Thanks for taking the time to make this vid! I'm working on a 2000 S10 today! This is definitely going to help! Edit: I have the Chilton manual and for the 'pressure plate to flywheel bolts' it says the torque specs are as follows: For years 96' and later it's 33ft lbs for the four cylinder model and 29ft lbs for the V6! Not sure why it's less for the larger motor but that's what it says... This is in regards to the NV1500...
Hola Hola, Im from México, Im a woman AND a love my pick up S10 2.2 2000 and a love make mechanics. Your video for me Is wonderful and i learn so much. (Sorry my English 😳😳😳) thanks AND please you make More videos. Adios amigo.😁😁👍
Gotta give a thanks for this video! I’ve got a 96 s10 so some things are a little different but this video helped me out a ton today, got clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and both the master and slave cylinder changed out. Ole work truck is happy again!
Thanks for the video Jabo! Was great information replacing the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/slave cylinder on my GMC Sonoma. You're right definitely put the right bolt in first. I had a couple issues with the exhaust bolts on the exhaust header but learned how to heat up the bolts for easier removal. I'm not sure if this is for all applications but I learned you need to use synchromesh oil instead of regular gear oil. It was great information that you listed what size bolts and tools you needed. Just wanted to say Thank you and this video was a great help!
LOVE THE VIDEO HE HELPED ME ALL THE WAY! personally I didn't have to remove the shaft I just disconnected it from the rear and slid it back. I only had to unbolt the 6 bolts that take off the catalytic converter. Maybe i was just being lazy. But I got it done in 1 day
One thing that helps and is pretty cheap is all thread or a longer headless bolt. Run them in 2 bolt holes use it to guide the transmission in and have something to rest it on while you work the transmission in. Once you get a couple of bolts in, back the headless bolts out or all thread and put the bolts in, in the all threads place.
There isn't but one way to get that and that's to wade off into it. Most important thing is is that if you do not know what you're doing ask before you break something.
It is recommended to change all parts related, that means clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl/throw out bearing, Pilot bushing, FLYWHEEL and I personally ALWAYS change the Rear Main Seal on the rear of the engine because I have been burned before on those, had ONE that was dry and looked good and After it was all back together 10 Miles on the test drive it started puking engine oil! So I had to do the job TWICE and the second time was for free! Oh Yeah master cylinder too because the pressure from a new clutch will take them out
Good video. Good to have people like you that take the time to help a DIY'er. I would use "this guy" a whole lot less. Use the correct piece or bolts name.....not "this guy". Good video and thank you for your time.
Great job and great video. The only thing we are doing differently is replacing the flywheel bolts. I went and looked online and it stated that the bolts are torque-to-yield, meaning one and done. Again, thanks for the great video.
I'm pretty sure that the flywheel should have three locating dowels in it. I didn't see them in the one you removed, so I imagine that they were stuck in the pressure plate that you removed. You should have transferred them to the new flywheel and then your new pressure plate would have lined up with those dowels.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and share your knowledge so far the best detail video I've seen in youtube about clutch replacement you are a life sever. keep it up thank you.
What is the best method to get to the top bell housing bolts? Was told I may have to unbolt 4 body bolts and lift body and suspend it on a 4x4 block to make it easier.
I was able to get to those top bolts no problem by letting the trans drop down all the way then using an impact wrench with a swivel socket and bunch of extensions. U dont have to lift the body of anything. There is actually plenty of room
gREAT INFORMATIVE video. Thanks for makin it. However, if my shifter is hard to get in a gear as it is cold outside, but gets easier as it warms up, it that a clutch or a clutch cylinder problem.
I just read on Mitchell gm even wants you to like if you have air still that can come out like in the master there to pump the clutch pedal as fast as you can for 30 seconds, i thought that was hysterical but something to note really.
Hi do you know what is the torque for the flywheel bolts, I'm working an a 2003 chevy s10 4 cylinders which I think is the same engine you worked, thank you.
i have a 96 gmc sonoma 2.2 rwd manual sls. im getting ready to put my tranny back on but forgot where the long bolt goes.. i have 6 bell houseing to engine bolts. also how the ground wires go on . i found a nut that fit. can u go into detail where each bolt goes? thanks t yu19
Hi! Thank you so much for taking time to make all the videos for us. Please help me. Here is my issue. I just bought a 2003 GMC Sonoma SLS 6 cylinder Truck . The truck shakes/vibrates really bad once started. You can literally see the engine moving and shaking. It shakes throughout the drive and also appears to shake even more when at stopped light. Just yesterday afternoon, i was at a red light waiting to make a right turn onto the freeway. Once light turned green as i was pressing the gas and turning my steering reel it became hard to where i couldn’t turn it normally and literally suddenly just died on me. Thank goodness there was no other car making a right turn on the far left lane because when my truck steering reel became hard to turn the car went toward the left side. I tried few times to start car and it started and i went to the left turn trying to turn into the 7’eleven parking lot, right when i went onto the parking it died again. This time it took more times until car started again and this time when it felt as if the car is starting i gas it to help turn on. Then i drove just across to Oreilly and the worker scanned car and a code on his machine detected Cylinder 2 misfire. Purchased NEW: Spark plug wire set 6 spark plugs Replaced it on car. Still not resolved. Upon checking the MAF sensor was no good, the distributor has a line cracked on the number 2 . Went back to Oreilly: Purchased NEW * MAF Sensor *Distributor Cap & Rotor Replaced on car with those too. Again NOT Fix still showing code Cylinder 2 misfire. Issue present: 1.Shaking/vibration on car really bad and loud. 2. Check engine light comes on and off (flashing) I do not want to guess on what it is. Can someone please guide me on what to do next that can fix this. **At this moment writing this comment, i am in the car parked at Oreilly debating what to get. ***also when i moved wire on cylinder 2 to 4 and 4 to 2…it still show cylinder 2 misfire even after moving it to 4. Do i get Fuel filter?
@@JaboTheMechanic so this is the update before i saw your comment. Thought maybe fuel filter so i cleaned it by spraying with throttle bottle cleaner on fuel filter. Car still started and upon driving the check engine light came on flashing again and was still vibrating/shaking. ****i do not know why i did the next step But i removed the distributor and the shaft to check if i might have sprayed the throttle bottle cleaner on and maybe might messed that up***(and i just put it back) Now car will crank BUT DOES NOT START! Then upon doing research it appears that i might have mess up the distributor timing. I followed the instructions on the TDC and getting dial at 1 in the end. (Did that many time!) then check the pressure on cylinder 1 and there was compression. Now its showing code P0446 and crank but no start. Car still doesn’t start. FYI i am no mechanic i am just a girl trying to get the truck to work. Please help!
Anyone know if the process for replacing a clutch on his 2003 is much different from a 1995 Sonoma? I'm gonna have to do a clutch in my truck and I don't have a ton of experience with this type of thing
Are you anywhere near the coast in Virginia I got a 1998 GMC Sonoma I had a high performance clutch put in and then driving home from work the clutch dumped on me and bleeding doesn't do it but do not or do you know anyone in the Portsmouth Norfolk area that can help me cuz the mechanic won't own it even though I told him I'd be willing to pay him for any do-over and what was needed and I met a loss here I don't know anybody that I could trust any recommendations on any RU-vid buddies that work on sonomas
3 things either you didn't connect the line or there is to much air. Are you closing the bleeder screw all the way. Are you using a plastic line to help you with the bleeding
@@JaboTheMechanic a new one was supposed to had been installed. I’m thinking the guy did a sh*t job. He pinched the wires you said to look out for in this video. I got 3 or 4 other cars so my s10 sat for a couple of years while I chased that problem. I’m thinking he may have gotten grease or dirt on the flywheel. Would that cause it?
87Qleen the vibration comes from the drive shaft,, before is remove you got to put a mark on it and went you put it back you got to line it off with the mark the you put on the drive shaft at The beginning., I have same problem with my 03 S10 and that eliminated the vibration .
Before removing the drive shaft put a line in each side with white paint and when you put the drive shaft back make sure the lines face each other, that will stop the vibration.
Damn it nooooo! I do recommend loctite but probably blue I don't feel like people should even have red in their toolbox if anyone tries to take that flywheel off again they're going to be pissed. Just my opinion remember red is forever.
Great video, helped a lot. One thing, try not to use pronouns when describing parts. For example, saying this or that part while pointing at this or that part. EVERY part has a NAME, SAY the parts NAME! If I go to the auto parts place, I can't tell the clerk I want this or that part! There was a "part" behind the flywheel inside of the rear main seal, you described with a pronoun. You concluded YOURS was OK and didn't need to be replaced. I had to figure out what part you were talking about. I hadn't completely removed my tranny at the time I watched your video, so I didn't know whether I'd have to replace my "that part" once I got my tranny out and took a look!
By the way my truck is a 4(3v6ok I don't think the one your doing is the same thing ok the book I got it shows other slave thing ok just need to know ok but it going to be truble I think
W up good jod tray got new clutch for my any one can tell me reals good can work c year price are good thank my guy buy it put new one thing put the old Bering he like noise put clutch got away take out clutch stared noise don't what to do first one truck I got my Life
