Segment 1 of full AC Rebuild. Details, common pitfalls & problems. 8th generation Civic (2006-2011). Thanks in advance for your likes and subscribes. They matter and are much appreciated!
Thank you. I put that radiator cover back on wrong, putting the black plastic lip on top of the plastic piece with the honda logo on it. It goes underneath the logo piece (plastic radiator grille). Until I figured out what it was, air was getting under it at highway speeds and it was making all kinds of rattling noise. Glad it wasn't anything major. :)
Am I the only one that cant watch the video because it buffers? Like I looked at other videos and there is no buffering at all but this one does for some reason, and then it goes to no connection. Sorry Man I cant watch this video, but thank you for this video, I know it would of helped alot. Either way im still liking and subcribing.
Thanks Julio. I'm not sure what to tell you other than try it on a different computer. Usually the buffering is up to RU-vid or your service provider to fix with more speed, etc. Good luck!
After having this compressor installed we left town thinking all was good but unfortunately their was big issues and we have been miserable on the 16hr drive. New compressor installed and unfortunately its not much cooler then a standard fan. I took it into a shop here out of town and they ran all tests on it finding there is no leaks so they pulled vac and refilled it to spec. Unfortunately after everything was finished they were pretty sure it was gonna work and very poor air coming out with really no change at all from before. I did pull cabin air filter which helped the push but still box fan temp type air. The old compressor worked amazing when i could get the clutch to spin and this new one is spinning perfectly whenever ac is on. The fans also kicks on but I am getting nowhere with figuring this out. Could the installer of the new compressor not added the adequate amount of oil or too much? I really dont see what else it could be and I'll be honest I didn't change the condensor. Is it really super important to change condensor also? I'm tired of throwing money at my honda
Sorry about your AC woes. I read almost everywhere that when your compressor fails, you need to also replace the condenser and the expansion valve. The condenser because the channels through it are very small and under high pressure. A failing compressor can send debris into the condenser and clog it up. It doesn't take much. To replace that you'd have to evacuate the system again. It sounds like you're committed to now. Replace the condenser/dryer as well as the expansion value and I bet you'll notice a difference. It's a good sign if they tested it and found no leaks, as well as verifying the electrical connections (your compressor engages and the clutch pulley spins). Insufficient oil is a reliability issue and not a functional issue, so I doubt that's your primary problem, but yes, the right amount of oil needs to be added to your system depending on how many components you're swapping out. (see video). It's one of those systems where all your ducks have to be in a row or you get nothing. I think it is very likely that you're getting no cold air because you didn't replace the condenser and expansion valve when you swapped out the compressor. It's a lot of work, so if you're in there, you can save yourself a lot of grief by just doing it all. Good luck!
Hi Neal, I was wondering did you use any pag oil or just refrigerant or refrigerant that has pag oil in it? How much did you use ? Which number pag oil? I’d appreciate the help, about to replace my condenser on my 08 civic lx coupe.
I cover the PAG oil specs on my 2008 Honda Civic AC Compressor video. That should have everything you need. Make sure if you add the oil yourself you aren't using the refrigerant that already has oil in it. I like having control of it, so I add them separately, which means I buy the refrigerant without the oil already in it and add the oil directly myself. Good luck!
Hey there, I’m replacing the condenser in my civic and I’m being told to replace the drier too. A bird smashed my condenser but everything else is fine. What else should I replace? Do I need any special lubricant for the new o rings? Air conditioning oil? Can’t get a straight answer Thanks
I'd replace the dryer if you replace the condenser. They often come as a single unit anyway. A little PAG oil on the o-rings wouldn't hurt anything, although I don't think it's required. If it makes the thing easier to assemble, go for it.
I accidentally releases the AC air in my garage. Bad fail. But now do I need to refill my AC condenser or no? I did an engine rebuilt and am using the old Ac condenser and radiator.
Any time you have an accidental discharge of refrigerant, you will have to seal the leaks with new seals and/or components, followed by a recharge of refrigerant.
If you've had a catastrophic fail, the pressure releases itself. If there is any coolant left in the system as indicated by your gauges, you need to take it to a mechanic who has the equipment to evacuate and recover it. It's illegal to intentionally discharge it into the atmosphere.
By changing the condenser did your air blow faster ?on my 08 civic i just replaced the compressor but im not satisfied with how the air blows its cold but its not blowing it out hard ? Any suggestions??
Changing any components in the cooling system will not affect how hard your fan blows. It circulates air through the evaporator that is pulled from the inside through the cabin filter or from ambient air under the hood. If it isn't blowing hard, you either have a worn out fan or clogged ducting. Consider also icing of the evaporator. Sometimes if you run your AC for a long time, it can ice up and block air flow. The only solution to this is to turn on the fan only without the AC compressor running. That usually melts it out in a few minutes and restores air flow from the fan.
DoctorFixMaster so i tryed blowing the fan with ac compressor off for a while by taking out the relay for a while and after that it seems to b blowing out more air for now ill wait n run it tomorrow n test it out just wana say thanks . I just bought this honda 3 days ago so ill definitely b subscribing to your channel and following your videos 👍
Thank you Jose. One more thing. You don't need to remove any relays to run the fan only. Just turn the AC on like you usually do with the fan all the way up...but just push the Max AC and/or the AC buttons on the dash until the indicator lights on the buttons turn off. That means your fan is blowing and the compressor is off. Good luck!
Bent fins and clogged air passageways between the heat exchanger fins will make it less efficient, but won't break it. A bent condenser will probably work just the same. It's function is to allow heat to escape from the coolant as it's compressed. As long as there are no leaks in it, it should do its job. You can test for leaks with your manifold gauge set, fluorescent dyed coolant, and a uv light.
VERY common leakage point on those TRS compressors. Nearly every one will eventually develop a shaft seal leak. Additionally, because they are rotary vane type compressors, pressures get crappy after a number of miles/years, and as the vanes operate centrifugally, they only cool well at increased RPM. Poor design.
My had a leak and do u think When it leak .. it will leak with all the oil out .. also I seal it so do I’ve to add oil into in or just get or just refrigerant it
If I was faced with that situation, after I knew the seal was fixed, I would add the kind of refrigerant that has PAG oil in it. That should keep the proportion correct. What bothers me though is how you sealed it. If you seal it the proper way...by replacing components, it will last much longer and is done as outlined in the videos. For the record, I don't trust any kind of sealant 'gunk' that some companies sell to plug holes from the inside. That same gunk ends up all over in the sensitive components of the system, so I wouldn't recommend that course of action with a system as complex as an AC. The only gunk I've used with any success like that was some sealant I put in the power steering reservoir of my leaky Toyota Sienna rack. That actually worked to seal the leak, but a steering rack is a pretty simple thing.
If its leaking and you keep filling it with regular coolant without oil, eventually your oil will get too low and your system will fail from a lack of oil, likely to blow your compressor. I'd add coolant with oil if that's the program you're on. The best solution is to have a mechanic recover the coolant, replace the leaky component and seals, then recharge. If you do them all at once, you'll get years of reliable service out of it. That's better for the environment too because you're fixing the leak properly.
Your manifold gauge set will tell you if your leak has zeroed out your refrigerant. I knew from my gauges it was completely empty, so I didn't bother paying for a discharge. If there is refrigerant still in there, you'll know it when you open the system. Check it with your gauges first, or it could discharge all at once and hurt someone.
I don't think so. I think the bumper and the top bolts that attach it to the car are all one piece. If you can figure out how to do it without removing the bumper, please post. I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.
A stock replacement or anything Autozone recommends should work just fine. I've tried fancy spark plugs before. I've never found them to make much of a difference, and in one instance, (my Jeep Cherokee), it reduced performance.
DoctorFixMaster ok cuz for some reason I’m still havin like a vibration on my driver side and I already did tune and change all mount but don’t know what could be the causen
That kind of vibration...rough idle and misfire, could be any number of things. Make sure you aren't getting any misfire codes on your OBD reader or check engine lights. If there are no codes, put a timing light on your spark plug wires to make sure you're getting an electric pulse out to each one. You might be able to identify a bad cable that way, or a distributor that needs replacing. That's where I'd go next with it. Also, have look at the plugs themselves. If they are new and still getting fouled with oil or gunk, it could mean a problem deeper in the engine (hopefully not). More than likely though, what you're experiencing is in the path to the plug somewhere. Good luck!
I agree with you. It doesn't interfere with the informational content of the video, but it is an annoyance. That's why I shut the damn thing off at 2:09.
You're the second person to mention that. I never thought it was loud enough to be a problem, but thanks for the input. It's more of a distraction for people than I thought and I'll be making sure it doesn't appear in other things I post from now on.
If you want to get picky, R134A refrigerant (=coolant, and it is under high pressure in the sytem...cut the line with wire cutters to test that out) is just one of many names it has: Dymel, Forane, Genetron, HFC, Suva, Norflurane, and yes, Freon. Those are just different brand names for its actual chemical name 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane.
