In this video we'll repair a 2006 Hyundai Sonata. The AC compressor was leaking, and we show you how to replace it. Click this link to find the products used in this video: www.apdty.com
Hey Ken, that is what I noticed also. The system just gulped a load of contaminants because he failed to purge the supply line. If he did but didn't show them, then why give an instruction video in the first place. It is a critical part of the replacement.
joseph Van Wie this video is not a how to charge video and we always purge the supply line as that is a basic requirement, we have a few other videos explaining how to charge and we show with the little cans or with an actual ac machine, either way we did not contaminate the system
I just browsing and end up subscribing to you. Thank you for the tutorial. U have a not working ac on 06 Hyundai accent and my question is what sonata and accent pretty much similar sir?
The Hyundai Accent is actually easier as it is a 4-cylinder and this video was a 6-cylinder, so you will have more room and the process is pretty much the same, The compressor is in a different position though.
very usefull video, i have a hyundai sonata as well but it's the 2.4L and i have issues with my Ac compressor and can't find any parts for repair it cause i'm in Colombia and want to buy a new one online at eBay so can i put a AC compressor of the V6 3.3L to my 2.4L?? thanks and i will appreciate your advice
Hey I have a question the ac compressor clutch broke on mines and im planning on swapping the whole compressor out. I will be hooking it up to an ac machine and vacuuming the freon out will I still have to flush the system as shown and will I still have to replace expansion valve and how important is it to replace expansion valve? Can I just vacuum the system Uninstall the old put the new and recharge ?
cloud9 ninjuh yes you will have to replace all those other parts as they work with the compressor and also the warranty On th compressor is void if the other components are not replaced.
Can I bypass the A/C compressor pully by using a smaller belt, i won't need A/C in the mean time until i can swap out the compressor. If so what size belt would I need? Same exact make/model/year as the one in this video.
We actually flushed all the lines and the condenser and internal AC evaporator. We replaced teh AC compressor as there is no way to clean that and it was failed.
need advice.. i own hyundai verna petrol. There is absolutely no cooling and authorized service center guy asked to get the compressor replaced where as local mechanic said he can repair it. new compressor is approx $600 whereas repairing is approx $140.. just wondering whether i should repair or replace the compressor.... :)
Prateek Vishwa we would have to know what he is actually repairing in or on the compressor, also the age and mileage of the compressor, if they are rebuilding the compressor then great, otherwise total compressor replacement can be the long term and cheaper fix,
where can I get the flush kit and what did you use to get the moisture out of the system? also why didint you start the car before charging it with refrigerant?
The A/C Flush and Kit amzn.to/29OPc4W A vacuum pump was used to remove moisture. Being the the system was put under a vacuum and with the pressure of the can, the compressor is not needed to drawl the Freon in at first.
Can the clutch field coil be replaced without disconnecting the refrigerant lines on this 3.3 V6? In other words, can I remove the compressor bolts and lower it enough to remove the clutch and pulley and then remove the coil, or is there not enough slack in the refrigerant lines to do that (or not enough space)?
For anyone who also wants to know, I'll answer my own question: YES, the field coil can be replaced without removing the refrigerant lines. Just follow the example in this video. Lower the face of the compressor out and you'll have access to it.
i have a question. How come in the other videos when you replace the A/C compressor you replaced the receiver drier or accumulator but in this this video you didn't? or it is not necessary to replace it?
Thank you for the info. I just started to take classes of air conditioning automobile. Is there any chance that you could do a video about the manifold gauges chart? Thank you
Mina Abdelmalek no, not enough room, if the compressor is original, you may want to consider just replacing it, it’s less labor and putting a new clutch in an old compressor usually buys you some time but you may be back there in 6 months to a year and so it all over again, since you have refrigerant and evacuations and recharges to deal with, it can actually cost more in the long run by not replacing the compressor in the first place
If I can replace the coil only then I will not have to deal with evacuation and refrigerant. Can I unbolt the compressor and move it a little without removing it so I can give myself more room to replace the coil?
I am confused about the last part here, every can of refrigerant I have ever used makes a point of having the can downward and slowly shifting it around as its charging. I have never seen instructions where you just set the can rightside up and let it just discharge.
Too much liquid refrigerant can damage the condenser. It is safer to just let the gases enter the system normally. Another common practice it to heat up the can in warm water or using something like a hairdryer.
Hey guys, great video but I am unsure about the flushing procedure: do i have to remove the orifice tube and the Receiver Drier / Accumulator before flushing? My to do list is like this now: - evcacuate stuff - remove compressor - remove orifice tube - flush system (low or high pressure side input?) - insert new orifice tube and replace drier - put new compressor in - evacuate - fill is that correct? :) thanks & keep up the good work!
That is mostly correct however it actually depends on the specific year make and model of the vehicle and a little bit of technician preference. My personal technique to flushing is separating each piece and running a flush chemical and then an air through each piece. For instance, you disconnect both AC condenser lines and flush the condenser by itself completely. Then I do the lines by disconnecting the other ends of each line. Same with the evaporator. When you flush it completely (which you should do), then you do want to make sure you put the proper amount of oil back in the system. This again depends on the year make and model of the vehicle and also take into consideration if the new compressor comes pre-filled with oil or not. If it is, and if a shop is recharging the refrigerant after vacuuming it down, then the shop will charge it with recovered refrigerant which is already mixed with oil. It is usually best to have a shop do the evacuation at the beginning, then you remove and install parts and flush well. then have the shop vacuum the system down for 40 minutes to an hour or more and then recharge it with their machine.
Michael B A technician would get paid on a total of 4-5 hours as the AC compressor is 1 hour, evac/recharge is 1.4 hours, Reciever Dryer 2 hours, expansion valve .3. The actual time will vary but without the evac and recharge, the part replacement time is 2-3 hours, compressor only is about 1 hour.
Yes the dryer and expansion valve must be replaced at the same time. We have another video with the dryer and better coverage of the expansion valve, we will post it as soon as done editing it.
"We didn't even have to evacuate the system" :( quote of the day... who the hell taught you that ?!?!!? the cycle being out of refrigerant has nothing to do with not vacuuming the system, you are actually vacuuming the system because of the leakage you have that allow normal air to sneak in and fill inside, and if this air gets inside the new compressor :( you can kiss it goodbuy.
Normally you have to evacuate the system prior to an AC repair so that refrigerant does not escape into the atmosphere, but in this case it had already escaped. This is all the tech meant by not having to evacuate it. Trying to evacuate a system with a hole somewhere would only pull more air into the AC system. If you skip to 15:30 you see that we did vacuum the system after the repair was finished to, as you say, remove any air from the system.
