Hi Paul, we all make mistakes, maybe tired, long day, etc. You are a very honest person by sharing all footage. Thanks for you hard work and for teaching us.
also I've learned all srs connectors are either yellow or orange on all that I've tested. also all air bag stuff uses some type of double locking safety tab. no ones perfect, I like how your not afraid to point that out
We all make mistakes.. This is how we learn the knowledge of the trade. You brought back memories of my apprenticeship when you mentioned Pete had done the exploding coolant bottle trick. LOL! Nice work.
I've diagnosed many of these sensors, but never took the time to look into how they work. Good job! BTW air bag connectors are yellow. Haha. Seems these are the type of mistakes I make in front of a class.
Try. B0085 symptom 5 for a 06 chevy Impala. Switched sides like Danner did in this video and it never went one side to the other. I even disconnected the sensors in the left and right front and the B0085 symptom 5 short to voltage was still present along with 2 new codes. Replaced with a known good sensor from a Salvage yard non air bag deployment hit and still had the same codes doing the swap on the left side first with the replacement then the right side as well so the replacement and original sensors are still good. Might I also note I knew it was a complicated diagnosis prior to me switching the sensors that I even took the car to the Chevy Dealer (Stealer) paid the diagnostic fee $70+ tax. After doing the swap I approached the dealer about their bad diagnosis and they said that they just read the code. I told them I wanted to know what was wrong with the vehicle hence why I brought it to them. They said well this is one of those things where it's not flat rate but upon asking him about the diagnostic portion he said it was. I mentioned to him that they (dealer) can swap parts left and right being they're a dealer and they cake return them while all along they're not actually diagnosing the condition but rather just being a parts swapper till they get it right. By this time I'd been to the dealer once but I knew that it was a bigger problem which torqued me because I knew they were lying to me by then because I had shown them that they just guessed what it was rather than doing a correct diagnostic to begin with. I think that just wanted me to bring it back to them but what they did was create a distrust between the dealer and I and actually made me desire and push myself to learn more about this stuff on my own beyond what I already know. I get pointers from Scanner Danner in his basic case studies and say screw the dealer because there isn't much they can do that an aftermarket shop or even a guy equipped with the proper tools can't do anymore these days with a little patience and time. Impala and Monte Carlos from the mid 2000's have the same front impact sensor. This newer additional codes had all been diagnosed with the Solus Edge with the 16.2 upgrade. This makes me wonder with the sensor being removed and having new codes appear if the sensor location was properly diagnosed to begin with being that with the new codes one describes Front Impact and the short to voltage is B0085 Short to Voltage Left Front Impact Sensor I recently traded after 7 months and now have the Modis Edge with the 16.4 update which has better descriptives and definitely more code diagnostic capabilities. I love but have yet to use the 2 channel lab scope/oscilloscope and component tester as well. Once I get the hands on with the 2 channel down on the Snap On Modis I'll start using my 4 Channel PicoScope bought thru AutoNerdz.com. I know there's a huge commitment and learning curve but it's well worth it long term for repairing my own vehicles. I don't work in a shop either but rather have a big interest in diagnostics and drivability for me and helping friends
Good video Paul, have you used standard stabilant 22 ? As you know air bag systems are very sensitive to even .05 ohms. I have been using it for a while now. Let me now how it works.
very impressed that you can admit our mistakes though they are few , we all make them . but I can definitely admire somebody that can say hey I messed up when they could have just as easy edited the mistake out . keep em comin , hopin to get your premium channel soon.
well I guess mr dannner isn't perfect after all... great video none the less. is it time for a vacation yet? I can say I need one, 12 days straight and I gotta pack and move into a new house in less than 30 days.glad you weren't switching out temp sensors and continuing down the wrong path. very happy you were able to share this video with us.
I think we should call you ScopeDanner from now on. Lol. I'm looking to buy an oscilloscope now but so many options and ratings can't decide yet. Just bought your book today. As a fellow technician who hates throwing parts at vehicles I'm excited to take my diagnostic ability to the next level. And it looks like a scope will help with that. I've also had this same code it was the sensor also. I believe I did the swap trick as well. Nice to have that option with 2 sensors on these.
Works great. I personally don't mind whether the videos are short or long as the content is always superb. But having scantool/scope sharing screen with footage of what you're doing makes for some really efficient and educational vids. Keep up the great work man. Well worth the subscription. :)
before buy sensors try to check the seat belt connection at the driver side i fix this air bag warning in 2 cadillacs ,1 tahoe , 2 silverados and 1 sierra they just get that green corrotion clean it and warning ligth fix
Wow, proves you're human again! At least you didn't throw parts at it. I always recommended replacing both sensors too. The failure is water intrusion, water that lands in the bottom of the core support seeps down the bolt threads and gets trapped in the ferrule that the bolt sits in, it then freezes and cracks the housing or causes the aluminum ferrule that the bolt sits in to corrode and expand cracking the housing, then water gets in and corrodes the circuit board...game over. Briansmobile1 did a tear-down video of one of those sensors. When i replace them i goober the crap out of bolt with silicone and fill the cavity where the bolt sits so water can't seep down those threads and get trapped. Very common time of year to see these failures too, freeze thaw cycles finish them off.
Hi Paul Yes air bag plugs are yellow. Why didn't you just shove a resistor across the terminals (2.2 ohms on sensors & 3.3 ohms on seat belt pre tensioner I think from memory) if the fault clears sensor stuffed & needs replaced job done. Yes your supposed to disconnect the battery to let the capacitors discharge before working on them but to honest iv never had any problems however DO be careful shoving a multi meter or scope in there otherwise there may be a big bang my friend.
I hold that 84 is expensive for a sensor. And this fellow needs two for this Tahoe. Its no wonder small companies are popping up that reflash Air Bag Modules, ECU's, ABS modules etc. . Once the cost of the components gets up there, aftermarket companies find room to provide a service at which they can profit. It would be interesting however, to discuss the liability of aftermarket reflashers.
I was taught to always disconnect the battery when dealing with any airbag work related because they could deploy anytime. Until I saw Mr. Danner probing on those yellow wires with battery connected. Mr. ScannerDanner Im confused?
what would happen if those two wires that were being back probed on the sensor touched each other? I mean they was very close to one another and moving around quite a bit! Would it cause an airbag to go off? Also on another note I live in the UK, nearly every car I work on is diesel, do you have any videos on diesel engine? Your videos are most helpful and I am hooked on watching them. Keep up the good work.
There are other inputs involved in airbag deployment. With just the key on, anything happening on that front impact sensor is not going to deploy the bag. You wouldn't be wrong however with your concern. The only diesel engine I have to work on is my RV. There are almost no diesel cars here. But as you are finding out, a lot of my stuff is universal. Thanks!
i find it interesting that it is not a 5 volt as common with digital circuits nor 12 volt as with most ananlog circuits. it seems to be a modulated signal on a 8 volt carrier. would be intersing to expand that signal to see if it is indeed analog or if its square wave digital.
serious question. Do you think back probing all the different connectors that you do will hurt the connector integrity. The shop foreman where I work told me he doesn't like back probing if he doesn't have to because it cause problems. especially on the newer vehicles that have micro 64 connectors. I would like your take on this Scanner Danner.
I would not argue. His points are valid, but there are times where there is no choice. I've also never had a comeback after backprobing anything....ever! We do want to be careful on the newer network circuits for sure
Do you think that is a 4-20 mAmp current loop? Usually the current output maps to an analog signal but it sure looks like there is a digital signal there also.
No criticism from me, that's for sure. With all the different vehicles you see day in and day out, it's impossible to keep track of what's what. Only reason I knew those were temp sensors is because I've owned my '07 Silverado for 10 years now, and have been all around that truck front to back, and know where everything is. I bought a set of Helm Service Manuals for it the day I bought it - 4 books that stand way over a foot high. Probably loaded with misinformation too, LOL.
just did this on an 08 3500 the other day...they only have one sensor so yes all i did was unplug the sensor and jump it with my meter and watched for it to flash voltage for a split second with key on which it didn't ..the problem with mine was a plug had come unplugged by the LF wheel well..btw Mitchell doesn't show that there are 2 connectors in between the SDM and the sensor..found out it did by looking at a wiring diagram from alldata
Got the B0103 2006 Silverado. Front passenger sensor. Sensors are too expensive for these things. They know you have to have them for safety so they jack up the price.
Is it safe to unplug impact sensors with only a key off precaution, or should we pull the SIR fuse as well? You didn't cover this stuff in your book. Maybe a topic for your next revision.
There needs to be more than the input from one front impact sensor to deploy the bags. But you wouldn't be wrong in erring on the side of caution. I was not concerned with a battery disconnect or fuse. You saw the voltage drop to zero on key off on that sensor.
Frank Soliday mfrs recommend unplugging the negative battery cable and waiting a minute or two. I always do. Maybe he should take a trip to South Dakota and he can figure my short to voltage , B0085 symptom 5 on my 06 Impala. I posted the whole rundown above. It's good to finally see a airbag video or let alone talk about them as from my searches on the internet if you search the code mentioned you'll see my user name dtnel is about the only person posting about this issue the last couple years. Keep the varying airbag videos coming Danner!
great info! do you thing those cracks were from over tightening the fasteners? or manufacturer defect? BTW the specifications for those bolts are just 71 lb in!
ScannerDanner OK is good to know that.. Here in California I only see cracks on the sensors from the engine heat temperature and over tightening bolts!
JAIVS26 I'll have to check mine here in South Dakota as we get some nasty winters.Maybe they should have the metal brackets on them like the Monte Carlos and Impalas and others I'm sure that don't allow water to rest on them or it appears that way from the bracket that the sensor is mounted on.
I would suggest a review of freeze thaw theory. Aluminum tube is wicking liquid water along plastic injection mold inherent fault and corroding into excess dimensions. Seal the aluminum pass thru properly from water and no more problem. $80 buys how many little rubber washers? Be safe, use two. The grease washers sold for battery post protection is for the same inherent plastic injection mold failure point where battery acid wicks up out of the battery along the post and kills post terminals over time. It was a cure for 40 years. And then they finally moved the posts.
I use those awesome grease fabric washers for battery posts all the time now and don't have any more corrosion issues on posts that are horizontal or commonly referred to as top post batteries. I recommend them to friends, family and others each time I see the corrosion anymore either. The metal brackets which are used on alot of the other GM airbag sensors work well also. Don't know what the original intent of the metal brackets was as there's still holes thru the sensors they hold also but I never tighten them to much anyways for fear of cracking. Also I can't recall but there's a torques for anything on a car anymore these days it seems even back to the early 2000's and probably earlier as well.
tgoodm1 Get the right scan tool and they have known good wave forms. There's also other sites that have them but they require memberships as someone has to add and remove the waveforms and keep the site up. I know of a site but unless you but their package the wave forms part of the forums plus the more advanced side of the forums is $600 per year. Otherwise once you buy a certain level of PicoScope they throw a auto renewal subscription to that portion of their website. I use multiple forums along with Mitchell DIY and AllData as the information can be different from one of those sites to the other. If you need the website just PM me privately as I'm not gonna just throw it out there as I respect Danner and his followers as well. It takes a lot of work and I mean alot for what he does with all the editing.
+Dale N Thanks!!! I have a Verus, which does show what waveforms should look like, but I don't think the waveforms are vehicle specific. For example, the amperage waveform it shows for a fuel pump is an exact copy of its example voltage waveform for alternator ripple testing. And the camshaft waveforms don't seem vehicle specific either. So I just don't know how reliable they are. Maybe they are just so we can get a general idea of how the waveforms should appear. Thanks again!!!
I have a 2010 Chevy Silverado 4.8 and driver side has 2 broken wires inside the door jamb rubber boot..white and yellow stripe wire is broken and that goes to the airbag impact sensor/crash sensor inside the door panel..should I solder it or use butt connectors? Don’t want the air bag to deploy by soldering and changing the resistance?
What does the manufacture tell you to do to repair airbag wiring? I hesitate to tell you anything outside of that due to liability. I will say this, you won't change the resistance of that circuit by using either method properly.
ScannerDanner I wouldn’t hold you responsible if it did deploy..I wouldn’t think it would deploy but this is my first time running into a airbag broken wire ..I am the one doing the repairs and I am responsible for my own actions..I will solder it
@@rahrah8076 sorry for the b.s. reply. I'm just a little gun shy with airbag systems. I recently had one deploy on me. Tech tip! DO NOT unbolt and rotate an airbag module with the key on, on a system with side curtain airbags lol $1500 mistake
I've actually had the seat removed in jt Impala and the sdm disconnected and still can't find the short in the harness from the sdm to the sensor back up front. The more. think though I may need to go back and check that harness bugatti the chevy impalas has the wire for the rear window defrost that burns up in the connector in the lower right foot well by front passenger door. I'm wondering if my impalas wiring for the srs system goes thru that plug and maybe that caused the failure. I was just glad to get the rear window defrost back. that I moved on once I got that fixed. impalas are a fire waiting to happen with the window defrost for the rear window as this is highly documented from the early 2000's to the 2012 and higher I believe. GM should be held accountable for it. They get away with way to much. As a corporation you pretty much have to kill someone to get the government involved kind of like getting a working stop light in communities around different states, someone has to die then a study gets done unless someone dies quickly again but otherwise you may get that stoplight after several years. Cheers! Keep up the great videos Danner!
Where can I get good replacements? I've tried AutoZone and Amazon. Both read "incorrect component installed". Or could it be I'm doing something wrong?
one plastic cures it cracks if you catch it before the weather gets in to it just lightly coat the whole sensor with silicone to protect it and go on ihave to this a lot with those black neoprene roof pipe boots in fact if i was putting in a new sencor i would h=go ahead and coat it you may then never have the problem
haha noted. Thanks! I'm laughing because I've heard it a bunch of times now. Nothing like an audience to teach you where you went wrong. I'll never forget the yellow connectors now. Thanks again.
What...? Your taking me wrong. I'm simply pointing out that it doesn't matter what make or model your working on, its a government regulation that all related air bag wiring connectors have to be yellow for easy identification.
It does. The first two model years of mandatory air bags (93' and 94' I think), it was only a recommendation that all connectors be yellow. In 95' the color was made standard.
flow chart said amperage higher than 23 ma would flag that code. I cannot measure amperage that low with my amp clamp without a bunch of noise. Anything less than 100 ma I don't even bother with my amp clamp
