9:14 to address your comment on this thing “not being serviceable”; you are correct! There is no easy way to drain the fluid in these things. I just discovered myself after watching about a dozen videos of people drilling and installing a drain plug in the bottom of these PTU. Just did the work yesterday, pretty scary, but now I can easily change out the oil.
Thanks for posting this video. I just pulled the PTU out of a 2015 XSport with a 3.5 Ecoboost. I think the guys that are saying you dont need to mess with the subframe dont have a turbo in the way. I wound up disconnecting the front end of the drive shaft and carrier bearing support and wiring it out of the way. same with the dual exhaust from the second cat to the mufflers. Pulled the two giant power steering bolts and shifted the whole power steering assembly to the right about 1 1/2". You dont need to disconnect it from the tie rods or the steering column shaft. there is enough play to shift it over. The rear subframe bolts were big and scary but once they broke loose they came right out. Removing those bolts and brackets was probably the easiest thing I did on the whole job. The subframe then can be lowered about 3-4" and the PTU slips up and over the crossmember.
My daughter has a 2009 that had the same problem. Your video/verbals saved me. The scariest part for me was getting the converter bolts loose without rounding nuts/breaking studs. WD 40 the day before and 2 heat/cool cycles with Mapp gas and WD 40 worked for me. Still took a breaker bar to get them loose. And yes, the oxy sensor connector was a bitch. I broke the cat bolts loose, left the connector “connected” and the cat loosely in place, then dropped the cradle as you suggested. That let me get my hands in to discon. the elec. connector. The sharing of your time and skill is very generous. Thanks. Saved me $1300 labor. Semper Fidelis Dave Heitman
Wow... I’m glad I read the service manual before watching you do it the hard way. Move y- pipe aside, remove torque strut and cat. Rock the engine forward with a ratchet strap. No muss, no fuss no muffler sealer or pissing and moaning.
🍪 you get the emoji cookie for the Ford product. Spread the word, so I don't have to complain, and carry on about this sub standard product. You should have made a better video, so nobody has to look at this trash. I wouldn't be missing anything. The world would be a better place. Thanks for watching!
Hey Larry, if you see this, could you confirm if the same can be done on a lincoln mks 2011? I haven't found anything online stating the motor can be shifted easily to replace in a similar manner
@@alexswift the procedure is the same. If it’s a eco boost both front and rear torque struts should be loosened and one bolt removed. You may have to remove the rear subframe bolts and let it hang, it only drops a couple inches but it’s enough to get the ptu out.
great video man!!!!!! FYI for much quicker removal, you dont have to drop the subframe or disconnect the steering column, with removing the lower mount, it gives you enough room to push the motor and trans forward and drop the unit down along where the cat was, much faster and easier
I just did this repair and I can confirm this. Thanks for the tip. I did it on jack stands and it wasn’t that bad. You can rotate the PTU drive shaft connection to the right and then drop the whole thing down.
hey Nick, if you see this, could you confirm if the same can be done on a lincoln mks 2011? I haven't found anything online stating the motor can be shifted easily to replace in a similar manner
Thankyou for taking the time to vid and post this. I own a 2013 ford edge awd and I fely like this was a job to big for me, now I know its possible, though not easy. Excellent video. Thanks again.
Great video,!! It may have been worth doing a PTU drill and tap, for servicing it. If it is your personal vehicle that is. It can be don while in the vehicle fairly easy for those up to the task. I think the video and info for this is by - Buck Newby.
I own an explorer 2012, mine started leaking first time at 45k Km the output shaft seal and now at 98K km aswell the output shaft seal.. The whole reliability of this car is just retarded.
Great video but you do not need to drop the front suspension or unbolt the struts , you also do not need to lower the front cradle in order to have room to get the transfer case out . If you simply turn it on it’s side “shaft exposed side up” you can carefully slide the transfer case out without damaging the PS line. This saved me a ton of time not to mention not having to deal with old stubborn hardware.
Fabulous video. Great content. Superb editing. This video is exceedingly helpful for PTU replacement on my son's 2011 Ford Taurus Limited AWD, which is similar enough to be very pertinent. Thank you so very much for sharing your expertise.
David Klimmek - Ford doesn’t urgently address their design errors. This horrible design ran for at least 7 years, rust issues with the escapes ran at least 5 years. Because of this I’m leaving Ford. I truly hope you have good luck with yours.
Great video.. including the bitching. "Gimme my shit!" hahaha! Sorry man, I had to laugh because I know you cut out the worst of it. I usually throw at least one thing and break it before the job is over.
There are now up-graded units with drain plugs. Recommend to drain fluid every 31,000 miles. Hard to fill from the drain plug. Most people will extend the vent hose so after the unit is drained, you can fill from the vent hose by putting an extension on the hose and then put the vent cover on that hose extension. I will flush the PTU before I add new oil. I flush with Engine Flush. Make sure it is all drained out. When I put the unit on the hoist, I will start the engine and put it in drive, run the PTU for about 1 minute with the flush in it, the flush will drain out quickly as it is basically kerosene. After it is well drained I add my Ford brand recommended fluid. The PTU will be as good as new with all the dirt out. The new Ford PTU has the drain plug and an added heat sink to keep it cool. The issue is that the finned heat sink seems to pick up more heat from the catalytic converter than the heat sink is supposed to dissipate. The PTU will always go bad if you do not drain every 30,000 miles. The PTU need more oil capacity and a heatsink that works. They need to make it so you can fill from the top with a longer vent-hose so you will not have to modify the revised Ford PTO, which they revised with a drain plug and heat-sink in 2016. Undrained PTO's will fail around 60,000 Miles and the oil will look like mud.
The dipstick at the end is for the transaxle, not the PTU. The PTU is a sealed box, like you noted, 'unserviceable'. Though it should be serviced regularly otherwise it will fail, like the one replaced.
Actually, from your last deleted comment about "you must have had a bad day", I had what felt like about 4 broken ribs when I did this job (never saw a doctor). Humor in this miserable reality is about the only thing that keeps me alive. On another note, dealers like the word "lifetime, no service needed", because it sells more cars.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks man, I didn't want you to have any hard feelings about my comment, so I deleted it. That's the problem with comments, is you can't tell without inflection, so I end up deleting most comments.
Thanks I've gotta put one of these in tomorrow for the same issue....weird bearing like noise in the front, checked it on the lift, wasn't puking as bad as this one but it's coated in like liquid graphite And I'm with ya on the cheap shyt lol
That 1st Camera Angle on the lift...I'm like "Plywood Shop floors? Is this guy in a shed? Holding up the Edge with his left hand & holding a camcorder in his right?!"
There is an easier way! Put a scissor jack on the back of the motor between the frame and the motor. Push the motor forward a couple inches and you can remove the transfer case from bellow! No need to mess with the subframe! Good video tho!
Thx for the tips! just put a used one in for a customer(they supplied) lol guess ill see it again soon for another one lol junk units. without pulling the subframe or rack i had it out in about an hour. thanks again.
What did that Job end up costing to replace the PTO transfer case. ?? I have a 2007 MKZ lincoln that is leaking a black pasty oil . and took it in and they suspect the Seals in this Transfer case . The are charging me $600 for Removal and replacing . , Hoping its just seals.
It's not just seals. Seals don't make black paste. There is junk it that unit that is wore out This is a non serviceable item. replace the whole thing, or you will be wasting money. My bro bought one online, and I put it in for him.
Great video ! My 2010 is making grinding clacking noises and a slight roar, but it all comes and goes. Above 20 mph and it mostly goes away. No oil anywhere around the ptu and wheel bearings are fine. Im stumped, how would I know for sure that it’s my ptu?
Oh boy, i have a 2011 Ford Taurus awd SEL and my PTU has been sounding like metal in a blender when i start the car, and the car won't go anywhere when put into gear. Im deciding whether or not to purchase a used PTU and fix it or just scrap the car for at least couple hundred to get me a little beater so i can get to work. Paid $3,800 for it 5 months ago. It still needs struts, ball joints, and a control arm. It broke down on me right after i found a part time job(best i could get, nobody wants to hire me). Lol im never lucky.
When I did mine...you don’t have to remove the whole drive shaft...don’t have to drop K-frame (ratchet wrench gets the two bolts on drivers side)... don’t need to remove steering shaft... total time with new brakes and rotors and clean up Took 7 hours total
one last question- The Edge I am working on is a 2014 AWD- the RH intermediate shaft goes through the PTU inward to the vehicle- is there a circlip needed on the end spline that goes through the PTU? The repair manual is not specific, and in your video, you make no mention of a circ clip. My axle assembly was not taken apart, I removed it in one piece as you did in the video, from what I have read, the intermediate shaft is retained in the transaxle differential side gear by the bolts that go through the support shaft bearing. Is there a circ clip needed on the RH, inward, intermediate shaft that passes through the PTU to the transaxle?
Were you getting any vibration? Mine is vibrating. Had it to a garage and they said it had a bad drive shaft, so I had them put one in, but it still vibrates.
I bought a replacement PTU it says that I have to Replace Or Verify The Transmission Output Shaft Seal Is in good condition Did your replacement unit come with the Output shaft seal already installed?
@@RustBeltAuto thank you - I have followed your video step by step with one exception I did not disconnect the steering column or completely disconnect the exhaust, so far it has been smooth and actually, not very hard at all the hardest part of the whole process has been that s3ckn sensor up above the cat- it sucked re connecting it - even with the heat shield etc out of the way
I guess it would depend. Like if you are going to fix the problem, and not the cause. Why is it leaking? Bad seal, or junk t-case? That's the real question that I do not have an answer for.
My oem ptu burnt up. I replaced it at the repair shop, and the seal/gasket started leaking. Now I'm replacing after 5 months and getting charged 600 in labor for the second time.
Yeah, I was surprised a large company like Ford wouldn't put a drain plug on them. I changed one, also was sure it was spotless clean inside,then drilled and tapped a plug in. The old one popped a hole in side and the oil was like tar at that point. Had just over 300,000 kms ir 180,000 miles on it.
Instead of lowering the cradle I ratchet strapped the bottom of the motor forward, lowered the tcase a couple inches and turned sideways it dropped right out
@@RustBeltAuto OK because I bought a transfer case with 53,000 miles is there anyway to find out if they put the transfer case I bought in my car with the 53,000 miles
@@RustBeltAuto so how would I know if they’re putting the transfer case I bought in my car because different transfer cases come with different mileage
700-900 dollar part and you basically gotta drop the front end and still have special extensions... Crazy thing is they aren't serviceable by owners.. Pumping them out doesn't remove sludge and you can't use solvents to get it out.. They eventually just overheat and break or strip gears..
@@RustBeltAuto in the video you drop cross member and disconnect steering shaft and break exhaust loose.. Even with a lift you were barely getting in there.. Someone with a job and jack stands or ramps is going to have fun with that extension and the down time no matter how much you care to contradict the video in an effort to be maverick..
@@erikbreaman9124 I did the job the way I did it. Anyone else can be creative. I would have done it on the floor if I needed to. Been there, done that. Yes, yes, I am a maverick. Thanks for watching!
I'm dealing with mine now. That's B's how much it cost for the part alone thank God I m a mechanic so I don't have to pay labor on top of a 2k dollar part
A seal is a seal, and not a mechanical element needing lubrication. If you see lubricant around a seal, it has either failed or someone didn't clean up after a recent installation.
Two extra wheels??? I just worked on a car and said to the person "you know, the only reason why I'm working on your car, is because you are a dumbass." He did not disagree. I will rephrase your answer by saying "at least it is not something that makes sense", because your answer is not really an answer. I don't think it is even a pun. In fact, I don't know what it is. Probably something that is supposed to be better than worse, so it is supposed to be okay or something. My parents used to say stuff like that to me. Like if it is worse than total crap, it's not that bad, because anything better that total crap is good. I don't talk to them any more. My mind doesn't compute. Excuse me while I drink more Sake.
Here I thought is was something that starts with the word poop. Especially given the fact that there is no drain plug, and it cannot be serviced, Thanks for watching!
Built Ford tough. Grrrr. Perhaps someone can make a video on that. Stabbing a drill bit into a case full of junk parts, so you can watch some black sludge ooze out of it. Fun! I'm sorry, but it is hard for me to leave a comment without being sarcastic. I have never seen.......... Just exactly when should you change the fluid on a non serviceable part with no maintenance schedule anyways?
@@RustBeltAuto According to my service manual you need a suction gun to deservice and service this. There are a few different variations to the PTU and the newer don't leak as easily, have drain plugs and oil coolers attached. But overall thanks for the video it was extremely helpful as I have to do this to my explorer and it is very similar.
@@tourerv1jz interesting. I have never thought sucking fluid out of a case was a good idea. All the crud is on the bottom, and sucking out fluid leaves it in there. Is there a recommended mileage for servicing it?
@@RustBeltAuto According to the Ford factory service manual I have it says that it is serviced for life if it has their specific fluid in it. However after lots of research I have found that the oil has been sludging up and failing causing the PTU to be replaced. Lots of people have been drilling the case and installing a drain plug. I am planning on doing that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KQWh5cp2ZEc.html
I've gotten the PTU fluid changed at 75,000 then at 80,000. Had I not, it would be shot before 90k. What a fucking flaw in the PTU design in this day and age. We want out drain plug.
Since when did sealed washing machine transmissions find their way into automobiles? Cute little thing belongs in a Power Wheels Jeep. Too bad it was engineered by one of those cost saving millennial a$$hats. Fraction of a quart of oil...no filtering, cooling...no way to drain or flush. Brilliant!
What a piece of crap Ford knew this transfer case was crap Ford didn't care. What a great video showing Fords design flaws. These cars should drop 3K in value for garbage transfer case. Joke..lol on the consumer..Ford...bye bye bye
sadly all of them are this way , GM other companies have there share of issues... and yes it pisses us all off..but as a mechanic for 20 years, after 2000, I tell people all cars are junk because they are built like shit on purpose and charge us x10 more for them..
Recon - Design errors are made, S - - t happens my issue with Ford is they continued to use the design for at least 7 years! I won’t be back with Ford. I’ll give Toyota a shot and see how that plays out.
@@chucknoob7041 My wife has a toilet matrix and the cam phaser crap out at 63000km just off warranty. toilet said too bad, $1000 to replace. I did it myself. $300 in parts. Last toliet we will ever buy. I have been in the trade for 45 yrs I owned my own shop for 35 yrs , and 1 thing it taught me is to buy Fords, The nightmare drivability problem of the others make Ford look like geniuses.
@@rickh633 - Well I still have the 2013 Explorer 135,000 miles with the PTU in question here. Have really had no problems with it. I did drill and tap a drain for the PTU and change the oil in it now after I caught it puking black sludge out of the vent. My problem with Ford is they knew about this PTU issue overheating. I know this because they routed ducting to it from underneath to try to direct air to cool the PTU. They did this instead of installing the PTU with a cooler and drain plug which they use for the police version. Pretty easy fix. Another example of not fixing known issues is the Ford Escape. Now, the drive train on these (2004 - 2012) are solid but they suffer from severe rust issues. The rear passenger shock mount and wheel well rusts so bad that people make kits to fix it when the shock rust off. I made my own on our 2005 years ago but most people just junk the cars when it breaks. You can’t find an older Escape (anroind here in the rust belt) that the rear wheel wells aren’t completely destroyed by rust. Ford allowed the design to propagate for nearly a decade. That’s criminal especially considering it’s lower income people who typically own these. I think it’s pretty easy to fix, just mount a plastic wheel well cover to prevent road spray from hitting the metal. If Ford would have addressed this they might have built an iconic car like the Camry, early RAV4 or CRV, oh well. Current stable: 2005 Escape 206,000 miles (kids car now) 2006 Escape 195,000 miles ( winter beater) 2012 RAV4 75,000 miles 2013 Explorer 135,000 miles (doesn’t see winters anymore)
