2008 - 2016 Honda Start Rattle , VTC actuator fix 

The 5-star torx bit set I used amzn.to/3e1xvlF

Thanks so much

The spring isn’t available anymore. Is there another brand or link u recommend?

@@wmi5914 working on a kit at the moment, but Amazon should have it back in stock in a few days

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052I checked again and it’s still unavailable. ONE YEAR LATER

Hi. Since you have done this modification, you other issues came up? Thanks

Hey @dmcosta, What happened since then? Did you do it? Did that fix the rattling sound?

Hi. Where did you buy the new spring? Thanks

Where do you get the new spring?

i also want to know

Где купил пружину? Какой номер пружины?

Did it fix it on first start up? Or second

What vehicle did you attempt this on?

@@AmritBanks 2009 Acura TSX 2.4l

Hi. No other sounds or issues after that fix? Thanks

Some models you might have to trim the spring a few coils as some mentioned in the comment section. You can use a wire cutter.

Did you have to have the motor at top dead center?

Sent an email to you

You're very welcome! Thanks

What is the updated part number?

Since your pin/plunger was broken, your rattle happened every single time you started the engine then, right?

Same here man maybe 15 miles i lost 2 quarts 2011 crv 105k miles no leaks from what i can tell

Any update on this issue ?

@@dodgers411 not a mechanic but it has no leak it’s probably burning that oil

@@Jvstin best to not think about it

The 2.4s will burn some oil when they get up in miles. I just topped off one that was 2.5 quarts low yesterday.

You’re welcome

What kind of sprin is it or where can I buy it?

Happened to me replaced the Vtc actuator now getting p0341 code timing chain is now stretched

​@@markstandley9486 must've jumped a tooth at some point. Did you check timing after by rotating crankshaft 360° to tdc?

@@uenragedbro yeah done been timed many times all line up but the 2 in the middle. P0341 code is showing as well as traction control

After the first start you should be good to go

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 was not good to go. This spring “fix” caused the car to throw a p0341 code. The only thing that actually fixed the rattle was the replacement of the actual VTC

Something must’ve went wrong because I just did it to another 2012 crv this week and all was good.

And the car wasn’t in dead top, I rotated it with the 17 side wrench to remove the screws

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 maybe my VTC was too far gone. Idk but you’re already half way there with this quick fix might as well replace the whole unit. All I know is that I did not have a camshaft check engine code until after I put the replacement spring in. And the noise still existed. After replacing the VTC the noise is gone along with the check engine code

Glad it helped, I’m here for any questions if anything.

Made a video

How did you tale it aparte of you dont have the corrector 5 p0int(star bit)..

@@bigE35094 NAPA sells the 5 star bit

Hi Joseph, send me a email at AR.mechanic96@gmail.com

So then the vtc actuator wasn’t your problem

It was the probably. Spring stopped the noise but through a check engine light.

@@josephroyer9532 so it stopped the sound but now you have a check engine? Did you double check the hoses and connectors?

vtc strainer screen pluged

Sorry to hear that, I will make a video on how to remove the bolts without any special tools soon.

I used vice grips...and got new 10mm bolts

@@evilways5387 That's great! I've always ended up with rounded bolt heads and, given the location, didn't want to take that chance.

What size were the new bolts you bought?if you remember please.

Thanks for the vid, i have a question. Can i use any spring with these specs or it need to be made froma certain material. Thanks!

Really good video. Just to confirm, 7/32" outside diameter - 1-3/8" length and gauge 028

@@LMX_27 mine is of steel

@@memmzald3378 yes you can go with .027-028 I went with stiffer because it’s a part that softens with the heat and time

Is it ok to use the .028 gauge instead of the .025?

You can communicate through Ar.mechanic96@gmail.com

I have the same issue, what did he quote you for a job like this?

The bolts stripped out using the correct torx bit. I will try this method with the vice grip. Pray for me bro.

Dude, I can't tell you how much easier it was using your method with vice-grips. Thanks bro.

Thanks, and it depends. I would clean the vtec screen filter that’s by the tensioner pulley. And the vtec oil solenoid. And do this fix. Best of luck, AR.

link pinned

Thank you very much

Will these parts fit my 2008 Honda Accord lx-p 2.4L?

You could always get a lower rate spring but this worked for me. With no check engine or anything funny. Key is to make sure everything is put back in correctly. (Spring lined up and straight when putting everything back together

Hi, it could be the chain or chain tensioner, hopefully it isn’t the rod bearings caused by driving with low oil.

You don't need to turn the camshaft, just take note of the direction of the faceplace. Turning it is just for easier access to the spring and reduces the likelihood you drop it.

@@AmritBanks great! Appreciate it. Thank you so much.

No, I did that to have a better position to remove the bolts and not drop anything into the engine, but if doing this make sure your timing chain is not stretched or loose, because it can cause the chain to skip some teeth and you willl have to get engine back into timing. Good Luck

Pinned comment

Yes with a magnet

You’re welcome

Hi, if you want to replace the actuator you will need to loosen and remove the timing chain for the cam gears and hold timing, if you want to try the repair in the video you will not be touching the timing

Thanks for the reply will it stop the cold start rattle because I have a 2011 honda Accord coupe.

@@valentinodean4955 if it’s the actuator yes

Usually high mileage, but also from low oil.

my 2014 CRV has 67000 miles and it started doing it at 61000. My milage is great, I'm getting 38 miles/gal on longer trips

Email me, contact info on the description.

Ar.mechanic96@gmail.com, I’m not in NY but I can possibly make it happen.

how are you from Manhattan?

Hi. Many just use the actual spring in place. They stretch it up a bit and put it back. Let me know how yours went. Thanks

Dealing with the same problems

Whole actuator I heard I got the same problem

will be putting a link up soon

i would also like to know this

Worked on a 2012 CRV

Hi, I’m Working on the kit, should be available very soon.

Not sure, will update Soon

Yer a nub if you don’t know what these tools are

Yes security torx

I’ll find the size for you

@@mikemahler8894 Wondering if you have attempted yet? Want to try myself but hate getting into a job and realizing I don't have the right tools! And that part of the vid confused me as well. I figure he meant to leave those two until the others are out and then back them out evenly???

Yes should work

Good chance this could be your problem

I only have the size because I had to go searching for the right one. I bought the last ones from the place yesterday. I’m going to put together a kit for those interested.

Size is 7/32 x .028 x 1 3/8

Nope, should be fine.

You have done many this way?

@@Daniel-xq7ny Not many but stretching the spring does not increase its uncompressed force significantly so there's little to no risk. It may not even fix your issues because the spring returns to its original shape with heat. The biggest risk is dropping something into the engine while the valve cover is off. TBH you could either live with the rattle, try this fix, or replace the VTC altogether. Depending on your mileage and service history, you may have luck using an engine flush additive and fresh oil change. The VTC has tight tolerances so any gunk/debris can reduce oil flow and/or ability return to the locked position. YMMV

@@AmritBanks Asking because on my 2010 CR-V I did stretch it a little than and no more rattle on cold start. But a little tapping noise started until hot and it was the chain tensioner. Was is just coincidence?

@@Daniel-xq7ny Probably, its a 12 year old vehicle so these parts start to wear out over time.

Just spring as seen on video

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 cool! Thank you! 👍🏾

If you say so, look at the green mark on the AC line. It’s that worked for me. Thanks for your opinion though. Take care.

Hey man ever get it done? Hows the result if so

@@rjc81698 neighbor was helping me and fucked up the vtc actuator bolt by using instead of 6 edged socket, a 12 edged one. Now the bolt is pretty round and even 6 edged can't help. But get a long breaker bar, maybe a pipe to get even more leverage. The bolt is tough

I went to the store to see if they got heat coils, that's when neighbor attempted to use 12 edged socket by himself

A few good hours

No, as long as the chain never gets loose or removed.

Hi, I’m in NYC, Woodlawn area, unfortunately I don’t have a shop yet but this should definitely fix your problem on the 08 accord.

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 hey thanks for reply!! I was wondering if you could do my car as well !! I'm on brooklyn buswick area.??

@@dablackcarpi no prob, there’s a possibility that we can make something happen

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 yes!! Just let me know how?? I want to fix this ASAP..🙌how to contact you..email or something?

Email me brother

No torques as this is a fix for the part, originally you would just change the whole part. I usually just tight by hand then lightly with the ratchet, then evenly until they are all snugged plus 1/4 turn.

Sounds like no oil

I know it is late answer, but in my case chain was replaced to mitigate acceleration rattle.

Update: replace the security bolts with regular hex head bolts. If you use the ones marked 10.9 on the head, torque them down to 10 ft. lbs / 120 in. lbs and use blue threadlocker - the kind made to work on oily parts. If you use another grade of bolt, marked 8.8 for example, the torque spec will be less. You need to look up the maximum torque value for the hardware you select. The important thing is that the bolts ARE torqued to near maximum spec. These are NOT bolts you want coming undone while the engine is running!!!

Did the rattle fix with the spring-start kit?

​@@mksckumara It improved, but did not fully resolve in my case. I also worked the locking pin over with some abrasives and replaced the timing chain tensioner.

Not sure, so far works on the 4cylinder, I’ll let you know soon

Its a K24 issue

Link pinned

It's not much, but to find out, take your torque wrench and set it to 5 ft. lbs. and try to break them free. That won't work, but it's where to start, because you will try again and go up 1 ft. lb. until they break free. Whatever is the setting that broke them free is what you need to tighten them back to.

8 ft lb

Not sure

el resorte de compresión

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 you changed the Springs for stronger Springs OR larger OR the same spec... My question which is the trick

I’ll post it shortly

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 👀

$500

They do get it though

@@stinkfart697 fortunate so far 👍😏

@@vikingexpress2632 just always keep your oil topped up & you shouldn't have any troubles🤘🏻

u will

@gfriedman99 I may used to be the main seal that leaked. I only have 55k on mine it was a gem got it at 14k lol

Save it, watch it, share it! Happy you found it useful.

sorry to hear that

what would you like to see in more detail?

thanks!!

Glad you showed this though! Anytime we can fix a problem Im down!

Hi, did you replace the spring? If so, did it fix it?

Thats what worked for me, replacing the spring.

Me puedes ayudar

Did it rattle first start up...

@@Daniel-xq7ny amazon, the spring was a bit longer than the one in my tsx but i cut it to the same length

@@evilways5387 not since the fix, about 3 months ago

@@LMX_27 hi. do you have a link please?

Thanks and you’re welcome, you have no crank no start? Or crank with no start?

Mine broke free and grinded did yours?

Where did you get the spring from?

@@707Tino Lol grinded

Cmon, brad give us the update

This is exactly why I'm here. Just bought the same model a week ago. Not sure what to do.

@@crackermac5410 what I do is, when it's cold, turn the key to just engage the starter a bit, but not start the engine. I usually do this 2-3 times. If I do, it rarely makes the dreaded rattle. REALLY disappointed in Honda with this crap. Good luck.

@@brianwolfe5982 I hate buying a low mileage car and have to baby it. I’ve read so much about this and it sounds like even if you fix it it will come back. Thanks for the advice I’ll give it a try

@@crackermac5410 Yeah, I despise it too. I want to get a remote start for it, but scared to death the timing will skip or some other nonsense. I forgot to mention, the shop that I had do the repairs got the "updated" VTC from a Honda dealership, and their parts manager said the noise was normal with the new part. Yeah. Right. Really considering selling it - can probably get more than I paid for it right now. I'm at 48.5k miles.

@@brianwolfe5982 I saw one go from an individual for $18,500 with 111k so yeah you’re looking at $20k easy right now

It’s for most of the accords, crvs, 4 cylinders

I’m working on a official kit. Should be completed soon.

With that code I’ll check the timing Chain tensioner first, remove the valve cover and check for slack on the chain.

@@armechanicshelpandrepair2052 actually, you would never see slack in the chain, the tensioner takes up the slack, but the tensioner can be going bad and you'd never see anything different in the chain.

Pinned links

I just did an oil change with liqui moly engine flush, and after i put a thicker 10w40 motor oil. Since then the rattle was gone like magic! Actually did‘nt even intend to try and fix this but it somehow did no idea how🤭 my car is 2002 civic type R with just over 100k miles

If the spring doesn't stop the rattle follow this order of operations: 1. Replace your timing chain tensioner - very easy and can save your engine. K-series need these basically every 100-150K miles. 2. Verify your timing chain is not stretched while you have the valve cover off to line up cylinder #1 top dead center. You'll be doing this when you replace the timing chain tensioner anyway. If the chain is stretched, when you have the white crank pulley mark lined up the arrow on the timing cover, the notches on the cam gears won't line up. If the chain is stretched, replace it along with the tensioner. 3. Open the VTC actuator back up and remove the locking pin. When you do this, your intake cam gear will move forward. Don't panic, later you can rotate the engine forward and line the detent for pin and bolts holes back up. Only rotate clockwise - ever. Test the locking pin, it should move in and out freely with no drag or hanging up. If it does not - work the pin over with emery cloth and/or fiber abrasive polishing attachments on a rotary tool. Get the pin nice and clean, and smooth until it goes in and out of the detent in the back cover smooth and easy. Add oil to the pin when doing this. 4. Last item to check / replace - the VTEC oil control valve. If it's open when you pull it out - replace it. It should be closed.

@@jonasobletter Eh, 10w-40? How does your engine run and VTEC engages with that heavy of oil?

@@caseyalexander2244 10w40 is one of the recommended viscositys by honda for my car so theres no issues and i have been running this oil grade for a while now too works perfect

@@caseyalexander2244 If the tensioner is causing the rattle wouldn't it happen every start? For me, it only happens first start in the morning.

if its truly the VTC then you should be fine if you can deal with the sound, I heard many people who just leave it as is for years. but i could be wrong.

Info

Yes, I've done it, same procedure .