2007 Nissan Frontier Timing Chain Replacement - 4.0L 

how much would you charge

Actually it calls for 7 hours on alldata 👍

Doing it correctly with the level of cleaning is probably 11 hours. Always do it right the first time. Purchase ALL the parts and even extra bolts and orings. What you do not use can be returned.

@@jdantigua1999 and thats if you have done one before... first time will take you about 15hrs maybe.

I have that socket my bolt will not move?

He kicked its ass!

right it's like after you are physically exhausted, you must then use your mind intensely to not put everything back together wrong and make matters even worse, then do all the leg work to get to the fix, and not changing the oil gallery gaskets, so shits even more aggravating. I'd need no less than two days to do this properly, twelve hours each day, taking my time not to flub shit up

I'm pretty good w taking shit apart and being able to put it back correctly. I've also done many car repairs even pulled and swapped a motor once but this looks overwhelming

Doing this job at work rn can confirm this is a nightmare

​@@steviewhite479 do you have a before video of the noises it was making

@@steviewhite479y dad passed away as he was putting it back together, he only got to put the variable cam sprockets on so I gotta rearm the rest of the engine off of just this video lolll

Losen the tensioner

Have tool I have used impact breaker bar 3ft cheater and the bolt wins

just placed this $140 tool in the spot at flywheel trap door opening. Fit perfect and used breaker bar without any big struggles.

if you are doing all that work with an engine with that many miles, its not worth it.. just get a rebuilt engine.

most people don't take the valve covers off but you need to if you're replacing the secondary tensioners (not just the plastic shoes) as well as the front cam bracket.

What is the correct pressure piston number 1. To take off timing chain

Same exact truck here. How did it go? Anything I should know?

passenger side is number 1, rotate til compression stroke, I put a wooden dowel rod on top of piston

it doesn't stretch enough to start flapping... with the chain stays its impossible for that.. but the chain stays or secondary tensioner shoes might be broken causing noise... if you aren't sure if it has to be done, then do it for peace of mind. if that chain breaks, your engine is done.

well if you have to do it then you have to do it or have someone do it for you, or buy a new one! My slow behind gets this done in about 25 hours on the weekend

I just marked mine and put it back in the same way once I am done changing the timing chain, IDK how alldata said it should be done in 7 hours, I started on Friday afternoon and finished it on Sunday early evening, more like 20-30 hours job for me!

its 10hrs or 11 in the book for time...first time will take you a lot longer. getting it timed right is the most crucial part.

Might try this

I'm literally about to do this exact job myself on my Xterra with the same motor Friday over the long weekend. So I found this on the Xterra forum: www.thenewx.org/threads/trying-to-verify-tdc-on-gen2.101105/page-2 it looks like the mark is on the idler pulley bracket.

@@madscientistdan Well, I'm about to re-do my recently purchased 05 Pathfinder LE 220k miles (I also own an 07 Xterra 225k miles) because the engine, which started right up, has a definite shudder at idle after the first attempt. I am still investigating but I think my issue is using the 11 o'clock TDC mark on the fan bracket suggested in this video but then using the FSM markings shown in another video to install the secondary chain sprockets. Since the FSM uses the water cover pump mark at about 1 o'clock, the installation of the cam sprockets would be a few teeth off in the clockwise direction. I'm doing some investigating today and will post any updates here. I think the most important point is to be consistent in how you install the chains and sprockets based on which TDC mark you use. The FSM may be using the water pump cover mark simply because it is a location that is stable for the cam sprockets. i.e. - the cams won't jump on you. Also, I submitted and purchased the flywheel locking tool. Someone should definitely put together a nice special tool kit for this job and share it with the 4.0 community. Maybe someone already has.

Thanks! I wonder if using the TDC indicator mark in the FSM and permanent marker on sprockets and some other stable location for marks is fine? I also bought the flywheel tool to keep things locked and will use the chains in place when loosening and torquing the cam sprockets.

Also I thought I read someone had reported it doesn’t feel like it’s at TDC when removing the spark plug and checking compression if using the FSM mark which may hint that TDC is at the bracket indicator as shown in this video.

Emergency I need to know to get back to work

@@dominicwhite6529 are you still working on your emergency? I think I know how to... do you still want to know?

I know of the bolt of which you speak, and appreciate that tip.

Its way easier to line up all the marks before removal.

Technically you don't have to, if you don't mind getting doused with oil all over the place when you disassemble it!

he's from the south...

all chains will go bad eventually, if you are on 200k miles and over, you are on borrowed times depending on how you drive your vehicle. Granted some will do ok until 500k, but eventually you will have to change it if you want to keep driving it

Hahahahaha! Dude ,u can do it!!

I’m a newbie is it hard to reset the tensioner?

No you do not. There is a little cover over the water pump you can change it without taking the timing cover off.

Run it until it snaps and then drop in a new engine. The v6 isn't too expensive. The 2.5 is 4k though. I'm working on rebuilding a 2.5 currently.

@@inoahmann7542 Good Idea. Could buy a low mileage engine from a junked vehicle and call it a day.

these are actually some of the better motors

You want your money back? Dude was generous enough to do this. Go read a book.

The idler pulley bolt goes all the way into the block. That needed to be removed first. Look closely you’ll see it gone after the break in footage.

Dude you probably one of the crooks that works on peoples shit and tell them it was there transmission and it was only a connector don’t get mad he is showing the tricks of the trade loser it’s a good video better than most I watch sorry your a shade tree mechanic if that’s all you could find wrong with his video then don’t understand why you even wasted your breath

Always one asshole. Here he is. Make your own video and be sure not to skip that part

@@jondaniell5481 Yes I'd like a refund please