Here is the part for everyone asking www.amazon.com/Blower-Motor-Resistor-Kit-Harness/dp/B074HTW9KS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HHXAMPJIGK2J&keywords=2005+silverado+blower+motor+resistor&qid=1578538841&replacementKeywords=blower+motor+resistor&sprefix=2005+silverado+blower+mot%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-3&vehicle=2005-47-491------------&vehicleName=2005+Chevrolet+Silverado+1500
thomas tirol/florida yeah a lot of people don’t realize that with a little bit of guidance you can do a lot of the repairs on these trucks. They are pretty easy to work on.
hint. place new connector on top of old connector after making sure the new connector matches the old. Use heavy duty siccers and cut both harnesses at a angle. about 20 or 25 degrees. The new harness wire will match up with the old and allow connections to be staggered without having a bunch of splices at one place.
Thanks. On my Escort they put this in a very difficult position to manipulate, and so just getting the connector disconnected was stumping me. Very helpful video.
Your video was just what I needed. Mine did catch fire and toasted the connector and last couple of wires. When I got the kit, I could not tell anymore where the red and orange wire went. I also discovered that the kick panel is missing. Never knew as I bought it used. Thank you.
Good job. As for splicing in a new connector for the resistor block, there is a fairly new product available. It is a crimpless butt splice connector that uses low temp solder preplaced inside a heat shrink insulator, so that all you need to do is place the wires inside the sleeve at the center (it's transparent) and hit it with your heat gun. It shrinks the tube and makes the solder joint all at the same time, for a really neat, strong, waterproof solder joint that will hold up much better than the old crimp connectors. They are also great for marine or motorcycle applications. I got mine on Amazon.
This was great i am a 49 year old lady never done this kind of stuff before and your video walked me thru it saved me money and time I hope you make more videos on how to fix a chev y truck1500 stuff is always messing up Michigan winters are hard. Thank you
Thanks for your vid. I just changed the resistor unit on my 2004 gmc sierra 5.3L. The harness connector was fine. A.c. works like a champ now. Thanks again. Subscribed!
Thanks! I’m having this issue with my 06 1500. I checked the fuse 1st and it wasn’t that. I’m waiting for my delivery and I’ll be good to go! I replaced the hvac harness a while ago...so that’s all good.
I did the permanent fix for it my blower motor turning off and on intermmitently on my 2003 Silverado. I bought an "add a circuit." I bought the 30 amp one. I pulled the 30 amp fuse out in the cab for the heater/AC hvac system and plugged in the add a circuit that has 2, 30 amp fuses in it with a pig tail coming out of it. I connected 8 ft of 14 gauge electrical wire to it with a butt connector. I ran the other end to the blower motor on the passenger side of the cab. I cut the pig tail off of the blower motor(the blower motor just has 2 wires coming out of it. A red and a black wire. I connected it to the red wire. The black wire on the blower motor I connected an eyelet to it and connected it to one of the glove box hinge screws which was a good ground. I cut the 8 ft piece of wire right above the transfer case shifter and installed a toggle switch from walmart. Now I can turn my blower motor off and on with that toggle switch. I only have high fan speed, but I don't care.
Thanks for the video I’ve got to change mine out on my 2003 Silverado. Didn’t even know where it was located. So thanks for that. I still have speed number 5 working but one through four are dead.
Treasure Goblin thanks for the reply, don’t forget to like this video and subscribe to the channel it helps build the channel and allow me to do more videos like these. Thanks!
I have a 04 silverado Crew cab that needs a new resistor. I believe the crew cab and extra cab with out vents in center console take the same part number. I don't see the part numbers in the description, couldn you tell me the part number that you used? Thanks
I looked under on my kick panel, don't see a single bolt, but the thing is on there hard as hell. Looks like the bolts are missing but how would it be held on so tight?
I just did the exact same thing but my harness was fused to the resistor, and I used wire nuts instead, hopefully it lasts, right now everything works great!
Thanks so much for this video. I replaced my resistor 3 months ago but had it fail again just recently. Looking at harness pins it seems I need to also replace the harness. I've ordered one on Amazon. One question I have for you or this group: In the attached pic what is the component that sits to the left of the resistor (over the floor hump)? it has a red plastic clip harness feeding into it from below. For orientation, the "BR" to the right is the blower resistor harness. It makes a knocking sound. I know the previous owner had a satellite radio system is there a chance it has something to do with that? Thanks
Can you send me the info for the harness on amazon that you bought. I have the same exact problem even though I replaced the motor altnernator and blower.
Can it cause like a mustie smell out of your vents as well my resister is still working and the blower to, but I'm getting like a mustie smell when I first start the truck. 2004 Silverado 5.3 V8, but in cab air filters were only an option in this model. So its not that and the blower motor is new. The resister looks old and may need to be changed did all that myself, but could use some help on this topic. Thanks in advance.
This is very helpful. I have this similar issue with my 2005 Tahoe. The wiring harness is burned/melted and the the resistor needs to be replaced. What are the part numbers you used for the wiring replacement and the resistor?
Go on rockauto, they have all the part numbers. Make sure you select if it is manual or dual temperature automatic. Manual uses the sliders and the other one has a digital readout.
At 4:28 LUNCH IS ON ME PAL! Small flat head pushed up....pops off!💡🤛 With Blower still intacted. Installing the updated one. Tinning 3 wires,shrink wrap... The relay is built into the new one. Thanks again for the flat-head pop out.
@@edrhyan5352 I had to run to autozone to buy a 5 5 mm, at first I thought it was a mistake and tried to use the 5 mm, then went to the 6 mm and that's when good old reality struck and headed to autozone and paid almost 4 bucks for a socket that will only use once, Or 4 years from now I will stumble upon another 5.5 mm bolt to only find out that I have to go buy it again because I bought the stupid onesy 5.5 mm socket.
I've replaced mine twice. The last one I put in two years ago just died yesterday. But, it's 8 degrees out so....I'll be driving the SUV until we get a nice 30 degree day; might be next week, might not be until next month, or Feb, or March.
Thanks for the great vid! The screwdriver tip was awesome! But when I was done, I only had speeds one thru four. Anyone know why? (Still waaaaaaay better than none).
My truck is a 04 Tahoe. As soon as I connect it, the blower will blast on a constant High. Even while the truck is off , it stays on. So I have to connect and disconnect it as need. Any advice?
I didn’t replace the harness and have gone through two parts in a year. The parts aren’t expensive it’s the hassle replacing it. I didn’t realize it was just the actual harness I thought the wires needed to be kept longer, I guess. I used one of the harnesses I didn’t use prior. Im when the part arrives it’ll work.
Hey thanks for the video! After you changed it you did not have any more problems with it? I just changed it mine and im concerned it will happen again!?? Thank you
Dancing I know I’m really late to answer but I just saw this, they are butt connectors. He used ones that are too big though. They sell blue ones that have heat shrink built in for about 15¢ each.
I thought ours went out on our 07 jimmy but I wiggled the 2 resistor wires and it started working again..but when I installed the cover it bumped the wires and made it stop working...hmmm
2002 chevy Silverado 2500 HD HVAC fuse in fuse box under the hood getting hot and melting? Can only run fan on 1 and 2 speed. 3,4,5 will cause fuse to get hot. ??? Any thoughts?
meademods make sure you have the correct fuse in the spot. If you have one that’s rated higher than what’s supposed to be in that spot it won’t trip. Which could be causing them to melt. It sounds like you have a shirt in the system, I would check the harness and resistor that I replace in the video. They may be causing the short.
It seem awful funny the #5 speed stoped working yesterday I was thinking because it was the AC fuse it has something to do with the air conditioning pump. I was thinking about replaceing the AC clutch
I have sense replaced the harnes with a new one. that wire you showed was burned and that fixed fan speed 4 so 1,2,3,4 works but 5 does not. I'm stumped
I also replaced the ac/heat control panel And same result than tried replacing the fan speed unit sense it is a separate item tried 5 different units same result 1,2,3,4 good 5 nothing, ,(
This but I'm not sure if someone already addressed this but this but I'm doing it now I ordered a Amazon thing and it came with six wires and not seven that are on my truck anybody got any ideas
I had the same problem. After pulling and prying found out that my pigtail (connector) was melted to my resistor. Just pull harder and prepare to replace the pigtail.
In case anyone still has problems it can be that the blower motor has seized up so if you have time check that to so you don't melt your brand new harness
Same happened to me in my jeep but when I replaced the resistor and the harness I was told to replace the blower motor as well because the reason why the harness melted was due to the blower motor because as it gets older and worn out it draws more amperage and melts the wires.
Why didn't you just remove the other two screws on the cover and get it out of the way instead of always having to pull it down? Seems like a PITA to keep trying to get it out of the way and you didn't show getting the two resistor screws out.
That’s just the way I did it, worked for me. You can take out all the screws when you do it. And I mean yeah I fill everything and do all the work by myself so sometimes I can’t film everything. There are other videos on RU-vid if this one does not suit your needs. The internet has plenty of info out there.