2008-2016 Honda CBR1000rr Fireblade Air Filter Change 

No worries, glad you found it useful!

Ahhh that makes more sense. Mine wouldn't lift too far hence the wrangling 😂 may have been the overflow lines come to think of it...

Glad you found it useful!

Thanks mate! I try to do it as and when needed so brakes may be the next one 👍

Nice! Hope all goes well, mate 🙏 👍

That's a good shout to be fair, I'll give it a shot next time

#toolbox-wanker 😂😂 glad it helped 👍

Hey, glad it hoped you in part of the process. I don't have a video for it, but from what I understand you need to replace the whole module that's in the bottom of the fuel tank as the filter is built into it.

@@kaiblebasha thank you very much for the help and your quick answer!

Hey, yeah I think that's the case mate. Pretty sure after that then you can get to the cylinder head / area. Better than dropping the engine out I suppose...

I reckon about an hour and a half doing it with the camera in the way. Normally an hour or less 👍

No probs mate.

Its the R&G tail tidy mate 👍

@@kaiblebasha nice, just ordered one for my 2015 Repsol

Nice! Should tidy it up a lot. They're good quality too, I normally use mine as an anchor for straps when touring.

Honda colour name is Candy Glory Red, the colour code is R-101C-U

Appreciate it bud 👍

You might need a new front loom as well as the fairing kit from a bit of research.

@@kaiblebasha hi! Thanks! what sort of front loom? The headlight wiring harness? I'll message and ask AUMOTOR on their 2008-2011 conversion to 2012+ fairing kit.. they sell fairings aswell for all bikes basically same as every other fairing sites. Custom paint/theme etc.. Thanks.

@@Jason.cbr1000rr yeah I think it's that, I'd need to go digging again, I think the later version has a different headlight connector, I could be wrong though. Depends if you're changing the lights as well I suppose.

Yep 👍 They're 108mm fitment Brembo M4 monoblocks. I got them from www.bikehps.co.uk but you may need to get them elsewhere. They're awesome and easy to maintain. I'd recommend getting a master cylinder to go with them All in maybe you're looking at £650-£700

@@kaiblebasha awesome thank you for replying i will look into it definitely

@@kaiblebasha one more question, stock rotors? thanks

@@1kJ335 yep, mine are stock and they're all good. Your brembos may come with spacers as well, might be worth checking where the brake pad material meets the brake rotor when installed. Currently I don't use the spacers as the pads were developing a lip after about 100 miles as the top was overhanging the edge of the rotor.

Hey, this might have been caused by a few things, so you may need to Google. Good areas to start are checking the spark plugs and boots as something could have come loose. If one is loose it might cut out. Also check your airbox and air intakes as you may be getting too much air that way. Does it cut out under about 90% throttle?

@@kaiblebasha it started after coming down hard after a power wheelie it died and I jus started it back up no problem so I assumed the engine jus didn’t like the jolt. But yeah now when I twist the throttle past half it cuts the engine. It seems to be running fine if I baby it but tomorrow I’m gonna take the tank partway off like you showed in the video and check air box and intakes. Hopefully it’s jus something loose. It’s got cheap aftermarket plastics that came on the bike so I’m wondering if it’s something simple

@@billytoussaint7267 with any luck you've just knocked a coil pack loose. Which may be rattling it's way out when the engine revs higher (due to vibration). Either that or maybe the plastics are causing air to get in from somewhere else. Does it cut out if you rev it while standing still in neutral?

@@kaiblebasha nope. Plastics are pretty shit tho. Aftermarket Chinese plastics and front end is a little sloppy around the air ducts

@@kaiblebasha it’s only dying when the engine is under a load. I can rev bomb w the clutch in