Did the sea foam treatment last week on my 06 GS. Used a 2x4 to hold the throttle steady😊. CEL and VSC lights did come on as expected. Let it hot soak for 15 min then took it on a very aggressive drive. SO much smoke came out of the tail pipe upon driving while sputtering a bit. Cant emphasize how important the aggressive drive is - getting the engine fully opened up. My lights actually ended up turning off by themselves about a day later. Thanks for the video!
3:44 This vacuum hose that you are connecting is a good location to inject cleaner into the upper intake manifold. Disconnect the hose where it leads into the surge tank and inject it there.
GS350 engines have a different system than the Euro Direct injections which suffer bad carbon buildup. So while it may happen it is not very prevalent. " It not common on the 2GR-FSE. Lexus added port injection on the 2GR-FSE. It has the best of both worlds. Direct Injection into the cylinder and Port injection in the intake stream. That will wash off the carbon buildup on the back side of the valve. The 3GR-FSE and the 4GR-FSE only have direct injection".
@@billybob2844 Up to 2006 GS300, it’s only GDI so carbon build up is bad. But starting with 2007 GS350, they have dual injections to keep the valves clean from carbon build up.
There’s a finger size vacuum rubber cap on the left side of the manifold, right behind the throttle body, sitting horizontally held by a metal clip. You should be able to spray through there, much easier without taking off the intake and engine cover.
If getting Seafoam into the TB is the objective, then perhaps that's easy, but if the objective is to properly clean TB, then you have to expose TB. The reason is the carbon is kind of baked onto the round flap inside the TB and requires some scrubbing to remove them, and simple spray won't get them all off, particularly the back side of the plate and edges.
@@DIYLifeSkills you can spray the plate and wipe it down with a paper towel both sides and see how black the towel gets. The vacuum line method is recommended especially if you have an electronic throttle so you don’t damage any sensors on the way through.
There may be comments about Kano LABS Kreen. This is the only know engine and injector treatment that is designed to maintain fleet vehicles since 1930s. You may call an speak to Kano LABS engineers. There is an amazing improvement when just adding Kreen before an oil change. You may add the Kreen to the oil inlet while the car is running and immediate observe improved performance, noise clacking goes away, . The other part of the treatment is to add the Kreen to the gas tank. As well as the Spark plug wells an oz. Of Kreen in each. Then run the engine as described for a few min. Then replace oil. This is so that any concerns about the old seals of the valve cover will be avoided. There is absolutely no risk to improve your cats performance. Sea foam does not do this. Kreen is a special lubricant and cleaner that combines with the carbon such that it is suspended in the oil. You will not risk any of the concerns from other methods. 8 suggest that the Channel evaluate the use of Kreen treatment.
Are you sure the GS350 needs Seafoam? It has direct and port injection so, the valves always get cleaned but the GS300 only has direct injection so it will definitely get carbon build up.
You have to Becareful when you do this SeaFoam, I did it once on a Gs300. Same thing happen Random Miss fire. Seafood actually destroy all my catalics. Ended up with a Huge bill to replace cats.
I think that’s extreme case. Seafoam is pretty safe to use. That said, I think it’s only effective if you use it regularly, like at least annually, otherwise, hard baked on carbon on GDI engine do not get cleaned much. I ended up doing manual carbon cleaning in intake valves and you can see how thick and hard the carbon build up was. Even soaking with carbon cleaning solutions still requires lots of manual scrubbing with brush to get carbon loosened. Here is the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m0fGP3MrqFQ.html
I have full series of videos on this that includes, carbon cleaning of piston heads & intake valves, and spark plug change and oil change afterwards. It's running great right now.
Hi. Well I've seen a video where you used your boroscope and it clearly shows carbon build up on the piston tops. That video was from 3 months ago. You used seafoam 1 year ago. So basically the seafoam didn't work. I would have thought the boroscope would have shown the valve tops and stems. How come your video didn't show this? Do you think using the seafoam was a waste of time and money or did it actually work?
@@sydsnott5042 I didn't have borescope back when I did Seafoam, so it's hard to tell the before and after results. I've seen other videos where Seafoam does remove some carbon, but I think it'll take multiple attempts to remove lots. The best is to do the piston soaking like I did in one the videos. This definitely removes 90+% carbons. But be sure to watch my video on "hydrolock" to protect the engine when doing piston soaking.
Which part do you push in? Because the center pin is forcing the legs to spread out, and by pulling up on the center pin, the legs can close (making them skinny) to be able to pull out.
@@awesomusmaximus3766 Ahh yes, when the center pin head breaks, you can just push it through. I was just trying to reuse them. The Lexus clips are pretty durable and can be reused many times. I bought some replacement clips from Amazon and on eBay and they are so flimsy that they break after each use.
I tried this is my 2013 Lexus GS350. Was getting a lot of smoke but the check engine light started flashing. I got scared and stopped. After 15 minutes of sitting, started the car and everything was normal. Did you have a flashing cel?
White smoke after seafoam cleaning is quiet normal and expected. It's also quite normal to get temporary misfire after Seafoam cleaning because remaining cleaning solution distorts optimal fuel & air mixture. Follow the instruction closely. After the spray, you need to let it sit for x minutes (which is attempting to loosen the carbon), and afterwards, drive it spiritly to burn off remaining seafoam and any loosened carbon.
Depends on how many miles you have and how much carbon is built up, the more effective way to clean the carbon off piston tops is doing deep soaking like I did in this video with great results. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SS8vFbBLIG0.html&ab_channel=DIY%26LifeSkills If you are near or over 100K miles, it's easier to do piston top carbon cleaning and replace spark plugs at the same time, since you have to remove them anyway. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7KEB6DJeEFI.html 2013 is not GDI, so I'm thinking your intake valves are probably OK from heavy carbon build up, but in case you are interested in the future, here is the video on how I clean it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m0fGP3MrqFQ.html&ab_channel=DIY%26LifeSkills
Thanks for your reply! I have 240k miles and have never done a “fuel induction service”. I waited about 15 minutes. But then again, I only gave 2/3 minutes worth of spray through the throttle body, since the CEL started to flash, we got worried and stopped. I just replaced spark plugs 10k miles ago.
I have seen a lot of videos of people who have the is250/350, and they use the line coming from break cylinder but I definitely didn’t want to to hydrolock my engine. 😂
@awesomusmaximus3766 Don’t be scared of brief (5-10 mins) of rough engine during idle and while driving afterwards. That’s from leftover cleaning solution just getting burnt out the engine.
I drive a gs350 2008. The VSC and TRAC leds came on. Trouble codes were for missfire on different plugs over 2 days, off and on. Happened during cold start. After engine warms it had less of an issue. After a couple of days of troubleshooting and searching the club Lexus forum, I determined it was the same issue many other users have with this model. Six months ago when I first bought the car I replaced the spark plugs with cheaper Autolite copper plugs. Within six months the plugs began to foul. The other day I replace the plugs with Denso iridium plugs, very expensive. But the problem is gone after clearing codes the engine runs good with no misfires.
Better approach is use ODB reader to read the codes. If you don’t have one, go to auto parts store and they’ll read it for you. VSC and CEL comes in for many many reasons.
Since I regularly maintain my car, it was running just fine before. My purpose here was to keep up the maintenance like this so that I don't run into a problem. As you can see in the video, my TB was not that dirty because I had already done it last year. In other used cars that I bought that never had TB cleaned, I notice immediate improvement in smoother idle RPM and just slightly more sharper acceleration, particularly from stop. In the future, I will do 0-60 test before and after and full tank MPG measurement to see if I can get actual measurable differences.
@@DIYLifeSkills I have seen lots of owners says it did harm than good for older engines and It can leads to more complicated situations that they never expected to have after using these fuel engine cleaner. I have used Lucas on my 11 Honda Crosstour and didn’t really a much of a differences in performance.
BTW, the white smoke and check engine light coming on is pretty common because the air-fuel mixture is temporarily thrown off due to the carbon spray. Once you start driving for about 15 -30 minutes and burn off all cleaning compound, the engine will come back to normal. If you don’t have ODB reader to clear the code, auto parts store will do it. Cheap ODB reader, which is really good to have, is under $20.
Yeah you have to do what’s comfortable. I’ve been doing carbon cleaning and using fuel injector cleaners regularly in all my cars for nearly 20 years without a single issue. These type of cleaning is more of preventive maintenance and it’s bit difficult to notice a huge difference. Just like an oil change, you won’t notice any big difference, but we know it’s important maintenance to do.
Updates on how your Lexus performs now that a couple of months have passed? I may want to try this on my is350. Despite the carbon issue not being as bad as the 250 models, I suspect subtle carbon build up on mine on the top end as it is pushing 120k miles. There is a very slight vibration that can be felt through on my driver door and steering wheel when the car is idle in drive.
Sorry, I just saw the message. My 2006 GS300 was running just fine before the Seafoam and also after. However, we all that all GDI engines are vulnerable for carbon build up, so I plan to do this once every 5000 to 10,000 miles or so. Also, if you haven't replace the PCV valve, which is super easy and cheap to do, especially if you notice oil burning and oil level going down 1/2 to 1 qt every 1000 mile or so.
Hi Curtis, quick update. I had bought "Bar's Valve Seal Oil Consumption Repair" and "Mystery Oil" treatment while back ago and was going to do a follow up video on oil consumption and further engine cleaning, but due to the pandemic, I've been working from home for nearly 12 months and it'll probably continue for first 1/2 of this year, and having 3 cars to drive didn't give me enough mileage to do more follow up videos as intended. So recently, I've been working on things annoying things that were broken, but didn't hurt the driving like, the rear shade not going up fully, blown subwoofer, and replacing the fuzzy backup camera. Once I can start to log more miles quickly, I will do a follow up videos related to carbon cleaning progress and oil consumption improvements.
I've had some minor accessory issues like Subwoofer going out, electric rear shade not fully opening, rear view mirror discoloring, but the engine and the transmission has been very solid for me, but I do proactive maintenance work regularly. My next video will be the cost of ownership and all the work that I've done to the car in the past 20 months, so come back and check it out.
