Hi Bong - Suggestion, tie a line, like a small cord, to the high pressure hose at the pump. Then pull the hose out the bottom. That way when you go to install the new hose you can tie the cord to the new line and gently pull it up. That way you can make sure the new hose will travel the same path as the original.
I would rather have an assistant on top of a car to pull the hose up just in case it gets caught and at the same time you feed a hose from the bottom. And no music on a job.
I finally finished the job by cutting and splicing the old and new line with a properly installed compression fitting. No leaks. If I had to dio it again, I'd have made the splice as far up as possible and avoid dealing the brackets below. It would have saved a few hours of flopping around under jackstands.
Well I did the job, and I would not have even tried it without this video, so thanks to FIx it Bongbong so much for the video and inspiration to give it a try!! It is do-able, but probably with challenges and points of wondering how to make it work. So if you are the type of person that can persevere and not give up (even if you get stuck and a little frustrated), you can do it. Probably took me 4 -5 hours, but maybe a lot less for you with my pointers below. Here are my pointers after doing my job on my 2000 Acura TL (non-S)… - There are three points that can be difficult and cause frustration - a) removable of clamps on frame , b) getting the u-shape driver side of new tubing back into position, and c) aligning the end fitting back into housing on driver side. - Take a picture of routing of the metal tubing on driver side from top of engine and underneath. This is important later. Obviously take note of the rest of the routing of tubing to passenger side. - First, start with removable of clamp on frame on passenger side. If you can get this bolt/clamp out with the flex 10mm ratchet wrench, you are home-free with removable! - Remove the end tube fitting on driver side and let the fluid drip out into a pan underneath. Maybe let it drain for 20-30 minutes. - Before trying to remove driver side clamp on frame, cut the metal tube near the driver side clamp to make removable of whole assembly so much easier! I used a hack saw blade on one of those hack-saw blade handles. Some oil will drip out obviously as you cut. - For the clamp on driver side, you can try to get it out. But if you can’t, just pry up the clamp with a screwdriver to get it out of the way since it is a C-clamp. I wish I would have known that since I tried for an hour to get the bolt out. - Now remove the bolts on other end of tube at top of engine, the electrical connector by passenger side wheel well, and hose clamp by ignition coils. - Now do the removable kind of like the video. You have two pieces to remove. You may get bound up little, but it will come out. - Insert new hose/tubing like noted in the video starting with passenger side tubing over top of exhaust. You may have to go back up to top side on passenger side a few times to get it roughly in place. Or use the string method too like others have said, or have a helper. - The driver side tubing will be tough to maneuver into place and you will get frustrated and feel there is no way to get it back into original position. Note the routing of the tubing from original picture. I think it would help to have a helper to have one person maneuver from top while another person maneuvers from bottom. At times it will feel like you are bending the tube a bit, but you need to get the tubing into its original position underneath the other tube there before attempting to the end fitting into its housing. This will be the most frustrating part. - Now the getting the end fitting into the housing hole on driver side...itt will seem like it is way out of position. You just need to use your right end to pry/maneuver the tubing to get the fitting partially into the hole. - Now another tough part, getting the holes aligned and bolts started on this fitting. Too bad you cannot get two arms/hands in there. But since you can’t, get a 10mm socket with many extensions taped together to top of engine so you can use this as a left arm/fingers. So with your right hand, maneuver the fitting/tubing around while you try to screw one bolt in a little with your long socket arm. You will eventually get one screw started a little. Now with one started a little, do the same with the other screw. Then tighten both down. - The rest of the job is easy. Forget the clamps on the frame. Just use some plastic zip ties to secure it in two or three places.
Dude well done, so sorry I didn't have a chance to respond in time to your previous comment, but thank you for taking the time to share your experience and tips, no doubt this will be very helpful for others!! Thanks again.
Aligning the bolt holes on the rack with the holes in the new line is being a pain as of right now. I can get the line itself in the rack, but it seems to be turned counter clockwise a centimeter or two.
@@dorianruble7807 So sounds like you can get the fitting of the line with the rubber o-ring into the housing of the rack, but you are saying the holes do not line up well. I remember maybe thinking the same thing, but not sure if it was as far off as you are saying. In any case, just use your right arm and grab the last one foot of the line and wrestle with it a bit to get one hole lined up, and then get one bolt slightly started. Then I used a C-Clamp using the housing of the rack on one side of the C-clamp to pull the fitting more nicely into the hole to get it better fitted without pulling it tightly in. Then I wrested a bit more with the last one foot of the line with my right arm to try to line up the other hole. Then because you cannot fit two arms in the space, I used a set of long socket extensions as a left arm like described in my directions in the other reply, to turn in the other screw as continued to maneuver the line with my right arm. Hope you get it!
@@mikulskn got a friend's grandpa to help me out and we got it. He used a long bar and put it through the left bolt hole and used leverage to hold the right screw hole in place, then got the first in easily and the second was a breeze. I appreciate the advice! This was definitely one of the most frustrating things I've DIY'd. Your comment helps tons. Thank you.
@@dorianruble7807 And now you get the huge satisfaction of the accomplishment!!! Yep, this is one of those frustrating ones....not complicated, just frustrating. And so this is one of those to not give up, use some ingenuity (like the help from a grandpa), persevere thru the frustration, and then enjoy the fruit of the accomplishment.
Awesome video 4 years in the future. The only thing I would do differently is cut the old hose and make it easier for removal and like previously mentioned I'd use zip ties and the old rubber mounts to keep from going thru all that extra pain for you had to endure for a 20 plus year old car that is kinda just a backup car at this point lol
I've done this exact same job for a 2003 Honda Odyssey and let me tell you it's one pain in the ass it's not a job I enjoyed doing either nice video you have more patience than me
You forgot to mention getting the steering side connection lined up after bending the pipe to get it fished thru. Two hours later and bloody hands I gave up and removed the replacement line. I then went to local hydraulic supply and purchased a steel 5/16 flare fitting, measured and cut the steel pressure line reinstalled old steering side and installed the new pump side line and made the connection. Turned a 6 hour job into a two hour no frustration job. Live and learn.
It's been a while since I did this job, but I think I barely had to bend the line. Either way thanks for the tip hopefully others will find it useful!!
Im a little confused as to what you're talking about. Are you saying theres a way to leave the existing line in down below and just a attach a new line closer to the pump with a flaring tool? If so, where did you cut and flare and attach?
My first video i have watched mr. Bong bong and I must say very professional and clean. Im no mechanic but my poor little tl has been through so much and now I need a hose and u guessed exactly were it was leaking from.
Great video, bro. After watching several videos of this procedure, I'm starting to think giving some power steering stop leak fluid a chance first might be the best course of action lol. My high pressure hose is in the early stages of a leak and not really affecting much, but damn I really loathe this replacement.
I usually try to stay clear of stop leak fluids are they're band aid fixes and can sometimes cause more damage. It's definitely not a fun job, but you'll feel good just getting it over with the right way. Thanks for watching!
Honestly, for some reason of all the jobs I've done over the years.. this particular job was the biggest pain, but it is possible and you will absolutely save a ton of money by doing it yourself. Worst case you still end up taking it in. Worth a shot.
Hi, So I just finished the job.. Getting the hose out was easy. It got a little bent but it was garbage. getting the new one in which you completely didn't show required removing the 2 subframe bolts on the drivers side. Then you can slip that hard line where it needs to go.
Nice work Bruce! I honestly don't recall having to remove any subframe bolts, but I do remember getting hung up for a while and actually bending the new hard line slightly to get it in place around the driver's side frame/rack area. It's been quite a few years since I made the video and I honestly may have just suppressed the butt kicking. Thank you for sharing, I hope this helps others who might be stuck in the same area!
I just replaced the fooking power steering pump only to realize ... the pressure hose is leaking. Now your video's got me seriously considering taking this to a mechanic.. I've had enough "fun". SMH I've bought the hose at rockauto. We'll see.
Henry Hunter which one did you get? I was looking on rockauto too and they have cheap ones from the $50s and expensive ones for $100+ The one for $58 has a red heart icon next to it, which means hot selling part!
@@unclesesi5559 My experience is that parts marked favorites on Rock Auto are popular because the pros are buying them and know they are a good value. I almost always pick parts marked as favorites and have not regretted it once.
Thanks, I'm in the NYC so getting an SUV in the air on the side of the street is a problem. But I'll differently try it out before hiring someone to due it for me.
Great job on video giving me a sense of what the pain is in getting it back in but also on do-ability (just need patience), so I would have not considered doing it but now I am going to order the hose, get the 10mm flex box wrench, and give it a try. I wish there was a two or three piece kit (like you can find to replace fuel lines from front to rear of car), which would make installation a lot easier. Is it ok and easy to bend the steel driver side of the hose unit to help get it back in without kinking the metal tube? I am thinking of not putting the two clamps back on underneath since it seems like that would be a pain. And thinking of just using plastic cable ties to hold it in place (my car is a junker and rusted out a lot, and only has a year or so left on it). I like the brief out-take on trip to the store (since that is the reality of many repair jobs)!
Hey question for you.... so I'm in the process if doing mine right now. However I didn't get to Harbour Freight to get the wrench and those bottom bracket bolts without that wrench where a B**CH!! I just told my father that I wasn't going to put them back, like you I want to zip tie them. Did you end up doing the zip ties?? If so has it been ok?? I'm going to put the new line in now, so hopefully you'll see this in the next few days and let me know. Hopefully I'll have it in by then.. Thanks
@@vanessawallin4065 The zip ties work fine! The only objective is just to not have the metal lines bouncing around and rubbing on something sharp or some corner. So as you zip tie them down wherever you find some points, just review where the lines are sitting when you zip tie them in place.
Just watched this as I need to replace the hose on my 2001 TL. Hopefully it doesn't take me as long as it did you since I've been a repair tech on Mercedes Benz since 1978 but haven't done a lot on Asian imports in comparison. I have pretty much all the tools to perform the work. That said, the time guide I have access to says the job pays 1.2 hours. You'll need to step it up a bit to make any money doing this for others (joke).
Mine is leaking only at the top, at the place where the rubber hose meets the metal sleeve. Is there no way to just seal the leak somehow? Like with some super strong glue or some shit?
Fix it Bongbong You are right man. I tried sealing it with sealant and then some epoxy and left it to cure for good 2 days and it didn't work! But it did slow down the flow. I've read that the pressure is 1500psi !!! This crazy pressure is gonna break through any glue/sealant.
Ah, good point. Cycling the wheels back and forth will work the bubbles out. At least that's all I did with the car still on the stands and then checked the level. Hope that helps!
I'm the wrong person to ask since I'm not a professional. If it were a friend I'd say a pack of beer and dinner. A random person... I'd say nope. hahah wasn't a fun job.
@@FixitBongbong This is the most common reason for PS fluid leaks in this generation of Hondas & Acuras. I am about to replace the hose in a 2003 Acura TL at 170K and did a 2003 Honda Odyssey at 190K (now 218K). The pumps in both vehicles are still working fine.
Jorge, I had a 2001 Accord EX 4 cylinder with 380,000 miles on it and ran like a top. Wife made me sell it and buy a 2002 Acura with 150,000. It's been nothing but trouble.
I bought an 01 CL-S for my son 4 years ago now and this line has needed to be replaced for 3 years now and I’ve been putting it off because I knew what a pain in the ass it’s going to be .... you did well. I like the idea of tying a line to it, it’s good in theory but I’m not sure how practical it would be one you start trying to weave the F’n line up through there .... there’s not a lot of room in the best of times. I was replacing his plugs and coil packs yesterday and I leaned on the radiator and the top hose inlet just crumbled away .... granted it’s a 19 almost 20 year old car at this point and shit happens but frankly nothing on these Acura 3.2 cars is easy to get to .... tight working spaces but I’ve bought another radiator and I’ll make it happen. Dad always does! I’ll be glad to sell this son of a bitch to someone for 800 bucks soon and let them fix that high pressure line. Enough about my troubles though ... well done video, my only critique would be what someone else said .... show the rack connection next time and any bleeding procedure you used.
