This tool on Amazon makes this job WAY EASIER! Here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005... 2002 Mitsubishi Galant Heater Shut Motor My heater only blows cold air how do I fix it? Here's how! You're in luck!
thanks, I read another post that helped me to avoid taking out the entire dash, if you go through the glove box, and look where you showed the shut valve motor, you can just use a long screwdriver or other tool to disengage the metal bar from the plastic arm. After disconnecting the two you just move the metal bar forward toward the cab (away from engine) and voila!! HEAT!! you rock for this video, saved me some money...THANKS!
Brian Cortez can you explain which piece I am moving? This is where I am having a problem. It seems like the metal arm has a tiny bolt to the right.... Does that come off. Thanks for any tips
Dear Brian, You literally are WORTH YOUR WEIGHT IN GOLD, I am amazed the dealerships that have NO IDEA how to fix this thing. I saw your video several years ago and forgot to thank-you for this precious information & this time I subscribed to you also. I never fixed it fully because after I originally fixed it , it lasted for years, but now I believe I can buy the shut valve motor for less than a hundred bucks, however I believe I will just rig up a wire to fix it, that way I wont ever (hopefully) have to take the dash out again. Again Brian you ARE THE MAN...........Peace and Keep up the Fantastic Work.
It took me a minute, but with your vid and hubby's help I NOW HAVE HEAT!!!!! DIdnt replace it just moved it forward!! NO MORE COLD MORNINGS DROPPING DAUGHTER OFF @ SCHOOL!!!! THANK U SOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!
Seriously, you are a life saver. I'm in Utah, and All the recent snow and freeze your balls off weather was miserable. Watched your video and in 45 min w only a Phillips head screwdriver I rigged the heater to work in the side of I-15. Eternally grateful
Thanks for your video. It was a big help this afternoon. After removing the shut motor, I took it apart and found that the worm gear had slid about half way off the motor shaft. Sliding it back, nearly against the motor, restored the function of the motor and removed the clicking sound. Car works and it just cost a few sheet metal cuts. Thanks again!
Man - I did this all myself about a year ago but stopped one step short of finding the shut motor. I was just doing it by logic, and not by a guide - lol. After watching your video, and realizing that all you have to do is remove that stupidcumbersome l-shaped black heater conduit to get to the shut motore, I walked outside with my toolchest and had it switched to hot in about 30 minutes. Bravo. I think I'm going to rig a hanger through the glovebox to manually jimmy it in the future. Thanks
Seriously, I have been driving with no heat, from the middle of last winter to now and I found your video. I had it torn apart, fixed, and put together within an hour. All I did was unhook the motor so it won't come back from the dead and turn off my heat mid-winter (again). Seriously, Thank you. This video saved me a hell of a lot of time and about a grand because the dealer wanted to charge me $850 in just labor to do this simple process. But seriously, you are a godsend.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this video. I'm trying to help a neighbor kid with a Galant that has this very same problem. I had a feeling it was a control valve and when jumping the connections to the switch on the control unit, I could hear a clicking from under the dash. Got to believe this is the problem. Not technically a challenge but a fair amount of work to pull it all apart. But the fix is pretty clear, so thank you.
Dude, Thanks for posting this video. I am not much of a mechanic in anyway and my wife was complaining weeks on end to get the heater working again and she didn't want to spend the money on a real mechanic to fix it. So I followed all the steps you outlined in the video and instead of replacing the part i just manually pulled on the lever to get it opened and now the heater works. Thanks again for posting this video.
I just want to thank you so much for this video, my wife car has been without heat for almost a year and here in Georgia it hasn't really been cold and she wanted it fixed before the weather turned bad. I went to a repair shop and they wanted $750, I watched the video with her and we did it in about 45 minutes, could have been sooner if my hands were not so big, smiling. You are a God send and my he bless you.
Thanks for the video, I agree with Ahmaad regarding my Mitsubishi. This is the only problem I have ever had. Your video was very helpful though. You explained what the dealer was trying to explain. Every Repair shop I have taken my car to was unable to fix the problem. They had me to replace heater cores, thermostats, water pumps and more, I kept telling them the dealer said it was the little switch behind the control, but these men just kept seeing dollar signs and leaving me without heat. Hopefully, I can show this video to a Mechanic and he can help by switching the control over so I can get heat.
Man, YOU ROCK! Your video saved me from $425 - 1225 for "heater core" replacement. Start to finish two hours, fifteen minutes. (I spent twenty minutes looking for a screw I dropped.) Thanks for a truly helpful video.
Brian's excellent video states the motor only shuts off the coolant flow at the fully cold position. This is also the position at which the motor fails. Since my motor was failing intermittently, the easiest option for me was to prevent the control knob from being turned to the fully cold position. I used double sided tape to attach a thin block of vinyl trim to the nylon wedge that controls the blend door. When the knob is turned towards fully cold, the block hits the cable bracket and stops before reaching the fully cold setting. As long as this gets me through the winter, I'm happy since I'm getting rid of the car in the spring.
I cracked open my 02 Galant and it was all as described. Motor was so bad that I couldn't actuate the valve without separating the valve arm. As soon as I turned the arm, I got heat. Thank you, sir!
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! This was such an easy fix thanks to your video. God only knows how much you saved me in dealership labor costs. $140 for the part, 30 mins. in the driveway, and we have heat again! You rock.
Bro thanks a million !!!!! I go through this problem every time the seasons change so I will be doing this in order to MANUALLY rig it so I can manipulated it with a string or something whenever I need to change it ( hopefully It’s possible with out taking apart the whole bottom of the dash ) . Thanks again enjoyed your commentary although I appreciate you trying to stay on topic I was actually interested in what you were about to say in regards to Mitsubishi and the design because I agree ... feel free to rant any time you want bro 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👌🏾👌🏾
WOW!!! VERY professional and straight forward...Great video bud! My wife and kidsthank you for her and kids being warm now on the way to school! THANKS!!!!
Thank you so much for this video! It truly helped me decipher Mitsubishi terminology as well as the exact placement. I actually have Mitchell repair and it did not even come close to telling me the info I got from your video! So thanks for all the work putting together the video I really do appreciate it!
Just wanted everyone to know I took Brians advice from this video and now I have a happy girlfriend! She can now drive around with heat again! The only thing I did was leave the motor in. I just pried the wife off the control arm and moved the valve manually in the open position. I just figured sense the motor didnt work there wasnt a whole lot of reason to remove it Plus I couldnt figure it out after i got the few screws out, lol. Great job Brian, helping other folks!
This guy is the frecken dude. He knows his work. That were the actual problem with mine. Took me about 8 minutes to disassemble using a cordless screwdriver.
@@deannag5007 yes, if you’re having over heating issues with engine though and have a stinky smell it could be bad water pump. Confirm this by pressing on gas (while in park) while your car is 3/4+ on the warm side of the temp meter; if your meter drops (to colder side) while pressing gas, your water pump is probably bad. Hope that’s not your issue. It’s mine :,)
@@dbo3838 no mine is not over heating. It just does not blow hot and I'm pretty sure it is not the heater core because I never got the antifreeze in the cab. I thought maybe it was the actuator motor not switching over. I haven't had heat for years but it would be nice. I live in Arizona and just use one of those harbor freight heaters you plug in to the 12volt. No snow in the Phoenix area. 😀
Awesome video Brian! I plan to take on this repair myself very soon on my fiance's car. I'm eager to tackle it head on with this video as a "how to" instrument. Thanks!
Excellent video - I actually have a 2004 Colt and the heater matrix has burst all over the passenger footwell! This video has shown me where it is and how to access it so although it wasn't exactly what I wanted this video has given me all the clues to try to fix my car. BTW - the local independent Mitsi garage wants to charge me £700 to fix this!!!
Thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooo much for this video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cannot explain to you how ecstatic I am to FINALLY have heat in my car. I did not replace the heat shut off valve but I was able to manually move the lever with a shoe-string so it blows hot air again! It required considered considerable force.
Today it snowed in MD, my heater has not been working thus far, thank you for this video, I literally took a phillip screwdriver my Iphone and in the snow, followed this video in fixing my heat. The only thing i had trouble with was manually pulling the switch, I never disconnected the battery so i started the car/ tugged on the switch/ while also turning the dial from cold to heat. WOW the switch started moving like it should , now I have heat.
I've had this frickin problem since I bought it 4 years ago, so THANK YOU! Damn you, Mitsubishi! I've had so many other problems that were a direct result of this one single thing!! BTW, I was told the 'clicking' is a common problem that Mitsubishi is well aware of. But nobody ever said what it was, or if I should or could do anything.
I didn't mention in my previous post a minute ago, that no panels were removed to do this, except taking out the glove box. Tools required: long flat wide screwdriver, large wire cutters (for cutting the plastic in the upper left corner of the glove enclosure), and strong hands. And it will be easy to manually move the valve back (closed) when cold AC is required.) Thanks for a great video. BTW, your Galant looks like an '01 with the colored Mitsu emblem on the trunk lid.
@MrTwil83 For max cooling the HOT coolant is dammed off to stop any radiant heat from off setting the cooling properties of the evaporator core under the dash. The evaporator soaks up heat from the cabin and takes it to the front of the radiator and then the condenser dumps the heat outside the car. If the heater core is a thin plastic barrier away from the evaporator then radiant heat will get to it making it less efficient by a small margin on the hottest of days.
@Vacmasterthegreat Check the radiator cap when cold to make sure it's full. Then check your radiator hoses to see if they are getting hot (if not then check 2 C if thermostat is stuck open) if they are hot THEN check the heater control valve or shut motor.
@shadowdemon505 One of two things is failing. To find out what.. do this. Run the car up to operating temp. Then grab the two heater hoses to see if they are both hot. If they are then you need to check your blend door under the dash in the center. If only one hose is hot then check for an inline valve in one of the hoses. (follow them forward near the engine.)
@atticusthebeagle Yours is different. Your trouble is the air dam controller that runs the vent switching door. Or you have a pencil etc in the blend door.
Thanks for showing how to open up the dashboard, as a quick fix, I just pulled the bottom piece off where the glove box is, reached in and pulled the white lever and now at least I will have heat. Supposed to get cold tomorrow and it is no fun riding in a freezer. Needless to say, I will keep the dashboard open until I get the new part. Thanks again
I really needed this because I just bought my Mitsubishi Galant in July and now its October and about to get cold. Wish I would have done my research before I bought it.
Thanks for the information, it was easy to follow. It fixed the problem. One suggestion for others, instead of replacing the motor, I gently disengaged the metal linkage from the plastic arm and pulled the linkage to the open position.
My aunt has an '02 Galant and she's having this exact problem with the heat. The antifreeze level is perfect in the rad and coolant bottle, so I guess it's time to tear the dash and HVAC apart... Great video! Thanks!!
Wow thanks bro I've been having a hard time trying to find any information about this I really appreciate it by the way really good video keep up the good work 👌👍
@goreover Good question. It isn't. That one controls an air dam the size of a shoe box lid that diverts air either from the evaporator (A/C) or the heater core. The heater shut motor just plugs and unplugs the flow of antifreeze through the heater core line.
helped me secure some good action from the YL thanks bro! "i'm so hot now"... you got a trick for the e36 sunfoof gides. been ignoring that for a year now.
@mytruckownsit Nice! No dice on the guides. The plastic ends snap. You have to buy the whole thing either from the dealer or the wreckers. Better still you have to pull the headliner and back window to install the bee-otch!
I have a 2003 Galant and the heat has been pesky the last two winters.I know that clicking all too well. This fall it was not doing it at all. I took everything apart as you directed and I did not need to replace the electric motor but was able to open the check valve and get it working. The check value did not move easily as I had some corrosion on it.Thanks!
Nice video! Made getting to the part quite easy. I got the part on ebay for 105. Removing the old part proved to be harder than I thought even after getting access to it. The reason is the screws with which it is heald. Tough to get your fingers in there and unscrew. I used a small ratchet type screwdriver but it did take me a lot of trying a nearly 30 minutes just to remove the part and put the new part in. Reaaly crappy desing by mitsubishi indeed. Thanks for the video!
Ok so i've never even changed a tire before and i am a female who doesnt know shit about cars but thanks to your excellent vid i fixed my heater all by myself...it was a 2day process for me because it got late but i love you for ever!!! i followed your vid on my car then went to pic n pull and found the part there..spent $6.26 w/tax plus $2 entry fee(i pulled the part myself also)....saved me at least $400...if i was able to do it im confident anyone watching this vid also can....need PATIENCE!!
I have this problem again. The first time I had it fixed at the dealer to the tune of $400. Thank you for this. I'm still not sure I should try to fix it myself. I'm thinkiing about it and may watch a few more times to make sure I have it down. I don't want to spend $400+ again as mine has 225K miles on it.
