2006 Bad Boy Buggy BB-AMS4 4x4 48V Electric Cart - Symptoms - Tests - Need Help w/ Diagnosis Please!

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• 2006 Bad Boy Buggy 48V MODEL BB-AMS4 w/ Navitas DSE1000-HF2 controller (don’t think this controller has the fault code flashes?)
• Bought it from a friend who bought it from an older gentleman that said he put it away working in the winter and got it out and it did not work. The unit is spotless on the underside, no rust, hardly looks like it was ever used.
• Turn the key, NO solenoid click.
• Dash meter shows 48V
• • Headlights and cigarette lighter does not work. I finally pulled out the panel where the ignition is and found 2 relays tucked down in there. I tested them, both no good. I went to autozone, they cross referenced a relay that was $40. I needed 2, they had 1. The person went over to the aisle and found generic ones what had the same numbers on the poles and prong pattern. Only $8 each. Plugged them in, lights and cigarette lighter worked! Cart still didn’t move and no solenoid noise. THE KICKER, I turned the key on and off several times, hitting the pedal, flipping the switch that has the blue on it which I assume is forward and reverse. Well, smoke rolled out from the relay and burned it up again. No lights, no cig lighter again. EDIT…. I tested where the relays plugged in, 50v coming to them. The kid sold me 12V relays. Probably why the price difference. I’ll be back to buy the $40 ones but it still didn’t make the cart run with the 12V ones
• Load tested all (2019 year) batteries = good
• 50V coming out of the battery pack
• 50V going into B+ and B- of the controller
• 50V at the back of the charging port
• Continuity tested all the dash switches and ignition = good as far as I can tell
• Unplugged pedal under the seat, used ohm meter on red & yellow wires, hit pedal, got a reading. (don’t really know how to test the pedal. Included in the sale was a used/broken red part that is part of the pedal (maybe potentiometer?) hiding under the cart. Have not exposed that area yet.
• Solenoid on driver side - checked the small metal screws for the coil perpendicular to main lugs for continuity, yes.
• Solenoid - Key ON or OFF, 50V from the main negative battery pack to the bottom lug
• Solenoid - Key OFF, main negative battery pack to the TOP lug 18V
• Solenoid - Key ON, main negative battery pack to the TOP lug 25V
• Solenoid - Key OFF, main negative battery pack to the BOTTOM lug 31.7V
• Solenoid - Key ON, main negative battery pack to the BOTTOM lug 25V
• I have watched youtube on how to test solenoids. None of them looks like this style with main lugs on top and bottom. I am scared of doing something wrong and I don’t see how to get them out either. Maybe if I pulled a battery.
• Reversing contactor (looks like 2 solenoids bridged together on passenger side)
• -Key OFF where the wire F wire from the controller plugs into it to main negative on battery pack is 18V
• -Key ON where the wire F wire from the controller plugs into it to main negative on battery pack is 35.2V
• checked the small metal screws for the coil perpendicular to main lugs for continuity, yes.
• Other than what is listed here, I don’t know where any other fuses are to check
• I don’t see any type of tow switch
• I assume the switch on the dash with the blue lens would be the forward and reverse switch?
• I have not tested the motors but it seems unlikely both would be bad. (found how to on youtube if I need to)
• Have not exposed or tested the red part in the pedal switching (maybe potentiometer) nor know how
• I have not tested the controller nor know how

Опубликовано:

18 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 84

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

I never really clarified several of the things we figured out. The relays needed to be 48v, not the 12v someone must’ve replaced the stock one with. That fixed headlights and lighter plug. The things at the end of the video that I said I didn’t know how to test, I know how now thanks to a friend and research. I also tore down both solenoids and cleaned everything. They worked and looked new rather than the green copper look. The front differential got new top bearings. In the end, i made a chart that shows how to test each pin in the controller and what the reading should be. It was the green Navitas controller. I sent it in through my buddy and had it rebuilt. By the time I was done, the cart was like new.

@loganedmonson3469 3 года назад

Also to Logan.s.edmonson@gmail.com , I’m working on same project

@coachmiami 2 года назад

Are you still here and do you have wiring diagrams? I replaced everything - batteries, sent the controller to FSIP, have tried to check the diodes, switches etc. Traced all the wires (what a mess!). Can't get the controller to send ground to the solenoids. Tested both. All cleaned wires and terminals.

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

I know how to test and fix almost everything now on these classic versions. I went through this whole cart

@fernandog.semiao265 3 года назад

I have a 2011 Bad Boy Classic, trying to troubleshoot. The forward and reverse do not click on the Solenoid when pushed. Cleaned all batteries and terminals. Not sure what to do next. Would appreciate any help

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

@@fernandog.semiao265 do you have a single green controller in the back of the cart like I do or do you have two controllers? one in the front and one in the back

@fernandog.semiao265 3 года назад

@@freshmaker5 I have 2 controllors in back. Both have blinking green light when I turn switch on

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

@@fernandog.semiao265 I only had one controller which did not have any lights. You should find the codes meaning of the blinking lights and you’ll know what to do.

@richiechop 2 года назад

@@freshmaker5 been working on my Badboy classic for a while and I’m also down to it’s now running ok everything working but I can only go about two miles in woods before days I need to charge on dashboard. And loose power going uphills in woods . I also have two controllers . So you suggested look for blinking lights on both blue controllers? And then look up the code ? If I need new controllers can you recommend the two I need ? And is it true I must ship old controllers to the seller of new ones ? Thanks in advance. Richie

@douglasvillanueva2276 10 месяцев назад

Great video buddy, do you have the wire diagram fron the motor to the contactor and to the controller?

@rplaw10 4 месяца назад

Can you tell me which color wires go into the key switch? Please and thank you

@PalmettoBatteryPros 2 года назад

Would you happen to have any diagrams/schematics for 2016 Recoil IS (4 and or 6 seater)??

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

Only bbb I’ve had is this one. Sorry

@raymassey8178 3 года назад

I don't see any reference to the 48v dc to 12v dc converter, have you checked it

@golfish8589 3 года назад

I just test drove an 05 by 4wd electric. When lifting off the accelerator. The buggy comes to a screeching stop. Any ideas? Brakes are not dragging

@mattclark1712 Год назад

I have a problem. I have a 2013 ambush. The plug that goes to my servo motor has a broke wire, do you know where I can get a new one

@freshmaker5 Год назад

Can’t you just solder the wire? Or splice it?

@joem3353 2 года назад

Does this controller have any LED indication whether it is working or not? Plus how much are you selling your diagrams for?

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

Mine didn’t have any lights. I’ll send the basic one to you free. My diagrams are more specific and tell you what to test on controller. Send email address and I’ll send you the one. Might be all you need.

@kevinwilliams2112 3 года назад

Well, do I jump in or steer clear? I am looking at an 07 BBB 4wd with a winch. He got it at an auction and wants $1500. I am guessing that I am looking at a $1g just for the 8 batteries and all new cables. Maybe closer to $1200?? I have tinkered a good bit with elec golf carts and had success. This BBB has been sitting for awhile. He does have the cores for the batteries. What does a controller typically cost for one of these things? Going to look at this critter this morning. He also mentioned that something is broken on the steering, maybe the knuckle or something on the gear box. Should I stick to golf carts or take on this Bad Boy? Thank you all in advance. Looking forward to some input.

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

Controllers are about $750 a piece. If there is 2 controllers, it makes it twice as much and more difficult to locate the issue. Sometimes when the motors go bad, they ruin the controller and that is why the controller is bad. So things can add up and get complicated really fast. I learned a lot about these from this project. I keep finding that people buy them from someone broken, try and fix, but they can’t. Then you don’t get to hear how it broke from original owner and who knows what the guy did to it trying to fix it. The biggest issue with them is having a source of information and parts. You have to be pretty handy with electrical and volt meters.

@MrLukej4141 Год назад

I am interested in the drawings and meter readings you documented for this cart. I have the same one and am trying to get it back going. How would I go about purchasing them from you?

@freshmaker5 Год назад

Daddy2fast@yahoo.com email me

@smokintalon Год назад

@@freshmaker5 I also sent you an email. If you wouldn’t mind sharing that would be great

@freshmaker5 Год назад

@@smokintalon sent

@tbarnes00 2 года назад

I have a 2004 bbb classic same set up just about. Was riding the other day and loud pop then burning smell. Been trying to figure it out now. I turn the key on solenoids click, I can put it in fwd or rev and it will move with only slight pedal touch if I press the pedal with any more force it makes a Noise and stops then won’t move again. I have to turn key off then back on and same thing. Both controllers have flashing green light. Solenoids and front motor was replaced less than a year ago. Any thoughts?

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

Smell to find the problem. Probably one of the controllers blowing a capacitor or something. If you smelled it when it happened you should be able to still smell the item from up close.

@tbarnes00 2 года назад

@@freshmaker5 I wish it was that easy. It was near the passenger side capacitors. Is there anything between that rear controller and capacitor? Both controllers flash green simultaneously 7 times which I found to be either high or low voltage. I guess I’m asking where are the capacitors or even fuse box

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

@@tbarnes00 i’m not a cart mechanic I just figured out how to do all of this because I wanted it fixed. My cart had one controller. I have another video that shows how to test the solenoid. I recommend you join the bad boy buggy page on Facebook. There is a lot of knowledgeable people there.

@bigdaddyb8256 3 года назад

I have a BBB just got the controller replaced, brought it home charged it and now the ignition wont work proper sometimes may take 20-30 turns and finally I will here the click and the same time that happened the battery LED went out and after i drove for about 10 min or hit a bump the Bat LED will pop on... any ideas on what it could be..???

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

Use a voltmeter to test the ignition when it is not turning the machine on. Then you will know if that ignition is going bad or something else.

@rocky90ize 2 года назад

Where did you find a new controller?

@AndrewF-m9k 6 месяцев назад

If you take that navitas controller out and give it a shake and you here stuff rattling around its time to send to flight systems for a 1000 dollar tune up

@mm-ny9ey Год назад

Hello freshmaker5, are you still the owner of the Bad Boy Buggie? I am wondering if you can help with any advise. Let me know. Thank you.

@freshmaker5 Год назад

I sold it. This was the only one I ever had.

@hawkn7 2 года назад

By chance dod you find a good schematic for your cart? Trying to find one as my cart is like yours.

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

This video was when I first got the cart and knew nothing. I spent soooo many hours putting together all the diagrams and even made several of my own. Full diagrams of every wire in the cart. New pedal, old pedal, controller colors and what each pin should read to test it, etc, etc. . I sell the package now. If interested, let me know your email.

@joecool6798 2 года назад

@@freshmaker5 how much for a wiring diagram?

@freshmaker5 2 года назад

@@joecool6798 send me your email. Depends what ones. Stock one you guys can have free

@davidproctor3712 10 месяцев назад

@@freshmaker5I will pay for your schematics please?

@freshmaker5 10 месяцев назад

@@davidproctor3712I’ll send one that will probably fix you up for free. I think my email address is on one of these comments or just send me yours and I’ll forward it to you.

@rustyshay4044 2 года назад

Hop someone's is still reading. My 2006 ams4. Has been a rat condo. For awhile. Can someone help with dash wiring diagram or pics

@golfish8589 3 года назад

I just test drove an 05 by 4wd electric. When lifting off the accelerator. The buggy comes to a screeching stop. Any ideas? Brakes are not dragging

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

Yes. There is a switch to the left of the 4x4 button. It is an electric brake button. If you turn it off, it will go back to normal.

@golfish8589 3 года назад

@@freshmaker5 We tried that switch in both positions. No change. I was driving on payment. And it would start out fine.. but as soon as you let up on the accelerator. Those wheels would stop.. What is proper use of the e brake?? Thanks

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

The e brake is like a Jake brake on a semi to help slow you down on hilly areas without chewing up your brakes. Put the cart in neutral, turn the cart on. Put it in forward. You should hear a distinct click from under the seat. If you flip the e brake switch you should hear another click. If you don’t hear the second click it’s probably the single 4x4 solenoid that is bad. Sounds like it’s locked on. Either that or the switch is bad which you can test with a volt meter or just replace.

@golfish8589 3 года назад

@@freshmaker5 I dont think the chart had a neutral. Just a single fwd/rev switch. There was no clicking when I flipped the E brake switch. We did lift up the entire unit into the air. There is a 4wd/automatic button. In both position all 4 wheels went around. And all immediately stopped when foot taken of accelerator.. The unit wasn't slowing down fast. It was stopping on a dime. Thanks for all your help. I will let you know how it turns out. Are parts for a 2005 available and not to expensive? Is it a good deal at 4500 with new batteries? It does not look like it has been used much over the years

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

you probably have something wrong with the Solenoid or switches. I would have them fix it or get it for cheaper. Stuff adds up fast

@gregwingfield8247 3 года назад

I need to talk with you. I’ve been working on one of these.

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

How do I get a hold of you? I had a bad 4wd solenoid, cleaned it, benched tested and it worked. Put it back together, still not clicking when I turn the key.

@gregwingfield8247 3 года назад

Dm me on Facebook.

@jdnoggle1 3 года назад

went through this myself. we bought a handset to verify but ultimately ended up sending the Navitus controller to Flight Systems inc. to be rebuilt. one thing I did notice was your checks for the line contactor (under driver seat) seemed incorrect for a working unit. good luck and hope you figure it out. I am about to add power steering to this monster.

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

@@jdnoggle1 are you referring to the pig tail directly under drivers seat? Ya I’m getting a reading from the micro switch but not the potentiometer. Those are the 4 wires in that pigtail. Replaced potentiometer and same thing. I’m not getting the 1-5v from the pedal to the controller nor the 14v constant. I think it’s the controller. Do you still have the handset? I’d be interested in buying or renting it from you. How do I get a hold of you?

@golfish8589 3 года назад

@@freshmaker5 Did you get it working? What is a handset? Have you found a wiring diagram, link? Is Bad boys still in business? You have done a good job measuring volt. Do you know how to measure resistance/ohms. I was just checking out one of these units yesterday. When you turn the key one click clockwise. I heard one or two big contractors click behind me. Turn the key one more click clockwise. This should bring the headlights on. I dont know when the cigarette lighter gets energized. When diagnosing things. Try to isolated every thing. I noticed there may have been a led lightbar added. First unplug the lighter and leave it unplugged. Also disconnect all the headlights. Check the ohms off all lights separately. 000.0 ohms means no resistance and possible dead short. Only put in the relay for the headlights. Turn key to the second position. Check voltage to relay and check to see if the contacts close in that little relay. And see if it gets hot You can do the same for the second little relay. See if the relay contacts close and see if it gets hot with everything down stream disconnected. If you know what voltage activates the large contactors. You can hot wire it straight from the batteries or even another power source. I am not sure if the two rusted screws do anything. They might just hold the contactor together. Put one wire on one side of the coil onthe contactor. Then tap the other side of the coil to see if the contactor closes. For the big relays. Disconnect the big wires. Cover the ends so they don't touch anything. Figure out what voltage the small wires that activate the contactor should have. Can you ask the former owner what the 4wd/automatic button does. And when in 4wd. Does all 4 wheels have power or just one in front and one in back and power goes to the tire with the least grip. Like on a car. I am not checking email all the time . So if I dont answer soon. Send me the questions again. Let me know what happens

@golfish8589 3 года назад

Contactor testing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oYHzIDnU3Rw.html

@freshmaker5 3 года назад

It was a bad controller.