Thx man!!! My 2004 Yukon Denali front fan started acting up (coming on and off whenever IT felt like it). Used your video n changed out that part. Super easy! Only cost me $55 bucks, 3 wire connectors, n 30 mins. This part at O’Reilley’s was going to cost $250. So glad I found your video. Part looks different n is a little tighter fit but works great! You rock!
great video, saved me a bunch of TSing time since my 06 SS Silvy had all 3 symptoms no fan, fan on after key off and just randomly working or not. Took about 20 minutes and my htr/a/c fan is back in action!!! Thanks
Thanks. Mine just destroyed my day of hunting. It's a nice day today, but it was sub-sub-zero recently. Drove my 2005 Suburban to go hunting and the blower motor was pegged out on HIGH no matter what setting I was on. I was like, OK, I'll deal later. Well, got to my spot. Turned off the truck, but the blower wouldn't stop. Had to turn around and come home. Found another video to unhook the motor, but thanks to yours I now have the correct replacement part ordered.
Solved. I have a 2005 Silverado Duramax. With Auto HVAC. I bought the AA Ignition brand, AC Blower Resistor Kit, X001NP8WYD, GWA154, OEM#15-81773. It was about $28 on Amazon. The GM AC Delco part at the Chevy dealer was $116-. My problem, the fan ran erratically, or not at all, ALSO this happened during the summer, and in AC mode it might blow cold, cool, or not at all. This part (as illustrated in this guys vid), was the remedy. Works now as expected.
Old video I know but my 2006 Yukon XL Denali is doing the exact same thing today and I’ll bet I have frayed wires going to the module!!! Thanks for the how to video! Gonna tackle this after work tomorrow!
Great video very helpful. I did the same thing you did but a couple days later my vent control buttons were not working correctly the air was coming out whichever vent it wanted to. Have you ever experienced that problem?
If you have the patience. You can remove the retaining clip and use a small screwdriver to carefully remove each of the pins from each of the actual clip. You can this for both of the clips. Install them in the same order and reinstall the retaining clip, and you're done. In doing so, you can avoid having to cut and splice the wires.
Great video, thanks for sharing the install steps. Just have a questions, have you had any issues with the replacement part since you installed it? Is it still working?
@@derickroberts7829 well my 05 Sierra made it home from the airport yesterday after going away for Christmas, then shit the bed today. Don't know if it's the module for sure but if I ground the fan it blows like a mofo. Might just run a switch/relay controlling the ground for now. Maybe my truck will light on fire... who knows!
Hey how are you doing I have a question my AC works but also I think I may be having the same issue as you or issue that you did half my AC only comes out when I’m driving I can’t control it to come to my face to my feet or to my windshield how much is that little part on Amazon
I'm curious as to before the symptoms presented themselves did you give anyone a jump off or get jumped off with battery cables? I ask as my wife needed to be jumped off and then this exact same thing happened to my Trailblazer and I haven't fixed it yet.
I have a 2007 trailblazer that had the same issue. Yes it had to be jumped off from battery being drained. Might want to replace the blower motor to. I blew 2 modules because the blower motor was sending to much amperage to the Blower motor module. As blower motors get old or faulty, the amps increase and blow the resistors in a blower motor module.
my new part from china i got on amazon, cost 24$ only, but it cycles off, after blowing...i think i got a lemon part. do i have 2caliberate the resistor motor? chevy blazer...............please hepl
What does that module do. My Chev Yukon has heat slightly coming out year round. And ironically when I flip on the heater it only gets hot at 90°. I already tried pulling the fuse trick that did open the passenger side vents.
@@americanmuscleup2497 . You stated “ Did it matter ? “. Shit I freaking have no clue I didn’t do this video. You tell me Did it Matter. Because I know Gm is full of shit saying that has to be. Fuck them .
How did you know that it was the modular instead of the blower motor yesterday my heat and AC worked perfectly fine and now 12 hours later my front blowers are not blowing so do I need to replace the modular or the blower motor
What was going on to have to change the module? Mine keeps jumping into Auto Mode and blowing hot air. A\C will run for while then kick off into Auto Mode.
Question ❓did you change the resistor also ❓ or just the wire harness ❓can anybody help please 🙏🏼 I thought I’m just supposed to replace the resistor unless the harness is Fried also do that ❓❓❓❓❓
When you have to solder multiple wires, cut each one at different lengths and match to the new wires so you don't have a fist of solder joints on a ball on top of one another and possibly risking a short.
I have a 2007 Silverado where I found the original resistor on Amazon and the blower motor will not turn off. If I get the updated resister will that fix it?
I’m sure you figured it out by now. I had the same problem as you. I had to pull the relay to the blower motor after I turned the truck off. Until the next day. I think they upgraded the part from GM because of these issues. So you have to wire it in. Only way you can replace that part
I have 04 Cadillac escalade and it's blowing air when the vehicals is turned off, like completely off so I have to disconnect the negative on the battery to turn off the blower so is the problem fix ?
!! There are different versions of blower motor controllers that Amazon doesn't seem to be able to distinguish between (i.e. does it fit?), so before ordering a replacement take your unit out to examine it in order to make sure you order the correct part. This video shows a connector going to the controller that only has 3 wires or so (and a seperate connector going from the controller to the blower motor that provides various voltages to run it at various speeds; note that high speed is full 12 Volts DC and the controller is not doing anything in this case, as discussed below). This type can be replaced by this Amazon part (which is what is seen in this video): www.amazon.com/PartsSquare-Resistor-Regulator-Replacement-CHEVROLET/dp/B01I28U8WG/ref=sr_1_22?keywords=Chevy%2C+GM+-+Blower+Motor+Resistor&qid=1561655974&s=gateway&sr=8-22 A second type of controller has 7 wires on the connector going to the blower motor controller (in addition to the red and black wire going to the blower motor) . This replacement controller is found here: www.amazon.com/Dorman-973-405-Chevrolet-Resistor-Harness/dp/B003YLMQHC Both use the red and black connector that feeds power from the motor controller to the blower motor. Also, in my case the blower motor was bad too. When only the high speed works the motor controller is bad, and so when the high speed stopped working, that turned out to be the blower motor itself was also dead. My guess is that the high speed blower setting delivers the full 12V DC battery voltage to the blower motor even when the controller is bad; i.e. the lower speeds don't work (lower speeds use the controller's hgh current resistors to lower the voltage and thus fan speed). Figuring out if your blower motor is dead is important, as the price is double at local parts stores. The red and black wire going to your blower motor controller is hot battery voltage. In order to test if your blower motor is working you can jumper that hot voltage to the red and black connector going from the controller to your blower motor (it will be high-speed 12V DC operation). The blower motor in my case twists out, just like a screw (right hand rule), don't go twisting it the wrong direction like I did while trying to reinstall it.
I am reading as I am about to replace mine, that some vehicles have a 3 wire plug and some a 5 wire. But the replacement part being made today is 5 wire only. Therefore, need to convert it. While on the subject, I would really really recommend people doing this to solder the spliced connections and if not at least use crimp connectors. Twisting wires together then wrapping in electrical tape only?. . .shudder. You are going to likely be doing a diagnosis and repair in the future, especially on a fan.
I have a 06 yukon denali, and I bought a similar resistor and all the connectivity looks just the same as yours. Once installed the fan won't shut off. What else could be the issue? My fan motor is new as well.
I did some research since mine is doing the same. I've read that the only other thing it could be is the temp control module in your dash. The part with the knobs to control temp and fan speed.
When I turn my driver knob the other side temp doesn’t move with it. I have to adjust both of them. How do you sync it where the driver knob will change both side temp?
@@boazlife7405 I ended up finding out how. Hold the auto button for 3 seconds. I had the truck for over a year and been turning both sides this whole time to get to same temp
Why did you splice the wires it should've just worked with the same fitting ? Also next time when you unplug your ground from your battery After you reinstall start the truck your heater will automatically go to 74 it has to recalibrate itself For about a minute then turn it off Wait 10 seconds then you're good to go. ......
It's your fan resister module. Which is what the video shows being hack/spliced in. Make sure your get the updated resister module which is the one you do have to splice in. I did mine on my 05 Silverado because my fan would just quit and then it would ramp back up in a couple of minutes. It is a very simple fix and has been working perfectly for a good 3 months now. I soldered and used heat shrink on after cutting the 3 wires to size which is always the way to repair wiring.
I have a GMC Yukon and my driver side blower and middle blower will randomly stop blowing the AC and start blowing the hottest heat I can image my Yukon can produce. All other vents are blowing AC perfectly. I can reset it by putting my vehicle in park and turning it off and restarting the engine. It will start blowing AC again but can switch randomly. It's not too frustrating til its 109 her in Louisiana and I am on the interstate and have to pull over off the road to restart the engine. My question is how hard is that to fix? Have you ever heard of this happening?
My 04 Chev 2500 HD blows cold left side and hot right side. Turning the truck off and on used to make all vents blow cold when on AC. That fix no longer works. I am told the problem is a faulty AC control module but have not attempted that fix yet. Did you get yours fixed
I have a trailblazer 02 and the problem is that the a / c module went off by itself and does not turn on but the light does come on but the module screen does not and therefore the a / c compressor does not turn on you know it can be
See you did same problem other videos by skipping. How is 1) a three wire plug fitting in the blower made for 2 wire. 2) how are you connecting the newer 5 wire plug to the harness that had 4 on original? ****update**** I got it fixed in a way. The back wire plug 🔌 to blower would just not come off. Too difficult to reach and control so I just cut the plug off new kit and spliced the wires. Obviously if the old connector has problems that won’t work. In the end everything was spliced and it ran properly
There is some potentially useful information in this. Apparently your replacing the OEM part with a different part that takes a different connector. It would seem the point of the whole video to explain (and demonstrate) precisely which original wires are tied to which on new connector. You just kind of glossed over it. A bit disappointing. You could have said, for example, "...just gotta cut these guys that run up to the spinny guy and take the new guy that comes with a pig-tail/connector guy and then the black guy connects to the grey guy and the red guy connects to the red guy and I should be using wire-nut guys but the guy at the store wasn't McGUYver and he guyded me to the wrong stuff so just stick all these guys together with some peanut butter and jelly or maybe some Elmers Guyloo or Guy's Super Glob Fuggut Stuff. Okay guy, let's see if it works."
Really? This gentleman takes his time on Christmas Eve to make a video to help others and this is your response? We didn't pay for this. IT'S FREE. WHY are you complaining about FREE HELP??!! And THEN you're attempting to be insulting... Wow! Your perspective and comments are a "bit disappointing". I'm grateful for free help and for those who take their time to provide it. Who made you the RU-vid critic? You are not funny either. You could have just moved on and kept the negativity to yourself. Thanks for taking the time to share Dustin T. You could have just fixed your truck and went back into your warm home with your family. Instead you took the time to help someone else. Thanks for what you're doing.
Janelle point is a it wasn't helpful if the replacement parts we're not explained no one is disputing he took his time on any certain day however if it's not explained properly it's a waste of both our time
Sorry to sound dumb but I came on this video and you didn't introduce what the problem was. I have a 2004 sierra and the heat and cold are off and on all the time. I run the a/c and it will run hot hold all the time. Likewise the heater runs cold and hot. I was going to buy a replacement unit for the dash? Its even worse in the summer at idle when the cool turns to super hot and fluctuates until I start revving the engine?? Any advice?
Do not need to cut any wires, remove the 3 wires from original connector and the 3 pig tail wires from the new harness plug with jewelers screwdriver and swap the 3 wires.
Brian Ko Yea you do. - notice the old is only 2 wires, the new part has 3. Second problem is how on earth is he connecting a 3 connector in a hole on blower made for 2? It’s like square peg round hole. If your vehicle can just plug and plug then you have the NEWEST blower, you’re comparing apples to oranges here.
Dustin, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge. I'm a novice but I understood you were connecting the same color wires together. My 2006 trailblazer Dash AC blowers quit working. Replaced defective actuator etc. and I've watched at least 9 videos to try to pin point problem. I must have missed the one by the PB & J sandwich guy. Please continue to video. Viewers can always ask question or for clarification.
Oh my gawd...did u really pull on that plug like I saw! Lmao wow. First of all, if u had ordered the right part u wouldn't of had to start cutting and splicing lol. 2nd, the name of ur video is misleading and incorrect! The part u put in is a resistor, 2 actually, one is for the 1 thru 4 setting on fan switch and the other is for the 5 setting...when ur blower motor screws up or something is really off in that box one resistor usually blows depending on where ur switch was set when it happened. The panel where your fan switch, temp switch, and defrost/feet/face switch is located is called the "HVAC control module", which is what I was looking for to possibly repair and I ended up here because u mislabeled your video! I'm outta here...don't hurt yourself lol
Dude you need to lay off the Starbucks and take your time and explain yourself better I was waiting the whole time to hear you tell me how much the part cost and you never said it once, don't you think it's important to tell people how much the part costs
Know what your talking about before posting videos. Thats the resistor not the module. Also isnt a original factory ac delco. Its an upgraded aftermarket korean job.
