*Thank you* for the clear and correct voice-over. It's excruciating to sit and listen to the "ums" and "uhs" and "This is different on my other car" that some people unwittingly put in.
what I did for the retainers on the subframe bolts, I took a paint marker and made a small mark at the same spot on each retainer and the subframe, used different colors, but now I knew the orientation for reinstall. Great video.
Well done video. Best I've seen for this job on this car. Loved the little tips about aligning bolts with pin punch and pry bar. Also the recommendation to replace the whole control arm rather than mess with the bushing and a ball joint sometime later. (Which has to have the rivets drilled out and replaced by bolts).
I did this repair and between 2 people the rear retaining bolt reinstall took close to 4 hrs to install. This video is a great guide but be aware there can be issues that are unforeseen when doing car repairs. In my case the housing that retained the rear portion of the control arm was under great tension. The tension would not allow me to enter the bolt at 90 degrees. Through some sweat and curse words i was able to bang it into place. Always have a back up plan in place aka a tow truck rental and a knowledgeable mechanic as a back up if you run into trouble. I followed this video to the letter and it was a great help.
Great video, thanks for the step by step. The only detail I found was that all the hardware on my car was standard sizes. For anyone watching just check the bolts sizes mine were definitely not metric, so use standard if needed to keep the bolts from getting damaged. Thanks again for this video.
Awesome video did you ever replace shocks or struts before this mileage point I'm at one76,000And about to do new discs pads struts and sway bar links and bushings in the front this is without any inspection it has a clunk and fairly loose suspension but really not too bad
do you think it would be a good idea after all the bolts are in, not torqued down yet, but to put a jack under the control arm and lift it until the vehicle is barely off the jackstand and then do the final torque?
I followed the instructions that I had to the letter, and it didn’t mention doing this anywhere. I don’t think it would be necessary though, considering the bushings have a metal sleeve.
The bolt in the bushing won't come out I unscrew it but can't seem to pull it out pls help I used WD40 I think I need to hit it with a hammer somewhere.
So I bought ball joints thinking the ball joint it self was making the noise. Is there any way I can buy the control arm without the ball join already assembled?
