Excellent video Eric. I just want to say that VCM was not the same every year. In the Odyssey's case, there have been 3 versions of VCM used to date: 2005-2007 - VCM-1 - VCM is only present in the rear cylinder head, 3 or 6 cylinder mode 2008-2017 - VCM-2 - VCM is present in both the rear and front cylinder head. All 3 rear bank cylinders can be disabled, or one cylinder on the rear (cylinder 3) and one cylinder in the front (cylinder 4) can be disabled at the same time. 2018-present - VCM-3 - Identical to VCM-1 Also, when there is a check engine light on for any reason, even if it's not related to the VCM system, VCM is automatically disabled. The VCM Muzzlers all only affect the ECT1 sensor, which affects the reading sent to the computer and the temperature gauge on the dash. ECT2, which controls cooling fan operation, is not affected. It has been determined through experimenting that the temperature threshold required for VCM to operate is 167 degrees Fahrenheit. So for a VCM muzzler to be doing its job, the temperature while cruising should be kept under 167 degrees. The reason why you were getting the check engine light for the temperature sensor even when you installed it with the engine off is that it not only has to be off but the engine also has to be cold, as some of the systems still remain active when the car is turned off, so it'll still detect you unplugging the coolant temperature sensor. If the resistance setting is too low, VCM will still engage, and if the resistance setting is too high, you'll get a check engine light for the coolant temperature sensor. The VCM DIPressor is not what most of us use. Generally we use the VCMuzzler II, the S-VCM, or the VCMTuner II as they are well-made products and have great customer support. The latter two are not resistor or DIP switch based. They use a microcontroller and are fully automatic, meaning once installed, they tune the resistance automatically and never need to be adjusted, whereas the DIP switch and resistor versions need to be adjusted as the weather changes. Also, unlike the resistor and DIP switch based devices, which can still allow VCM to come on in situations such as idling, the automatic devices will disable VCM 100% of the time.
That's great info. Thank you very much for sharing it. I'm hoping the PCM reflash that Honda did will address any adverse VCM issues. Time will tell I suppose. Thanks again for the input.
@@ericthecarguy Yes, I'm hoping it will work out good as well. Even if I don't necessarily agree with how you're going about it, I can still respect your stance. I really do hope it works out well.
Well this repair has certainly been and Odyssey! Heh, heh, heh... See what I did there? 'Cause the vehicle model is... Um, I'll just go sit over there.
Eric, your videos are so damn therapeutic, even when the fixes don't apply to me. Short videos about repairs are nice, but watching somebody go through the whole process is so fascinating and super enjoyable.
So I learned that paper towel with the nut in a socket trick from Eric a long time ago and it has been one of the greatest tricks to pass on to others. Thanks Eric.
Took a long trip in my 2008 Odyssey last month. We got a MIL after eight hours of driving every day - almost all of it on the interstate with the VCM system activated most of the time. Obvious misfire. Bought a cheap code reader at Walmart (who travels with their nice code reader?) Turned out to be a Cyl 3 misfire. Checked the plug - OK, swapped out the #3 coil (cheap enough) and started the drive home. Same thing happened at the same time with the same code. Decided to disable the VCM system with something called S-VCM Controller. It has no adjustments and handles everything electronically, instead of using DIP switches. Plugged it into the harness and the temp sensor, like the other one, and had to run a wire to the positive battery cable (there's a place for it). Works like a charm. Haven't seen the ECO light yet, and that's fine with me. BTW.... Eric, you rock. I really enjoy your videos.
YES, Their shouldn't be that much junk on that screen in only 70 miles. You just know it's going to cause a problem for SIR ERIC when he hands over the keys. Those types of systems are a " PAIN IN THE ASS ". GREAT VID. & YOU ARE A GREAT HUMAN BEING, SIR ERIC.
@@npolite22 Seeing that the standard oil changing intervals from the manufacturers are pretty long, I'd say it does not need to be a missed interval. I'd assume this could be prevented/prolonged with changing the oil more often and using high quality oils.
@@ericthecarguy But you had bad pressure switch to begin with though. Bad pressure switch + VCM muzzler = VCM muzzler is junk? That does not sound right. Then, you replace bad pressure switch and do not replace the muzzler = Muzzler did not do anything for me? I just do not understand your logic.
@Stranger Land Don't forget that I also had the PCM reflashed by Honda with the updates to avoid the issues the VCM causes. It's not like I didn't address the issue, I just didn't do it with the VCM muzzler. In my view, the van works as designed now. If you use the muzzler, your fuel economy will be compromised. I'd rather have the VCM and better fuel economy. In summary, the van is fixed. Just because I didn't fix it they way you thought I should does not change that fact. I personally don't feel the muzzler is the way to go.
@@strangerland9791 I do understand what he's saying. The muzzler cannot fix an issue with the mechanical VCM components, it's designed to stop VCM so the piston rings and spark plugs can recover. And so he had to actually fix that. At this point, the muzzler would just be for preventing VCM issues, and Eric has already said he's not interested in that. The VCM version 1 engine in this 05 isn't quite as problematic as the VCM-2 engine present in 2008-17 Odysseys anyway, even though VCM as a concept is still flawed. The VCM in VCM1 engines doesn't engage as much as VCM-2 does in normal driving to cause a problem, because there are fewer situations where 3 cylinders is enough power than there are where 4 cylinders is enough power.
@@ericthecarguy My service advisor at Honda (a former service tech) said that there were no updates for the 2005 Odyssey's engine/transmission ECU/PCM.. Any reflash should have been to original factory spec only. The best reason to use a VCM disabler is to prevent spark plug fouling, oil consumption, premature active engine mount failure etc.. Pretty much every VCM disabler is flawed by needing to adjust the resister depending on seasonal temps etc, even the VCM Tuner 1... but the VCM Tuner 2 automatically adjusts itself. It can even be set to give an audible alarm if coolant temp is too hot, and can be wired with a toggle switch to activate and deactivate the muzzler from the driver's seat (e.g. deactivate muzzler in town. activate it on the highway) The muzzler that you got was probably going to create issues anyway, especially if the van's recipient didn't know how to adjust the resistor... but if "ECO" was still engaging with it muzzled, then the resistor was not set "properly".
I'm so excited after a 50 min video it's looking good! I'm especially excited that we get to me the wonderful deserving person that is in need of this van. A+
thank you for this diagnosis. my 2007 odyssey exl J35a7 (VCM1) 242k miles, started having issues with high oil consumption and filling up of cylinders. while it wasn't just the bank1 i had a valve cover gasket issue as well. in the end after getting that complete valve cover replacement and intake plenum, its been ok. then after a year or so oil consumption 2- 2.5qts per oil change and then I started feeling the in balances in the engine when it shutdowns 3 cylinders and go away after hitting gas. I decided to do a VCM Delete with S-VCM Controller. so far its good. going to change the oil and look at its oil consumption and fuel mpg. I would of never known about the "MUZZLERS" out there with out this video. cheers
Well, you're definitely cementing my theory that Odysseys are what pay my bills. Love the diagnosis videos Eric, really reminds me of the old school videos. You're the reason I became a Honda tech!
@@dylanandersen9318 ah yea, how are the 2011-2017 ody 6 speed auts do they fail here and there?? Just read that a few are having total failures on 2022 ody 10 speed autos.
I see this all too often. Someone has a older car, namely Honda, and it begins to have issues. Owner gets "mechanic" to look at it. Good factory parts that almost never go bad, are replaced without needing to be. And replaced with junk parts, then the car still has a issue, ends up sold for junk. A vicious cycle
@@bizbot1655 You don't know much about vehicles whatsoever. And don't try to argue, you just posted proof you don't have the slightest clue what you are talking about on the internet for the entire internet to see... You shouldn't talk on subjects you know nothing about....
I just picked up an Accord at auction, primarily serviced by a independent garage. It went into limp mode, throwing many codes for ABS/VSA, check engine light for ECM failure and mass airflow. I changed out the mass air flow with a known good oem part and it was fixed. I got a $20 junk yard oem part.
@@midwestfarm757 This is common on many cars not just Hondas. Non-OEM MAF sensors often do not meet specs and do not work. Even thought the OEM part is more expensive do not substitute aftermarket sensors.
Slather on white GOOP waterless hand cleaner (not citrus or pumice) all over that dash, around vents, knee bolsters, etc. Wait >1 hour, wipe off with absorbent paper towels. Grime is lifted out, lanolin softens the vinyl, helps stop cracking.
Even though I don't need it (because I don't own a Honda), I really appreciate the fact that Eric points every single part no at the camera for people to reference. That's a very cool gesture (and helpful for some, I suppose)!
We had a 2009 Honda Odyssey Touring with the VCM...and Honda ended up replacing the VCM cylinder piston rings as the spark plugs were getting fouled...and we were using about a quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I thought about getting a VCM muzzler but was concerned about the unintended consequences of using it. The piston ring upgrade did improve mpg and reduced oil consumption by about half...but I'm still not sold on the technology. Of course, my wife loves the Odyssey and traded the 09 for a 2017 Touring Elite....and so far it doesn't seem to consume oil.
So nice to see this Fixing it forward -series going on again :) Interesting fixes for this Odyssey, looking forward to see the giveaway episode. And of course, what might be the next vehicle to be fixed.
Is the ACM: "active cylinder management" or "active control mounts?" J35A7 engines have special engine mounts to smooth out the NVH when VCM is active.
Chasing an issue like that can be incredibly frustrating. But you have to love modern cars these days. They become so incredibly complex just to try to save a tiny bit of fuel so that they are more 'green' but as a result become extremely unreliable and get totalled out and scrapped so much faster undoing any good that the gas savings might have done. Auto makers need to go back to KISS, keep it simple stupid. I would rather have a car that burns gas and will last for 2 decades rather then one that burns less but only lasts a few years. The EPA has pushed auto makers too far and have made it impossible to find a reliable car anymore.
Glad you made the decision to deactivate the VCM Eric. Back when you introduced this van and all it’s issues I had commented with some advice and what I’ve experienced with the Honda 3.5 and the vcm causing so many issues. Hopefully the van lasts for some time now for the new lucky owner. Edit: Well whoops guess I should’ve watched till the end before commenting. Nevertheless good on you for hanging in there and finding the fix, whatever that might have been lol.
Eric, I see now that I’m not the only one that gets stumped with some of these issues. I just spent the last few days chasing a problem. I haven’t found the problem but I will. Press on! 😉👍
Here's my theory:- The original pressure switch is/was fine. The whole problem originally was the blocked screen. When you fitted the new screen, you also fitted the (bad) new sensor. Once you got back to the original sensor (with a clear screen), all was well. Problem is there's something in the oil which blocks the screen. Eventually it will block enough for the problem to return unless you get whatever that is out of the oil somehow.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Cool that the screen remained clear now. If the error comes back, you know exactly where to look first :-) If it does, I think I'd get some of the cheapest available oil and do 3 or 4 oil changes running it up to temp in between each one, then swap out the filter on the last one. By the way, I've had the same deal with cheap coolant temp sensors for VW/Audi. The aftermarket ones are so much cheaper, it's worth trying a few to get a good one, but only if it's your car and you don't mind swapping them out a few times.
Yay muzzler! I truly don't believe you lose that much mpg. I've had a muzzler installed for 3 years. Zero problems and family trips still see decent gas mileage
I can't see how disabling a system designed to increase fuel economy nets you similar fuel economy. That would be a massive engineering waste on Hondas part if that were the case. I find that the people in the VCM muzzler crowd do a lot of justification of disabling the system. Not to say that Honda didn't have issues with it, just that I refuse to drink the VCM disabling koolaid. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy It's more about protecting your motor mounts (active ones = $$$), oil consumption, spark plug fouling and so on. The early implementation on the VCM was very herky-jerky. I'm telling you I still get very good gas mileage on an 05 with VCM disabled on long trips. The engine just seems to run better overall without VCM. The VCM was also in Honda's favor as they dodged CAFE fines from implementing this system so it's not all about netting the end user a little extra MPG. I would happily cut 1-2 MPG to avoid all the other issues VCM causes.
I had a similar problem with the VTEC screen clogging up on my CRV. I ended up changing the oil 3 times within about 100 miles. I think it was because of a lot of dirt collecting around the dipstick tube on the K24 and me clumsily knocking it into the valve cover when checking the oil.
@@midwestfarm757 - actually, i did clean that one too, but it was difficult to get to, I think I had to remove the belt first. I only cleaned that one once.
Have no need for a van but watching this series makes me want to run out and buy the 1st high mileage Odyssey I find just so I can pretend I know how to fix it when it gives me troublle. Keep up the good work sir!
I have 2 codes that are giving me such a headache and the codes are P1174 and P0305 previously was P0304 and from time to time it is both. I have replaced coils,spark plugs and even swapped coils to eliminate possible coil issues. Also replaced the iddle sensor,pcv valve,gaskets on air intake. There are times it runs fine, but when it doesn't I noticed it lacks power there was a moment when I accelerated to see how fast I could go it just stopped shifting after maybe 2nd gear and got to about 3500 rpm. Another issue that I have is just like in your video after the vehicle iddles for 3 mins my rpm go all the way to 2000 rpm
This video helped me a lot. The part that really helped was having the resistance of the oil pressure sensor. Turned out when i bought a new Dorman one, it was bad. The original was still good. Should have only changed the oil/filter and the VVT gasket. Thanks Eric, you have helped me out more than once!
Great commitment and sometimes a hard issue you seem to fix is a great feeling. I don't think this vehicle was as bad, or expensive, as the old Town&Country van? But still had some kinks to work out for sure.
Hello Eric,yes I'm late for this video but this past may I bought a 2005 Honda Odyssey (touring model) from our property maintenance guy where we live,now I've already replaced the battery and alternator and I'm also having an issue with the VSA but my Odyssey didn't go into limp mode instead it sucks the draw out of the charging system where to as apon restarting the vehicle say after 5 minutes or so ( like if I stopped for gas would be a good example) I turn the key to start the van but not enough juice to turn the engine over there for I have to get it jumped started to get it running again ( I plan on buying a jumpbox in the next couple of days to help if I get stuck again) now the touring model has a VSA on/off switch on the dash so I turned it off for the time being but I'm still dealing with this draw issue, there's some sparks when I hook the jumper cables to the battery terminals but stumped as to why the system weakens when I start the van at times and yes I have the key off and basically out of the igntion too,now this is not an everyday thing maybe once or twice every other week but the van is running temperature though...Any thoughts?? TIA
Eric did you try putting the old pressure switch back in? maybe it was just the closed filter and the problem only came back cause of the cheaper switch? edit: I finished watching and see that you did. lol good video man very engaging
Having VCM issues on a 2010 currently. It has the VCM on bank 1, just like this Odyssey, as well as on cylinder 4 on bank 2. I WISH the previous owner had installed a muzzler! Why? The piston rings have coked up with carbon and now It has random misfires. Requires new rings…. There WAS a recall for this, but this vehicle is out of that warranty date. This happens because the oil gets drawn past the rings when VCM deactivates the cylinders for eco mode. On reactivation, that oil gets burnt and viola - rings eventually have issues
No I haven't, you just haven't been getting notifications. Be sure to click the bell! I've been posting weekly for years. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
My check engine light just tripped in my 2010 Honda Accord EX-L (VCM) I been heard so many bad things about this motor and wish I heard them before I purchased it but I still enjoy my car
Yes, 10 years of damage has already been done but that doesn't mean it's too late to put a muzzler on, just to reduce any further damage. I bought 2010 Accord coupe about 2 years ago and once I saw how bad some of the plugs were and then belated researched VCM issues, I got a Muzzler and it runs much better now.
Very interesting how that screen keeps getting packed 🤔 wonder if it is junk being nicked loose from the cleaning you did hmm that's a ton of junk @EricTheCarGuy
After many bad experiences with aftermarket sensors (speed sensors for the transmission, camshaft position sensors, MAP sensors, etc.), I don't even consider anything but OEM.
Very intriguing problems and great video Eric very weird dosent make sense to me why when eco mode turns on the oil pressure sensor would drop to 0 psi tones of interesting problems in this video very intrigued 🤔 good episode @EricTheCarGuy
I really don't like the way the VCM Muzzler works. I do know there are other kinds on the market with automatic resistors and overtemp protection which seem slightly better. I'm glad I can disable VCM on my Accord with Ktuner though, much better method that doesn't involve tricking sensors.
vcm gasket, ive experienced the valve its self leaks and honda doesn't offer sandwich gasket, the pressure switches normally fail/leak , service bulletins out the ass. the cam end cap o-rings should be replaced at the same time the valve/gasket is replaced. pcv valve contributes to intake pollution, oil control rings love to freeze in the ringlands and after awhile kills rear converter. the excessive oil in combustion chamber fouls out plugs and throws fuel and oil from cyl into converter. I've seen people let the rings soak for a few days drain oil new plugs and prime new oil into system before restarting. I've performed countless piston ring jobs on odysseys, pilots, accord v6, ridgelines. replaced shortblocks on r19s because of coolant leak from a porous blocks, replaced pistons with new rings on k20-k24s even the tiny insight engines needed pistons. Ohh yea i cant forget about the high pressure power steering hoses that can really put a flame under your butt.
Great vid Eric! My wife's 2011 Pilot had the same issue. 3 trips to the dealer to fix and there is also a TSB out on it! They had to replace oil sensors and clean out and replace the spool valve on the rear of the system that controls the Eco mode! TSB suggested switching from 5W20 to 0W20 also.
I thought it was "universally" recommended to move any "normal" 5W20 application to 0w20? Same viscosity at operating temp, just closer to such when cold. Unless one's racing and going above operating temp, everything I've read indicates that's the best thing to do for engine longevity.
@@ratdude747 Good question. I used to use the 5W20 when I changed the oil because that is what Honda recommended (owners manual and oil fill cap). Now since I had that issue I use the 0W20 per the TSB.
I have a Buick Century, that had a Idle air control valve problem and when I would try driving it, the car would drive 60-70 mph on its own intermittently. I replaced the IACV and it did nothing, cleaned the throttle body, nothing, so I ordered a new pcm and sure enough that had went bad and only caused the idle to go crazy on me and that stumped me for the longest because I figured if the computer was bad then it would make everything go out of whack, but it didn't. Kinda reminds me of the problem with this van.
Very interesting results with the muzzling device - on some forums, folks preach about those things like religious zealots! We didn't have vcm on our 05 odyssey (it was only on the fancy pants versions like the EX-L, and we just had an EX) and the engine still ran beautifully at 284k miles when we traded it in, but have it on our 16 SE and it works really well. I'm amazed at how well they manage the vibration with the active mounts - you can't even feel it when the engine transitions to or is running on a reduced cylinder count!
Eric you stayed with it and got a good result, have a pat on the back, but don't get cocky! I would be interested if the gunk was magnetic, or if its just oil sludge? Seems like the filter is catching all the sludge built up in all the oil passages and around the camshaft, and, furthermore, being clogged is fooling the computer to think the sensor is out of spec?
I checked the screen a 3rd time before giving the van away yesterday. It was clean. I think it was just stuff that was knocked loose by the engine flush, but I'll continue to monitor the situation. Thanks for the comment.
I used a vcm suppressor, DIpressor. But if I had found this I would have considered doing this instead. The vcm suppressor works, but is glitchy when temperatures change, especially in summer.
The technology for the VCM muzzler has come a long way in the last few years. Mine is sealed solid state device that hooks up the same way but no switches. All in the computer chip in the small 1"x1" box. Works great. However, if you have mechanical issue with the system, the spool valve, then this is not going to work
Back in the day- I can't count how many electric carburetors, Air Injection Reaction (AIR) and other tree hugger wet dream gizmos we defeated, unplugged, or removed, just to make a Customer's vehicle run again. Now, with OBD II D-rating and a computer module running the show, it can still make it undrivable. This reminds me of that 8-6-4 nonsense years ago, deactivating half of the engine to "save fuel and lower emissions". That pressure sensor costs more probably because of more sensitivity and quicker response, but $200 is beyond stupid.
Eric just a thought here maybe the PCM needs to see zero ohms when the system is activated. The aftermarket switch would never read that as you proved many times. Put the OEM switch in walla. So, like I do all the time, you were just chasing. Main issue in my opinion is bad oil change maintenance before you got the Van. I have many Honda’s and the early versions of screen related transmission/engine oil filters were always issues. Key is to change oil on a regular (5k) interval and you don’t build up gunk. Love your channel bro. Between you and Eric O from SMA I get my daily fix of learning.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
Something else I noticed when you had that ‘pigtail’ on was that the bottom temperature on your scan tool went from ten degrees lower than the top one to sometimes fifteen degrees *HIGHER*, and never lower. Thoughts??
I just recently replaced the VTech solenoid on my CRV. I bought the part from eBay for $40,. I was surprised when I opened up the package, it was an OEM keihin.
I would really like someone to show how the VCM Muzzler affects the running of an engine. You almost did that , but your engine had other problems as well. I would like to put a VCM Muzzler on my 2012 Honda Accord that has done 120,000 miles but am reluctant until I see how an engine on a Diagnostic Tool behaves. with and without the Muzzler.
2006 Honda Odyssey I got misfiring codes P0300,p0302,p0304,p0305 So I adjusted valves , spark plugs replaced, coil packs replaced and still had the code p0300, p0304, p0305 but not p0302 So I cleaned the and replaced the gaskets and oil pressure switch on the VCM Solenoid Spool Valve and made sure it was moving freely Now I clear the codes and they come back within a few minutes after starting it when its cold But after it warms up to temp I can clear the codes and they don’t come back. Need help this one is throwing me a loop. I ordered a coolant sensor just in case
I just spent the day deciding which VCM disabler to get. After reading the S-VCM website about how the resistor method is a poor choice and why, I narrowed my selection down to the S-VCM and the VCM Tuner II. Both have pros and cons and which one depends on what YOU want. I just ordered the S-VCM because it seems to keep the VCM system disabled ALL THE TIME and yet allow true coolant temperatures in case of an overheat in contrast to the VCM Tuner II which seems to have the VCM running some of the time. My eyes and brain were getting blurry from reading all the material. There were other considerations but you folks will have to read the two websites and evaluate for yourselves.
worst case, cut the screen out.. it seems the screen being blocked is causing the majority of the issue. of course cutting the screen out would probably foul out the sensor.. and yes a 230 dollar part made in Japan is far more reliable than a 30 dollar part made "elsewhere"
Engine flush with that many miles on the odometer probably did more harm than good. I suspect that gasket screen will need to be cleaned quite often for quit some time.
Good point, and I feel the same way honestly. That said, I did pull the screen a 3rd time and didn't find any debris. I'm hoping whatever it was has worked its way out. I'll still be checking it though.
Hey Eric, same VSA issues on my 2006 TL base auto. I went around and cleaned ground connections and I no longer have the issue of tripping the computer system.
VSA is not the same as VCM. Vehicle Stability Assist. Vehicle Cylinder Management. As I mentioned in the video, the VSA light coming on is part of the 'limp in' strategy. Thanks for your comment. Glad you got yours fixed.
I think that’s what I’m going to have to do disable vcm I keep getting the VsA light and check engine light every now and then it’s annoying as hell man I think I need a new oil pressure switch
Just warning you, you have to be careful with that. The original emblem is really tough on there, and for good reason. An improperly applied emblem is going to fly straight into your face and hurt you in an accident if the airbag blows. The airbag already hurts enough, no need to add on to it. Instead, I've seen some people apply some paint to the emblem to get it looking better.
I have a 2010 Odyssey EX-L that had the front bank code stuck off. The solenoid gasket was leaking so I found an aftermarket gasket kit and replaced it. The engine started misfiring. I looked at the oil circuit schematic and figured out that the gasket was leaking oil internally causing the rockers to bypass. I bought the reluctantly bought the Dorman spool valve assembly replaced it with the the included gaskets and problem solved. The leaking gaskets caused oil pressure to get into the oil circuit that turns off the valves.
Worth noting that the 2010 VCM-2 engine is different in that it has the VCM on cylinder 4 in the front bank, whereas this VCM-1 engine on Eric's Odyssey only has it in the rear bank. But the same concept.
What about trying it with the old sensor? Could be that bad Oring... tho the gunk is the same lvl as when you first looked at it, but would clean it a few times and watch it, as it was only small trips to get to the same lvl of mess.
