While you’re down there, I would replace the thermostat sensor, imo, it’s to the left of where the radiator hose comes into the block, there’s a wire hook up leading to it. Just another $15 part. I watched this video a year ago and now I’m having to replace this sensor, using this video as a reference point. Great video man thank you! You allowed me to learn how to work on my own truck and talk like I know what I’m talking about.
What was the symptom when you sending unit went bad? I get no reading on the gauge in the dash on my 95 Ram and the truck started run very hot again just about since I change the thermostat a little while back. Btw, I am thinking my sending unit is to the right of the stat housing facing the front of the truck. It is a 5.9 engine.
Literally all you have to do is take off your air filter housing and reach down in there with a long enough extension and a half inch socket. You're welcome 20 or 30 minute job tops
@@patrickpeters67 Actually I do like the details he covered. That being said, I did remove one on ‘95 Dodge Ram without removing the ac. Now I just need to know if that is the temp sending unit to the side of the thermostat housing. I changed the thermostat a while back, but the temp gauge in the dash quit working and the truck ran hot. It had been losing coolant somewhere for a while. Wondering if it leaked around the stat housing and shorted the sending unit. I also back flushed the radiator and plan to do the same with the engine block and heater core. I also bought some rust removing liquid I thought I would try running a little bit as there is a lot of rust like stuff in the system.
Thank you so much. Your tutorial was so easy to follow that I replace my thermostat oh my 2001 Dodge Ram today by myself the only thing that I had to do different wish I had to have a step stool because I'm short
Hey man, please continue to make videos on your 01 dodge, I have a 99 and am trying to learn how to work on it still, I just finished watching the check engine light one and I liked it so please continue 👍🏼
Its much easier to just remove the air box bracket and use a pair of needle nose vice grips to remove the hose clamps, then you can remove the hose neck to change the thermostat, when reinstalling the hose clamp safety wire in the open position so it will just slide down, much easier than removing the world. Tim
Nice and very thorough. Kind of glad you moved the alternator for us to see it clearer. My 2003 SLT is nearly identical, coolant overflow & air filter & hoses are slightly different designs. I got mine out past the alternator, but it's a tight squeeze. To put it back I'd recommend attaching the hose to the outlet pipe first, then bolting it in. What I also notice is my 03 has an inner thermostat gasket as well as a paper gasket. It makes a tighter seal. Newer Chryslers like my 05 PT Cruiser have the same which stops leaks without extra sealant. Doesn't appear to be a common part though, since no auto parts stores had one, I've only found it through OEM dealers.
Excelente video amigo,,, te felicito por la manera de explicar las cosas, felicidades nuevamente y gracias por compartir tus proyectos, saludos de Monterrey nl, mex
It’s not mandatory to have to swing out the alternator, or move any AC parts. I used long handle angled pliers to get the hose clamp off. Would’ve been much easier with an actual hose clamp tool. Then the thermostat housing rotates easily out from behind everything.
Actually, I use the stock 195 thermostat. I tried a cooler thermostat in the past but in my opinion, unless you have a custom tune for your vehicle that allows you to adjust for coolant temperature, it throws off the engine management system. I had a check engine light on for catalyst efficiency, and as soon as I changed back to a 195-degree thermostat, the check engine code cleared. It could be an odd coincidence, but my theory is that the engine was running too rich because it was running cooler than what the PCM expected.
I prefer cooler thermostats myself, but on the Dodges it's likely to trigger a CEL (Check Engine Light) Code P0128 "Thermostat Stuck Open/Coolant Temperature Too Low.
I know somebody that has a 5.9L with a leak at the housing. Even with a new housing and gasket. After a month it starts leaking again. It is like one of the surfaces is warped.
Looks to me like you took the long way home bud. At the most all you had to remove was the alternator but I doubt you even had to do that. I’ll find out tomorrow when I do mine.
Doing this exact job myself now, turns out my truck doesn't even have a thermostat fitted! No wonder it doesn't get hot! *Edit, I'm also going to do a flush of the rad and heater core now as well! Luckily I have a drain right under the truck to let it all run into 🤣
@R D The water, a drain to let the water run into. The old fluid and any spilt new fluid was caught in a catch pan and added to a big container of waste oils/fluids I have that will be disposed of at my local recycling centre. I have cats and coolant can kill cats if they come into contact with it, I don't fuck around with it at all!
