* PLEASE NOTE * - During filming, I made the mistake of initially installing the idler pulley backwards, and although I mentioned that in the subtitle, please make sure you install the idler pulley correctly. The shoulder that sits proud of the pulley side goes toward the block. I'm sorry for any confusion this may have caused, if in doubt double check that it will still rotate with the bolt snug before putting the belt on!
Put a new front suspension on a 90's full sized front wheel once, took a 8 foot cheat pipe on 3/4 " drive . I at 300 lbs stood on end of pipe while helper beat the socket with a big peen hammer. Never agian, without 3/4 " drive impact.
@@qbanceo Hi Cesar, I didn't do seals this time because they were still feeling pliable, the low mileage, and it was always stored in a heated garage before he bought it. There was no sign of weepage at all. As well, since it is my father-in-law's car, not a customer unit where it would cost me money to go back in, I figured they could wait. I agree though, if there is any question for the average person doing his/her own belt, then doing the seals too would be a good idea.
hey man I just wanted to let you know: I saw this video about 2 years ago and I thought this seemed just too difficult for me to ever do. Impossible. No way. Well as my accord 07 v6 needed ball joints, a starter, power steering pump, engine mounts, etc my confidence grew. Then after a lot of learning and preparation.. I did it. As corny as it sounds it was a personal milestone. Now a timing belt seems no big deal compared to other things Ive done. This video was crucial in the timeline. haha Just thanks a lot sir.
Hi Alexander, thanks for writing. I'm just glad that you could find the video useful. It was a bit different fir me in that 20 years ago when I worked for Honda we did lots of them but the cars were on hoists and we had all the special tools. This time was at home on jack stands so I figured others at home may find it interesting. If you have patience, a service manual, and some basic required tools, you can do most of the regular auto repairs at home. It doesn't sound corny at all hearing it from you, glad to hear you've been able to save money and have fun with it!
Alex bro. Idk if you still have the accord to remember working on it. But I am restoring/ building a 06 accord v6 and I am currently trying to replace engine mounts. Would you be the man and give me some tips/ heads ups for doing it?
@@lcsvlone2811YES! Alex if you could please assist!!! I have the exact same vehicle and engine I need the exact same thing replaced in my car. PLEASE!! 💓
Just used your video to tackle this on my car with 263k miles. Prior to this the biggest job I’d ever done was a brake caliper. It took me two entire days working from 9 AM to 10 PM, but I got it! Wouldn’t have been able to without this video. Watched it probably 100 times in the process. Something worth mentioning is bleeding the coolant system when you’re done. My car started overheating after this job, and it just didn’t occur to me to bleed the air out.
Best video for a complex job ever! Do a step pause the video, repeat till done. Thank you for posting. Started car and it ran perfectly. Would not have tried without this help. Thanks again.
Having watched dozens of timing belt videos through the years, this is clearly the best of all. By the way, there is a common question people ask when they rotate the crank after marking the belt, when they realize that after rotation the belt marks no longer match up. The fact is the length of the belt is not a common multiple of the circumference of the camshaft pulley. Just like a race course, the length of the course has little to do with the stride of the horses. So, it is completely expected for belt marks to appear out of phase after you rotate the crank to check your work. You only need to worry about the marks on the pulleys themselves.
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad you liked the video! Yeah, the paint marks are only for initial installation of the new belt so that mathematically one puts the new belt on with no difference in cam/crank relationship. I just liked the trick that my mentor Randy taught me as it was good piece of mind as an apprentice that I wouldn't screw it up, lol!
Because of this step by step tutorial, my gf and I was able to knock this job out in no time, with the exception of the crank shaft bolt. After breaking a standard 1/2 inch extension, I had to buy impact rated extensions for the job. It took a 5 foot leverage bar, all of my 200lbs of weight and I swear it seemed damn near 180° of rotation to break that bastard loose. As fate would have it, it's been less than a year and I am having to replace the tensioner again. At least the crank shaft bolt came off with a 1/2in electric impact wrench. Anyway, I appreciate the video. Absolute time saver!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it could be of help. Did you get the Continental kit too? I had to replace my Father-In-Law's tensioner after about 10 months too. It's been good since though.
Excellent video. At first glance under the hood a person would think, "nope". After watching your video I would have no problem tackling this job. Thank you!
Everett, this has to be the best video any mechanic has ever posted! Simply well explained and to the point. Thank you so much!! No offense intended to anyone else that has posted a video of mechanical work done to a vehicle; they either don’t know what they are doing or simply just want to post a video.
Lol, thanks Enrique, I appreciate your kind words. Just glad it could be of use. There are many things I have learned from others on this platform so I feel blessed to be able to return something in my own small way if it helps others.
So I know this is an older video but figured I’d ask anyway and hope for the reply haha Just recently purchased a 2007 Accord with a V6 for $3400, at time of purchase no funny noises, no problems starting and drove beautifully with 148K miles. The only code the car came back with was the crankshaft position sensor which the owner claimed to have replaced but because it wasn’t OEM the code would always stay on. Figured no big deal and went ahead with it. Fast forward a few days of driving, the car sometimes struggles to start and I may need to hit the gas for it to fully go as well as the car idles insanely rough feeling sometimes as if the car wants to stall out and turn off & the idling roughens up even more when the AC is on as well as it’s now leaking power steering fluid. At this point I’ve now had 3 people look at the car and this is what they’ve all collectively said 1) idle control valve & crankshaft position sensor 2) crankshaft position sensor & harmonic balancer 3) timing belt may be getting ready to go & or w as replaced and not done properly so it’s off timing hence the code for the crankshaft sensor... 4)can potentially not be any of the first 3 and might just need a new motor as the last mechanic claimed to have heard a sound potentially from a head but also said that might just be the belt I don’t mind spending another $1000-$1200 to get the car running 100% but I don’t want to spend it and not actually have that be the problem & turns out the cars just a dud. The last mechanic I spoke too also mentioned the serpentine belt looks original so he’s leaning towards it being the timing belt but doesn’t want to charge me for diagnosing and it not be the right problem with him saying that and To my understanding the V6 specifically very rarely has this sensor issue which makes me question laying the cash out or just cutting my losses and selling it. It just sucks having to risk the money to figure that out and it’s really putting me in a bind here. In a nutshell, with your knowledge experience what do you think are the are the odds of it being the timing belt and sensor issue or can it be something deeper like headers or something internal? I really appreciate you in advanced bud
Well, I would doubt that an aftermarket crank sensor would cause a code just because it's aftermarket. What you have on the go as far as symptoms could be a number of different causes but as for the crank sensor, what I would be doing is looking along the whole harness from the senor to the PCM, looking for any pinched or chafed cables. If he replaced the sensor and still has the code, I'd be suspecting wiring or PCM. There is also a crank sensor relearn that is done with a scan tool when it is replaced. As for the dampener, I doubt it would need replacement unless you see the outer rim of it starting to come off the rubber mounting ring. Timing belt wise, if it is original then it is definitely worth doing as it would be on borrowed time one way or another. It's hard to give a hard and fast diagnosis over a text message or comment like this, without seeing the car itself, but hopefully this can be of some help. Thanks for coming by!
Thank you for taking the time to make this great video. I have an associates degree in auto mechanics but I graduated in 1995 and it's been over 2 decades since I've worked in the field and done a timing belt and this was a great tutorial video and refresher for me. My '07 Accord has a 3.0L and is a 6 speed with 83k miles. With the timing belt being 16 years old and the car sitting alot I wanted to change the timing belt and found your video. The only mistake I made was forgetting to take the car out of 1st gear when I was turning the engine over to line up the timing marks but thankfully discovered it quickly. Watching this also allowed me to prep getting the timing belt kit and the crank pulley tool along with some extra tools for that crank pulley bolt before starting the job. Awesome video, thank you.
WOW, I just got a quote of $1,400 from an independent Honda mechanic! I do a lot of my own maintenance on my vehicles but for some reason I thought this was out of my league. Nope, I'm going to tackle this job myself thanks to your clear video of this!! Thanks!!!
Well, depending on whether they are using OEM Honda parts, doing the crank and cam seals (which I didn't bother with on my father-in-law's car), where you live, etc., it might not be all that out of line for a quote. If you have some mechanical aptitude, get a few required tools, and take your time, you should be ok. The thing is that even with the video here I recommend getting a basic Haynes or Chilton service manual. It will give you torque specs, diagrams, and another view of how to do the job.
Bruce Wayne price seems high Honda factory parts are a little over 500$ so labor of 900$ seems a little on the steep side. Get a couple more estimates if possible. Good luck 🍀
@@chrisn262 I did it myself. OEM parts were $165 total. Took 10 hours. No real big issues, just one or two bolts hard to get to. Crank bolt came of with wedged 1/2 drive ratchet on the crossarm and then bumped the starter and it popped loose second try. I saved so much money and it was fairly easy!
I did the timing belt and water pump replacement on my 07 Accord V6 this past weekend, and the tip on marking the old belt and transferring the marks to the new belt was critical for me. When I put the new belt on with the marks, I was still off by 1 tooth. I thought maybe I had put the marks wrong, and took the new belt back out to compare with the old one. The marks were correct on the new belt. I re-tried the new belt installation and got it on the same marks on the rear camshaft. If it wasn't for the marks, I would have put the new belt on, off by 1 tooth, because the rear cam mark was seemed like it was aligned at TDC, but in reality it wasn't. That would have been bad. Thank goodness for marking the belt!
I'm glad it came out well for you, sometimes for some reason (and it isn't manufacturer-specific) the timing marks are just slightly off even when reassembling exactly like the service manual says. I got the belt marking trick from one of my co-workers when I worked at a Honda dealer and it's been a very handy trick for me throughout the years to verify things were as they should be. Glad it could be of help to you as well!
This was the best video I've found yet. I'm planning on doing this maintenance this weekend on a 2011 Accord. Thank you for documenting this for the rest of the world :). Warm regards from AZ
Thanks Travis, I'm just glad it could be of use for you. Just make sure the timing belt idler pulley is on correctly, I wasn't as clear about that as I should have been.
My dad and I are backyard mechanics but hesitant to do this job since its such a crucial part to the car, but after watchint this video im more confident we can do it. Thanks for the upload
I'm buying my daughter a V6 Accord in a couple days its done 200,000km but recently had the timing belt done. Good car for My daughters first Ride. Cheers on your information 👍 thanks from Australia 🇦🇺 👍. So used to water pumps being driven by power steering belt or the alternator belt. Cool show mate.
Thanks for writing, it's cool to hear from people all over the world! The Accords really are good cars, take care of it and it will have many years of service.
@@EverettsWorkshop Very informative video. Planning this same task on my 99' Accord V6. One spec that you mentioned when reinstalling the crankshaft bolt. You said 47ft lbs. plus 60 degrees. How many turns are needed to accomplish 60 degrees?
@@josephbell2160 To do the torque-turn spec on that one, use your torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 47 ft-lb then, using a torque angle gauge (either dial or digital) on a breaker bar/flex handle, tighten the bolt another 60 degrees, or 1/6 of a turn. Not sure why Honda wanted them so tight but that's what they call for.
@@EverettsWorkshop Yeah, good thing I asked because I Googled the torque specs and it was for 181ft. lbs. That's pretty tight but 47ft. lbs. sounds more feasible. Thanks for the info. Gives me confidence knowing I can tackle the job myself
Thanks for the wonderful weekend for the successful timing belt and water pump change! Yes, it took longer than what a professional would take, but I learned a lot from your excellent video, which I had watched each step repeatedly so I wouldn't create a boat anchor as you had joked. So this was my first timing belt change and may not be the last now that I've added a new skill in my "toolbox", not to mention a the 3/4" breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer bolt off. :-)
This video is top notch. I just picked up a 2000 and you highlighted everything someone with a moderate level of mechanics ability needs to knock this job out!
Thank you for the video! I was dreading this job after my brother and I did our first timing belt/water pump replacement on his '99 Miata a couple of months ago. I thought working on an engine mounted transversely would be much more difficult, but it wasn't. We tackled this job last weekend in about 8 hours following along with your video, and things went pretty smoothly aside from a few tough to reach bolts and, of course, getting the crank pulley bolt off. (We snapped a 50 mm crank pulley holder and had to go buy another.) I appreciate the humor you added while doing the job along with the step by step details, instructions and commentary. Thanks again from Dallas, TX.
Nice comment. I was wondering about the crank pulley holder breaking. Was that the black gizzmo that he put on the crank pulley bolt? If so, I'm not really sure what that is for. From the name of the thing it "holds" the pulley - but why, what, how???
I never use a ratcheting wrench as breaker bar. Asking to destroy it. Otherwise great video! I snapped a 1/2 in drive breaker bar trying to pull that crank bolt off. This was after heating bolt with propane torch and pounding on it. Also tried using pneumatic impact wrench as you did. Still no luck. Then the neighbor kid came over and broke it loose with a Milwaukee 18V electric impact gun. Gotta be that vibrating action or something. I'm still sore from trying to break that loose and that was yesterday afternoon! 62 years old so probably why!
I have been turning wrenches for a long time and this video is great. I watch them to learn the lessons learned files before I make the same mistakes. Great job of hitting the highlights of what to look for. I did have one question, to my knowledge this is a non-interference valve train. If, God forbid, those pulleys aren't exactly right. I don't think it makes a brown trouser moment, just frustration, but happy to be educated.
Thank you for the kind words, I am simply thankful that it can be a blessing to people who want to give it a go on their own or at least give them an idea of what the technician is getting into should the job be taken to a shop. As for the interference/non-interference concern, I have had to do valves on Honda V6's in the past where the belt, water pump, or tensioner, has failed. Long ago and far away when I still worked at a Honda store, but I have seen it. That being said, there are conflicting sources of information on the Internet arguing back and forth about it. What I will say is that I have seen interference engines experience a "miraculous crankshaft stop" on a failed belt where the valves were still ok, and a number of failed belts/pumps/tensioners where the valves got smacked. Given the conflicting information and personal experience I have seen at the Honda dealer I was at, I will still be darn sure of timing marks and doing timing belts at proper times when my friends and family ask me for help with them. It never hurts to lean toward the care involved in an interference unit even if it turns out to be otherwise. BTW - I love the way you all in the UK put things - "brown trouser moment" takes me back to watching Red Dwarf, lol!
Holy smokes, that crank pulley bolt sure was stubborn... now that required torque plus. What a relief once it let go! Long time since I did a timing belt job and doubt I'd even tackle one again at my age - don't think my old back would manage. For anyone with this car model you have made a very handy record of the process - nicely done and overall the lighting worked out pretty good. Engine looks pretty clean for the car's age. :)
Thanks, Chris! I remember them being tight, but it was also different at Honda because we had hoists! It was a great deal for them - the often-sought, babied, "little old lady car" that everyone looks for. Been trying to keep the videos normally under 25 minutes but figured if someone's needing to do this job then they'll be more likely to watch the steps.
Only if you had to remove the engine for some other purpose (e.g. crank replacement, etc.), as it would take longer to remove the engine for just doing the belt and pump than it would be worth. If you had the engine out for some other reason then by all means it would be about a 20 minute job, but not worth the hassle if it's just the maintenance belt/pump replacement job.
I tried for hours to get that crank pulley bolt to break using sprays, torches and impact wrenches. I finally resorted to using the starter and it broke off in 30 seconds.
Keep at it old timer, it's about the journey, not the end point. People like you are a wealth of knowledge to younger folk that are afraid to tackle things. Get a good chiropractor and hit that next timing belt with a vengeance and show your kids/grandkids what you got.
For those who wants to attempt this job, there's a special Lisle socket for the crank bolt. You use the special socket with a high torque impact wrench and it'll zip the crank bolt off with no problem. I've never seen any crank bolt that stood a chance against that combination.
That socket wasn't around when I worked for Honda, or else you bet I would have bought one! Wasn't aware of them until a few others commented as well, suggesting to use the socket. From what I csn tell they look like they work, so yes, for anyone else doing this job more than once, getting the socket would be a good investment!
You did an excellent job! Very helpful to us all. I'm considering picking up an 06 with 130k miles and I'll probably do this job at least once. I've done this on a few Honda CRX/civics and a diesel Passat. I did exactly the same thing with the whiteout on notches and belt and transferring to new belt. Haha. Yes, the CRX crank bolt was beyond stupid hard to get out! I had an enormous leveraged bar and two neighbors that wanted in on breaking it loose.. When it let loose, we all tripped and fell on each other.. but we won the fight
Thank you, glad the video could be of use for you! And aren't those crank bolts stupid tight? Definitely worth buying the crank holding tool, but if you've done Civics then you've got the tool already.
Hi again Everett. I'm in the UK and have done timing belts on a few Peugeot's. They usually have the timing marks printed on them but that's a really good tip you gave. Great video too. All the best. Jim.
Thanks! Never worked on a Peugeot, but that impresses me that an auto engineer would have the foresight to simply add the timing marks to the belt! Maybe there is hope for them! :P
@@EverettsWorkshop yeah, they print model-specfic marks on TB for an extra $5 instead of one TB for 50 great J-serie engine 👏 I own both Benz and Honda... Japanese parts are far superior to short lived German parts. Love thy HondAcura. 👍
Good stuff. Just ordered my kit and will be doing this exact same procedure to my 2012 V6 Accord with 130k miles. Along with spark plugs, and brake pads and rotors. NOTE: I think I read somewhere that the main crank bolt was to get a dab of anti-seize. Definitely do NOT use Loctite on it, in case anyone was wondering.
Thanks, glad the video is of use to you! I just looked in the service manual and the diagram specifies using clean engine oil on the crank pulley bolt threads and under the head, so anti-seize lubricant should be acceptable as a substitute. And a definite NO to Loctite, that's for sure, lol!
Thanks for sharing! I was way more comfortable in changing my timing belt after watching your video. Your trick for marking the timing belt was very useful!
Thank you for writing back, I am glad the video could be of use to you. I can't take the credit for the belt marking trick, that I learned from a Honda tech named Randy when I was an apprentice. Learned a lot from him!
It's a very good tutorial on how to get the complete 105K maintenance done on a Honda Accord V6. I'd change some of the order of the work based on my past experiences working on my Honda. Instead of trying to take the harmonic balancer pulley bolt off first, I let it soaked with the liquid wrench for about 2 hours. During that time, I'd work on removing the upper parts of the engine cam shaft covers and other ancillary parts to get to the timing belt. It took me about 30min persistent turning with the 3.5 ft water pipe and a 30" 1/2 breaker bar to persuade the stubborn bolt to break loose. I'd not use a ratchet to remove this bolt, it could be damaged in the process. In addition, when putting the tensioner pulley back, I would put the tensioner in first because it is below the tensioner pulley. The idler pulley requires thread locker because it run CCW while the crankshaft and the cam shafts run CW. I noticed Honda uses the red threadlock, not blue. I'd also leave the bolts with the tensioner pulley and idler pulley before transfer them to the new parts so I know how it would come back during installation. The tip for marking the old and the new timing belt is a good one, I've heard it before but having all the marks will ensure that no mistake is made when the new timing belt comes on the pulleys. I'd also take care keeping the bolts coming off the various parts in the right sequence so that they come back on the engine at the exact same place even if the bolts are the same size) so there is no issue with reinstallation. I'd rather not stripping a thread on the engine block if the bolts cannot be hand tighten until torqued down. I'd suggest using Latex glove to keep the oil and grimes off your hands. I did my 105K on my 16 years old Honda Accord and the timing belt still has plenty of life left, probably another 30K. The Honda dealer wanted to replace it 6 years earlier because it was 10 years but I declined because my car has very low mileage and is very well maintained. She is ready for another 105K duty cycle if I decide to keep her and continue using it for my daily commute.
Thanks Tim, this is just how I do them after working at Honda for a few years a number of years ago. It makes no difference when at home if one removes the crank pulley first or the upper timing covers, but when it is set up on a hoist, it's quickest to pull the tire, pull the crank pulley bolt, then lower the car and take everything out from under the hood (serp belt, upper and lower covers, etc.). I used my big 3/4" ratchet I affectionately call "Bertha," and it's not going to break under my weight, for sure. As for the tensioner install, as long as it's seated properly, it doesn't really matter if it goes in before or after lining up the belt - just as long as the "grenade pin" is in place. The idler pulley bolt does need threadlocker, as it does run CCW as you say, but threadlocker colors can be misleading depending on the manufacturer. If it's torqued properly, the threadlocker is just insurance, and the Loctite medium blue is plenty sufficient for this application. I agree about keeping fasteners organized so they end up back in their respective components, as doing a heli coil in those tight spaces would suck!
Thanks from St Paul Minnesota, your neighbors to the South. You're video helped me a lot with my 06 Accord V6. Your time and effort to shoot a video at the same time you're doing the job is very much appreciated. Thanks so much! Be safe and take care.
Thanks, glad you could find the video useful! It was put up in an attempt to help people at least know what was involved even if the job was booked into a shop.
Everett thanks a lot for the tutorial and help my friend. You don’t know how grateful I am for you showing me I can take this quest upon myself. Will be my first time. My 1st7th gen accord. Btw my accord coupe v6 has 94k original mileage. I personally replaced front 2 axles and rotors and pads all around. This accord isn’t my first vehicle to work on. I had a v6 99 cougars as well. So I’m an automobile technician without a certification learning hands on. Either way cheers and blessings
Hey Tony, thanks for writing, I'm very glad this could be of use to you! Just take your time, note how things come apart, and don't be afraid of taking lots of pictures on the disassembly to help on reassembly. Have fun!
Thanks, needed to do it for my father-in-law anyway, just hoped it would be of use to others who might be up against something similar. Even if they don't do it themselves it gives them an idea of what the mechanic has to do in the process.
Thanks for posting this video, without it I would have had to spend upwards of $1200 for the repair. Your presentation, video, and explanation was fantastic. Without it I would not have been able to complete the repair...thanks again and keep 'em coming.
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it was of help. Due to various "life" factors I have not had the ability to do as much in the shop as I would like to, but certainly intend to keep doing videos as I can get the chance to get out there and do something, lol.
I left that idler bolt loose and then I could not torque, it got stuck on the lip of the bearing and with the tension of the belt, could not do it. I did it again and let the bolt get into the bearing grove and left it loose, then put in the 33 ft-lb after timing belt when in. Also next time I will use a Honda belt or Aisin. The one that I used got me the brown pants was when I pulled the pin and the marks were 1/2 tooth off. What a surprise. And after 170k miles that crank was welded. Lisle 77080 to the rescue. Thank you for your video.
Glad the video could be of some help, kind of a bummer that the belt gave you grief going in. Without seeing how it came together it would be hard to see what the root issue with the binding coming together would be but as long as your marks all line up and the tensioner is doing its job you should be ok. If I wind up at a Honda dealer again I might look into one of those sockets but I just use "Bertha," my big 3/4" long ratchet for now. Thanks for coming by!
@@EverettsWorkshop Thank you. It is the belt I used. The number of teeth is the same, just a few mm off in manufacturing, but it works, the car runs without problems, check engine light is off. We turned the engine by hand and 3 times the marks checked okay. Thank you for your help.
Good video. I thought I saw the manual said to torque the crankshaft bolt to 181 ft/lb. My 2006 Accord is almost due for the third timing belt. Just crossing 350K mile mark. I have done a lot on the car but not the timing yet. Appreciate the video.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad the video could be of use to you. I have heard of the 181 ft/lb spec before too, but have always used the factory spec of 47 ft/lb plus 60 degrees (I have a copy of it). Maybe that comes out to roughly 180 ft/lb, never honestly tried to compare.
You have no idea (actually you do because you're an ex-Honda mechanic) of how many people you have helped and save $$$! Thank you for giving me the confidence and video walk through of this task! Like some have said, this is a milestone for me! I told my wife I'm never selling my 04 Accord as it's paid off and in great condition! My only question, I guess you have to fully drain the coolant from the radiator?
Thank you for the kind words, I'm just glad it could be a blessing to you. I did drain the coolant from the radiator as much as possible but when changing the water pump there will always be some coolant still on the block so have a pan under the front of the engine when removing the pump.
I Appreciate this video you made , couldn't have asked for better instructor . Thank You. I have 1999 Accord LX Coupe 167k had 144k miles when i bought it very reliable car for $500.00
Thank you for the kind words, I was just hoping that it could be useful to someone and it was for my in-laws so I had to do it anyway, lol! The '99s were part of the golden age of Accords in my opinion, I was working on them at Honda when they were still fairly new. For what it's worth, when I worked for Honda it was not uncommon to see vehicles in for oil changes with 300k, 400k, 500k, and even some over 600k km on the clock with original engines. As long as they're cared for they'll last a very long time. Unless the body is rotted out on yours, it's worth repairing till the body does come off or the transmission comes apart. Thanks for coming by!
South main auto Eric the car guy ⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️ These are actual instructors Everette here is well............ Let's just say some people shouldn't make videos.
Haven't tackled a Honda V6, but have an assortment of the little 1.6 & 1.7 engines. They were "fairly" easy to replace, but always was an issue with some of them to get the crank bolts loose! The Toyota 4 cyl. & V6 models always came apart with ease, even with a lower powered impact gun as they don't need to have their crank bolts stretched to an insane degree like the Hondas do!
Yeah, I'm not sure what the engineering philosophy was behind having such a turd of a tight crank pulley bolt was. When at work I just use a 3/4" impact at 160 psi and it pops loose but this one was done at home so I figured I'd show how I had to do it with only a lower powered impact available, lol.
GOD knows every time I watch a video like this. I know why I drive old Volvos. I could have removed and replaced the timing belt and water pump on a 240 in the length of this video. Which is just the highlights of this job. And I am not much exaggerating. I know Hondas are good cars. But they could have made it more simple. Removing the engines mounts to do this this is a bit much in my mind.
Lol, I've never had the honor to do a timing belt on a Volvo yet, for better or for worse. I'm not sure why they made the choices in manufacturing that they did, but at least Honda has more sense than GM when it comes to engine mounts - the 3.1/3.4L V6's in a lot of applications required front engine mount removal to change the serpentine belt!
if plugs + coils don't fix your engine random misfires... then replace upstream O2-Lambda with confidence. Do this as maintenance around 80 to 110kMi or when cold engine vibrates after winter start: "lazy 02". I have 170kMi with original coils, no prob!
Good video. I have 2 Accords but went with 4 cyl as to avoid timing belts. I just found a good deal on a v6 coupe with 5 speed. Wanted to see just how difficult this was going to be. Look easier than my wife's Highlander. I was a Toyota tech back in late 80's. Again thanks for the excellent video!
Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful. A Honda with a 5 speed will last you a long time if you keep it maintained, so well worth putting a belt and pump in.
@@chrisn262 man, that was a while back. Im not sure. There was something fishy about it. I have a saved search on craigslist for accords and get an email when theres a match. Anyhow i was just about to make contact and go look at it. I clicked on the link in the email again and it took me to a 4 door lx instead of the original 2 door ex.🤷♂️
Thanks Jason, glad you could find it of use! I didn't do the seals on this one because it was a low-risk situation (seals still pliable, no sign of sweat at all, and it was my father-in-law's car so I always have access to it). When you tackle it this weekend just mind the note of ensuring the idler pulley is on the block correctly as there seems to have been a bit of confusion at times for others (it will only go on one way and still turn).
The timing belt tensioners can be tricky, but they aren't bad compared to some engines I've worked on. The serpentine belt tensioner is worse, IMHO, lol
@@EverettsWorkshop hey thanks for the vid! I’ve got an 07 v6 that’s past due, so ill be busting out my dads tools when it warms up, and this video will be looped lol
Great video. My Honda Accord (2006) is going through this very repair. I managed to run mine too long and the belt actually broke, but it was a repair I had on the drawing board anyway.
Thanks for the compliment, I'm just glad it could be useful for other people. Hopefully not too many valves got bent when your belt broke. Thanks for coming by!
You may be right in that, with a strong impact gun and higher air pressure than my little home compressor can make. I have since done a few Honda timing belts at work in the last year but it's a heavy truck shop so the 3/4" gun at 160 psi didn't even flinch, lol.
Super video. I broke two tools trying to get off the crank shaft bolt. Finally got it off with 3/4 in truck tools (there is a video of a tool that can get this off using an impact wrench--I did not try or get this, just FYI.) The issue with my car was space, especially with the side that was closest to the passenger (both the main cover and the top timing cover.) I found that if you worked in tandem with someone else, the person from below could put the tool on the nut, then the person from above could use their hand or another tool to hold the rachet in place, while the bottom person performed the racheting. Very tight space, and I suggest a top quality 1/4 drive for this area. There was also a groove that the bottom and top covers met together. The passenger side timing cover was very difficult to go into the groove, again two people to get this to happen. The whole thing took me 11 hrs. It was a big job and my first one, but the video is spot on.
Thanks, I was just hoping it could be of use to someone up against this task on one of the engines from this engine family. Yes, some parts are very tight to get into some were 1/4" air ratchet, some were box end ratcheting wrench, some were just using a box end. And yes, those crank bolts are stupid tight. This is why mechanics tend to have dinged up hands and foul mouths :P
I have the same car exactly and am attempting this tonight. You’re the MAN! Should I put thread lock on the crank bolt? I heard oil on it before inserting was a good idea
Here in Canada, Honda recommends every 100k kilometres, which is about 60k miles. Guess it's our nasty climate or something. One way or another if you don't know when yours was last done these cars are worth taking care of so it would be worth doing.
Thanks for the kind words, hopefully it'll help some. If you were anywhere near Northern Alberta maybe you could come by and we could do it while you visited!
This was great but I screwed my timing up on pulley I was supposed to leave finger tight loose. I couldnt turn the bolt on the single idler pully more than 3 turns but it looked like your screwed in almost all the way. I mimicked how far you put the bolt in but apparently it was too far in (I used a ratchet) when putting the belt on it was too tight and caused the rear cam to jump a notch forward. Hopefully anyone reading this realizes how vital not tightening that pulley more than 2 or three turns in is until after the belt is on. I have not found a video on youtube showing me how to set the timing w the cams yet so boat anchor 2024!!!!
Well, whatever it is, their secret seems to have worked! Not sure about the newer stuff, seems pretty much every manufacturer is having trouble with reliability in one way or another, but they also all get parts from the same few suppliers, lol.
It truly is a fairly straightforward job for someone with a bit of mechanical inclination. What makes it faster and less likely to goof up is marking everything before removing the belt itself.
I hate to put you on the spot, but are torque specs really important for any of these bolts? I torqued the water pump bolts to 10 ft/lbs, the rest I've just gone a bit beyond snug (thread lock used on both the pulleys on the timing belt). I almost turned my car into a bodanker, the very lowest water pump bolt sheared off. Only 5.5 inches clearance between the bolt hole and the frame. After snapping off an ez-out, I've been working on it for a week with dremel bits, right angle drill and dremel adapters, and aself-fabricated steel guide/template to keep the dremel dead center on the bolt. Finally got a helicoil in there (started with time-sert, but the tools were too long). Again, this is a great video, watched it a few times now. Thanks -
Wow, you had quite the adventure with that bolt! Kudos to you for your patience in removing it and repairing the hole. Torque specs are there for a reason, so they are important, but there is a 'feel' for when bolts of various sizes are in the proper tightening range. I still use a torque wrench on the more critical fasteners but a lot of things like cover bolts are by feel. Glad you got yours back together though!
@@EverettsWorkshop What an honest answer. You really are a great teacher. I wish you were around when I was doing this repair. I got her all put together, and I looked up specs for the bolts I thought were critical. My Acura RL is purring like a kitten. You're the real deal, thank you.
Hey Everett, We pack Rat's have a motto. Waste not, Want not! We will mutter that with our last dying breath. :) Great video. Love the spectrum of content. Thanks - Mark
Thanks, Mark! Like a number of people I know, I just hate to see usable stuff get wasted. I used to have a 20 acre hobby farm which made it easier to hang on to stuff till it was needed, but moving into town has dampened that somewhat due to space restraints.
It’s an awesome explanation of the proper process it help me a lot, I have on question , can you send the diagram of the return heater hoses the ones that come out of the thermostat housing , that will help me a lot Regards
Thanks, I'm glad the video could be of help to you. As for the heater hoses I can check the service manual but would need your email address. If you send me an email at everettsworkshop@gmail.com I'll see what I can do.
So about 60k miles is the typical mileage when accords require timing belt replacement? I have a newer V6 with about 30k miles and I thought I wouldn't have to do it until around 100k miles.
I have a copy of the service manual and it has two different intervals for timing belt replacement, one for most areas of the U.S. as far as weather is concerned, and one is for areas like Canada and Alaska, where the temperature swing is extreme and it gets really cold. In normal service (lower 48 and HI), it's 100,000 miles, and for Canada/AK it's 60,000 miles. They say "check the water pump" in the manual, but trust me, you're in there anyway, just replace it. Thanks for stopping by!
When I bought my 07 Accord, I was told every 80k. They honestly way overestimate the frequency in which they need to be replaced. You should be fine with 100k.
Thanks for this informative video. I have a 2007 accord v6 and while i was driving about 20 mph my car died and wouldn't start. I check and found my timing belt snaped. Also i notice there was coolant on the front sprocket. Could this mean my motor is blown? And how would coolant get in there? Thank's
Yeah, I had heard about the weighted socket from some other viewers, they were not around when I worked for Honda. I just used what I had at home at the time, but when I was at the truck shop (we also did automotive work) I did a few timing belts and the 3/4" impact didn't even flinch :)
Hopefully the video was of some use for you at least - that was part of the reason I wanted to put it out was for people who would sublet it but want to know what was involved.
You don’t have to support the lower bottom when taking off the Mount I work for Honda I usually usually loosen then 17mm bolt in the mount and then loosen both 14mm bolts on the bracket
Yeah, definitely if you were using that special thick walled socket, it certainly wouldn't hurt. The thing is that you'd still need the special tool if you were cracking it loose manually, and also for reinstallation in order to torque it to spec. For gunning the damper bolt off I definitely agree, though.
Anyone doing this, before putting the timing belt on after changing the waterpump put coolant in the radiator right then to see if it is leaking. I wish I thought of that earlier because I have everything in and put together then put coolant in and see it leaking from the timing cover. So now I have to take it all apart again to see why
Oh man, that sucks . . . I wonder if the little formed gasket behind the water pump got folded or something. I hear you, I hate having to take stuff apart twice.
Hello sir. This video was INCREDIBLE in walking me through the job. After I put everything back, some problems arose that weren't there before, and I was hoping you could tell me where I might've went wrong. My 07 Accord is now chirping, smoking, and there's also a cranking sound when I took it for a test drive. Can you help?
That's odd, if everything was reinstalled properly it should have just worked. Did you crank the engine over a couple times by hand with the new belt in place to ensure the marks were all still lining up from the sprockets to the engine and that the idler, tensioner, and water pump turned freely? Chirping and smoking are not a normal outcome, where is the smoke coming from? You might need to pop back under the timing cover and have another look to ensure everything is still where it should be. If you used aftermarket parts you may even have faulty parts, I am not sure what the issue would be off the top of my head.
@@EverettsWorkshop hmm. When I was doing the job the first time, all the timing marks lined up perfectly, but the new belt had almost no slack to be taken up by the tensioner. Also, the smoking only comes from when the serpentine belt has been installed again. I took the serpentine belt off, and let the car run and sure enough the chirping and smoking went away, but the grinding sound was still very strong. I just took off the timing belt covers, and I'm about to see if anything went wrong under there with the car running.
The special Honda crank bolt tool can be rented from places like Autozone or O'Reilly autoparts for free. You just give them a deposit and you can borrow the tool overnight. To get the bolt off it is better to use the Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda ($27 on Amazon). There are other videos that show how easy it is to get that bolt off using this supersocket.
That would be cool if you live in the U.S., for sure, as that special tool is totally required to hold the crank pulley. I'm not sure if Canadian Tire here in Canada does that for this tool, but I ordered my tool off eBay for about CDN$23, so it was cheap enough for me in case I do another one. As for that socket, we never used them at the dealer so I wasn't looking for a special socket for it - we had a trick for it because the car was on a hoist and we had more access. It is CDN$45 here, and if I can use the 3/4" ratchet to crack the bolt loose I'd rather save the money at this point. I saw the videos you mentioned, and will say that it looks like the socket definitely works, so if I end up working on more Hondas again I would definitely consider getting one! Thanks for coming by and sharing!
@@EverettsWorkshop I am going to do this maintenance repair on my Acura TL next week. I have your video, other Acura videos and the Acura service manual as my guide. The good thing is I have a tv with Fire stick in my garage so I can pause your video when I need to. Nice video and should be a big help.
Thanks for the kind words, glad it could be of use for you. And thanks for the heads up on the special socket too, as I say we never used them at the dealer so it wasn't even on the radar. That's one of the fun things about the RU-vid community, it's cool to share ideas with people from around the world!
Very informative video- can you describe the sockets used to remove the waterpump bolts? They look like some kind of ball drive sockets that I have never seen before.
Thanks Bill, glad you could find the video useful! I have a set of 1/4" swivel sockets, they are very handy. They have a universal joint built into each individual socket between the square drive and the female hex that goes on the bolt.
Loved the video it's helping me a lot. Here's my question. My car is a 2007 also. I noticed a small amount of oil around the crankshaft seal. Should I replace this and will I have to reset the crank position sensor if I do
Great video. I'm currently looking at purchasing a 2004 Accord with 166k on it. Owner took to shop and was told the oil pump seals need replacing. How can you tell this? What are the symptoms? The shop quote was $2200 to do this job. Thanks in advance!
Hi Randy, I'm sorry but without seeing the car it would be hard to tell if the oil pump housing seal was indeed the issue at hand. If it is, the oil pan has to come off too, so more labor, and depending on shop rates, which parts are done, dealer vs independent, hard to tell. Chances are the whole front of the engine is soaked, so a shampoo, short drive and inspection would be first thought. However, it it is a purchase consideration it comes down to how much you want to invest in it. First thing is to ensure that the diagnosis from that shop is at least valid before proceeding, and to know your comfort level of risk on a used car with issues.
Thank you KuangTu, and it is ok to sub this job to a garage if you do not feel up for it. My intent was to either give some help to anyone doing it himself/herself or at least to give an idea of what is involved for those who chose not to do it themselves. At least this way you know what the technician is up to during the job. Thanks for coming by!
Thanks, glad you could find it useful! The valve adjustment is a separate operation. I did not do it on my father-in-law's car when the timing belt was done but it will be due in the near future. If I have the time to do it then I might take a video of that one as well.
Just so everyone knows, you can use that tool that goes on the crank pulley and wedge a wrench somewhere where it can't move, then you can brake the crank pulley loose with the starter you just have to chirp the key don't actually start it.
That is true, Gav, on these engines. I have never done it myself as we had long snipes at the dealer I used to work at, and where I was working last I used my 3/4" impact gun to spin the crank pulley bolt out. This one was just me at home with home tools though, so I had to use the 3/4" ratchet and a snipe. The thing I would be concerned about mentioning it in a video would be having someone thinking that their older Honda 4-cylinder could be cracked loose in the same manner. They ran CCW so that would be a recipe for disaster. You are correct though on the V6's, it can work if you're careful to loosen them that way. You'll still need the tool to hold the pulley for torquing it up afterward though.
Great tutorial, unfortunately I didn’t pay attention to the timing marks close enough and ruined my engine. all my fault, if I had watched closer it would have been ok. Thanks for the video and to anyone doing the job: TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS. That’s how I found my fault!
Wow man, that sucks . . . But yes, that's very good advice, I should have mentioned that in the video as well. With how common smart phones are now that will take decent pictures, they're excellent to use as visual note taking devices.
Thanks for coming by, I'm glad it could be of some use to you. Overall, it was about 6 hours of work time, from rolling it in to parking it in the driveway with the engine running to purge the air from the coolant. That being said, part of that time was moving cameras & lights around, attending to my infant son, cleaning up spilled coolant on the floor, etc. So, you would probably do it faster if all you were doing was the belt and pump without distractions. Definitely a decent weekend project.
Everett's Workshop Can an experienced mechanic do this job in 4 hours flat? I just burnt my pocket paying for a starter when I could have easily got the same for 1/3rd of the cost. I am all for the job being done by ASE mechanics but the parts’ cost must be realistic instead of charging 3 times more with no rhyme or reason for the price.
@@EverettsWorkshop do you think it's ok to just do my belt? I bought a kit with all of it but it's a cheap knock off crap. So I bought the REAL Honda belt from Honda. My water pump and pullies are working fine, could I get away with just the belt?
World Peace yea i paid a autozone guy to replace my starter took him about 15 mins. when i honda was going to charge me about $500 the autozone guy did it for free but i gave him $100 for his time. my girlfriend also brought her BMW to the shop they wanted $800+ after they gave her discount of $165. she declined and when she showed me the paperwork. the parts cost $199.99. i started researching the problem because i have no idea about BMW. after two days of research after work i figured it out. bought the parts next day i was at work and told her to bring her car over during my lunch break. i fixed these problem and took it for a test drive and came back before my lunch was over. they were charging her 2 hour labor. after the parts $600+ for labor on a job that takes 30 mins even if it’s 1 hour $600 plus is still ridiculous. they even stole her hat that was in the car smh.
Is that a special torque wrench that does degrees. I was thinking you would torque the bolt and then turn it 60* but it looked like you torqued it twice possibly with two different settings. You made a very informative video making it look doable. I have a 98 3.0l but it looks like the same process minus the serpentine belt. I opted out of the water pump replacement when I had the timing belt done the first time and the bearing just went out on it yesterday. Thanks.
It is just a standard torque wrench, but I like to hear the click twice just for personal preference. It is not torque to angle but just a tight bolt. Your 98 will have a very similar engine as far as the timing belt procedure is concerned, and you will need the special holding tool as well. When I was at Honda, and even on the few I did after leaving there, water pump replacement was standard as the cost of a pump versus going in again made replacement a feasible option. Thanks for coming by!
Everett, thank you for your help. I have a question. I have an alldatadiy subscription and with your video I have taken off and replaced my timing belt/water pump. In the alldata diagrams, it shows the timing marks lining up to cylinder 1 on the front head...but mine is actually marked at 5. The other peculiar thing is that my harmonic balancer is marked with a white dot that is opposite the arrow on the lower timing belt cover. When it is uncovered...the snout lines straight up and down, and the marks are in the right spot according to the back covers..but I can't change the fact that the 5th cylinder is marked...everything lines up and I used the trick to mark the old belt, and replaced it exactly as you showed in the video. Took in through several revolutions by hand and it feels exactly the same as the old belt did on there....Why is marked on cylinder 5 and not 1? I'm going to fire it today I'm confident it will run since it ran that way before....but it's a little unnerving.. Thanks for all your help.
Hi Robert, I just looked in the service manual I have for my father-in-law's car and the number 5 mark is 180 degrees from the number 1 mark on the cam pulley - so, given that, as long as you marked your belts and counted teeth to match on the new belt, and did not rotate the crank or cams, you should be ok. It just got changed TDC on exhaust stroke #1, not compression stroke. Glad I could be of some help, thanks for coming by!
@@EverettsWorkshop Thanks.. I did indeed do all those things you mentioned, and it's running like a champ...great advice, thanks so much for taking the time.
Thanks Rauli, I generally won't run a vehicle in the shop very long with a closed door - I very much understand the dangers of CO and would rather not get sick from it.
Thanks for the video. Can you please share your experience about how to prevent front and rear spockets jump on its own after you removed the hydraulic tensioner? I've read comments here and there on different videos to make sure to align TDC mark like you did; however, when the hydraulic tensioner was removed, there would be a chance that those sprockets would jump on their own and out of alignment with TDC. Thanks.
Hi Tera, I know what you mean about the camshaft "jump" - biggest thing is to make sure you have the engine at TDC #1 and make sure you've marked the belt to the cam and crank sprockets. If the cams move on their own after that then you can still use a socket on the cam sprocket retaining bolt to turn it back into timed position.
