Very happy to hear this. This is the reason why I do what I do to help as many folks as possible. Thanks for your comment. Blessings from windy California
How did it go? Everything running smoothly? Did you have any issues with your new axle fitting? Where did you buy from? I have a 2012 m3 2.5l. Can’t wait to get this done so I can get rid of some vibration and subtle clicking noise that has started.
Great video man! Shockingly seemingly the only one for the passenger side cv, too. It was my son’s first ‘major’ project on his own car so we wanted to diy rather than take it to a shop. Would have been way harder without your video. Thanks! Side note, we fought like heck to get the new one in. Turns out the retaining clip had somehow gotten out of round. Just picked up a new one for a couple bucks and it slid right in and locked in in just a minute or two!
@@gregmead007 super happy my video help you and your son complete this project!! I always try to show my viewers step By step on how to complete repair task. I am a great believer that if you are patient and willing to save some money you can achieve anything. Thanks for your feedback and support don’t forget to subscribe for more content. God bless from California
@@mthlay15 Will depend on the specific model and version of your car. I just went in to mazda today to help them get me the correct seal. Bring your vin number in with you and they can look up the exact part. I was lucky they had one left in stock so I didn't have to get it ordered in. They are super helpful to get you the right parts.
If you loosen the top bolt on the hub for the shock then you can hit the hub downward until off the shock. After that mine came straight up off the ball joint. The way it's angled even if it's loose the ball joint won't just drop out. Took me an hour to figure that out.
How did it go for you? Some people are saying to replace the control arm because popping out the ball joint will make the cavity slightly bigger and I’m guessing possibly looser. Did you replace the control arm? If not, has it felt loose at all or tight and good driving it? I’m going to do mine in a week I am hoping.
My axleshaft broke off and fell off the car on the passenger side. 115,000 miles,I hope that all I need to replace. I'm amazed you did all that with 1 hand.
Please, I have lost daylight. How do I get this new CV assembly on? Do I need to pinch the ring is there some special tool I need how do I get it on???
Do all the wheels have abs sensors? You mentioned the passenger side axle didn't have an abs ring. Is it only on the drivers side? I have a 2012 mazda 3. Been hard to find information on taking the ring off and putting on. Any tips? Some people were having to use a blow torch to heat up the ring before they put it on, so it looks like it might be a challenge? What would you recommend?
You didnt show the actual process of getting the new axle to seat on the inboard. Im trying now and its a beyatch to get it past the retainer ring. Ive tried knocking the end of the axke with a dead blow to drive it on, no luck. What did you do? It doesnt just slide into place.
Is it possible to have the wrong CV axle in cause no matter what I do I can not get my strut line back up with the kunckle if I leave the axle out the strut will go right into place. Vice versa putting the strut in first and trying to put the control arm into place it's like a 90 degree angle. Seems like the axle is to long
Its definitely possible, i work in parts at a mazda dealer and ive seen it multiple times with older mazda 3's and aftermarket axles. Its almost like the listing are wrong between auto and manual transmissions
Trying to find a CV axle for 2013 Skyactiv is a pain in the rear. I opted to go to a salvage and find a used one because you can't be sure an aftermarket will fit.
There is one possibility that your CV axle poop out while you struggle to put the lower ball joint inside the knuckle. It actually broke, so seems like it becomes longer.
Never seen anyone do this job with one hand (while the other holds a camera.) Probably should add a tip about how it kind of snaps back onto that spline when reinstalling the axle….usually a bonk or two with a mallet does the trick.
Very helpful video until the wheel bearing nut. Yes if you have an impact im sure it's easy. What if you don't have one? Mine is seized in there and I don't have an impact. I can not get it with a 5 foot snipe on my ratchet.
Great video it helped a lot I was wondering if you know I have to do the other side is it pretty much the same order of steps to replace the left side like I said with your help the right side went great any help or tips you can give would be greatly appreciated thank you
Thank you, definitely invest in one of you work on cars, they will make your life super easy!! Your basically using your own weight to pry down on the control arm and gravity will take care of the rest.
@@oscars-autorepair3236 What a neat tool. Thanks so much for this amazingly detailed and clear video! I'm wondering though if putting my car on jack stands will give enough clearance for this tool in its full range of motion needed? Or can you only do this with a lift? Also, I have been reading a lot of reviews on the pry tool about missing parts when they ordered it. Did you have issues with missing parts or the astro company? Hoping to get this repair done with little down-time for using my car for work. Thanks so much man.
Great job on the video, I'm trying to figure how that lower ball joint comes out, seems pressed in so I suppose pressed out? I had thought the whole lower arm needed to be replaced as one if you did the ball joint but now I'm not sure. Anyway this video helps me prepare for the cv axle I need to replace.
Much easier to just replace the whole lower control arm. Pressing out the ball joint and replacing it could lead to a loose ball joint since the hole will be slightly expanded from pressing it out. The control arm isn’t expensive and it’s much easier to just replace the whole thing than mess with replacing that ball joint.
@@butWhyDadI hope you are still with us. you should really get it changed. I will be changing mine soon. Been driving on it a couple years and it comes and goes I think depending on the temperature of weather. It’s not safe though. Some peoples cv’s last and some don’t much at all after vibration starts. I just simply did not have any spare money the last couple years to spare. They can’t explode of course but I’m guessing he just meant it can possibly bind inside and somewhat explode from jamming. Some people say the joints can separate if they are loose enough. I don’t think it will do anything other than loose drive power but I would not drive on it anymore than absolutely necessary.
Going for a hail mary here and hoping you're still active somehow...at 7:23 you remove a "lower ball joint". I stripped this and I can't figure out exactly what I need. Is there a specific name for this bolt/nut or is one of these items the correct one? You can drop these into google and it'll be the first result. 9YA0-21-430B 9YA0-21-20HD
@@oscars-autorepair3236 I'm sorry I was incorrect in my statements...I rounded out the nut/bolt not stripped it. Yes I also used an impact gun :'). Thank you so much for the replies!
So if you live in a 4 season climate, and have over 100k on the car this is nowhere near as easy. Disregarding most people DIYing it will not have a lift, and doing it on jackstands is a whole other animal, how fast these Mazdas rust up is stupid, so rain, snow, and debris during the year is a real problem. If you are replacing the CV's on jackstands use the CV as a slide hammer, just don't pull it apart, the bearing won't come out without ample force, so just push it in as far as it will go and pull out with some gusto, when it binds tap it back in a little with a hammer so it lets go, push in, and repeat, there is a retention ring on the end of the spline, thats what you are fighting on top of some corrosion, (it's fairly sealed ) , so a couple sharp blows you should feel it let go. The ball joint, and strut mount are hit and miss, if the bolt won't come out of the ball joint pinch mount... good luck. Same with the strut mount, you have to get one or the other to let go if you need to take extreme measures, usually involves parts being bought. If you find yourself in that spot well, if you had to buy any tools to attempt the job your in over your head. If you have a competent shop say with a large vice, sawsall and/or angle grinder, you can get a set of lower control arm for $80, take the knuckle and strut out as one piece, shouldn't have to spell out for you how that whole procedure would go. For reference, serviced 8 of these for a copier company, the where sales rep cars in PA, worst 7 years of my life.
@@oscars-autorepair3236 No problem. Watched your video because I haven't worked on one of these in 7 or so years, got a friend with a 2010, 158,000 on the clock , and could not remember how the passenger side seperated from the half shaft, (male or female) saw how yours was coming apart and thought, how nice would that be! Then thought, boy that won't be most folks experience here in the North East, so thought I would add some alternate tips.
I had to call a dealer, as online info left me with a confusing 3 different options. I have a 2006 mt 2.3liter, so your part numbers will be different.
