NOTICE: Use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and lift the metal frame brace along the edge of the pan out of the way and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling and chewed knuckles getting the three difficult pan bolts out! I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out by fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket. I appreciated torque specs being included in this video (that said, I guessed at the torque of the frame bolts when reinstalling and went with 80 ft lbs, considering them similar to a wheel lug.)
Did I miss the size of the fluid pan bolts, that's the only one I was wanting to know and I think the only one I didn't hear, looking at this for someone else
Hi! It seems, now dont quote me on this, the correct torque spec for re-installation of this member is 70 ft/lbs. I found a factory service manual image of the "front suspension crossmember sub-assembly" of an 06 Rav V6 4x4 🫡
I wish I could find a mechanic who was as competent and thorough as you are! Most just want to get finished, rush through the job, would never consider using a torque wrench for this type of service. Thank you!
@@db5112 I really haven't noticed any difference in shifting because my rav4 has always shifted smoothly. What was fascinating about changing the fluid and filter at 160,000 miles was how pristine the transmission was. When cleaning the transmission magnets I had hardly any metal shavings on the magnets and the original transmission filter was about as clean as I have ever seen. The lack of metal shavings on the magnets or in the filter was a solid indicator that the transmission is working about as efficient as possible. My 2008 rav4 is now at 190,000 so I will be changing the transmission fluid again this summer. I wish you good luck and have a grrrreat day!
Wow, a mechanic that properly vents exhaust gases! I couldn't get the idiots I worked with to do that. We even had a vacuum system. They refused to hook up. Makes me happy to be out of the shop.
Does your Rav4 have a sticker on the transmission fluid dipstick reading " Do not change ATF under normal driving conditions " ? How many miles on your Rav 4 ? Would like anyones thoughts on transmission shock. Thanks
@@baron7024 change the fluid dont go by the sticker, its an eco tax thing just like the 5w30 thing. Do some research ull see how we the consumers are getting bent over
Hola hoy cambié el aceite de mi transmisión Toyota rav4 2005 anda 185,000 millas tenía mucho miedo que me quedara fallando saqué el aceite muy quemado luego el filtro armé hecha cuatro litros y calenté pase las velocidades p,n,R,D,2,L estacionado 10 segundos casa marcha cale el carro y me quedó super 👏🏽👏🏽 la otra semana drenare de nuevo y le pondré nuevo lo are tres veces la tercera semana cambiare filtro de nuevo asta que quede líquido nuevo 😊saludos desde new Orleans
I have read on Toyota forums about people's transmissions shifting odd after using Valvoline Max Life instead of Toyota WS fluid. In fact, one guy then drained the Max Life, replaced with Toyota WS, and the issue went away. I will stick with Toyota WS.
A combined 945k miles between my three Toyotas that require WS fluid, have done drain and fills with Maxlife on all of them multiple times over all the years of ownership….zero issues
Great descriptive instructional video👍😊 I would not use anything but the WS trans fluid. There are specific friction modifiers that are only designed for Toyota transmissions. Nice shop you have.
what i found out from another vid you can drop that side rail that will give you more clearance..stay with the oem filter and oil less trouble that way..4 17mm bolts.
This is absolutely right -- use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling getting the bolts out. I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket.
For those who want a complete fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp. 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the trans, torque converter, and radiator cooler with All New fluid. Happy motoring!
Perhaps rather than exchanging 40% New into 60% Old by "Pan-Drain"; making a Second Video demonstrating a 100% New "FULL-FLUSH" method as described above. It certainly is better for the transmission than the much more expensive commercial-machine Pressure-Flush which provides a 100% New, without the risk of damage to the transmission seals. People come to your channel because they trust working on their own vehicles (-vs being ripped off) and like saving money. So please consider a Video demonstrating this more efficient method. -- Your viewers will flock to see it!
Good video thanks its well done. But I would use the Toyota filter, and Toyota AT fluid exclusively only. I'm not a Toyota driver or owner but I do know the value in using OEM's fluid and filters for this type of service. Plus that old fluid is toast by it's appearance, So I'd put the 3. 8 in as you mentioned. With one exception. I'd remove a transmission cooler inlet cooler line or the outlet one, whichever is most accessible and temp reinstall it so it can be easily removed. Then I'd start the engine and run it cycling shifting as you did briefly. The transmissions circuit will have fluid in it already as it doesn drain out from the pan. I'd drain 1 qt or 1 Liter from the disconnected line until the remaining old fluid has cycled out through the the cooler as it's supposed to do (stop the engine each time to avoide a spill and draining to much fluid at a time and allows the fluid to be added slowly through the dipstick holder or a fill bolt hole). Do this before replacing the removed under covers. You need someone to assist you to do this as you drain 1 out and put 1 in. I'm guessing the Rave 4 transmission holds about 9 ~ 12 guarts? So what this does is take the remaining old fluid in the torque converter and the trans mission circuit and allows it to be purged through a cooler line until it's changed out. Find out what the transmission AT fluid capacity is. If you buy OEM fluid and filter ask the dealer for the transmission fluid capacity before you buy from them, they'll usually accommodate you. I'll leave it at that. If your not able to understand the procedure mentioned or unsure research this on RU-vid and get a basic understanding of an AT. The Toyota shown has a drain in the oil pan and allows you to drain most of the sumps fluid. Typical of Japanese manufacturers to do this, not so with domestic ones where the pan allows all the fluid to spill out on removal as it has no drain bolt = messy. Have plenty of cardboard on hand and use it liberally to cover the proposed drain area.
Thank you for this video most people I see do this don't even change the filter. So they basically run new fluid with a dirty filter. Great job, great video
Definitely. I changed the fluid and filter in my 2010 RAV4 and had to drive it until fully warmed up to read the dipstick accurately. Also the Toyota WS ATF fluid seems light in color and was very difficult to see on the transmission dipstick. The Toyota ATF fluid doesn't appear to be synthetic as it doesn't say synthetic on the bottles and at around $10 a quart next time I'll use the Valvoline synthetic that's WS compatible at $4.50 a quart (walmart). It took 5 quarts to fill it up not the 4 quarts some videos have stated. I spent more time filling up the transmission fluid level correctly than I did replacing the filter!
I just drained the transmission in my wife's 08 RAV4. I used only Toyota WS fluid. Easy job with that drain bolt. Shifts fine at 72,000 miles. All good for 30,000 more miles. Use only Toyota parts.
Yes great video , when you have proper tools and equipment.. Need a video on how easy it might not be when all you have is vehicle on ramps and doing the job laying on your back on the floor
Then it would like all the other videos with poor lighting and camera angles 😜. But seriously, I feel your pain. I hope seeing the process under favorable conditions helps make things easier when they're not. Thanks for watching and contributing to the community.
Good video. I have a car Toyota RAV4 2008 limited. It’s nice car. You video is help me for many questions. Thanks. I hope will many video about thise car
How much ATF is "left behind" in the converter and tranny when this procedure is done? I suppose that fluid is simply mixed in with new fluid- correct? Thanks, Brian
Yes, the new and undrained old fluid mixes. There's a fair bit of fluid that doesn't drain when replacing the filter (cooler/converter). You have to do a flush/exchange to replace all the fluid. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ntFVCVW-lG8.html
Ideally you would replace the filter, add fluid to the pan, disconnect the cooler line, and go straight into the flush service. This wastes the least amount of fluid and gives the first engine start a clean push of fluid through the filter and transmission.
I went to the toyota dealer to change the aft and he didn't want to do the aft change because according to them its use for life! My 2011 RAV4 has 150k miles on it, I have had no problems so far with the automatic transmission, should I change the aft anyway?
Use the Toyota fluid, WS type more than likely. Valvoline makes a WS (World Standard) synthetic fluid for these as well. I have a V6. Check and make sure you use what your specific car calls for. It should say on your dipstick
I can only hope that my mechanic does this good of a job. This is simply top-notch work. I was quoted $225 for my 2008 with V6. Is this a good price? Includes filter and 4 quarts of fluid.
It comes from the factory with a strainer (metal mesh screen). Many people will perform a fluid exchange without doing the filter. I prefer to replace the filter with a conventional element as part of routine maintenance every 30-50k.
The video was great but you didn't mention how long it took you to complete the job installing the filter and the fluid, know how much it cost you for supplies.
Cost changes with time and brand of fluid/filter used, but around $60. I'd plan on about an hour to do the job. You may find the link in the video description helpful as well. Thanks for watching!
Hi I had questions for transmission oil change. so every time when you have to change the transmission oil do we alway have to change filter too or depending how old the filter are? Sorry to ask you but just for knowledge man.
Hi, I have 3 doubts firt the gasket ring that is on the filter need to be replaced? 2. Is required to use 3M glue for the big pan gasket? 3. As you changed only the pan fluid. when this new fluid mix with the old one remain in the transmission since it wasn't flashing, is any consequence or problem? Or how to know is the same synthetic fluid remain inside and the new one. Sorry for my spelling, thanks.
