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HOW TO REPLACE DRIVERS CV AXLE ON A 2010 MAZDA 3

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Today I will be replacing the CV Axle on my girlfriends 2010 Mazda 3. She wanted to help and she did pretty good! This is a good video to follow if you want to learn how to replace the drivers side CV axle on a 2010 Mazda 3 or probably all the 1st and second generation mazda 3's. Front CV Axle Drive Shaft Replacement Removal Mazda 2 3 5 6 CX-7 CX-5 CX-9 CX-3. 2004-2011 Mazda 3 CV Axel Shaft Replacement
Here Is The Parts & Tools List!
CV Axle Slide Hammer: amzn.to/3Sbym3b
48MM Inner CV Axle Puller: amzn.to/498BjIN
TRQ Drivers Side CV Axle: amzn.to/48K9Wom
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Business Email: HaydenSchreier98@gmail.com
I appreciate all the help and support on this build! If you have any parts or tools for sale to help the build or if you wanted to send me something that I can unbox on the channel, let me know in the comments and I will open a P.O. Box!

Опубликовано:

29 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 46

@HaydenSchreier 2 месяца назад

**4 MONTH UPDATE USING TRQ CV AXLE** About 3months into using the TRQ brand cv axle my car started to develop a clunk sound (metal on metal clunk) when shifting from park to reverse and reverse to drive. Seems like the inner cv splines that connect to the transmission have developed play, were machined just a hair too small compared to oem or just too soft of metal. I ended up replacing with an OEM cv axle I found on eBay. Surprisingly looks hardly driven and no rust at all, still had paint on it. So for anyone attempting to do this themselves I highly recommend you either re-boot and re-grease your OEM CV AXLE!! or buy the best looking OEM online/junkyard cv axle or just bite the bullet and buy the OEM from dealer/online supplier ($350-400) the part number is GG6225600B TORQUE SPECS: The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft Ibs. The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft Ibs. The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft Ibs. The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft Ibs. The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft Ibs.

@_dondie_ 5 месяцев назад

I like how you made it into a step by step video tutorial. Everything is so clear. We need more tutorials like this ❤

@HaydenSchreier 5 месяцев назад

Glad you liked it! i will definitely make more!

@68pishta68 26 дней назад

Clip opening up Bro!! right in the Mazda manual. You DONT want the free ends of that wire to be outboard of the splines (clip hanging open down) but nested into the groove as you can literally bend the exposed ends into the splines and jam it up good. I initially had TRQ CV's but luckily had bought manual trans for my AUTO and one was 1" too long, returned them. I ended up with another brand and have a slight ting on R but I think my intermediate shaft bearing is bad. I also tried that C-shaped remover but it would not fit so I cut one out of 3/8 plate I had a scrap of. Worked great and no strut removal as I didnt have any room for a crowbar under there. Passenger side can be tapped out by hitting the CV shell itself.

@HaydenSchreier 25 дней назад

Watch the 1Aauto video at 12:00 he stated the ring should always be facing down. ru-vid.comUgkxeoeHY_rh5EeadmHyk3InEVzR7fgcWs_y?si=ygLeVkLCXpVvRJur it was my first time replacing cv axle. i since replaced the TRQ one as it was making a clunking noise shifting from park to reverse and into drive. i out a OEM one in and it fixed the problem. this time all i did was take the knuckle out of the ball joint and use a pry bar to pop the axle out. I did the whole job in 30 minutes

@Kobrakev 3 месяца назад

Mazda dealership wants to charge me 1 k for labor and parts you are saving me something like 600$ with this knowledge thank you for making this video. Hopefully i got this! 🤘🏾

@HaydenSchreier 3 месяца назад

$1k?!?!?! That’s insane. Go get 1AAuto cv axle, lifetime warranty and either the tool I used or a long metal punch and tap the back and it will pop out!!!! You do got this!

@Jeff-rk8hq 25 дней назад

@@HaydenSchreierlove the positivity and motivational energy Hayden. You seem like a very kind person. Many thanks for takin the time to make this vid for us Auto repair noobs

@gregsmith332 6 месяцев назад

The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft lbs. The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft lbs. The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft lbs. The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft lbs. The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft lbs. You shouldn't go gorilla on every nut and bolt with that 800 ft lb impact wrench. You don't want to put your girlfriend in danger because you didn't to use a torque wrench.

@HaydenSchreier 6 месяцев назад

Of course, safety is #1. My impact is rated at 400ft lbs and unless I’m sitting there hammering it with ugga duggas it isn’t putting that much torque on it. But you are right, when my 1/2 inch torque comes in I will retorque it all to spec. Thank you for the correct torque specs!

@StevenVigus 6 месяцев назад

Nice job on the how-to. Thank you so much for the lighting! It makes it easy to see what’s going on.

@HaydenSchreier 6 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful!

@patricknikolai4628 7 месяцев назад

Content, step by step, voice over, and helping out were well done! Please keep it coming!

@HaydenSchreier 7 месяцев назад

I will! Thank you!

@eric-anon Месяц назад

I watched many of those videos to get prepared to do it but they all miss the most annoying part: the part where you have to add transmission oil because it will leak when you remove the old axle and most cars don't have a stick above to fill again it's a pain you have to remove protection under the engine, find that damn filling screw, have the right socket and use a tube to fill. Also this oil has to be specific to manual or automatic they even have different kinds for different brands.

@HaydenSchreier Месяц назад

The amount that leaks out is quite minimal and if the fluid that comes out isnt bad and you have a clean bucket you can pour it back in. The 2010 mazda 3 has a dipstick on the top. Extremely easy to pour new or old fluid back in. the 2010 mazda 3 automatic uses specific MAZDA 3 fluid Type M you can get from the dealer or amazon. Otherwise you can use the direct manufacturer fluid which is IDEMITSU Type M Fluid

@eric-anon Месяц назад

@@HaydenSchreier hey thank you for the reply good video it is indeed easy job! I have seen videos where 2 liters would pour out. Did mine yesterday lifted only one side of the car so it would drip less. Mine is a manual 2013 so it doesnt have a dipstick on top .

@HaydenSchreier Месяц назад

@@eric-anon yeah that will make it a little bit harder with a manual. good idea lifting it on one side

@SAVING_ICONIC_MACHINES 7 месяцев назад

Hello mate good to see you still pushing on with the channel.how’s the golf build going.

@HaydenSchreier 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! Golf is done and waiting for its new home. Just looking for a new owner so I can purchase another project!

@owenmorehart1224 3 месяца назад

Nicely done! Thx for the detailed process.

@HaydenSchreier 3 месяца назад

of course!

@orangezest5501 15 дней назад

He had the right tool he needed to position in the front towards the right. Shocks do not need to be removed. That doesnt work use a giant pry handle.

@HaydenSchreier 14 дней назад

i ended up doing this a second time and just used a pry bar, i had a new one in in 30mins. yes show didnt need to come out but it was my time doing it so with the tool the shock kept getting in the way. moving forward a pry bar was so easy!

@AnthonyHawkins-gp4nx 2 месяца назад

i used a pry bar and had just enough leverage to pull it out.

@HaydenSchreier 2 месяца назад

I wish, my pry bar was too long to be useful

@leonardorodriguez6219 7 месяцев назад

Good stuff brodie! keep the content going!

@HaydenSchreier 7 месяцев назад

Thanks! Will do!

@ffblegend 6 месяцев назад

How long do you think this would take…if you have all the tools and you know what you’re doing?

@HaydenSchreier 6 месяцев назад

well, since ive replaced everything recently, nothing was rusty or seized. if it was rusty that adds quite a lot of time, same thing if you find other parts that need replacing. BUT if i was to do this again maybe 2 hours all set and done, taking my time.

@ffblegend 6 месяцев назад

@@HaydenSchreierThank you!!

@moparguy37 3 месяца назад

Im going to check my rear wheel bearings on my 2012 Mazda 3. I have a shake happening at 30mph and 55mph after driving 5 miles (heat related). I just replaced the front ball joint and the inner intermediate cv shaft thinking it was the carrier bearing but didnt help

@HaydenSchreier 3 месяца назад

Bent rim, bad tires, not balanced tires, bad alignment. Lots of things that would cause vibration. Bad wheel bearings usually is a loud humming. Like a overly loud road noise

@moparguy37 3 месяца назад

@@HaydenSchreier thanks for your reply I'll look more into it.

@moparguy37 3 месяца назад

@@HaydenSchreier Had the tires balanced didnt help. Doesnt seem to be any wheel bearing noise. Tires arent too bad but will need to be replaced within the next 6 months because of normal wear. I have more to look into, thx for your help on this

@HaydenSchreier 3 месяца назад

yes of course