2008 - 2012 Honda Accord Spark Plug Replacement! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yETaiKVQqIg.html 2008 - 2012 Honda Accord 2.4L PCV Valve Replacement! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HRtoqCe5swY.html Here is how you revive 27 year old bolts… ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gJlypzeuPPc.html
Bob, I cannot thank you enough. My wife's Honda Accord (2008) wouldn't start. I checked the battery and got 12 volts using a voltmeter. The alternator was not an issue based on that data. I replaced the solenoid and had no luck starting her. I was hearing a click and that's it. I knew I had a starter issue and I was resigned to the idea of either hiring a traveling mechanic or buying ourselves a new car. We just didn't have the budget for either. I'm no mechanic, but I have worked on a diesel engine on a sailboat. Your video gave me the confidence to give this a shot. Your small instructions that were step by step, easy enough for a novice to understand, you gave me the confidence to try to save my family some money and it did. You did. It was a really big deal over here in my corner of the world to put that starter in, put everything back together with your instruction and hear her start up. Thanks again, Bob. Having a kid at home and no second car was getting stressful. You saved the day. I'm going to email you and try to get an address to send a check as a tip. Thanks again. You're a car saver and who knows... that might end up being a life saver.
Andy that's amazing! We are so glad you were able to do it using our video and save some money! Times are tough for most people right now, so any amount saved goes a long way. I appreciate the offer (the check you mentioned), but with the struggles of everyone I would much rather you keep that money for the future. Something always happens with our cars, homes, etc. If you want to do anything, the best thing we can ask for is to make sure you hit the like button and share any of our videos. That goes such a long way in helping this channel. Thanks so much for all the kind words and we are so happy you were able to save money!
Times are tough right now, I hope everyone is able to make it through this. Struggling financially puts such a strain on all of us mentally. Keep pushing through it!
This is a great step-by-step video. I am NOT mechanically inclined, but I took a gamble because I couldn't afford a mechanic. It took me about 5 hours but my 2009 Accord is now running! Great detailed instructional video. Thank you so much for posting it!
Frederick that's great news! I'm glad you were able to do it yourself and save some money. Thanks for watching and if you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out to us! 🤟
Yea it was for sure! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! Let us know what other videos you would like to see from these Honda Accords! 🤟
Thank you for actually taking the time to make a quality video, most of the videos I have watched on this have been pretty subpar. Lots of people throw out quick 5-10 minute videos and gloss over the smaller details, and it shows. When I saw this was 22 minutes I figured it would be good. Appreciate the thorough video
This is the most perfect instructional video I’ve ever watched. Done in less than three hours. One little tip is that I removed that second air intake piece that is attached to the front piece. Made getting to that bottom intake bolt much easier. Thank you so much!
Perfect video thank you. This gave me the confidence to give it a go myself after I was quoted $1200 (AUD) from Honda. Make: AUS 2008 Honda CU2 (Honda Accord Euro) Engine: K24Z3 Replacement Starter: OEX MXS364U The AUS model doesn’t have the plastic air shield at the front and the battery doesn't need to be removed. Note: -I found temporarily taping the 2 metal brackets where the throttle controller connects to the intake manifold was key because they are hard to line up when reattaching the throttle controller. -Probably best to put paper towel in the intakes to prevent "stuff" falling into the block. Took me about 1 hour to complete. Thanks again so much!!
This video was amazing. A complete step by step guide. My nephew and I were able to fix his broken down Accord in the parking lot where it died. Like Bob said, a few key tips. 1) Swivel socket is a must to get that wire terminal nut off. 2) Breaker pipe on the wrench to get that 17mm off the starter bolt. 3) Pay attention to those throttle body brackets (like he said)… we had one fall down into the compartment. Video was a lifesaver, Thank You!!!
Thank you for the detailed instructions. I’m not much of a car guy but took a shot at this and it worked perfectly. Thanks for saving me the money and hassle of getting my car to a mechanic.
Great video thanks. I did this job today. Wasnt bad at all. Only thing that took me some time was removing and reinstalling the very bottom intake bolt. All went well. Appreciate you making this video.
Wow. What an amazing detailed video. Thank you so much for sharing this. I plan on doing this repair tomorrow on my son’s Accord. Issue started with intermittent no crank/no start until it finally gave out on him. Had to have the car towed home.
@@TrickShiftGarage Just finished. Took me 3 hrs from start to finish with a few smoke breaks in between. It cranked right up. Thanks again for the awesome video and step by step.
I don't work on vehicle and the shop estimated labor $300, what a joke. Great video and guidance, step-by-step got mine replaced in 1 day; thank you! I saved $
I appreciate the set by set guide to replace a starter. And the point where bolt are located. I am recommending your video to others who are having the ae problem in the future.
Hey Gabriel, thank you so much for the kind words. We really appreciate the support and are very glad these videos help all of you. And thanks for recommending it!
This is a very good video. You explain the process very clearly and more importantly you show how to put everything back together. I will definitely be using this video as a guide when I replace my starter for my '12 Honda Accord.
This video was extremely helpful thanks. The only thing you forgot was to replace the lower bolt on the manifold. I had an extra bolt when I was done and had to rewatch the disassembly. Other than that it was great. Thanks
Whoops! Lol sorry about that. This tends to happen when I focus a lot on camera angles. Hopefully it wasn't too much of a hassle. I'll keep doing better! 😎
Like everyone else here says, great tutorial to do this well worth while fix. At minimum where I am it’s 700 up to 1100. And like most I was nervous about doing a repair myself. But thanks to you I saved myself well over $600. The only thing I would add is using a form of FME(foreign material entry) to cover and keep things from falling into any openings.
I want to thank you for the detailed video. I followed it exactly as you did and successfully was able to change my own starter! The hardest part was the 14/17mm bolts holding the starter in place. Whoever torqued those down at the factory must bench 400lb easily 🤣
EXCELLENT video, Huge Thanks. I just replaced a starter in an 09 Accord LX. Some notes that may be helpful. The air breather tube was always in the way so I unbolted it's mounting bracket from the battery tray and pushed it around as needed to get to some of the nuts/bolts. Otherwise, it was pretty much the same as you showed. Some surprises: the 12 mm nut dead center of manifold requires a thin wall socket to get to, my craftsman 1/2 drive socket was too fat. I bought an inexpensive set at harbour freight (the colorful ones). For the recessed nut on top of the starter (main power) , I ended up using a 3/8 drive with a 3" extension to get to it. I had a hard time torqueing the 14mm rear starter bolt using my 1/2 harbour freight torque wrench. I think a 3/8 torque wrench would be better. I found another video doing this job which included the torque specs which I'm including here: front starter bolt 47 ft lb rear starter bolt 33 ft lb throttle body bolts 16 ft lb manifold nuts/bolts 16 ft lb Thanks again.
You sir, are the best. I know nothing about cars but your video gave me confidence to change this out. There were a lot of socket extension/changes, a missing bolt, ect. But, my major F up was breaking the plastic on the starter that connected the the electric connection bolt...whoops. I need to bo back and tighten a few things and replace the plastic clips, but it works and sounds like a charm.
So awesome to hear that! We are glad you found this Accord Starter video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment and share your experience, Mike! We appreciate it! 🤟
Thank you so much! Followed this and it worked great. I used a torque wrench to get the starter bolts out and that helped a lot. I also didn’t disconnect the hose from the interior of the intake manifold, which worked fine for me.
Lol that's the kind of videos I love doing. It gives you all an idea of the issues you could possibly run into, while also giving you the confidence to do it yourself. Thanks for watching! 🤟
My man! What is your venmo? Seriously. I owe you at least a meal! Picked a new one up at autozone this am and swapped it after work today in the parking lot. I called a mobile guy, $125 for the showing up and $140/hr, said it was a 2hr job. Took me 2:15. You saved me $400. Blessings brotha!
Thanks for making this video, it helped a lot. My big 17mm was TIGHT too I used a deep well and a breaker bar. Put everything back together with anti-seize in case there’s a next time! Cheers!
@@TrickShiftGarage Replaced the starter yesterday, zero issues with the bolts, except for the 14mm one on top of the starter I had to remove the sensor on the left side( I believe that it was 27mm) as I have long sockets, and thanks god for the breaker bar I purchased long time ago and used only couple of times. I got the same replacement starter ( Carquest) from Advance Autoparts, ordered it online and saved 20% with promo code, and after returning the core, the total cost was something like $167 (not bad at all). Now the car sounds like brand new when turning the key ;)
I just replaced my starter following another video. Similar steps just with a few differences like removing the air intake tube, instead of removing the throttle body just disconnect some vacuum and coolant hoses from the throttle body, other than that pretty much the same. Also the other video recommend to replace the intake gaskets since you are already there so I did.
Yea there are a few ways to get around that throttle body. I decided to leave the coolant hoses together, but either way is fine. Thanks for watching Rooster! 🤟
Thanks for posting this video. I used it this afternoon to replace my starter. I had one broken manifold bolt which slowed me down and then the 17mm head bolt on the starter was damaged in the exact way yours was… perhaps it’s a manufacturing flaw.
Thanks for taking the time to comment Lee! That bolt was such a pain to get out without a strong enough electric (or air) ratchet. I was struggling mightily lol. I'm glad to hear you got it done! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Wow.. thank you for this video, you covered everything I needed to do the job, saving me some 💰 I usually just sub to Star Wars related channels, but here is a sub.. awesome video!! My car cranked right up
Jan 2024 just used this Video to help me replace my starter. I did not take off the throttle body just unhooked the tube. Did not pull out the intake just moved it to the side and was able to replace the starter.
There isn’t a lot of information about this but I’d just strongly recommend to not use an aftermarket starter. I put a new WAI starter in my Accord. Even though it looks the same, it cranks the engine at a different speed and messes with the crankshaft position sensor. It’ll take a lot more cranks to start (sometimes not even start) and drain your battery. I know OEM Honda starter is expensive, but get only that, either new or from a junkyard. I hope this helps!
I've seen a few people mention this. My buddy hasn't had an issue with his 2008 Accord, but if there is, I'll definitely make a video talking about this. To be safe, I completely agree that everyone should go with the OEM starter. Thanks for the information! 🤟
I had the same damn issue with that 12mm x 1.25 bolt (the one you referred to as 17mm), mine wasn't nearly as massed up so I was able to fix the bolt with a die and had enough room to thread a tap through the hole with a tap socket. Took about 2 hours extra with the damn bolt being messed up.
@@TrickShiftGarage any time brother!!! Just finished removing the starter on my 2012 accord your step by step instructions are golden man 🙌 saved me around 500 bucks that my local mechanic was going to charge.
Hello Shawaz! You are correct! I noticed that when I was editing and went back out to put it on. Unfortunately I had to take the intake manifold back off to get to it. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Too bad my 2012 Accord got totaled! It would’ve been cool to see more Accord stuff from you. Your Altima videos are helpful. Are you planning on replacing the lower control arms on the Altima and filming it? The bushings on those die frequently and there aren’t many good ones on RU-vid. I’d be surprised if the bushings on yours aren’t shot (if they’re the original).
Thanks Bang! No plans to replace the lower control arms currently but we'll definitely make a video of it when the time comes. I do hear a subtle knock while driving, so wouldn't be surprised it was those bushings going up 😂
Did you replace the Intake and throttle body gaskets in the repair? If so, was it dealer or aftermarket and if aftermarket, who did You get them from? Just curious.
No, I did not. I probably should have replaced the throttle body gasket, but the intake manifold gasket still looked really good for the car having over 300k miles. If I was to replace them, I would use Honda parts.
Hello, I've never worked on Hondas before and this took me about 2 hours (but I also needed to monitor the camera and make sure it was always in the right place). So, I would guess anywhere between an hour and an hour and a half for a new person (this is also assuming you don't run into issues). Thanks for watching! 🤟
Me personally, I would look up the torque specs on all those bolts especially for the manifold and use torque wrench to tighten to factory specs. And be careful using electric ratchet to retighten as most deliver approximately 55 ft lbs of torque which is more than what is called for.
That's correct. If you aren't used to tightening bolts, you should definitely use torque specs. The last thing you want is to break one off! Thanks for watching! 🤟
I'd recommend the Genuine OEM Honda part, using aftermarket is associated with crankshaft position sensor codes or random misfires that send the car in limp mode.
@@TrickShiftGarage Yes, I have. Replacing the crankshaft position sensor does nothing. Genuine starter fixed it. Something about aftermarket starters starting too slowly and sending the wrong reading/voltage to the sensors. I believe there was a TSB related to the issue
I’m experiencing this issue right now, going to install OEM starter pretty soon. I think it’s just an issue with 08-09 accords. I do not know how long till the issue will show itself with a aftermarket starter.
Very interesting. Thanks for letting us know Alex. Hopefully an OEM starter fixes that issue. My buddies car is still running fine, but if has any issue, I'll definitely put the OEM starter in there. Is there anyone else who has this issue? I would love to hear from everyone on their experience.
No problem. My starter was definitely out though (it wouldn't even start, but now it starts right up), I thought I was killing two birds with one stone regarding the rattling noise and replacing the starter. Your video saved me at least 2 hours of work time in replacing the starter. A well made video always speeds things up. @@TrickShiftGarage
Seriously man thank you very much. That helps us build the channel so we can do more maintance videos and other videos that we always wanted to do. So seriously, thank you thank you thank you.
So I followed step by step instructions, after i turned the key the VSA indicator is on and my engine won’t rev past 1500 rpm or go past 10 mph any idea what could be the cause of it?
I don't believe so. That's typically done if the flexplate is messed up and causes excessive noise. Just stick with an OEM starter and you should be fine. 🤟
please help! i am having problem starting my 2008 honda accord 2.4l . i have to crank 3 or 4 times before it starts. Coils, plugs and fuel pump have all been replaced yet same problem. Hard starting, idles rough, hesitation and lack of power. I need your help
There are so many things that could cause that. A lot of people have had issues with aftermarket starters, so you may want to try a Honda OEM unit. Also, it could be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. If none of those are the issue, then look into your purge valve. We did a video on replacing the purge valve a couple months ago. It's not too difficult. Let us know how it goes! 🤟
You may have the same issue I had. Took me about 2 hours to remove because I didn't have my breaker bar or a pipe on me. Just keep trying and take breaks when you need to. It will eventually come free.
If this is what you are referring to, it's a knock sensor. Make sure you compare online with the sensor you are talking about. Hope this helps! www.driveaccord.net/threads/broken-sensor-next-to-the-starter.558383/
Hello trick shift garage or anyone who can help me!! upon repair i’ve noticed that the back connector ( at 7:22 ) on my honda accord is separated from it’s red wire. can it be fixed/ replaced? or do i need to replace the entire starter/battery’s positive terminal cable ? i’m having a hard time looking this up
These wires can be put back into their connectors, but you definitely want to do your research on different style connectors to understand how they work. Some connectors you can push the wire back into it and it will lock into place. Other connectors require you to remove the back panel and then you carefully feed the wire into place. Personally, I would advise you find someone in your area that knows cars and either have them come out to you or tow it to them. Please let me know how it goes!
What do you do if one of the bolts to the manifold isn’t unscrewing ? , seems to be wayyyy to tight and this is the first time my engine has been taken apart
@@TrickShiftGarage Yeah this engine hasn’t developed any rust yet , so hopefully that means it isn’t prone to break . I sprayed the bolt with supertech™ Lubricant and a good amount and I let that sit then spray again after about 10 minutes . Then I let that sit for about 5 minutes then tried with an extended ratchet and it wouldn’t unscrew . So I’m going to put all the bolts back to the manifold and hopefully that’ll let some weight off that one bolt Thank you so much for this video and your help !🙏
It finally came out, but I wouldn't say it came out fine. The end of the bolt was clearly stripped. I'm thinking a shop used an air gun to put it back on years ago, which can destroy bolts like these if they aren't threaded in by hand first. But that's just speculation on my part.
Hello Kristian, I'm not 100% sure but I would imagine it's very similar. The best way to find out is to start removing parts and see if it lines up with our (or other channels) videos.
So this has been a topic of discussion since I uploaded the video. I would recommend going with an OEM starter to prevent any issues, however I will say so far my buddy (who owns the Accord) hasn't had an issue. It's been a little over 8 months I believe, so hopefully he doesn't run into an issue. But to answer your question, yes I would recommend a Honda starter just in case.
I’m thinking I might need to do this my car is dead will not start, even though I just bought a new battery last month. And I checked the battery and alternator fuses.
@@TrickShiftGarage no, nothing. It doesn’t turn over. I think it might have tried to turn over the first time it didn’t start, but now when I turn the key nothing happens, The dash lights up and everything like it’s getting power from the battery, however the battery light came on too after a while. I don’t know if it’s because I tried jumping it for too long and turning the key like 10 times, which I don’t think it could have drained it enough for the light to come on.
@@TrickShiftGarage I had a local mechanic take a look at it, he said it’s the starter since it makes a clicking noise when you turn over the key, and there are no other problems to point to something else. I’m working on it right now!
I had a very similar issue with my 95 F150. Wouldn't start, didn't make any noise. So I got under it and hit the starter a few times with a pipe. The truck started right up after that. Glad you got it figured out man! Let me know how the replacement goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage I heard that trick too, about hitting the starter and I really wish I could have done that l, if the starter wasn’t behind the manifold, because my car broke down in the Walmart parking lot. But anyways I already got everything off I’m putting in the bolts for the new starter. And yes I’ll let you know how it goes.
Have you had the crankshaft positioning sensor thrown yet? You have to replace that starter with an OEM or it will happen. It took a few months for mine to come on. Don't know why but 2008-2012 Hondas need to have the OEM starter. Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can explain. Thanks
Hello Daniel, no I have not run into that issue but will definitely monitor it now that you brought it up. Thanks for the information and thanks for watching! 🤟
I watched another similar video and I did see a comment about some errors too. I taught that maybe they had left something disconnected, didn't expect starters to have some sort of smart technology but I could be wrong. Just replaced my starter today with a Duralast so I'll keep an eye for an error too.
@@TrickShiftGarage I just purchased a used 2011 honda accord with aftermarket starter, it actually has the problem related to crankshaft position sensor issue, especially when you start with a warm engine, it will crank a longer time and cause engine light and VSC light on, I got the problem at least two times, cost me $260 to repair, and two different mechanics both told me the problem is from the starter, is should have been an OEM one. I temporarily bought a scanner with function of relearning crank position sensor, and also I bought a used OEM starter for $82, (2012. 82K miles), going to rebuilt it with carbon brush and replace as soon as I completely understand each step of your operation. Thanks!
Thanks for the information Jacky! I think I'm going to add a disclaimer to the video since you all have mentioned the aftermarket vs OEM starter issues. I appreciate the feedback and hope the install goes well for you! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Great instructional! Before my starter went out it would make a "crunch" sound on a cold start. I put in a new OEM starter with this instructional as a guide and I'm still getting the "crunch" sound on cold starts but at least the car is starting up. I'm concerned that there is a) damage to my flywheel, or b) I installed a defective starter (unlikely because it's brand new OEM). Do you have any ideas?
I definitely think you can rule out the starter since it's a new OEM starter. By crunch, would you say it's closer to a grinding noise, or rattling? That could be a VCT issue, which seems to be common among these engines with high mileage.
@@TrickShiftGarage It is more like a rattle. It only last for a few seconds after I turn the key. I will be posting a video tomorrow morning of the problem. I just confirmed from a ChrisFix video that it is the VTC actuator. You are correct TrickShift! I will run my OBDII reader and post a video tomorrow to confirm.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gz7YRtwvqVg.html Here is my prexisting noise. It can be heard between 13 & 15 seconds. Also I ran my OBII reader and no fault codes.@@TrickShiftGarage
Hello CriticalBee! I don't believe there is a service interval for starters. I usually wait until one fails, or I am around 200,000 miles before replacing mine. Thanks for watching! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage thank you. My 2011 accord is nearing 100k and things are starting to cost an arm and leg to replace so I am starting to learn more about the car so I can DIY. Appreciate your video!
@trickshiftgarage My lower bolt that holds the manifold was so rusted, that when I went to loosen it it completely rounded and is now stuck. Any suggestions?
You're gonna have to get one of those bolt extractor sets. I'm away from my computer, but first thing tomorrow I can send you the one I got from Amazon. Rounded bolts are always a pain to deal with, so these extractors are necessary.
You can do that. But if you are going to, go ahead and buy a new thermostat and coolant. The coolant you will obviously need, and if you haven't changed the thermostat, then you might as well do it now too.
That bottom bolt was such a pain! Over an hour trying to remove it. Otherwise, it wasn't too bad. But that's what happens when working on cars! Thanks for watching! 🤟
You can do it Sergio! Trust me, if I can do so can you! I honestly have no idea how much a shop would cost. But...it will be a lot cheaper if you do it. Thanks for watching! 🤟
If it wasn’t for you I’d be stuck 🙏 I finally got that one bolt out simply with a bendable socket wrench , after that everything went too smooth (first time working on a car) I can’t thank you enough 🗣 this was me when the engine finally started : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_5AwnV3UWUc.htmlsi=Bh-nYbIUF3wNnaHC
We place the same amount of ads on similar length videos. RU-vid does not give us the chance to put more than they allow. I'm not sure why this affected you so much, but it's the same with other videos of similar length. Thanks for trying to watch it I guess? I'm not quite sure what you want from us.
There shouldn't be an ad every minute. If there was, then that's an issue with RU-vid, not us. We do not have the ability to place additional ads on any video. For instance, if RU-vid allows 3 ads for a 15 minute video, we cannot place 4 or more. We can only do the 3 ads.
I'm sorry you had issues with the ads. We never want anyone to get this upset over one of our videos. However, 99.9% of the videos on RU-vid have ads now. The longer the video, the more ads. With that said, I did make a shorter version of this video. Maybe that video is more suited for you? I'm not sure. But again, we do not want anyone to be upset over something out of our control.
@@TrickShiftGarageNoticed in your video the replacement starter is CarQuest brand. Isn’t that aftermarket? The replacement I purchased to do the repair an AutoZone Duralast Gold. I have their Duralast Gold Batteries in all our cars and they been good batteries. Hoping the same for the starter.
