You can get it out without disconnecting anything on the intake side. Just take out the intake bolts, the two vacuum hoses and use a strap to hold it back
@@PalomboDylan no problem! Any time you deal with electrical anything it is important to disconnect the power source, obviously unless you need power to diagnose the concern.
I am getting code problems with misfires and a Honda mechanic says it's because of the aftermarket starter. A Honda starter solves the misfire problems. I already replaced the Crankshaft Sensor and it did not help.
With that being said, I generally don’t let my starter crank if it doesn’t start. I’ll let it sit and try again, it’s a pain but I won’t swap another until this one dies
@@jsinister_vq8303 You did the right thing. I replaced my OEM with an aftermarket and after a few months, crankshaft pos. sensor went bad. ( threw codes ) I've since learned you need to replace starter with OEM to avoid this. Just my experience and I'm in the process of changing back to an OEM starter and CPS. Don't know if I have to have the sensor "relearned". Waste of time and money.
I don’t have an exact set, but a standard set of metric wrenches or a socket set will be a great start. I’d get yourself a breaker bar, a set of needle nose pliers, and that’ll be a good start. If you have the funds, get a torque wrench too.
You push the wrench towards the bolt and go counterclockwise. The bolt will naturally go out and loosen up. Once you place the socket on the bolt, then you let the wrench do the job.
Not easier, it will cost less if you go from underneath to avoid discounting the air intake manifold and the throttle body gasket. No need to do the coolant lines on the throttle body either. So I'm short, save about $70 if you do the underbelly path
Looking at this because my 2011 is having those cold cranks even though the engine is warm.. then i noticed your battery is an everlast as well.. im starting to think it might be the battery..
Swapping out the battery may be a good first step, that’s what I did. It didn’t help, unfortunately. If I had to do it over, I would’ve stuck with an OEM starter or rebuilt the starter if you have the bandwidth and time. The new starter I put in was a brand new one, aftermarket, AutoZone. There is some intermittent Long starts, still technically works, doesn’t work like the original
I have the drank sensor warning code and dealer is telling me it's because my aftermarket starter is spinning the shaft differently than a factory starter and I need to start there. What do y'all think?