This is a channel in which I'd like to share some of the various projects that keep me busy, such as odd machining jobs for friends, making homemade tools, various mechanical repairs and even some novice playing with electronics. I hope that you find what we do here in the shop interesting and I will share the good parts. I'll also share some of my mistakes and what I learn from them!
The plan at this point is for video postings as time allows because, being a husband and stay at home dad of a toddler, getting shop time can be a challenge. As well, the production quality will improve as I get better gear over time.
Hello Thank you for your biutifull video. Ihave a question?: Exactly 17:00 time of video, What's wrong if it has a large radius instead of being flat? Because ithink will be biutifull. I’m waiting for your response because Iwill make one. I’m watching your videos from Austria 🇦🇹 Best regards sina
I never use a ratcheting wrench as breaker bar. Asking to destroy it. Otherwise great video! I snapped a 1/2 in drive breaker bar trying to pull that crank bolt off. This was after heating bolt with propane torch and pounding on it. Also tried using pneumatic impact wrench as you did. Still no luck. Then the neighbor kid came over and broke it loose with a Milwaukee 18V electric impact gun. Gotta be that vibrating action or something. I'm still sore from trying to break that loose and that was yesterday afternoon! 62 years old so probably why!
Thank you for showing the part number, the aftermarket looks slightly different from the original. I don't think I would have found it without this video. Aftermarket is coming up PTA1285 for anyone looking.
This was great but I screwed my timing up on pulley I was supposed to leave finger tight loose. I couldnt turn the bolt on the single idler pully more than 3 turns but it looked like your screwed in almost all the way. I mimicked how far you put the bolt in but apparently it was too far in (I used a ratchet) when putting the belt on it was too tight and caused the rear cam to jump a notch forward. Hopefully anyone reading this realizes how vital not tightening that pulley more than 2 or three turns in is until after the belt is on. I have not found a video on youtube showing me how to set the timing w the cams yet so boat anchor 2024!!!!
Thank you so much for posting this! I frequently have to replace things on my 2004 Infiniti i35 and the radiator was leaking. I bought the part online and was able to install it by myself with your video!! Very thorough and easy to follow along
I have the same car exactly and am attempting this tonight. You’re the MAN! Should I put thread lock on the crank bolt? I heard oil on it before inserting was a good idea
Make the tool holder L-shaped and place the spindle such that the drill chuck is next to the tool post. This gives more space for longer drills or larger dia. work pieces when cross drilling. Also make the spindle easily reversible so that this tool can be used for axial and cross drilling. Mounting a motor on the spindle makes it self contained. I use windshield wiper motors for this with a 3:1 toothed belt reduction. Gears may also be used. Windshield wiper motors are incredibly robust and powerful. I run mine with up to 32 VDC from a power supply built for this purpose. The current can go up to 30 Amperes at this Voltage! If you need a larger cross hole than this tool will drill, simply drill as large as possible and use that hole to line it up with that drillbit in the drill press. Clamp securely ans switch to the required drill size. I used small taper roller bearings for my tool, which made it stiff an robust and suitable for small milling jobs in the lathe such as key ways. Lathe spindle needs secure clamping!
Great, great tutoring video. Despite the luck of light (would be better to do it at daytime), somehow you managed to show everything clear and straight forward. I was a bit warried, but after watching your video, I am filling very confident and next week I am going to work on my daughter's Corolla 2009 (150 000 miles) In addition to Water pump replacement, I will change the thermostat and Serpentine drive belt, lower and upper radiator's pipes, engine coolant pipe and radiator draining petcock, plus replacing all coolant. I would only add one suggestion to make the job even easier - take off passenger's side tire and under fender plastic covering to make more space and easy access to the bottom bolts of Water pump. Could you provide torques if they are available.
Hi Alex, we still needed the commercial tool for installing and swaging the new cups, so that would still be needed. As far as making more of these, the issue is that I'm not really a commercial outfit and most of my time lately is spent either on work-related or child-related stuff. Thanks for coming by!
Hi Harold, sorry for the late reply. It kind of feels weird doing videos again after so long, kept forgetting about certain things like making sure stuff is in frame. Hopefully I can get time to do more soon. It was good to see your face on the tube again the other day too!
Lol, thanks! Honestly, I do have a knob that a viewer gave me a while back but the mill needs some other TLC as well so I'll probably just do it all up, switch and all, at once. 😁
This is true - it is possible to reach around the alternator but I find it more cumbersome. As the belt is off anyway I prefer to take the extra 5 minutes and pull it out just to make more clearance. You are correct though, it's just my preference to do it this way 🙂
@EverettsWorkshop there's a big difference between a mechanic and a technician. You Sir are a technician. It's like a nurse vs. A doctor. Removing the alternator is a no Brainerd. Keep you from busting your knuckles and seeing the water pump placement.
@@seyo4593 you obviously have zero manual dexterity if you cannot maneuver your hands in between a few inches to loosen five bolts removing the water pump! You’re the kind of guy that would remove the engine just to change out spark plugs.
Nice mill work Everett. I am a firm believer that precision depends on many factors, and since that surface didn’t require a gasket fit, it was good enough. I’m not sure who laid down the beads of aluminum, but it looked like they knew what they were doing since we didn’t see any voids/ inclusions.
The void was hogged out and welded by my good friend Taylor at work. And yes, although he does not have a ticket he has a definite talent for welding. WAY better than mine, lol!
Hi Everett! Long time no see! Not your fault, though it's you know whose tube lol it must be eighteen months since I've had any notifications come up for your channel and this just popped up now so I'm back! Last time I saw you, you were clean shaven, now you've got a beard on the way to your chest! So that shows how long it's been. I'll have to start looking through your back catalogue and watch your vids over the next few weeks. My problem is that I'm subscribed to a great many channels and if you miss a few the RU-vid bloody algorithm assumes you no longer want to watch and stops notifying you even if you have got the bell for all ticked. Anyway that was a pretty good job on that casting given the size of it and the size of your mill. Well done sir!
All good, thanks for coming back! In all fairness I did kind of evaporate for a year so the algorithm doesn't like that either. Hopefully more can be filmed this year. And thanks for the kind words, I'm not super happy with the surface finish but it's definitely functional!
Awesome repair! Was it necessary to mill the weld off the top nonflange area? Leaving it would make it stronger. But I don't know if it would interfere with something.
Thanks Danny! It would not have necessarily been required, but I think it looked better by doing that. Once the engine is assembled and painted it should be almost an invisible repair at that point.
Thanks Greg! Yeah, an attachment like that might have gotten low enough to do that one face, but guess I'll have to watch eBay more closely, lol. Honestly a horizontal mill would be cool but I'd have to rearrange the shop again 😁
I had thought about that, but especially with the riser block under the ram, it would be hard to get the housing high enough. Thanks for the kind words!
Good one Mate . I see that housing still has the early type seal , wait until you come across the one piece ones . They are a real nightmare ! Yout big TV looks good !!!
Lol, that dude with the beard in the screen behind me, you mean? That's just the monitor, I actually have a big screen TV on the wall that's connected to the PC too. I have not had to deal with any nasty CAT crank seals yet, the ones I have deal with had the wear sleeve and used the special CAT tool to install them. We actually have that tool at the shop for the 3406/C15 series but I can imagine those would be a pain without the proper tool. Good to hear from you again, I've been catching up on your videos too, I love how your shop came together.
Thanks Matty, I'm thankful to be able to get out there again. I'm hoping it can be more often now, especially as I'm hoping to do more working from home. We'll see. Good to hear from you again!
I don't think it's a national government thing, more just the costs of everything here in Canada in importing from the U.S. Things like the exchange rate, sales tax, duty, and freight. We can get stuff, it's just pricier here.
Hey Tony! I would love to get one but getting her car in would be a challenge after, lol. But who knows, if one gets a deal, one will make space, your efficient use of space is prime example!
Lol, fair enough 😁 The mill needs some TLC and so there will be a video or two on how it gets spruced up in the near future here. At that point it will be re-knobbed, lol.
Thanks Todd, it was interesting trying to get back into filming and remembering to think through things again. Like not attaching an indicator base to a moving part, lol.
