Meticulous, thorough, and unbelievably professional. As an ex master technician, I love to watch you work and would let you work on my vehicles any day. You are one of the last of a dying breed unfortunately.
Ya, I'm not gonna lie but professional doesn't day enough about how good this guy is, especially when he let's gravity lower the front diff for him 😂😂😂
Last year, your transfer case replacement, Ford Edge, saved my bacon. I did it for a daughter. Many thanks. I’ve got a pan removal....oil pickup tube o-ring project ...to do soon. 4x4 2003 Tahoe. Pros like you, sharing time and knowledge with us knuckledraggers is greatly appreciated. After years and years of monkeying with my own repairs....I’m 71.....I finally wised up and now wear disposable gloves. Looking forward to more from you. Best wishes. Dave Heitman
@LordNotlek you can loosen it and let it rest on its own accord. It doesn't have to come out neither does the front axel. Simply loosen the four bolts to hold it up and one bolt on each side in the lower strut as the bolts will allow the front diff to come down to clear the whole proccess.
Good vid, it helped me do this job myself. Although it was all for nothing it appears as tho my leak is actually the rear main seal 😢 but I'm glad I got in there to degrease and inspect everything. The whole pan where it meets the bottom of the engine was soaked with oil all the way around so I thought for sure it was the pan gasket but of course not... Anyway a few tips for anyone attempting this job. I used a Fel Pro gasket with no sealer no issues it does not appear to leak. Glad I did not go the RTV sealer route. My oil tube pickup O-ring was decently flattened so just plan on replacing that too no sense not doing this. I went with 20ftlbs on the pan bolts. For the two long ones I went with about 15ftlbs which is too much really for the two long bolts. I recommend adhering exactly to the torque spec of the pan bolts. The long ones especially shouldn't be overtorqued I did a little because at that time I thought the original pan gasket leaked so I wanted a little extra... There was no need to remove the sway bar on my vehicle. (08' Silverado) The bolts holding the front diff and steering rack came out without any real drama. Plan on using hand tools to break loose the two long bolts in the steering rack. You might be able to get these with an impact but impacts don't tend to work very well on the head side of long bolts since the bolts have so much length the length of the bolt just absorbs the blows of the impact hammer. But it wasn't too tight, I got em with my long half inch ratchet. Removing the diff is actually pretty easy. It is awkwardly weighted tho, I used a harbor freight scissor transmission jack which worked great. Wouldn't want to try it with a regular floor jack... I'd estimate the diff weighs about 80lbs total. It pays to spend the time leveling the diff on the jack. I used 2x4 pieces and a Bungie cord. When reinstalling the oil pan start the two long bolts in the beginning then all the smaller pan bolts and finally the two transmission bell housing bolts. Don't start with the small pan bolts and then try to thread in the long bolts, you can't see where the long bolts thread in and the pan has to be just right. Better to put the long bolts in first loosely then the small pan bolts loosely then torque the small bolts then the long ones then the transmission bell housing bolts.. Be sure to torque the transmission bell housing bolts lasts. Overall a tedious job but pretty straightforward. I was impressed with GM's design pretty to easy to work on. Be sure to verify it is actually the oil pan gasket that is leaking and not the rear main or oil cooler lines... It seems like a skilled mechanic in a shop on a lift could do this job in about four hours maybe less if you're really going or you've done it before. In the driveway it's probably about 8hrs total of wrenching. I spread it out over three days, probably took me over 12 hours but a lot of that time was spent degreasing, etc. Oh almost forgot SCOTCH BRITE pads are the best thing ever for removing the old gasket. They don't mar the aluminum sealing surface, they're great I wouldn't start without them. Cheers fam 👍
Great video, I did this repair and also the engine cooler line, helped me watching you as well as the Chiltons. Going to do my transmission cooler lines then put the diff and everything back on. I did not take off my sway bar.
Enjoyed this video. I’ve got an oil leak on my 2010 Yukon XL. I’m not going to attempt it myself, but I like to have an understanding of what the mechanic will have to do to fix it. Thank you for sharing your expertise with the world.
Interesting repair, I own an LM7 variant of the LS series, older than this one. I always assumed oil in that area was from the filter, it's good to know what's likely. Nothing wrong with swapping out that oil pickup O-ring and cleaning the pan at the same time. It doesn't look as bad as i thought it was. Thanks for posting!
Fantastic video! I was able to follow this on my 2008 Chevy Tahoe. I really appreciate you giving the torque specs. I haven’t found anyone else’s videos giving that information. Thank you!
Great video, well lighted and narrated! I saw it had an AFM oil deflector installed (TSB 10-60-10-008M). Makes me think the oil pan gasket has been replaced before. I'm going to have to do this job to my 2008 Silverado w/126K. Not a bad leak yet, but I like to be proactive. I'm also replacing the lower transmission cooler line as it oozes from the metal to rubber fitting a bit. It should be easier to replace the line with some stuff out of the way. I have some oil consumption, so I'm doing the TSB mentioned above and putting on that AFM oil deflector while the pan is out. Thanks again for posting the video.
This is a really informative video, we don't have rust like that down here in Texas, omg that is some serious rust, but most is cast iron so no biggie.
Great video you helped me right through taking everything apart so I could put my new oil pan in it. I had a crack in the old one and my oil pressure was low so I needed to replace the oring. I had good oil pressure before I did my cam swap and I replaced the springs, lifters, rods, and I didn’t get the green o ring for the pickup tube. I still have low oil pressure and don’t know what to do from here. I did everything else correctly except this oil pressure issue. I’m trying to beat taking it to a shop since I’ve gotten this far. If you could spare some time and advice for a comment I’d appreciate it. Thank you
I thought MINE was rusty! Jeezus these things are buckets, my suggestion to the videos to make them even more relatable, cuss more. I haven’t touched a single bolt on mine that I didn’t throw at least a “effin piece ‘o s#it” as motivation to the bolt. 😂
About to do this to my yukon. Will be using this a reference. Sucks we hvmave to remove so many supports and brackets. Doing a full rebuild on a 08 denali. To poor to afford a new one. Old is gold anyway anymore. Ill be replacing u joints axle flush and probably sway bar bushings. Out here in dove valley colorado.
I had a 08 with the low pressure warning coming in and it blew up the day before I was gonna change the pick up tube o ring. That was about a month ago. Now a 11 avalanche came in for other work and has the same problem. Gotta change it out tomorrow. Watched this as a refresher on what needs to come down out of the way. The 08 I changed the pan gasket and o ring before the new/used motor went in.
I just had to do this on my 08 suburban . Had a collapsed AFM lifter and low oil pressure. Fixed the lifter then dropped the pan and found the cracked o ring.
Question: I'm having a hard time getting the differential installed. It keeps hitting on either the oil pan, the crossmember mounting plate or the steering rack. I'm curious, about the distance from the front cross member to the steering rack? I have about 1" or so between the 2. I'm wondering if this isn't close enough to the front cross member to allow for the differential to slide up and into the mounting position? Does anyone know what that distance is? I'm wondering if I tightened the bolts on the steering rack too much and it pulled the rubber pieces towards the front cross member and now isn't allowing enough space for the diff? I hope this makes sense. Thanks in advance to any and all replies.
My oil pan seems to be stuck. I took all the bolts out and confirmed i have all brackets and 15 bolts for the pan, but still stuck. Gonna have to get a rubber mallet tomorrow and try that
Great video, and wow alot of work to just get to the oil pan and be able to remove it. Have a buddy with a Yukon 6.0 liter V8 that just keeps running. over 250K and going strong. I'll have to say GM did it right with that engine. Kinda surprised at the amount of rust, guess it is just "surface rust"? It seems there are a number of bushings you could replace along the way with this fix.
This was the way a video should be made. Followed each and every step you made was fantastic. I have a question about inside the oil pan, that bypass valve inside the pan. That wasn’t addressed in the video. I have that notorious leak in pan corner but have replaced oil pump,pick up tube O-ring. Oil pressure sensor and lil filter screen. I’m dropping oil pressure in from cold start up to warm to few pounds. I think that bypass valve is my last answer to what it could be. What do you think of that thing and if it’s clogged or not working is there anything I can do without taking pan down. Did engine flush. Should I do it again. Thanks mate ☘️ from NJ
on my 05 Denali XL I was able to do it through the timing cover without dropping the oil pan....is it not possible on these newer engines ? I think my 08 suburban has the same problem.
Yes disconnecting the battery requires another extensive video with special tools and education with technical teams ! Stay tuned ! Don't move ! No go pee pe ! 🤪😜
I'm curious how many labor hours or billable hours that took. I am going to be doing my yukon this winter, only thing is i have to reseal that axle too, the main case seal is bad as well.
You, my good man, are a true professional!! Very impressive to watch you work. Wish you were closer!! Does the rust prematurely kill/junk these trucks out there in the rust belt or do they last long even being rusted to heck on the underside??
@@RustBeltAuto That's a shame. My 05 Suburban is just starting to see a little rust on the bumpers through the paint. Underside looks like mostly surface rust. Any favorite problems to slow the salty cancer?
@@wretchedrider2157 Here in Central New York there are several chemicals used for under sprays to inhibit rust. I can't speak to the quality of the other products out on the market, but 4X Heaven (a former employer of mine) uses Krown from Canada and it works extremely well at slowing rust and provided the rust isn't extremely horrible it will even stop the deterioration from rust! Disclaimer: I am not now, nor have I ever been directly affiliated with the aforementioned company nor am I trying to advertise their products. It is only through my applications of the product during my employment at 4X Heaven, which ended due to health issues in 2017, that I have seen firsthand the effectiveness of it.
My understanding is you don’t have to remove the passenger side CV axle. You can leave it attached with enough. Play to let the front of hang while you finagle the oil pan loose.
I did this with my Tahoe. I'm sure I connected all wiring to the differential. The transmission wont shift into drive at all. But I have reverse. Anyone have any ideas??
My 2011 GMC Sierra 2WD needs new liners for engine oil and trans fluid. That's already a big job to me. The oil pan job seems to be a nightmare. Hope it doesn't happen.
Thank goodness for not having 4 wheel drive on my burban.. but given the fact i kno what ill go thru with the Silverado now 😢.. burban and z71 get ready smh
When dat axle fell out forgot to say sum bit !! and you didn't show da dead cat it fell on ! Pour cat ! Ahhh! Just trow it over to da naybors yard ! 😆🙀! OW! Meow
@@RustBeltAuto Just did a 2007 Denali 6.2 and only the back 2 long bolts are 6x1mm. The rest are 8mm bolts so I think thats where the confusion is. They need to be 18 ft-lbs. Assuming yours were all 6mm?
Holy shit dude that diff fucking bounced off of u and straight slammed the concrete! If it didn't crack the case literally anywhere what so ever id be totally astounded lol
Notice it's 18 to 20 pounds on the oil pan I was trying to do 106 pounds remember 106 inch pounds it's not the same as 106 pounds torque I broke a screw just remember that and it didn't affect anything on breaking one screw because I put some light silicone around the gasket could of been worse
so we not gonna talk about when he left the diff free hang with no bolts above his head then dropped the entire front diff and couldve easily offed himself shouldnt be under a lift
Oh buddy go do one in a malibu or monte carlo that has the 3.9l 3900 series engine in it on the ground in a driveway. I never realized how much i hated working at home on the ground as a side job until i did one of these pan gaskets lol. Book time is like 6.5 hours i think. To put into perspective the oil pan in the video here is only book timed for 3.5 hours lolol. But still a pain to do these without proper tools or a lift. Worst part is getting the diff in and out by yourself. Which dorsnt need to completely come out. Just lower it down while cv axles and front driveshaft are still connected and it can hang there while u work around and above it
