2007 Honda Accord 4 Door SE. Three Power Windows Don't Work From Any Switch. 

Yes if you ground that relay permanently it will be energized all the time and the relay will draw around 100mA. Depending on weather conditions and battery capacity I'd estimate 4 to 6 days in summer and 3 to 4 days in winter.

@doobietwo1 glad it helped you out

I did notice 1 slight issue with this fix, besides the child window lock not working which doesnt bother me. Before this fix, I could use my key fob to open all my windows remotely while walking to my car on a hot day. Now only the driver side window opens with the fob. Still not a big deal, I'd rather that than the slow battery drain. Thx again!

😊😊⁰

I would do this on my own car. It can always be fixed correctly, just plug in the new switch and remove the relay to restore the child lockout feature for a mere $500.00...

Glad it helped you out. Now you just need a small stick to smack the kids in the back seat if they won't stop playing with the windows.

So did you just replaced the relay and it worked? Without changing any wires?

Do you have a link to the relay?

dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend for the last months =)

@Koda Joaquin Yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself :D

Glad it helped you.

@@PhillipBailey 🍷

@@Yonder-q4j interesting...

That is good but the child lockout feature should not work with this mod.

@@PhillipBailey That’s crazy because I did it exactly how you did it. I was also having the exact same issues as you were we’re only my driver side window would open and the passengers wouldn’t but I could hear the clicking. Once I did this mod using your diagram now they’re working. I was talking about the Child window lock.

Yes I can't believe how common this issue is on a number of Honda models. Glad it helped you. Some have reported finding the switch at cheap price but certainly not in Canada eh.

​@@PhillipBaileyI have this problem on my 05' Honda Accord. Car only has 53k original miles 🤷‍♀️

Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you.

I'm not sure it's the same circuit but may be for sure. Let me know what you do to fix it.

Glad it helped you out.

That's comforting ☺️

Glad it helped you.

control circuit ?

@@shaneeem6114master window control

Yes you are correct to T into the wire strip a section of insulation off the wire, wrap the wire around, solder and seal with tape. There's very little current so 16 or 18 gage wire is adequate. Terminals to fit the relay are usually 1/4" female spade red in color. Good luck and let me know how it works for you.

Don't sell yourself short. There are lots of excellent female technicians out there.

Good luck

Apparently there are different versions of the master switch. Some contain the remote electronics I believe. Does your keyless entry work if you have that?

Thanks for the comments. I sometimes forget the details and assume people understand a basic relay and have basic electrical skills. I'll try to be clearer in the future.

@@PhillipBailey I was able to figure this out pretty easily, but a visual aide can be very helpful. My diagnostic process was also slightly different than yours. I measured the power at the control pins of my P/W relay with a multimeter. I had no power on the pins. I did not have a relay jumper, but I tested the relay to be good by using a swap test. When I grounded the green/white wire with my test light, I heard the relay clicking. At that point, all the windows worked. Your solution is pretty smart. You're providing a ground to energize the relay, but only when the ignition is on. After looking at the schematics, I understood how simple this job is.

@@fyodorberkovich8247 hopefully this helped you out.

@@PhillipBailey without this video, I would still be diagnosing

Depends on which switch and options the car has. Yes ive seen some cheap ones.

Duu

Some people have been able to source the master switch for a decent price but not here. Let me know what you end up doing.

Let us know how you do.

@@PhillipBailey its fixed now, thanks a lot👍👍

at 12:19 in the video is a schematic. All the wires from the relay are spliced into the appropriate wires at the master switch. The existing wires are still connected to the switch. HTH

Did you use the relay or did you just connect a jumper to pins 1 and 3. If you just put a jumper it will energize the lockout relay and cause a parasitic draw. Is the alarm system factory or aftermarket?

You can use any 4 pin relay. You have to fabricate the actual wires for it though.

Yes most likely is the switch. If you can find one for a reasonable price I'd go for it. Pop the switch assembly out and you should be able to figure it out. Couple connectors to unplug. Don't have the car here anymore. It could also be a broken wire between the driver door and pillar in that rubber flexible boot. I'd visually check that before ordering the switch. Good luck.

Check fuses 24 25 and 26 for power after your modification. It they don't have power review your work as you may have wired the relay incorrectly. You could also have a broken wire in between the door and pillar that is controlling the 3 windows lockout relay. This relay is shown at 5:00, 5:42 and 6:15 in the video. Try bypassing the lockout relay.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it helped you.

@@PhillipBailey yes it did a great deal of help...although I didn't go through the trouble of connecting the relay like you did...I just jumped the power window relay.... And evening works fine including the window deactivation button... I dont think there'd be parasitic draw since the window only operate with key on

@@FASTECAUTO how exactly did you do it. Just bypassed the passenger power window relay? Jumped 30 to 87?

@@PhillipBailey I just took out the relay you jumped in your video...jumped the load side with a stripped wire and plugged it back in. I haven't noticed any problem since...

@@FASTECAUTO Although that will not likely cause a problem the three power windows will work with the ignition off. Interesting...

The master switch needs to supply a ground to turn on the relay under the dash that supplies power to the passenger switches. The windows all worked fine from the master switch. If you permanently ground the passenger switch relay it will cause a parasitic draw. HTH

@@PhillipBailey I implemented your solution last weekend and it's working well for all the windows on my 08 Accord (but without the child safety button of course). Thank you for the useful video.

Any standard 4 pin relay will work. I'm sorry but don't have a part number. I have dozens of used ones from various vehicles. Most relays only require 100 to 150 mA of current to activate. Try a salvage yard for one that looks like the relay I used. They will probably just give it to you. Take a picture from the video if you need to. Sounds like tge parts store is selling you a starter solenoid relay.

www.ebay.ca/itm/Relay-4-Pin-20A-12V-CE-Make-Break-On-Off-For-Car-Van-Boat-Bike-Terminal-SPDT-/333747129274?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Here is an example.

@@PhillipBailey awesome! Thanks man. I'll try it this week

@@edgaranaya2956 how did you fare with your window issue?

@@PhillipBailey your awesome Phillip ....he didnt reply but im sure hes all good .

You can temporarily ground the circuit and that will turn on the relay which will allow the three windows to be closed.

@@PhillipBailey Thanks for the quick reply. What would be the best way to do that?

No I have not. I took a look at the schematic and it's quite a bit different. The master switch on the driver door locks out the other doors by removing the ground for them. It does not turn on a relay like this 07. There is a relay under the dash but it's turned on by the Passenger Multiplex Control Unit. This relay feeds all four switches so if your driver switch is working then this relay is good. Check fuses 7, 8 and 16 for power with the ignition on. Do the other three windows work from the driver control switch? There is a white/red wire at the master switch on the driver door that is grounded by the lockout switch to enable the other three windows, Check to make sure you don't have a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar. make sure that the white/red is grounded if not supply a ground to it and see if the three windows start working.

So one of the power windows works with the key off? Which one? Both open and close?

@@PhillipBailey the passenger one. But its a RHD version. Just the 1 window (continuous live behaving as if the key in the ignition all the time). When the keys in all of them work as they should. When its out, i have the passenger front window continuous live keeps draining the battery after a week or two, while all the remaining windows behave correctly meaning they only work when the key is in, and disengage power. Id love to figure out the issue, car gets used maximum 100km in a week at the moment. Every 5 days with a lot of sitting around. Answer to ur question: passenger front, yes works up and down, u can even see the light illuminated at night when the car's locked with the fob🙈

@michalsilezin8898 so the left front door window works with the ignition switch off. What year, make and model. You say it's rhd as well.. give me the year make and model and I'll look at the circuit see if I can figure out anything. Does it have power locks? Do they work properly? I'd check the wiring between the door and pillar. Maybe someone fixed wires in there and switched some wires around. With the key off and condition present pull other fuses one at a time to try to locate the fuse that's actually supplying the power to the switch.

Year 2004, Model Accord 2.2CDTI executive, 5 door saloon version. Has power to the locks, central locking does work Properly and correctly. Will definitely start with checking fuses inside cabin, thank you for your input - it really is appreciated as every night a the moment I am disconnecting the battery clamps off the battery, and when the car is needed again manually unlocking it, popping up the hood to then reconnect the battery to get going as per normal. I wish you were closer. @@PhillipBailey

Did you figure it out?​@@michalsilezin8898

Yes for sure you still need that.

@@PhillipBailey thank you. Amazing video. Car guru has a bunch of people asking about this from as long as 10 years ago.

@@hexc0nn392 yes ive learned its a common problem. Glad it's helped someone.

Just add the new relay. Leave everything else original. Good luck

You could try a used driver door switch. On some that's the keyless entry module so if you have remotes they won't work. I doubt its the individual switches as all of them would have to be bad.

@@PhillipBailey right understand. We do have remotes. I'm just unsure of how to do this relay install but I'm a decent parts swapper

This video is not your problem if it only is affecting the right rear window. I'd check the wiring in between the rr door and pillar for broken wires. If the window is gradually dropping it may have a broken regulator.

So it's the right front window and door lock that don't work? From the master switch and from the RF switch? If this is the case let me know and I'll look at the circuit.

There is a connector called C107 on the right side under the dash and all the wiring to the right door passes through it. The power windows and locks are separate circuits. Fuse B33 feeds the right power window but there is no separate fuse for the rf lock. Look for that connector on the right side of the glovebox. It may not be seated correctly.

If you watched the video you likely have tge same problem as this car. Likely a failed master switch but you need to do some tests to confirm it's not a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar.

Sounds like you've got it wired incorrectly. The relay is to be turned on by the ignition feed and then supply the ground to the under dash relay. Recheck the two grounds. If the relay is turned on all the time it will draw around 100mA which would run the battery down in a few days. Depends on battery state of charge and ambient temperature.

@@PhillipBailey but why do you think grounding pin 3 with pin 20 will not work? After all pin 20 gets power when ignition is on and that should ground pin 3. What is the need for relay?

@@rohitv.tangellamudi3735 you can't connect it that way. I'll watch the video again give me a second

@@rohitv.tangellamudi3735 pin 20 is ignition switched power or positive. You can't connect it directly to pin 3 which is supposed to be a ground brom the master switch. Tee a wire into pin 20 wire and connect thar to pin 85 of any standard 4 pin relay. Connect pin 86 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch by again teeing into the wire. No when you turn on the key the new relay should click. Tee a wire into pin 3 and connect that to 30 on the relay. Connect 87 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch. Tee it in. You can also connect it to pin 86 of the relay so two wires on the same terminal. The way this works is the ignition power on pin 85 and ground on 86 energizes the electromagnetic coil. This causes the contacts in the relay to mechanically connect pin 30 to 87. This supplies the missing ground from the switch to supply the ground to the under dash relay that feeds power for the three door windows to work. All wires are teed into the respective circuits at thevswitch. 12:20 in this video. Hope this is helpful

@@PhillipBailey thank you very much for the detail

Other than checking that connector you mentioned and for broken wires between the door and A pillar you will need to test the circuits. and actuator in the door.

That sounds like a problem with the left rear window switch. It has two internal relays in it with normally closed contacts. Try switching the left rear with the right rear. I know it does not seem to make sense since it works from that switch but give it a try. Let me know how you fare.

@@PhillipBailey hello again, I had the idea of doing that after I posted this comment since the plugs are the same for both sides, will report back

@@richardayalin4051 any standard 4 pin relay will work. I used a used relay from a Ram.

I had a used relay. Any standard 4 pin relay will work. You will need about 3 feet of 18 gage wire, 4 female spades that fit the relay some solder and tape.

That particular one in the video I purchased in a kit of three off the Snap-on truck. They were bluepoint brand. I don't think they sell them anymore. I have several types. Here is an awesome kit made by Lisle that I use a lot as well: ca.jbtools.com/lisle-69300-master-relay-set-w-leads-switch-fuse-power/ If you just want to bypass a relay try this kit: www.google.com/search?q=relay+switch+kit&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALiCzsbEGw7I_kbwN_gdgRgmqmb2AQvIaA:1656040588417&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjygIb4j8X4AhUeLFkFHQIrCMoQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=412&bih=783&dpr=2.63#imgrc=bnUY_-EjxP1SVM They are both great but the Lisle kit can help you test the actual relay in the circuit.

@@PhillipBailey Thank you so much I have a 2006 accord 3.0 coupe that the drive window works. But the passenger window does not I have changed the motor the switch and the fuses. Then I saw your video and my master switch does not activate the relay when using the window lock out switch so wanting to see if this would fix mine. Thanks for the response and the awesome video.

You need to check the fuses, then test the circuits to the switch between the door and pillar.

I didn't buy one but any standard 4 pin relay will work. This additional relay turns on the relay under the dash so yes you have to leave it installed.

Thanks

Check the fuses but it's not likely the same problem if only one widow is not working. Check wires between door and pillar.

Yes this seems quite common. It was brought to my attention that this has been a topic on quite a few Honda forums. That's one neat thing about posting these videos. You find out just how often these problems arise.

Wanted to add that after jimmying with the childlock button, the windows worked as normal for about an hour before it failed again. Jesus, man. This is crazy shit. 500 Canadian is like 350 USD? How do I find someone willing to do this job for less than like $1000 USD. A dealer service department would probably charge something outrageous and probably fuck it up somehow . I haven't had a good experience with Honda service depts. Mostly the managers. My car is old and they treat me like shit because of that and because I'm young. I just need an honest mechanic to give my business to.

@@PhillipBailey Well thanks for the video. Should I take this to a specialty shop or is this something most good mechanics could pull off. I like saving money on this issue. Ill never need the child lock if that's all I gotta give up. I'll buy something else when I have a kid on the way !

@@Chironex_Fleckeri I would say that any decent tech could do this. The dealer won't because they are worried about liability. Ask around I'm sure there are lots of guys that could do this. It's just a relay and a couple of spliced wires. Alternatively you could search Amazon and Ebay for the switch and install it yourself. As you can see it's not difficult to remove. Buying the part online and installing it yourself will likely be close to what a shop would charge to modify it this way. HTH and good luck.

Rewatch the video from 12:10 on. You just need a conventional 4 pin relay. All wires are tee'd into. Strip a small amount of insulation on the three wires at the switch and attach the three wires from the relay. Everything can be done inside the driver door at the switch.

@@PhillipBailey thank you very much. Didn’t want to start this repair until I got clarification. Excellent video.

@@PhillipBailey sorry super idiot here. You do that with insulated copper wire correct?

@qmaster2205 yes insulated wire for sure

Yes that will work.

I'll have a look at the diagram to see if the circuit is the same...

@@PhillipBailey Oh yes please i'm going nuts with this issue thank you so much

I gather you meant TSX and if so the circuit looks the same but you need to confirm the master switch has failed.

Any standard 4 pin relay will work. Most relays follow a standard pin number format. Google how a relay works to learn how it functions. You can go to a salvage yard to get one from a salvage vehicle if you like.

@@PhillipBailey that works, thank you for getting back to me!

@@PhillipBailey Just wanted to follow up and let you know this worked for my 07 Odyssey! Just finished and all windows work. Lock out button still works too. Your awesome buddy, thank you for the video!! 🍺🍺

@@rb5472 glad you figured it out.

Pretty much any standard 4 pin or 5 pin relay will work.

I'm not sure on the relationship of the interior lights. Sorry

@@PhillipBailey Thanks for your reply. I believe the power Window switch was tampered with by the previous car owner. I traced the fuse for the interior lights and it was blown. I replaced the fuse today and all interior lights and window buttons started working again. Just that a new issue came up. I can't use the central lock if the ignition is not turned on. I decided to replace the battery on the key fob and noticed another issue. The car is no longer responding to the key fob even though the light on the key comes on when you press the buttons. I did some research and it turns out that the car now recognises the power window switch as a new part, meaning I have to re-programme my key fob. I did that with a tutorial I came across on RU-vid and the car responded to the key fob when it is in the ignition but doesn't immediately I take it out. I have programmed it multiple times but it keeps doing the same thing. I am tired and confused.

@@smartsteevy I believe the master switch is the remote keyless entry receiver as well so if it's failed could result in the inability to program the remotes. This car did not have any issues with the remotes. Good luck possibly a new switch is in order here.