long distances, started rock climbing over decade ago, physically I’m pretty good. I don’t need that type of weight lifting muscles weighting me down, they always seem to struggle in the environments I work in when they’ve just built a body in gym about showing muscle.
Some of the Chinese Heaters can be tuned, and some people have got far cleaner burns in different on lower settings. But many people have also messed up the heaters that wait and have them soot up quicker. Whilst I think my testing method is pretty inaccurate, at least it was consistently inaccurate.
@@MispronouncedAdventures But what I am kind of getting out of your measurements that PPM amount is lower when it is in full power and higher in low power, kind of weird in my mind, but I think they are just tuned for full blast and not for low?
You can get great quality manufactured product out of China. You just need to be prepared to pay more for it. Keep an eye on their QA, and secure your supply chain. I've been experimenting with these things for a while. And 3 things totally blow things away in terms of reliability... First 8KW is insane for a unit based on the same casting as a 5kw German unit(run it at 4-5kw, and 7ish for burn cycles) . Second, get the burner tube powder coated in extreme heat coating (used for race car exhausts). The coating keeps the burn chamber way hotter and stops soot buildup almost totally (and only cost me $30). Third.. As the exhaust cools over the heat exchange fins, soot and gunge deposits. So powder coat that in pyrolytic oven powdercoat and make a tweak to the software to the heater goes absolutely full tit every 20 or so hours of use for 15 minutes or so... It burns off all the junk and they stay spotlessly clean inside.
It’s wasn’t Webasto the Air Top design is completely different. It’s the Espar / Eberspacher Airtonic line. This Chinese use the expired patient of the Airtonic for the Chinese units.
I wonder if the differences in diesel between Europe and the United States are what caused the problem. Based on the research I've done the diesel fuel in Europe contains lubricity modifiers that US diesel doesn't have.
It’s should be too important, people run other type of fuel like kero in diesel heaters without too much issue. But introducing thought. I felt it might be a software issue as the burn is pretty clean / running fine to start with, then a flame out and restart and then end up smoking.
News flash.. all chinese diesel run on petrol.. i run 30 percent waste oil, 60 percent diesel or heating oil, and 10 percent petrol.. gobs of heat and no soot ever...
You can run petrol into a normal diesel and it will be burn for sure, it’s petrol, it’s going to burn but it’s not going to run well. Most use a different burn chamber and different ECU settings. Did you tune your mix?
Indeed, not sure where their proprietary burn, chamber is manufactured. but I guess it’s all made in China. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. If you’ve got a good supplier.
Different common use names / interchangeable names If you want to get technical, out of side of normal common name use , the Celsius scale is a type of Centigrade scale, Celsius is correct term, however Centigrade is still widely used and understood
It would have been great to see how fuel efficient the gasoline model is compared to diesel. With gasoline/petrol being cheaper in the uk I wonder if having a separate underslung fuel tank for petrol would be worth it on a diesel vehicle?
It’s quite difficult to measure heat output in air with what I have. I have done efficiency tests on hydronic heaters on petrol vs diesel. Petrol is around 10% less calorific than diesel as a fuel type, my test on hydronic heaters found it’s running petrol to be 20% less effective than diesel.
I didn’t think petrol would be more efficient than diesel, especially in an application like this. Being a mechanic I know my way round petrol and diesel car engines and much prefer diesel as they are more efficient. I enjoy watching your videos where you test heaters etc. really interesting! I’m currently in the French alps for Christmas and new year in my camper that I live in and my next trip is to northern Sweden/finland/norway so love seeing how you’re doing with heating etc…
I could, but running gas is more than just the pump. Lots to do with ECU. The same pump is used for gasoline or diesel on this heater. The change however, is the ECU to have different software. Using this .65 pump on a normal Chinese heater which is .22 is just going to flood the chamber with fuel.
Yeah, pretty odd feature that it doesn’t display both. I feel like it’s something with it, they would’ve had to actively remove. My freedom units is only a bit of light-hearted fun. To be fair us Brits seem to use a mix of imperial and metric in our day-to-day lives.
I can't believe everybody is so anti -tap tap tap for the fuel pump. My heater keeps my van so warm that that tap tap tap is the only indication I have of what the outside temperature is. I can listen to this speed of the fuel pump to get a indication of the true outside temperature
I also find it strange that the manual lists the working temperature as -30-75°F (-34-24°C). I'm assuming "working temperature" is referring to outside air intake temperature and not the space around the heater itself. It also says not to use the fuel pump at a temperature higher than 20°C (68°F). Is this normal for these heaters? Seems like there are times when people would want to run their heater in conditions above these temperatures for drying out gear etc.
I imagine their working temperatures are just a recommendation based on different components have. they will have to right something I have used my diesel heater down to -38c without issue, and I’ve had a +20° to make warm water as well.
I think it’s about time you got some orange overalls mate ..especially being Scottish too!😆 …really hope you get the reference!haha love these type of vids from you 👍🏼 Ant
If I'm reading the data correctly, it looks like the ratio of exhaust temp to vent temp (essentially the efficiency of heat transfer from burn chamber to vent) is best for the Chinese diesel heater on Low at 1.3 , followed by American running diesel on Medium at 1.51, followed the Americn heater running diesel on High at 1.65. So it does look like the American device burns diesel more efficiently than the Chinese models. Efficiency wise, it runs diesel more efficiently than gasoline on Medium and High. As for cost, that's another issue where joules per liter per dollar/pound matters, and prices will vary considerably by nation and region.
I’d says yes. Many of the Chinese ones can be tuned to have better performance at different settings as well. But this heater own design Ben chamber definitely has an effect
The cables are a pain in the neck. I have to run my engine to feed the leisure battery to start the heater. Once heaters glow plug knocks off, it's OK to turn the engine off.
Most of the Chinese heater come with too long cable and too thin. So the voltage drop will be a lot. I’d consider shorting the cable run and / or use thicker cable
Budget dependent. Autoterm for high quality heaters However there are considerably more expensive than Chinese made ones. They’re made in Eastern Europe now. If you want Chinese made with uk stock ( for fast shipping ) Lavaner seems to be the best quality around both heater and accessory wise. Hcalory new heaters have great control options Maxpeeding rods for budget but decent quality and that’s what I’ve been using in my van for the last few years.
If I’m doing anything customer related, I would be recommending an autoterm, costs more for sure, but it’s not worth the risk as installer fitting equipment which might not last or might be problematic.
“Diesel” is a wide range of liquids. There are sulfur-containing heating oils, different types with more or less sulfur and wide range organic Oil content. Diesel from the gas station, and there is Syntetik Diesel GTL without smell but also GTL for paraffin stoves. There are different purity classes 4 and 5. Class 5 is synthetic; class 4 smell similar to WD40 Petroleum. I think you got bad diesel with high organic content, sunflower oil or rapeseed oil. Try GTL from the kerosene heater, also known as a paraffin heater, it burns the cleanest. You need standardized fuel fluid :-) GTL is the most reliable and safest fuel fluid. In arctic regions you don't joke with the heater. In an emergency, you need to know exactly how much organic oil you can mix in before the burner gets sooted and goes out.Thank for the Video! Happy New Year!
It’s straight “shell” brand diesel from my vans diesel tank. And I would’ve said for diesel heaters which are primarily used in vehicles and often from vehicles own fuel tanks. A great option. The other heaters ran from the same diesel without issue
And I would have said, the cleaner the fuel, the cleaner the combustion, the less carbon monoxide next to your bed :-) The van with injectors doesn't complain about the fuel. In the diesel heater, unpressurized fuel drips onto a glowing mash, very fragile and sensitive. There's not much magic in it. :-) What comes in comes out. Shel sent you samples from the lab? I want it too *G@@MispronouncedAdventures
@@MispronouncedAdventures Elon Musk is a con man. I see similar gasoline, I mean petrol, 4KW heaters on Alibaba for half the cost of this "American" company's heater.
@@paulstaf oh I see. Yeah I did says the this is based on the Espar design. At least the called it a 4kw design and not the normally Chinese ones which called themselves a 5kw. I would say however there proprietary burn chamber is there own, which does allow petrol / gasoline to be used, which isn’t possible on the normal Chinese made heaters
@@MispronouncedAdventures I see petrol/gasoline heaters on Chinese websites for sale. Have you seen the inside of one of them? I would bet some money that they have a similar "proprietary" burn chamber. I guess when someone reviews/opens one of the Chinese gasoline heaters we will see. Thanks for the video! 🙂
@paulstaf I current got a Chinese made diesel hydronic / water heater for review which runs on diesel or petrol ( apparently ) it’s burn chamber is basically a complete copy of the Webasto heater with can run both . I definitely see similarities in layout between it and this Velit one. But definitely only a complete copy. We don’t see meant petrol heater here just as it’s not used for our vans. I wouldn’t mind getting one you mentioned to take it apart
Deff? do you mean Def = Diesel Exhaust Fluid? In the UK / EU it’s called Adblue. But if that’s what you mean then yes I do. It’s on all diesel vehicle in the uk since 2015
i know. I literally explained and show and that during the video. I talk about the history of the Chinese diesel heaters being based off the Espar 4D expired patient
