Learn to do an easy backyard cleaning of your gunked out DR200 carburetor and save hundreds of shop rate labor dollars. Learn more about your machine to. This video tutorial designed with the beginning motorcycle enthusiast in mind.
Well it's twice now you've bailed me out of a tight spot with my little DR 200SE. This old novice motorcycle hobbyist achieved success twice with your excellent tutorial. First I did the complete overhaul of the carb for my 200 when I first purchased it (used). Then I filled it with gas and forgot about it for seven months during the heat of the Arizona summer and big surprise, most of the gas evaporated and left a gunk in the carb that required another breakdown and thorough cleaning. New plug (wrong plug originally installed) and fresh gas, and it runs like a dream. Great job and thank you again for this public service.
Great video and very helpful. One tip that even shop mechanics don't know about is that the screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). If you go to your local tool shop or even a Snap-On dealer, they will look at you like you have two heads. The shape of the point on the JIS is different, and if you really start horsing around on the soft screws on the carburetor, you can round them out. Snap-On has a Phillips tip that corresponds to the JIS and they can get them for you.
This is an excellent video, but for the love of God, please heed the warning at 11:31 about the plastic spacer on the needle. He puts it on at the wrong place in this video. He did put a yellow caption on there as a correction that says to place it on the top, but I did not understand what he was talking about the first time I watched this because it was my very first time cleaning the carb. Not knowing any better I copied his actions exactly and my bike ran terribly for about a month and as many times as I took the carb apart I could not figure out what the problem was. I finally stumbled upon another video of someone putting that spacer in the correct spot, and it saved me from selling the bike. So again, great step-by-step instructions, and I thank this guy for taking the time to do the tutorial. But don't copy his actions exactly at that particular spot in the video and save yourself a month of headaches.
First time removing and cleaning a carb here.. My bike runs great again! Some advice for other first timers, don't avoid taking the carb all the way out like I did, it winds up taking longer and is actually more difficult. I took it all the way off after having trouble and got it back on pretty easily. Thanks for the video.
Nice video well done. I spent 34 years doing cars professionally and lots of carburetors but almost zero motorcycle experience. Your video gave me what I need to know. My DR200SE has been sitting most of the last 3 or 4 years and carb is definetely not good now and needed to know how if there was a idle mixture adjustment and general set up of the carb. Thank You. Only one suggestion and Im sure you left out float adjustment... maybe too much for someone that has never done a carb but maybe a warning at least if they bend the tab or replace the needle and seat they may need to adjust the float level which is critical and maybe those floats dont have problems but on cars we would often see the float go bad. Just a thought and THANKS again SOOOOO Much!!!!
I love my 15 dr200s. your channel has helped me out tons! I just installed a dg r series muffler and need to jet it. your video helped me understand this. Thanks so much!!
Thanks for the good video. Had to rebuild the petcock and still had gas pouring out into the air box. Got the carb off and going to start cleaning tomorrow!
I had the same problem. Petcock leaked in PRI position when it was turned off. Gas filled the airbox then leaked on the floor. Since the leak was very slow I ignored it. I never could get it to idle properly. I'd watched videos of people rebuilding the petcock. I tried to rebuild it and still leaked. I ended up buying the petcock assembly for about $100. Drained a lot of gas from the airbox and now it runs great and no leaks on floor.
Juan, I know you for your aviation videos that I enjoy so much. Now I am in the process of buying a Suzuki DR200 and interested in the carburetor and who do I find has done an excellent video on that??
It's a little easier to remove and install the carb if you remove the 3 screws that secure the air box to the frame. This gives you a little movement in the air box and some more clearance to work with.
Great video. Thank you. I have a 2017 with another box on the left of the carb. What is that? I believe it to be something with smog control. Please advise. Danke.
And by the way, I do remember working on model airplane engines... Cox .049 to be exact. I made all the balsa wood framed and paper skinned flying models... and crashed every last one of them. Glad I got all my crashing out of my system before I flew in the USAF. Do not these memories date us somewhat. Good old days. I read Model Airplane News cover to cover every month. 7th grade.
I'm kind of afraid to unscrew the mix screw. What's the best way to know I have it set correctly? Great video. Thanks. I did my oil change last year watching your other vid.
Thank you so much! This totally helped me with mine! Question for you. What is the fuel line on the bottom of the carb that is capped off with the black cap? Mine isn't capped and leaks fuel.
Hey thanks for the great video info, i just got a 2009 Dr 200, never done this before, I followed everything you did and the bike fired right up !!!! Thank you, But now it dies out when I put it in gear? Help
Hi. I'm using your video to clean my carb. Are you saying that when you put the diaphragm back in the big plastic spacer should be sitting on top? Or is the way your show in the video correct. Thanks
Awesome video! Really, really well spoken and clear. I bought an '04 xt225 and the only thing is that the carb does leak from the bottom of the float bowl. I'm assuming that the floats are getting stuck, how can I test that? And if so what should I replace? It only have 1500 miles so I might just buy a carb rebuild kit and do that. Anyway, thanks again for making this video.
Get a jet cleaner tool. Also, ditch the vac operated petcock. Also, if the carb is not a mess you can do a minor clean with it on the bike. Loosen the clamps and turn the bowl to the ex side and you can get the bowl screws off for clean out. On most all carbs it’s the pilot jet that gives you trouble.
Excellent video blancolirio! Very well done, easy to follow. I do have a question however. I have a 97 200SE and when I took the carburetor apart, I found that the idle needle was only 3/4 of a turn turned out. You said yours was about 2-1/2 and the norm is about 1-1/2 turns. Should I put the needle back at 3/4 turn? Seems this can be adjusted while on the bike... The carburetor was much easier to clean that I expected. Mine was kinda gunky on the outside, inside not too bad but I used one of those 1 gallon cans of carburetor cleaner that you get at Autozone...have cleaned many carburetors with it and it cleans better than anything else I've tried...soaked for a few hours...
Forgot to mention...in the strainer bucket, I found a very small washer and tiny o-ring that I didn't see before putting it in the carb cleaner. I did figure out that it belongs to the idle screw...just waiting for my rebuilt parts now...
Thanks so much for this video, I learned a lot. I was thinking of getting the kientech jet kit but had no idea how to install it. This video will definitely help.
Johnathan Le Here's how to operate the stock petcock (vacuum operated) 1. Start cold bike in PRI (prime position) 2. Move lever to ON position after bike starts 3. Flip to RES (reserve) when you run out of gas in ON position. You may need to restart bike in PRI position, then flip back to RES. Go get some more gas. System: PRI allows gravity feed of fuel to carb for starting, therefor DO NOT store the bike with the fuel petcock in the PRI position, or your carb may leak fuel all over the garage. ON and RES require vacuum from the running engine to flow. so when engine dies or is shut off fuel is automatically shut off. Therefor store the bike with the fuel petcock in the ON position (or RES). Kinda counter intuitive....
Thanks for this great video. I am trying to get a 97 dr200 back running. I have disassembled carb. I did like you did in this video, put fuel line on carb and blew air in....I don't get any air getting through float needle, with float up or down...any suggestions?
+blancolirio I have ran maybe 3 or so tanks through it and it seems to have a problem idling when it is cool outside, it misses a lot, it sounds like a 2 stroke (the way it hits and misses) but it is not the consistent thump of a 4 stroke. I let the engine warm up to 120F before I take off, but it will cut out taking off slowly from a stop... I'm also going to adjust the valves today
+keagan Knapp It's brand new, the valves are fine...yes, you need to open up the carb and clean it out, pay particular attention to the idle jet (maybe consider replacing), the hole is tiny and susceptible to causing exactly the symptoms you have. As the new engine breaks in, it will run smoother too.
Hey i understand it was 9 years ago but wyat eould happen if the diaphragm was put in backwards, we tried to clean the carburettor on my 2000 dr200 becasuse it would bog and wouldn't rev when cold, now top speed is about 50kph in 5th pinned so im planing to copy thus video exactly to see if i can fix it, thank you in advance
should be exactly the same! the DR200 series is made with a "if its not broke, don't fix it." approach to design so its mechanically exactly the same since the 90s including the exact same carb.
Seems you've forgotten the seat of the needle, which has some very tiny holes as well. To remove it, remove the needle with the membrane (as seen), screw the main jet only two turns out and hit it with the screwdriver and a small hammer. The seat will come out on the side of the membrane, it is just slightly pressed it.
So where you were putting the diapragm needle in with the spacer towards the bottom ( slid up the needle ) that was incorrect ( per you description ) ( at 11:40 ) and you actually drop the needle down and put the spacer on top?
I believe he is referencing the spring seat which the service manual shows going on top of the retaining clip. On my carb it came on the bottom of the clip as your shows in your tremendous video. Factory mistake? Thanks for the great video!
blancolirio, another question please? I got the carb all back together and noticed that the diaphragm needle fell back into the diaphragm when I had the carb upside down! Yes, the spring was attached which I believe holds the needle so it can't do this. Took the top cover off again but I'm wondering what the heck I did wrong? Doesn't the needle just slip into the metal slider and is held in by spring??
Hey there. I am wondering, Blancolirio, I have the same bike, but mine is the 2004. At the moment the bike won't turn over. The battery is fine, the gas, the kickstand, the neutral position is correct, the starter is fine. I'm not sure about the spark plugs though. Just from looking underneath, where the spark plug cover sits, I noticed the white part of the plug is sticking out about half way. Is that normal on these bikes, because I have seen tutorials of spark plug replacements and it seems like to get to the spark plugs for those bikes, it's usually down inside and harder to get at?
"A simple bike....a wife's bike or a girlfriends bike" Yup, its a girlfriends bike, right along side her 29 other bikes, ranging from 60's era 125cc Guzzis to a 1200cc BMW, and almost everything in between. :-)
do you have another line capped off on the bottom of the carb next to the float drain nipple. in front towards the engine half inch foward and up from the float drain? what is this line? I have 4 lines coming off my carb? thank you SO much if you get this I'm stuck for once. lol
Hi there, I just finished doing my carburettor on my 2000 dr200 and the top speed is still probably around 50 kph in 5th gear, I'm not sure what I've done and there's a shitload of petrol leaking from the bottom of the Carby, please help me
Yesterday I did a l valve adjustment on one just like yours same everything but mine take a second for it to start but I will leave the idle speed higher and then lower it after a few mins of warm up and then when I want to drive way it wants to shut off and also it hesitates sometimes on take off would this bike need a carb cleaning it has 5895 miles on it I just bought it a week ago with 5886 on the odo I hope you can reply soon and I have never done a carb cleaning on a motorcycle it's my first carbureted motorcycle so I don't know much of these types of machines but I'd love to learn how to fix my stuff because I don't trust mechanics and also would you recommended a cleaning or a full rebuild on it would u want me to upload a video so you can see what I am talking about thanks
Jordan Enriquez probably needs a good carb cleaning like this. Clean airfilter, change sparkplug, change oil and filter. Check for induction leaks too.
blancolirio ok cool thanks and yeah I only did valve and spark plug the owner or the bike told me he took the bike to a shop where they did everything but they didn't do anything to the bike and I believe the owner some because he gave me the service receipts and thanks again
At 11:26 that spacer is to the left of the ring. In yellow font you say it needs to go on top. Does that mean it should be on the right side of that ring at 11:26? I think I put it together backwards and now can’t get the bike to start. Please help!
Hey I watched you video and I am going to rebuild my carb on my 2005 DR200. Question, I am experiencing a fast idle when the bike is warm? I will go down after I play with the throttle. I have another box on the choke side of the carb I think it emission stuff. Do you think the rebuild would solve the high idle?
I noticed they sell brand new complete carburetor on Chinese web sites , that aren’t that much more than rebuild kits here. Anyone ever used one? . Regardless I’m going to rebuild mine for the experience for cleaning . Also I replaced my pet clock with an on / off pet cock and plugged the vacuum line. Great video!!
I have problems with the carburation of my dr 200 it throws black smoke at me and when I accelerate it now, what can I do to fix it also leaves the candle black
nice video. followed it step by step. but I still have fuel going into the air box. vacuum line is on. brand new stock petcock. still can't stop the fuel from going into the air box. I need some help
I'm having same issue, how would replacing the petcock with a conventional one help? Wouldn't that just allow gas all the time just like keeping it on reserve?
i need some expertise. i got 1997 dr650se. just changed the battery and put in 4 gallon tank. i start the bike no problem, but when i put in 1st or 2nd gear and ride for half a block it chokes and it dies. this happen for 6-7 times. can anyone tell me whats wrong, is it the carburetor, or something else? thanks!!!!
+2phalanges Make sure the Choke is OFF. Insure fuel is flowing well out of the petcock before tearing into the carb. Insure new tank is clean of debris. Give us an update when you figure it out.
thanks! i found out that the new tanks' petcock has problems with the on switch. so now every time i ride i just have it on reserve. i feel like im only getting 35mpg. but is ok. i finally get to ride it. just put my first 300 miles on it. love every minute of this bike!!
At 11:24 minutes into the video blancolirio shows the needle valve put together. I believe this is the wrong way to do it. Shouldn't the stepped washer ( Suzuki # 13382-42A00) be under the spring and at the top of the needle? Can anyone confirm that?