Great video. Thanks! I just fixed ours in about 10 min with the info from this video. Honestly a fun repair as it was all easily accessible and no crazy tools required outside of a couple of screwdrivers, zip ties/snips, and a trim rivet pop tool. I found the black/red wire was indeed broken in two inside the harness I removed. I used the Dorman replacement just like yours and found the same changes on the part... missing plastic hook (used a zip tie around that part where you used electrical tape), and the missing slide-on anchor (used a zip tie under the middle of the existing slide part pop-riveted into the frame of the door). All worked great!
Excellent thorough video. The articulated harness thing on my 2007 broke, so I was happy to learn how to fix it here. Was dreading bringing the car to a shop without knowing what's involved.
Thank you very much for this video! I was able to get my sliding door working again thanks to you. I had checked the wiring and didn't find any broken wires, but one of them looked questionable (it was thicker like it was twisted or bunched) so I purchased a new harness. After removing the old harness I tested that wire for continuity and there was none. All fixed!
I checked our harness. There is no "broken" wire that I can find like in other vids. So I probably gotta replace the harness too. Thanks for showing us how its done!!
About that "broken" part. I bought one new, not from the warehouse, and it looks exactly the same. You have to use the tie. Thanks for the video. It worked well for me.
Thank you for your video! I had a broken wire and was able to complete the repair on my VW Routan, aka Chrysler Incognito, with aid from this video. You rock!!!
You rock, man. I had the EXACT issue on a 2003 DGC Sport; tho, a bit lazier & not as visually concerned - after the tots' vomit stains. I just worked the duct tape. But, I LOVE ur Amazon on the cheap nod:) I did the same with a Shark hand vacc that lasted only two years. Twice:)
Great video. I plan to do the same repair soon. My 2006 Dodge RampVan has 342,000 miles and the sliding door wiring harness has been replace once for $600 by a repair shop. Plan pocket the savings this time by doing the repair nyself. Thanks the video..
Thank you for this we are going to try it on our van since our track is shredded and the cable is starting to get caught causing the door not to close!
I have repaired both sides of my 2004 Grand Caravan by the simple wire splice method. Tthe repair has lasted longer than the original. Also to all Automatic door owners. When the door is opened or closed manually there is a magnetic disc in the Power door moror that "disengages" the motor so that the door moves freely. I have found over time that the disc will keep the motor magnetically engaged and make the door difficult to move manually (feels like you are working against the stagnant motor). When I disassemble the motor and clean the disc it the manual operation works easy and "free". But this is often short-lived. Is there another way to clean the disc to have to keep for sticking over time.
Help did repair like video. However now van will not start. No volume on radio and instrument panel not Working. Do not understand what could have gone wrong tested all fuses under hood all good. Ran before harness installation.
I've had weird stuff like this happen where the instrument panel stops working, etc. EVERY time it has been a loose battery cable. I finally changed the factory strap clamp to a more heavy duty type which solved it for years. Then recently my wife said the headlights were shutting off. I checked and the battery terminal was loose.
Does this wiring harness also power the power locks on the sliding door? The power lock stopped working on the drivers side slider. I checked this track harness and saw damaged wires so I’m thinking this could be the problem. Thanks for the video!
I have a 2003 t&c..and the material covering wires freyed pretty bad..just need the harness fixed I think and not wiring... Haven't had a go at it yet..
I'm going to end up having to replace mine I bought a used one and the people I got it from had frayed one of the wires in there so now my wipers and everything just go off at random
I tried connecting the wires back one by one and it worked, at the other side the metal that locks the door in place was bent so that’s why it is not staying there, so one side working properly and the other needs a new metal on the floor, but it needs to be on an exact position, I tried but got tired after 3 days or almost one week to find out that was the reason the back door behind the driver is not locking open.
I tested the speakers and the stereo, and I finally saw in another video the problem is that the amplifier doesn’t turn on with aftermarket stereo, what I needed to do was to put a wire from the amplifier fuse to the ignition fuse so it would work just with the engine on, but my husband thought it is discharging the battery, I know it’s not, but I don’t want to waste my time trying to explain again and again, so, after so much work trying to fix and finally fixing, had to take it apart.😂🤣
I did a quick search and found a video for a 2010 VW Routan with sliding door problems. The video did not include a fix, but I could see that it has a wiring harness/track just like the T&C, Grand Caravan, etc.., so these will fail and cause misc. door issues. It could be other things like a controller or sensor, but these wiring harnesses are by far the most common failure point and about 5 years is a good run (less on the passenger side if you drop off and pickup kids at school, etc.). Maybe there is a recall, but most like the dealership will want to charge like $500. For a $125-$150 part it might be worth a try.
$76 on Amazon for a Dorman (747-320 Driver's Side / 747-311 Passenger Side). More for the OEM MOPAR part, like $150. A dealership would charge like $175 for the part and $175 for labor. The Dorman part is working fine for me, but the MOPAR part is a bit better quality and fits a bit nicer.
@@willis19711 I was told the door had gone past the stop. That I should lift up on it, going back over that stop where it would again slide free manually. When I did this it lifted the bottom roller out of the track, lol It did allow me to move the door back to the closed position. BE CAREFUL not to damage the wiring track assembly! $$$$$$ Please communicate with me as to what you find to do next. I'm frustrated. kb5eau gmail
